Hi there.

Tools needed:
1/2 breaker bar or long ratchet
15 MM Socket and ratchet. Deep 3/8 drive works best
13 MM wrench
prybar
pinch or long screwdriver
small hammer
Dremel tool with cutter or equal
Silicone sealant
Vaseline, dielectric grease, or silicone grease

I want to tell you about upgrading your alternator in your 3rd gen Cummins.

Lets start with the facts.
The standard alternator for the 03 to 05 is 136 Amp. I could not find any optional sizes in those years. Starting with the 6.7 in 07.5, it appears the standard is 160 with a optional 180 Amp. I found info indicating the 06 had an optional 160 as well. These may have been a standard with the plow prep package, or towing package.

All of these years a 180 is a bolt in. The 220 amp appears to be the same size, but I caution you. The main feed wire doesn't appear to be rated for that high an amperage. Even with it being short, the factory wiring is borderline for the 180. You mightbe able to make larger cables, I will be looking into that next. The bigger the pipe, the better the flow.

I located a 2017 180 with 6K miles on it. From the looks of the truck, the only surviving part was the alternator. I bought that one as it's so new. But you can get 180's as low as 50 dollars ++. I paid slightly less than a rebuilt. History says the originals last much longer. And I get to keep mu core this way. I'll rebuild it and put it on the shelf, JIC.

So This is what is in the 03 to 05. The onlt difference is the back. The early alts had the rectifier externally, while these are external





THE 180 IS A DIRECT BOLT IN

The only major difference is the two wire plug.

In order to make the 2 wire plug to fit, you have to strip the outer jacket off the plug to the main body. Leave the locking clip. The plug has to be rotated 90* clockwise, looking at the pulley. Once the outer jacket is removed, it will slip right on. I suggest you apply some silicone grease or maybe some vaseline to prevent corrosion. At the place where you stopped cutting off the outer jacket, run a generous bead of silicone sealant. move it around to close off the plug socket. The locking clip will help with the alignment for the pins.

Be gentle when plugging the 2 wire in. Prevent from bending the pins.

You can remove the Battery wire off the alternator is you are careful. Slide the cover back, use a 13MM wrench and loosen the nut. Take it off with your fingers. It should spin right off. Slip the battery wire into an old sock, with out holes, LOL Then remove the 2 wire plug.

Remove the belt. There are only 2 bolts holding the alternator. 15MM deep socket works great. The alternators have a sleeve that expands to clamp down on the bracket for alignment. You will have to pry with a curved pry bar or small pinch bar to get the original off the bracket. Be careful not to use the oil cooler as a pry brace. It's right there. Slide it straight sideways. Once off, you don't need that alternator anymore.

If you get a used alternator, you may want to push the bushing back into the housing for easier installation. You need a punch device (Long screw driver) that will fit through front hole. Tap the busing back in flush with the body



This way the alternator will float onto the bracket and make it easy to align the bolts. Top first, start it on the nut. You'll have to hold the nut in to start it. The nit just floats behind the bushing.
You know what's next

Prepare your plug. Dremel tool works great. Remember to lube the plug. Rotate the plug 90* clockwise, facing the pulley. Gently slip the plug on and seal. Put the belt on, test.



I noticed my batteries are charging faster now. When the grid heater is engaged, I gained a whole volt. That's significant. You can't go wrong with this upgrade.