A couple notes on this thread:
Most of this info is copy/pasted and not my opinions, but rather that of many people summarized after reading sometimes hundreds of pages on a subject. I did, however, make up some of the analogies and simplified examples that I used to explain things like deleting to my wife. For example "the DPF acts like a self-cleaning oven." It started as a thread to save articles, threads, parts, ideas and grew from there. Also, I usually try to take a little time off after gathering/reading all day, then come back and edit with a fresh brain
So please be patient with my proofing. This is always getting updates, and sometimes I run out of time to edit, then I add something new and forget to edit the last update from a few days before. Also, my Tapatalk app seems to be changing the formatting and symbols when I edit.
In order to not detract from the goal - Please PM me your changes, better examples, proofing, and anything else you think I should edit. I highly encourage anyone to post information that could be used for new sections especially links to threads, mod ideas, and more. I'll add a section and update the Table of Contents. Maybe it will become a good sticky someday
Please see section 1 for who, why, and what this thread is geared towards.
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Page 1
Table of Contents
The sections are numbered
Page 1/post 1
1.) Summary of Project
2.) Buying a Cummins - what you want, what to look for, recommendations, personal, and linked discussions
3.) Deleting, with and without tuning, To delete or not to delete
4.) Deleting thread - Why people do it, Pros and Cons and more
5.) EGR, throttle valve, and return-to-stock corrosion protection connector cover kits
6.) Diesel diagram for basic understanding
7.) Oil Analysis with no deletes
8.) Sims, basics, DIY for a couple bucks
9.) Exhaust specifics for delete and more
10.) Crank Case Filter delete (to protect your turbo)
Notes: Attached Excel 2007 "program" to compare pricing for different levels of upgrades
11.) What happens inside the cab after deleting, Codes (including an entire code list)
12.) Code readers and clearing codes,
13.) Bluetooth and wifi readers for tablets, phones, & computers - spend a couple dollars more for Bluetooth
14.) Tuner comparison chart and member's tuner knowledge basea.) EFILive videos, tuners, auto cal aka space versus the V2, links
b.) RaceMe Ultra and MM3
c.) H&S
d.) Smarty Jr Videos, shared files, links
e.) Others (I didn't add much after finding the tuners above)
15.) Monitors and gauges
16.) Tires that are bigger, ok for stock lift, ok for gas mileage
17.) Fuel filter system to avoid replacing the $80 fuel filter every 15k miles
18.) What are Studs, why you need them, and how much they are
19.) Stereo stuff - links, installation, cameras, routing, electric, steering controls, mic
20.) All about Oil and changes
21.) Replacement filter numbers & cross reference info
22.) How to - EGR valve and cooler cleaning & video
23.) Small upgrades, mods, and easy fixesa.) The notorious Manual 4x4 transfer case shift lever rod/linkage loose/missing - upgrade/fix
b.) Upper glove box conversion
c.) $61 plug and play remote starter module - works with OEM fobs without a start button (lock 3x)
d.) Overhead Console installs
e.) Aux switches using OEM AUX button panel
f.) Death wobble fixes
g.) Heated seats
h.)Add a Ford fold away bed extender (it has no emblems)
i.) 110v outlet w inverter upgrade
j.) Rear LED lights without a hole in your bumper
k.) grid heater bolt failure of death
25.) Video playlist - Top 10 mods - basic info about mods for ideas
26.) Cold air intake & adding just the rib scoop for only $99a.) S&B - Videos, Install, results, etc
b.)aFe - Videos, Install, results, etc
c.)Banks - Videos, Install, results, etc
27.) HID lights PROJECTOR/wiring/etc, This WON'T blast people = legal style
28.) On Board Air ideas, mods, and examples.
29.) Tips and tricks to making a post on the forum
30.) A valuable thread about second gens for cool ideas
31.) All about differential lockers
32.) Roof rack - encase you need more storage room.
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Section 1Summary of Project/Thread
You can skip this if you want to get straight to the info this just explains the goal
What this thread is about:
I see a lot of the same questions throughout threads from people who are new to Diesel. They are the same questions I had/have. Rather than read hundreds of pages of threads like I did, I am summarizing them as I go. Then I have a place to go back to when I want to upgrade something or need a link to a part, and also to help other newbies in the process. I will continue to update as I go, it will not always be edited especially when I post stuff from my cell to edit later. Maybe it will become a good sticky some day.
Why is this good for you:
So far as of week 2, I have read 70+pages on tuners, 50+ pages on DPF deleting, countless pages on tires, and probably a solid week of reading all day in the past two weeks; I work 12 hr shifts and get 4 days off a week. To keep this thread size down I tried not to add things that failed - like the dozen things that failed when trying to delete the 2012 EGR function or device without a tuner.
So one of the first things you see in a lot of posts is to delete this, or delete that..............hu? Did he just say what I thought he said 
??? So let's start there. UPDATE 
You have to buy a Cummins first so things have changed and we'll start there
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Section 2
UPDATE
Buying a Cummins
The difference between a 2500 and 3500 is an extra leaf in the leaf springs. Airbags or wedges to use the overload spring can help get you closer to a 3500. The next step would be a dually for weight/towing issues.
The 6.7-liter 4th generation categories are 2010-2012 and 2013+
See what gears, packages, and options came on the truck you are looking at. As of 2018 these links weren't working, but just encase try them or google Ram VIN build sheet lookup
Vin# lookup link: https://dodge.custhelp.com/app/dodge...cm0yTTZfdG0%3D
another link:https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...20Contact%20Usand another: http://You can also try www.dodge.com and click on the "For Owners" area. At that point go to the "About my Vehicle" area and fill in the questions asked about your vehicle. This will provide you with any updates and information regarding recalls and TSB's associated with the vehicle.
Pricing and options -after owning an ST here is my opinion and my best advice I can give anyone who wants to save money, or isn't afraid of a little elbow grease - why you want an ST (but not necessarily a base ST model)
There seem to be hundreds of different models because of all the different packages. It cost me $1000 for a leather install. So get an ST if you don't need a sunroof, wood trim, power adjust floor pedals, heated/cooled seats, power seats (harnesses are there for future seat upgrades), no rear slider window, AC/heat dials vs a digital screen set to exact temp number, manual 4x4 vs push button (note: manual gives you a nice floor consolewith drink holders- that many people Upgrade their shifter down to, just for drink holders), and a few other electrical things like puddle lights on your mirrors. The ST with a $1000 Katzkin leather kit can get you most of what you want and look more modern than the wood trim that comes with models that have leather from the factory. I learned all of this because a friend had an ST on his lot and I spent a lot of time researching Models. It had chrome bumpers/grill and more which threw me off. I thought ST was plastic bumpers, no power windows, no heated mirrors, and other basic stuff. The VIN lookup confirmed it was an ST with Cold and Appearance packages which gave me electric mirrors/windows, chrome, and it had manual 4x4 along w other options, and they 2500s have remote start hardware which you can read how to use for $60.
The ST model will set the pricing for the truck in Nada or KBB. Owners/Dealers don't know about the appearance, cold, etc packages much, and NADA and KBB don't really offer all of them as an option - maybe power windows. So this is your area for savings. Just upgrade to the truck to what you want. I had leather added to the cost of the loan and most dealer will do this for about a $1000.
Few easy upgrades for the ST
Putting Nav in an ST:
You can add a Nav system for a fraction of the Ram unit if you like DIY upgrading. I added the App Radio 3 to my truck for phone mirroring with an app called "AR Unchained reloaded" and I can use google maps or a few other offline nav apps when I'm out of cell tower service. I got a camera kit that came with a drill bit and even the tailgate handle has a outline on the back of it for where to drill (it must be the mold plug they insert for non-camera handles. Then there is no need to update your nav with new maps every year at a very big cost to you. For a sub you can get a plug and play kicker hideaway that fits under the drivers seat. It has the added benefit of keeping your rear seat storage, some bass without pissing off your neighbors, and it's enough that my wife asks me to turn it down when she is in the truck. I added the optional volume knob for the sub in a hidden spot so it all looks OEM but sounds better. The stock door speakers are great for me and can get very loud, but I'm not an audiophile.
Putting leather in an ST
I paid $1000 to install a Katzkin kit, it's what the dealerships use, and my friend/dealer put them in for me. Update after 2 years: They look great, no major wear and with my higher truck I slide down off the seats everyday which has to be rough on them. If they give you a higher price then tell them you want the old seat coverings back, that way you can sell them on Ebay for $300+ because believe me they are going to sell those OEM seat covers, especially good looking ones like mine were.
If you like to work on stuff and do your own upgrades then see sections below. Most of the harnesses are there for a lot of upgrades. Getting a Cummins with leather from the factory was going to cost me minimum about $14,000 more than the ST and they all had way more miles, so save yourself 13k and add leather to an ST.
Buying a 2010 or 2011 will save you the need to buy a tuner if you want to delete the DPF and EGR system. You can read below what that is. Note: 2012+ trucks need a tuner to delete. Buying a 2010 or '11 will save you about $1000 on a tuner if you want to delete.
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Section 3
Delete Basics
Delete - Removing a mechanical device, and/or using software to delete the use of a device. You can delete/remove the muffler and/or you change the software on the ECM so that it doesn't use sensors in the exhaust or other parts to bypass functions, thus tunes on a tuner device can also be deleting.
A Tuner can be a person who makes tunes or a device that has those tunes on it, so hopefully, the term doesn't confuse you later.
Thread about Pros and Cons about deleting - http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4t...ml#post6107860
Professional article mentioning types of damage from not deleting:
http://reviewdieselparts.com/review/what-is-egr-delete/
A few more pros and cons found throughout threads:
This is info often discussed and asked about, so here are some of their points
1.)Con -How do you put it back in for emissions testing? -This requires bolting on the exhaust every year for the day you go do the emissions test.
2.) Con - If you delete the EGR hardware you will need to bolt it back on for emissions testing. Personally, I was thinking you could also bolt the EGR back down with a sheet metal plate insert to block the valve off, but make it easy to change for emissions testing later.
3.)Pro - Many members mention cleaner oil, and that fewer oil change lights come on- the oil change indicator doesn't come on every 2500 miles due to soot in your oil. Less frequent oil changes leads to less carbon footprint. Some discuss which has a higher carbon footprint, gallons of oil, toxic waste after recycling/cleaning the oil, transportation of the extra oil needed, vs no emissions equipment and visible soot? Next a few words on that, because you may be wondering a few things about soot.
The DPF is actually just filtering the soot while we drive, and also during the emissions test thus it's a delayed release of the particulate that legally cheats on the emissions test. . Once the DPF starts getting clogged it goes through a Regen and is cooked/broken down like a self-cleaning oven. This is why you will not pass an emissions test during a Regen cycle. The Co2 ends up in the skies anyway as a finer particle. Carbon is carbon you can't get rid of the molecule, it has to come out eventually, just in a smaller form. https://van.physics.illinois.edu/qa/listing.php?id=1548
Update: A few years after compiling this thread I came across this video tonight (2/22/2019) of a school bus mechanic shop manager who discusses how the DPF system works and how it's "smoke and mirrors" and makes the whole environment worse. Notice how he also discusses oil, soot still being put in the air, and they go on to discuss it's just putting the soot that would have fallen to the ground and trapping it in the DPF and creating a more concentrated form. This form of the soot either is being broken down smaller and put back in the air, oil, or some mechanic's garage when he cleans the DPF vs falling to the ground as a larger particulate. I thought it would fit well in this part of the thread vs just reading it.
Pro With no soot being recirculated via the cooler and EGR back into the intake, the air in the combustion chamber is cleaner. The truck then uses less gas, along with injector timing changes, and other things - like the DPF you don't need are removed, and less gas is needed to compensate for those issues or parts. Then you have fewer issues with soot clogging up your, sensors, turbo, and oil. Why have an air filter if you are just going to put soot back into the intake. Less carbon foot print for new parts ruined by soot recirculation. But wait that soot contains gas to be reburned and used - well it wouldn't have as much gas if the amount injected was less, timing such as post ignition event and Regens self-cleans changed, and other such factors are changed. Hu? A lot of those terms will make sense soon.
5.) Pro - If you can tune a leaner intake via turbo pulsing, injector usage, and other factors, how does waste and the real carbon footprint compare to stock in the long run - Members report up to 22mpg and as many have pointed out that almost half the gas for the same miles driven is a lot less Co2.
200k miles /22 mpg = 9,090 gallons of diesel at 2.50 a gallon = $22,727 spent on fuel
200k miles /14 mpg = 14,285 gallons of diesel at 2.50 a gallon = $35,714 spent on fuel
Thus 14,285 gal - 9090 gal = 5195 x 2.50 a gallon = 5195 gallons or $12,987 of extra fuel wasted
My opinion - The EPA has the emissions testing as an institution/industry as a way to limit Co2 and other harmful molecules/chemicals from entering the ozone, etc. The tests don't take into consideration any of the excess waste and thus the overall carbon footprint mentioned above.
I don't have DEF on my 2012 truck. I haven't read threads on DEF, from the few things I saw it changes the chemical composition of the molecules to Urea or uses Urea to change the composition to pass emissions. I will update this if someone will post an explanation and thread for further reading. Update - http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/exp...asic-training/
Read more to understand what the basics of a DPF are and how soot is recirculated
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Section 4
Delete on the cheap thread - Below is a summary of the 50 pages after 1st post:
“Delete on the cheap” does not require a tuner, some dealers will honor the warranty, It lets the motor breath for cheap. It just stops wasted gas/heat being dumped into the exhaust. If you can unplug your EGR (2010 & 2011 trucks) then you only get fresh air in your cylinder vs recycled soot.
’10-’12 6.7L Cummins “Delete on the cheap” thread with the parts list & links in the first post: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4t...ing-cheap.html
Answers to the rest of the questions I had after reading the first post:
Regen - regeration or cooking of the soot in the DPF “filter” = lots of fuel and heat/energy being wasted into the exhaust.
Post Ignition event – separate but similar to a Regen type effect - wasted fuel is used to heat the exhaust during acceleration etc.
EGTs Exhaust Gas Temperature - "few things will damage or kill a diesel engine faster than excessive exhaust gas temperatures" Banks Tech Article Banks Power | Why EGT is Important
EGR - exhaust gas re-circulation – takes exhaust soot made by a piston firing and recirculates it back into the cylinder with new gas so the soot can be broken down more before it makes it to the DPF. Basically, it's making the air dirty in the combustion chamber. See this loop in the diagram pic below
The exhaust delete options from the top down:
Cat or catalytic converter (aka the down pipe), from the turbo, towards the back down to the horizontal exhaust section under the truck That's why aftermarket systems have "turbo back" in the title. The cat can also be removed for a much louder exhaust, but it will smell more like sulfur as well. With the cat left in, the exhaust is closer to stock sound levels if you don’t want people/cops to notice you, and you won’t smell like rotten eggs Page 47 post #559 shows the muffler as mostly just a straight through pipe. People state in their experience it just removes drone sound made above 2000 RPM, thus the cat is the primary sound deadening device in the system, not the muffler.[/I]
Nox container that plays a role in the soot cooking is the first chamber in the horizontal exhaust.
DPF container/"filter" on the exhaust. Think of it as a self-cleaning oven, fed by more gas creating more heat (EGTs) from the Regen and/or Post Ignition Event. As soot travels from the cylinder to your tailpipe it gets caught in the filter inside the DPF and later it is self-cleaned once it gets clogged enough.
Muffler The third chamber furthest to the rear
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Section 5
Unplugging the EGR
so soot is not recirculated:
2010 & 2011 trucks: You won’t get a check engine light aka CEL from unplugging the EGR. You can leave it in or get the EGR delete kit and throttle valve delete kit (or take out the butterfly valve.)
2012 trucks: There is no non-tuner delete trick - people have tried and failed by removing the butterfly, removing EGR piston, removing the actuator, unplugging, making butterfly valves with holes in them for more clean air mixture, removing the actuator for butterfly valve, unplug and delete codes, disconnect the pipe coming from the exhaust that feeds the soot back to the air intake - Nothing worked and all attempts lead to derate and then limp mode, or bucking of the truck. Simply put the system is too smart/sensitive. Believe me, I have a 2012 and have read every thread on the subject spending over 12 hours reading to find answers to just that subject to avoid spending money on a tuner right away.
For '11 &'12 or tuned '12 trucks:
Sinister EGR delete kit $200: https://www.amazon.com/Sinister-Dies...sortBy=helpful
or
Evergreen EGR kit $92: https://www.amazon.com/Evergreen-EGR...sortBy=helpful
Throttle valve delete: https://www.amazon.com/Sinister-Dies...sortBy=helpful
For kit's without the coolant hose and a plug follow these directions to make the coolant system work up there too.
For throttle bodies
Take the butterfly valve out and unplug the sensor. Use a heat gun to unscrew the screws, or they will eventually snap since the back side is peened so they don't unscrew, some have twisted the head off and unscrewed them from the back side that is peened if the head broke off. Mark the top and front of the butterfly in the throttle so You know which way is which later down the road.
Sinister kit: https://www.amazon.com/Sinister-Dies...07850P7REAPCY7
Red kit: https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Throttl...+throttle+body
Otherwise, add an intake horn - http://www.rollinsmokediesel.com/cat...take_horns.cfm
Connector corrosion covers:
Shabby '7.5-'09 plugs only missing one cover for '10 to '12 trucks (the throttle one) - http://www.8lugtruckgear.com/Cummins...-Set-p539.html
Connectors to unplug
EGR (drivers side)
Cooler (Passenger side)
Throttle valve (drivers side below EGR, may want to do it from under the truck)
Crossover tube sensor drivers side in front of EGR)
Exhaust connectors
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Section 6
Diagram:
Notice the EGR cooler and EGR valve, then how the exhaust is rerouted from the right side of the cylinder up and back to the left side of the cylinder if the EGR valve is open. Now put an oven to the left of the muffler, then pour gas/heat out of the cylinder into the exhaust down to the oven. The oven then self-cleans like a home oven using very high heat when it gets clogged up.
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Section 7
Pre-delete oil analysis while using the stock system:
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/20...ml#post7576537 Stock burns more fuel and you have to change the oil twice as often with emission equipment, but you get a cleaner tailpipe. My opinion: It seems oil vs smoke would be the clincher in that fight of which has a larger carbon footprint. I saw a documentary on Netflix that said methane from livestock is actually the largest polluter of greenhouse gasses, thus our trucks don’t make a dent compared to animals. Now don't get me wrong here....Before you slay me, I’m not vegetarian at all, and in fact, I did a meat with low carb veggie diet only, for about a year and lost 60 lbs; but I digress.
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Section 8Sims and sensors:
Sims: (100ohm not 300) can be plugged into the delete pipe to fool the ECM(computer) into thinking the DPF /“oven” is hot enough and doesn’t need more gas to Regen/”self-clean” thus fuel is saved.
Bungs – Threaded female ports on the exhaust for the 02 sensors.
Plugs – fill the other bung ports not used
Thread - DIY sims for a couple bucks make sure you make 100-ohm ones: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6-...udget-how.html
$69 sims: Shibby Engineering 2010EGT100 100 Ohm EGT Sims or call SDP
Sims just plug in. Dielectric grease in these connectors will help with recalls of corrosion at this location with the real sensors. They have a 2 pin electrical connectors.
Sim Basics thread if you want to learn more: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6-...im-basics.html
Note: With a tuner, the new software in the ECM won’t need the sims.
2 x O2 sensors one is located above the cat, reached behind the turbo, another will go in the horizontal delete pipe below. Move the old sensors to the new exhaust. They have a 6 pin plug electrical connector, that goes into the 18mmx1.5 bung threads
Add a little dielectric grease in the connectors for this know corrosion failure spot
Not really a sensor - but the pressure tubes going to the transmission get taken off and no caps are needed on the transmission. These tell the ECU that the DPF is getting clogged up and it’s time to Regenerate. That's because as the DPF clogs air/exhaust pressure builds up because it can't go through the clogged filter.
Pics of sensors, trans tubes locations, Post #336: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4t...-cheap-28.html
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section 9Exhuast specifics for delete and more
Now that you know all the pieces of the puzzle Here are parts, and DIY
No you can’t just add sims to the stock exhaust because the DPF/oven will get clogged up without being cleaned/Regenerated
•You can take out the DPF & NOX guts but then you have to pay a lot to return to stock when you sell the truck
Stainless mufflers are made from Stainless steel grade 419 which will have surface rust, but not all the way through. Use this in high salt environments
Hanger the metal rod that comes off the side of the exhaust tubes that hold it up.
Flopro835 removes the cat (down pipe), Nox, and DPF (horizontal pipe): Rollin Smoke Diesel. 2007.5-2012 Flo Pro 6.7 DPF Delete/Downpipe Kit (click for price)
Just the horizontal delete pipe no cat delete: Rollin Smoke Diesel. 2007.5-2012 Flo Pro 6.7 Off-Road Pipe (click for the price) Call RSD to verify there is a bung port otherwise just go get a $20 53” piece of pipe from a muffler store and have them weld on a bung in five minutes if you don’t have a welder.
Removes Nox and DPF only and keeps Cat thus making it quieter than with a downpipe delete.
Delete Pipe Notes:
A delete pipe is a 4" normal exhaust pipe that takes the place of the Cat down the pipe, and/or DPF/NOX horizontal pipe, and/or the muffler.
The DPF/NOX delete pipe is 4" diameter and 53 inches long it's about $20 at a muffler shop, but you need to tap ports or weld bung ports (unless you get a tuner) and add a hanger. Note: You can get a $80 welder at harbor freight and watch youtube to learn how to weld or use muffler clamps.
If you cut in the middle between the three bolt flange located at the bottom of the Cat and the Nox, some guys have just used a exhaust clamp or welded the 53" pipe to the stub. A muffler shop can also weld on the flange and hanger in about 20 to 30 minutes.
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Section 10Crank Case Filter delete
4 feet of 3/4 heater hose and a package of bypass caps from Autozone, or do the elbow and filter option in thread 2.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4th-gen-performance-parts-discussion/484230-CCV-delete-how-pics.html
or
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/07...er-delete.html
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Now on to the stuff in the cab (see next thread/page)
Notes:
I made this Excel 2007 file to compare pricing for different levels of upgrades for my wife. No pricing for packages is included yet. Here are the google docs link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0e...ew?usp=sharing
End Page 1 (to help keep my place when editing everything)
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