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Hoping to get some help here folks. I deleted the EGR cooler on my 2016 Ram 2500 this weekend and am having a heck of a time seeing how to burp the cooling system to ensure there is no trapped air. Any thoughts on how I go about this are welcomed.
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IGOTACUMMINS thanked for this post
I never actively bleed one. I fill the radiator and degas bottle to the proper levels and drive. Once the thermostat has cycled a few times at operating temp I bring the truck back and let it cool off. I then open the radiator cap to check level. Then I add coolant if needed to both the radiator and degas bottle. Usually after that all is good.Originally Posted by BrightWhiteCummins
Ray
Double R Diesel, LLC
www.doublerdiesel.com
info@doublerdiesel.com
The Cummins Whisperer!John 3:16, Romans 10:9-10...Tuning for the Heart and Soul.
Snow Dodge, BrightWhiteCummins, IGOTACUMMINS, AnOldBiker, Peter Champion, bigredmaynard, ViperCummins, Yamahamod liked this post
I must just be blind I have not seen a radiator cap on my truck just the reservoir on the back passenger side of the engine. Also I'm unsure of what the degas bottle is that you speak of.
On a side note getting that EGR cooler of was a pain in the neck. Those back two bolts royally suck.
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Jaxonsram liked this post
I know for sure on my 2013 all it has is the reservoir. I done like ray mentioned. Filled it, run it a while, top it off. I keep an eye on it but I never had to refill since.
2019 Ram 2500. 8” FTS Lift. 38x15.50 Fury MT’s on 26x14 XF Offroad wheels.
2013 Ram 2500 Big Horn 4x4/Raceme Ultra with DRD WARP tunes/EGR, Throttle Valve, DPF Delete, 4'' FloPro/5'' Rough Country Lift Kit with 37's on 22" Fuel Flow
Well that's the route I was planning on going. I was surprised to find that I have to use a special coolant though. Unless of course it's just another money making hoax that RAM has out there. I know on my 2012 I was running ZEREX G-05 (HOAT) but this one requires (OAT) never heard of it before and what I found online talks about Mopar being the only thing available with exception of the dex-cool for GM. Confused yet
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My understanding is that with the 13 and newer trucks Chrysler switched to the OAT coolant. And yes DO NOT mix the old HOAT coolant with OAT. And yes my understanding is the new Dexcool for GM is the same OAT coolant Chrysler now uses.Well that's the route I was planning on going. I was surprised to find that I have to use a special coolant though. Unless of course it's just another money making hoax that RAM has out there. I know on my 2012 I was running ZEREX G-05 (HOAT) but this one requires (OAT) never heard of it before and what I found online talks about Mopar being the only thing available with exception of the dex-cool for GM. Confused yet
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Ray
Double R Diesel, LLC
www.doublerdiesel.com
info@doublerdiesel.com
The Cummins Whisperer!
SyN thanked for this post
Once again Ray has the answers thanks Ray
2012 Cummins Ram 6.7L MM3 tuner full 5" Flo Pro TBE Exhaust LWBCC 4x4 Mag Hytec Double Deep Transmission Pan , Mag Hytec Rear Diff Cover
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When I did mine last weekend, the service manual gives a procedure for refilling the coolant. I drained about 1 gallon and only a small amount drained out of the EGR cooler.
Here is the process from the 2017 service manual... without all the warnings about how bad coolant is for you if you drink it, how you should make sure your hoses are connected, etc, etc.....
07 - Cooling / Standard Procedure
FILLING – 6.7L Diesel
1. Close the radiator drain plug.
2. Using Funnel 8195A , fill the cooling system with coolant mixture (Refer to 07 - Cooling/Engine/COOLANT/Description) .
3. Add coolant to the overflow bottle until the level reaches the top of the fill neck. Then, allow the coolant level in the overflow bottle to settle for 90 seconds. Check level again and add coolant if necessary for the level to reach the top of the filler neck.
4. Install overflow bottle cap. Start engine and idle for 2 minutes. Shut off engine and ensure the coolant level is at the top of the overflow bottle filler neck. If coolant is added re-install the cap.
5. Start the engine and with the transmission in park and/or neutral, operate the engine at 2000 RPM. Monitor the coolant temperature on the EVIC. Once the temperature has reached 200° F, continue to operate the engine at 2000 RPM for 10 minutes, then shut the engine off.
6. After the engine has cooled check the coolant level. If coolant level is below the 'full Cold' marker, add coolant.
Thanks for the info.
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SyN liked this post
After all the confusion from the site. I just want to clarify where the drain plug on the duel radiator for the 2013 Ram Cummins 6.7 L diesel is by the driverside headlight. You have to remove the grill and pull back the rubber flap on the driver side next to the headlight on the side of the radiator is the drain plug for the system. After you drain the system and tighten the drain plug back up. From there you can use your air vacuum pump to purge the air from the cooling system through the coolant reservoir up near the passenger firewall. The bottom front of the reservoir filler neck there is an air relief/ over flow port that will need to be plugged so you can pull a vacuum in the system. This was the case in my 2013 Ram with the dual radiator setup. A mechanic had replaced the y-pipe above the radiator, but did not pump the system back down and it caused no/ to low heat in the cab. I hope this help someone with similar year and cooling setup. You can not burp this system and get warm air to your heater core. So if you need to replace water pump, y-pipe, radiator,etc. you can top the system off, but you will need to drain and vacuum pump the system down if you want heat in the cabin come cold weather.
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