Clicking From Front End?

[jgruberman]

I did some searching before posting this because I have a video that I recorded and wanted to include and see if it would help easier identify and confirm.

I'm hearing a clicking sound from the front end that is somewhat consistent with speed; it almost sounds like a playing card stuck in bicycle spokes.

I read that it was either a CV axle or a U-joint, So I went underneath the truck and tried to put some movement on the u-joint.

Listen to this and let me know if this is expected or if this is telling me that the u-joint needs replacement.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/qoqzmbKVZeE4ujjZ6

If a clicking sound is inconsistent with the u-joint replacement, I can try recording the actual sound.

It's pretty easily reproducible.

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[watersupply189]

More than likely, that’s your issue.

I would also check the wheel bearing hubs.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[AK Bob]

Agree, it sounds like a bad U joint to me, also.

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[jgruberman]

The wheel bearing on that particular side, I very recently replaced with one of those "fleet hubs."

Like within 10-15k miles, maybe.

Is there a chance it would have failed that quickly with that symptom and noise described, or will it be pointing at the u-joint?

If you had to make a guess based on that new information about the wheel hub replacement

I recently moved, and most of my tools, including a heavy-duty jack, it my old house.

So I can't quickly jack the truck up and try to shift the tire around to check the hub.

I will still do this at some point; I just wanted to try and have a more educated guess going into it.

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[watersupply189]

The wheel bearing on that particular side, I very recently replaced with one of those "fleet hubs."

Like within 10-15k miles, maybe.

Is there a chance it would have failed that quickly with that symptom and noise described, or will it be pointing at the u-joint?

If you had to make a guess based on that new information about the wheel hub replacement

I recently moved, and most of my tools, including a heavy-duty jack, it my old house.

So I can't quickly jack the truck up and try to shift the tire around to check the hub.

I will still do this at some point; I just wanted to try and have a more educated guess going into it.

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Based on how you described a “clicking” sound, I would suspect the U-joints.

How many miles do you have on them?


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[jgruberman]

Based on how you described a “clicking” sound, I would suspect the U-joints.

How many miles do you have on them?

2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

Unfortunately, I don't recall.

I feel like I've replaced them before, but I don't keep records, and my memory is horrible, and it might have been for a different RAM truck.

Is there any method of diagnosis that's relatively straightforward that I can perhaps do after jacking the truck up or something similar?

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[AK Bob]

Unfortunately, I don't recall.

I feel like I've replaced them before, but I don't keep records, and my memory is horrible, and it might have been for a different RAM truck.

Is there any method of diagnosis that's relatively straightforward that I can perhaps do after jacking the truck up or something similar?

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With the front wheels off the ground and the jack stands under the front axle, rotate the wheels and listen for the clicking sound, then grab both yokes on the side the sound is coming from and check for any play or looseness in the U joint.

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[jgruberman]

With the front wheels off the ground and the jack stands under the front axle, rotate the wheels and listen for the clicking sound, then grab both yokes on the side the sound is coming from and check for any play or looseness in the U joint.

Okay, I can give that a shot. Is an aftermarket part acceptable for this?

I've learned that some things need to be Mopar, and I can get away with an OEM-equivalent for others.

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[jgruberman]

Also, is this one of those parts that would be just as effective with an aftermarket brand such as Moog or something, or is this something that should absolutely be a Mopar equivalent?

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[Corkey]

I had bad u joints on the rear drive line.

I went with SKF for routine maintenance when I did my fluid changes.

I'm already down there, so I'll check if it needs a few pumps of grease or not.

I think it's a personal preference for the most part.

Someone that puts a lot of wear and tear on a rig may opt for a greaseable joint because they have a higher probability of breaking one sooner than someone that does the typical daily driving.

I know Moog and SKF have a reputation in those particular parts.

If you have a good number of miles and it just went out, I would stick to OEM and get another round of miles again.

I recall Toyota tech mentioning being mindful of how you install the u-joint, so the zerk fitting is accessible to purge when the time comes.

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