Hard Wiring AMP Running Board System?

**BrentM** · 12-11-2017

Chris at AMP-Research said I have the diodes backwards, the controller should work with the hardwire setup. Will rewire and report back.

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**theaaronbush** · 12-11-2017

I have Bestop Powerboards and wired them direct under the fuse box. That was the only way I would get a power step. It was a very easy install and I wanted to dedicate my OBDII port strictly to my Ultra.

2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

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**Power247** · 12-11-2017

Originally Posted by theaaronbush

I have Bestop Powerboards and wired them direct under the fuse box. That was the only way I would get a power step. It was a very easy install and I wanted to dedicate my OBDII port strictly to my Ultra.

2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

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**theaaronbush** · 12-11-2017

Originally Posted by Power247

I wasn’t even thinking about that! Yeah the ‘13+ would be a little more painful with all that “under the dash” business!

2012 Ram 2500, 4x4, 3.73, 5” lift, 35" tires, Pure Performance TB, 5100s, 4" FloPro TBE, EGR valve/cooler/throttle delete, S&B CAI, GDP heater delete, GDP S2 air horn, Bestop Powerboards, RaceME Ultra Warp Tuning by DRD

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**BrentM** · 12-12-2017

I was thinking this was a 12v+ signal that triggered the controller. If that was the case I would have the diode correct, but this must be a ground signal so the diode is backwards. I couldn't wrap my head around this, until I read up some more on Diodes. I wish AMP Research would be more forthcoming with the information from the start. And yes not only is the access to the harness difficult, the harness are short so getting to the wires to strip and solder them is challenging also. Here is the white box with the black and white connectors, the blue one is below the white, you can barely see it

It took the biggest part of my Saturday to get it apart, wired and back together only to have it not work. Now the diodes are buried up behind the amp so what I was hoping would be an hour project to turn the diodes around will be more involved and include removing the amp again. For those who are contemplating removal of the amp to do this a 7mm combo wrench would be a great tool to use. I don't have this, so I ended up making a 1/4" x 1/4" adapter to get my 1/4" wrench mated up to my 7mm socket, glad I saved it.

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**BrentM** · 12-17-2017

The steps are working again, diodes were backwards. This can be done.

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**Power247** · 12-17-2017

Originally Posted by BrentM

The steps are working again, diodes were backwards. This can be done.

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**Polaraco** · 12-18-2017

Originally Posted by BrentM

I was thinking this was a 12v+ signal that triggered the controller. If that was the case I would have the diode correct, but this must be a ground signal so the diode is backwards. I couldn't wrap my head around this, until I read up some more on Diodes. I wish AMP Research would be more forthcoming with the information from the start. And yes not only is the access to the harness difficult, the harness are short so getting to the wires to strip and solder them is challenging also. Here is the white box with the black and white connectors, the blue one is below the white, you can barely see it

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...209_130835.jpg

It took the biggest part of my Saturday to get it apart, wired and back together only to have it not work. Now the diodes are buried up behind the amp so what I was hoping would be an hour project to turn the diodes around will be more involved and include removing the amp again. For those who are contemplating removal of the amp to do this a 7mm combo wrench would be a great tool to use. I don't have this, so I ended up making a 1/4" x 1/4" adapter to get my 1/4" wrench mated up to my 7mm socket, glad I saved it.

Not to sound like a wise guy, did they tell you to put in a diode? I don't see the need for it.

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**BrentM** · 12-18-2017

Originally Posted by Polaraco

Not to sound like a wise guy, did they tell you to put in a diode? I don't see the need for it.

Yes, they said diodes are needed and I can see why. There are 4 trigger wires, one for each door but the controler for the steps only has two wires. The two driver side wires connect together into one wire to the controller and the two passenger side wires connect to the other. The diodes prevent one door from grounding out the other on the same side. It must be pretty sensitive because I wired the steps back to the OBD port and with the wiring still in place the steps would not work. The wiring and diodes (backwards) were all still in place just not connected to anything and just that made it not operate and AMP-Research knew it when I asked.

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**Polaraco** · 12-18-2017

Originally Posted by BrentM

Yes, they said diodes are needed and I can see why. There are 4 trigger wires, one for each door but the controler for the steps only has two wires. The two driver side wires connect together into one wire to the controller and the two passenger side wires connect to the other. The diodes prevent one door from grounding out the other on the same side. It must be pretty sensitive because I wired the steps back to the OBD port and with the wiring still in place the steps would not work. The wiring and diodes (backwards) were all still in place just not connected to anything and just that made it not operate and AMP-Research knew it when I asked.

OK I thought they were using the light circuit to activate the steps. But I guess they wanted one side at a time. I am unfamiliar with them so I just learned something. Thanks for that

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