Rough Idle - Loping Then Died?

[Scrat0351]

Hey guys, I have a 2018 RAM 3500 (Aisin) DRW with 150k miles.

It is DRD tuned with a 5" turbo back exhaust; the FASS lift pump changed filters 3k miles ago.

Everything else is in stock.

I was driving the other day at a red light when it started idling rough and shaking and loping or missing.

I didn't notice any smoke but didn't get out to look.

I turned around to return home, and about 5 min later, at a red light, it died and never started back.

I had it towed to my house, and it isn't throwing any codes on the MM3.

I changed the crankcase position sensor, but it still won't start.

I have no idea where or what to check.

No codes to go off of, and it won't start.

Before this happened it has been running fine.

The only issue I've been having is the service electronic braking system coming on and off while driving.

It comes up, then goes away, and does it repeatedly while driving.

Any help or advice would be much appreciated.

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[AK Bob]

Hey guys, I have a 2018 RAM 3500 with 150k miles.

It is DRD tuned with a 5" turbo back exhaust; the FASS lift pump changed filters 3k miles ago.

Everything else is in stock.

I was driving the other day at a red light when it started idling rough and shaking and loping or missing.

I didn't notice any smoke but didn't get out to look.

I turned around to return home, and about 5 min later, at a red light, it died and never started back.

I had it towed to my house, and it isn't throwing any codes on the MM3.

I changed the crankcase position sensor, but it still won't start.

I have no idea where or what to check.

No codes to go off of, and it won't start.

Before this happened it has been running fine.

The only issue I've been having is the service electronic braking system coming on and off while driving.

It comes up, then goes away, and does it repeatedly while driving.

Any help or advice would be much appreciated.

Does it crank (does the engine turn over)?

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[Scrat0351]

Yes it turns over but doesn't even act like it might start.

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[AK Bob]

If the engine cranks, select the fuel rail pressure actual and desired PIDs and post back the pressures while cranking.

You need over 4,000 psi actual to start and idle.

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[Scrat0351]

I looked at desired and actual, and they were over 4k.

It fluctuated between 4300 and 4800 mostly.

Fuel filters were changed about three months ago with the oil.

They have a little over 3k miles on them.

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[AK Bob]

I looked at desired and actual, and they were over 4k.

It fluctuated between 4300 and 4800 mostly.

Fuel filters were changed about three months ago with the oil.

They have a little over 3k miles on them.

So far, fuel pressure doesn’t seem to be the issue.

You may have a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor.

Try monitoring your RPM PID while cranking; it should show between 150 and 200 RPM while cranking.

See the attached information with no start symptoms and testing strategies.

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[Scrat0351]

So far, fuel pressure doesn't seem to be the issue.

You may have a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor.

Try monitoring your RPM PID while cranking; it should show between 150 and 200 RPM while cranking.

See the attached information with no start symptoms and testing strategies.

Thanks for the information.

I have been at work the last few days, so I haven't been able to try anything until today.

Rail pressure is around 4800 with a max at 6k.

RPMs are right around 175.

I did change the crankshaft position sensor, but nothing changed.

It has been in the low 70s and upper 60s here, but when I crank it, it keeps going into diesel preheat.

I don't think it used to do that unless it was below 50's or 40's.

I also removed fuel filters and emptied them.

There doesn't appear to be any water, but the water filter is pretty heavy, so I ordered some new ones.

I kept the same filters until new ones came in and primed it.

The pump seems to be running longer than usual before cranking.

I will start going down the list you sent (much appreciated) and keep you updated.

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[Scrat0351]

So far, fuel pressure doesn’t seem to be the issue.

You may have a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor.

Try monitoring your RPM PID while cranking; it should show between 150 and 200 RPM while cranking.

See the attached information with no start symptoms and testing strategies.

I got the new fuel filters in, and no change.

I bought a scanner tool, which it returned with these codes.

U010E: Lost communication with reductant control module

P2228: Barometric pressure circuit low

P1193: Inlet air temperature sensor high

U010C: Lost communication with turbocharger control module

P0102: Mass airflow sensor 'A' circuit low

Would any of this cause the engine not to run?

My grid heater is still kicking on, and it's 80 degrees outside.

My turbo actuator went out a while back, and I unplugged it, so that's probably why the turbo code is coming up.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

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[AK Bob]

I got the new fuel filters in, and no change.

I bought a scanner tool, which it returned with these codes.

U010E: Lost communication with reductant control module

P2228: Barometric pressure circuit low

P1193: Inlet air temperature sensor high

U010C: Lost communication with turbocharger control module

P0102: Mass airflow sensor 'A' circuit low

Would any of this cause the engine not to run?

My grid heater is still kicking on, and it's 80 degrees outside.

My turbo actuator went out a while back, and I unplugged it, so that's probably why the turbo code is coming up.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

The U010E code is standard for a truck on a diet, and the U010C makes sense with the turbo actuator disconnected.

I have attached the troubleshooting information for the remaining trouble codes below.

They all have the 5V reference voltage in common; I suspect one of the sensors is pulling down the 5V reference to the ground.

The truck will not start without the 5V reference.

I would begin by checking to see if the 5V is present at the inlet air temperature sensor by leaving it connected and back probing.

If no 5V is present, then you will need to unplug the sensor and check again to see if the 5V comes back.

You will need to repeat this procedure with the MAP sensor and possibly on other sensors that use the 5V reference until you find which one is pulling it down.

It will most likely be a bad sensor, but it could also be a grounded 5V wire in the harness, so thoroughly inspect all your wiring, especially where there is heat and vibration, for any signs of damage.

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[AK Bob]

I got the new fuel filters in, and no change.

I bought a scanner tool, which it returned with these codes.

U010E: Lost communication with reductant control module

P2228: Barometric pressure circuit low

P1193: Inlet air temperature sensor high

U010C: Lost communication with turbocharger control module

P0102: Mass airflow sensor 'A' circuit low

Would any of this cause the engine not to run?

My grid heater is still kicking on, and it's 80 degrees outside.

My turbo actuator went out a while back, and I unplugged it, so that's probably why the turbo code is coming up.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

Any progress over the weekend?

Were you able to check the 5V reference?

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