The 2003 and early 2004 Diesel Rams have a unique fuel sump. There is not one, but 2 filters on the module. The first is the screen on the bottom of the module. In the earlier 98 to 2002, it was just a screen. The 03/04 has a second filter inside the canister which is not serviceable. The dealer wants $270.00 for a refurbished canister. There are replacements on the internet in that same range in that price range. This design was apparently a design flaw as Dodge was retrofitting in tank pumps a year later.

If you are suffering low fuel flow from the tank, chances are, the in tank filter is clogged. Pushing compressed air back through the line is only a band aid, but will buy you some time. This thread will give you a way of repairing the problem for around 20 dollars and a few hours of work.

In this case, I did not have any extra help I could call on to help lift off the bed. Taking the tank down had it's share of disadvantages as well. I opted to do it the redneck style and open an access in the bed. Well at least it wasn't butchered. My hole was 10" X 12"

This option is for stock and lightly modified stock trucks. If you are using a FASS 150, you want to put in a 1/2" draw tube or a sump. I am installing a 3/8" draw straw. at WOT, the pressure is maintained with my FASS 95.

I installed a 3/8 steel fuel line in the tank as a draw straw.

1- 24" piece of 3/8 fuel line
1- 3/8 straight pipe by compression fitting
1- 3/8 90* pipe by compression fitting
1- 3/8 brass coupler
1- 3/8 Brass hose barb
1- 3/8 X 1/2 Brass Bushing
1- 1/2" SAE washer (The Thinner the better)

Suitable sealant. Black RTV will work
1/2" drill bit
9/16, 5/8, open end wrench
3/4 Deep socket and ratchet




The bottom of the fuel line was cut about a 15* angle. It will allow better fuel flow.




Wash the top of the tank with some cleaner and water. Let dry or blow dry the top pf the tank
Remove the tank module. Remove the fuel lines and electrical connection. To release the fuel lines, squeeze the tabs together and pull on the fuel line.
The locking collar threads on. I used a long large screw driver and a small hammer and tapped the ring. Remove the retainer ring. Lift the module gently and manipulate it out gently. The gauge float faces the front of the truck.

There a raised circle towards the rear center of the truck. This is a pretty thick spot and out of the way.




The fitting will not let the tube pass through it so you need to drill out the fitting. A 25/64 drill is perfect. YOU MUST DRILL IT STRAIGHT THROUGH. Prepare the end of the tube. Put the bushing on the pipe end and be sure the tube will pass through with little difficulty.




Get a cap from a spay can to catch the plastic chips. Drill a 1/2" hole through the center of the disc. Hold the cap under the hole as you drill. Pick any chips away that stick with your fingers. Be steady with the drill and try not to elongate the hole. Apply some sealant around the hole and put the washer on the straight fitting. The fitting with thread into the hole. This is good as it will help hold the fitting in place. Reach in the tank and start the bushing on the inside. Hold the top side with the 9/16" wrench. Using a 3/4" socket and ratchet, gently tighten the bushing against the inside liner of the tank.

Use a turkey basting ball, suck any debris from the bottom of the tank. Remember to squeeze the ball before you go to the bottom.






Put the Ferrell and lock nut on the tube. Insert the tube into the fitting to the bottom of the tank. Thread the lock nut on and snug finger tight. Mark your tube at the nut. Lift the tube 3/16 to a 1/4 inch from the bottom of the tank. This is to prevent the tube from chafing on the bottom of the tank with bouncing and vibrations. Holding the fitting hex with the 9/16 wrench and tighten the locking nut. The tube is now set. Measure about 1 1/2" and mark the tube. Loosen the locking nut and remove the tube. Assemble the 90* compression fitting with the coupler and barb.

Re-install the fuel module. Make sure the fittings a facing towards the left side of the truck. This is to be sure the float is free. Connect your hoses and fittings.



Remember to prime your pump before you start. Check your fuel gauge.


My Special thanks to Gene Brown at www.FASSride.com for his assistance in the diagnosis.

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