Coolant In Oil After Rebuild?

[rusty_shibox]

I had my 03 5.9L Cummins apart after dropping a valve on cylinder 6.

I replaced the valves and number 6 piston with all new parts.

Replaced all valve springs with BeeHives and hardened retainers.

Replaced Headgasket with MLS STD Victor Reinz.

I installed ARP studs.

After getting everything back together, the engine is now making milky oil.

Also, hazing out the exhaust.

Any thoughts on what I may have messed up?

The truck ran great before the rebuild.

Thanks, everyone.

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[AK Bob]

I had my 03 5.9L Cummins apart after dropping a valve on cylinder 6.

I replaced the valves and number 6 piston with all new parts.

Replaced all valve springs with BeeHives and hardened retainers.

Replaced Headgasket with MLS STD Victor Reinz.

I installed ARP studs.

After getting everything back together, the engine is now making milky oil.

Also, hazing out the exhaust.

Any thoughts on what I may have messed up?

The truck ran great before the rebuild.

Thanks, everyone.

Did you check the head for warping and cracks?

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[rusty_shibox]

Did you check the head for warping and cracks?

I checked it for warping but have not pressure-checked it for cracks.

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[Corkey]

Did you check the head for warping and cracks?

Instantly, what came to my head as well?

With a fresh rebuild and gaskets, you should have clean oil.

Was the torque on all the studs correct?

I would pressure-check the #6 cylinder to see if the snap rings are seated right.

I hate to say it, but the #6 piston could be the culprit again, or the head has cracks, and it's bleeding through under pressure.

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[rusty_shibox]

Instantly, what came to my head as well?

With a fresh rebuild and gaskets, you should have clean oil.

Was the torque on all the studs correct?

I would pressure-check the #6 cylinder to see if the snap rings are seated right.

I hate to say it, but the #6 piston could be the culprit again, or the head has cracks, and it's bleeding through under pressure.

How would incorrectly seated piston rings push coolant into the oil?

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[Corkey]

How would incorrectly seated piston rings push coolant into the oil?

@rusty_shibox

By checking the compression on cylinder #6, will tell you whether or not you have an issue specifically in that cylinder.

Broken or unseated snap rings result from lack of sealing "lower pressure on the combustion check on #6.

Whether it's broken rings, broken or torn gasket, or cracked head\warped if not resurfaced, there are many possibilities.

As you mentioned, it ran fine before the sucked-up valve and replacing #6 piston and rings.

That's where my head goes with the back story of how it ran compared to the current.

My only assumption would be cracks under pressure, or the torque sequence may have been off.

I was throwing out suggestions to try and troubleshoot.

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[rusty_shibox]

@rusty_shibox

By checking the compression on cylinder #6 , will tell you whether or not you have an issue specifically in that cylinder.

Broken or unseated snap rings result from lack of sealing "lower pressure on the combustion check on #6 .

Whether it's broken rings, broken or torn gasket, or cracked head\warped if not resurfaced, there are many possibilities.

As you mentioned, it ran fine before the sucked-up valve and replacing #6 piston and rings.

That's where my head goes with the back story of how it ran compared to the current.

My only assumption would be cracks under pressure, or the torque sequence may have been off.

I was throwing out suggestions to try and troubleshoot.

I totally get what you're saying.

I appreciate the response.

I wasn't bad-mouthing you.

I was just wondering how that could be.

Going back through my notes, I see that Headstud 7&8 was not torqued to the right ftlb.

Only 40ftlbs.

Do you think that could cause my issue?

Torque Sequence.jpg

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[Crshanta]

If you have the head off, why not check it for cracks and flatness at a local machine shop?

It should not cost much or take long and would eliminate two variables, or as you suggested, a couple of studs were not fully torqued.

I could put it back together and triple-check head studs.

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[rusty_shibox]

If you have the head off, why not check it for cracks and flatness at a local machine shop?

It should not cost much or take long and would eliminate two variables, or as you suggested, a couple of studs were not fully torqued.

I could put it back together and triple-check head studs.

You say put it back together and retest?

With Propper torque spec?

It takes me about 4 hours, which seems valid.

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[Corkey]

That's probably where the head gasket leak is, near those two cylinders.

I don't know if it could have torn or gotten damaged.

For peace of mind and assurance, remove the head, get it checked out, and I Would buy another head gasket to be safe.

From the gasket already being compressed, I wouldn't take the chance of reusing it just for the same scenario to happen; that's just me, though.

To your question, though, I strongly think that is why the oil is contaminated; it's bleeding through 7 & 8 with only #40 of torque.

You could try retorquing those after draining the oil and dropping the pan to clean it out %100, but on the off chance it damaged the head gasket, you might be doing it twice ??.

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