When It Rains It Pours Clutch Slippage G56

[rsl0311usmc]

So I finally believe I found out if my clutch was a decent one or not. The other day going home here in the mountains I got on her to pass someone uphill on the 60 hp tune and the rpm's went up with the boost and the truck didn't move. I then feathered back out and into it again feeling it slip and finally catch. Then came the dreaded burnt rubber smell in the cab. I had no choice but to get past this person on the hill so the clutch got smoked bad LOL. This made me do the purchase I have always wanted but wasn't financially ready to do yet. I went and purchased a South Bend 3250-GK dual disk so I don't have to worry anymore if responsible. I am honestly excited to have this clutch in and relearn driving my truck. If any of you have this clutch please chime in and tell me how you like it. I was already warned to be ready to back trailers up in 4 low which I honestly wish I would've thought about already with what I have in there now. Thanks everyone

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[watersupply189]

So I finally believe I found out if my clutch was a decent one or not. The other day going home here in the mountains I got on her to pass someone uphill on the 60 hp tune and the rpm's went up with the boost and the truck didn't move. I then feathered back out and into it again feeling it slip and finally catch. Then came the dreaded burnt rubber smell in the cab. I had no choice but to get past this person on the hill so the clutch got smoked bad LOL. This made me do the purchase I have always wanted but wasn't financially ready to do yet. I went and purchased a South Bend 3250-GK dual disk so I don't have to worry anymore if responsible. I am honestly excited to have this clutch in and relearn driving my truck. If any of you have this clutch please chime in and tell me how you like it. I was already warned to be ready to back trailers up in 4 low which I honestly wish I would've thought about already with what I have in there now. Thanks everyone

Keep us posted how that clutch does. Mine is getting to that point also.
Torn between a valair or a SB.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[rsl0311usmc]

Keep us posted how that clutch does. Mine is getting to that point also.
Torn between a valair or a SB.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

Will do man my thoughts exactly. I couldn't decide between vilair and south bend. The guy who is going to install mine said he has this south bend clutch and said it's aggressive so be prepared. I said not a problem so am I LOL. I may help them do the install if they let me but they are a friend of a friends shop so he said maybe. I really wanted to do it myself but all I got is a gravel driveway and this trans is heavy. I called a few shops and all I heard was south bend and valair. They are all said it's going to be noisy with gear rollover and I said so is my 5 inch strait pipe but hey it's a diesel and a man's truck. I just want it to last is all I care about.

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

So I finally believe I found out if my clutch was a decent one or not. The other day going home here in the mountains I got on her to pass someone uphill on the 60 hp tune and the rpm's went up with the boost and the truck didn't move. I then feathered back out and into it again feeling it slip and finally catch. Then came the dreaded burnt rubber smell in the cab. I had no choice but to get past this person on the hill so the clutch got smoked bad LOL. This made me do the purchase I have always wanted but wasn't financially ready to do yet. I went and purchased a South Bend 3250-GK dual disk so I don't have to worry anymore if responsible. I am honestly excited to have this clutch in and relearn driving my truck. If any of you have this clutch please chime in and tell me how you like it. I was already warned to be ready to back trailers up in 4 low which I honestly wish I would've thought about already with what I have in there now. Thanks everyone

Welcome aboard. I went through the same thing, bought truck new, never hard on clutch, paused after letting clutch out before powering up again. Many people say 50K, I said BS, I'm gentle on a clutch, should get 100K, well, about 51K, no load, accelerating modestly, turbo spools up, engine flares up and I'm in 3rd gear, so wasn't surprised, just surprised it was 50K.

OK, I too, did the South Bend. I got the G56-OK-HD, good for 425HP and 900 ft lbs. I am stock, do have the MADS smarty tuner and added economy tune before new clutch and it had so much more snort, went back to stock for fear of killing clutch earlier.

Now that my new clutch is in, I can probably upload it, but haven't yet.

OK, a heads up, doing it yourself? Stock it came with Mopar ATF+4, use what Mercedes uses in it, I swapped mine over before the clutch upgrade to 75W90 GL4 full synthetic transmission oil (not GL5 gear oil), do the same for your T case too. In fact, I would recommend overfilling it a bit. Its going to be noisy with the absence of the dual mass flywheel which is garbage. Gear oil and a bit overfilled will help. Best place is buy it by the gallon jugs for about $70 from ama-zon. Tranny will hold 6 qts, get a 14mm allen wrench for fill and drain plugs. T case be different. Take console out, remove shift boot that sc rews to floor, but DO NOT remove orange shift boot from shift tower, you have no reason and if you take it off, you will cuss getting it back on and maybe tear it. A small pinhole, it will leak oil, unbolt shifter, then take shifter cover off. You can take it out with cover on, but may have to take it off for install.

The dual mass flywheel comes out like an automatic, trap door on side of engine, pass side, remove the 6 or 8 bolts, then it will drop straight down. When you put in the new flywheel, it will be like any conventional clutch except the dual disc. I wanted to avoid dual disc for the noise.

The wires attached to the cross member, make sure they are well secured, if they blow around in the wind, the wires will break and no 4WD etc later.

Oil to use:



And use these wire ties if yours self destruct. These are super nice to have, nice securing any wiring on anything your doing. Almost identical to factory wire ties.

These are the shizzle

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

Oh, on another note, anyone with a manual transmission on their diesels, I recommend holding the clutch in when you shut it off. The compression strokes on these engine are violent as the engine rolls to a stop through them, it beats the gears up and adds a bunch of unneeded wear and the cushion springs on the clutch disc too (or dual mass flywheel). Just get in the habit of depressing clutch in when you shut it off. I've done it since day one, there is a dozen times I didn't, IE wanted to shut if off without climbing into it, but otherwise, no exceptions.

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[rsl0311usmc]

Oh, on another note, anyone with a manual transmission on their diesels, I recommend holding the clutch in when you shut it off. The compression strokes on these engine are violent as the engine rolls to a stop through them, it beats the gears up and adds a bunch of unneeded wear and the cushion springs on the clutch disc too (or dual mass flywheel). Just get in the habit of depressing clutch in when you shut it off. I've done it since day one, there is a dozen times I didn't, IE wanted to shut if off without climbing into it, but otherwise, no exceptions.

Thanks. I am currently running amsoil atf and it's been fine so far but I heard redline is awesome in these things so I may definitely consider it. I also already replaced the shift boot with the doorman one and I feel your pain it kinda sucks to get that thing on. I also have been for months now shutting this beast off with the clutch peddle down because like you said before if not it rattles like crazy.

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[rsl0311usmc]

Welcome aboard. I went through the same thing, bought truck new, never hard on clutch, paused after letting clutch out before powering up again. Many people say 50K, I said BS, I'm gentle on a clutch, should get 100K, well, about 51K, no load, accelerating modestly, turbo spools up, engine flares up and I'm in 3rd gear, so wasn't surprised, just surprised it was 50K.

OK, I too, did the South Bend. I got the G56-OK-HD, good for 425HP and 900 ft lbs. I am stock, do have the MADS smarty tuner and added economy tune before new clutch and it had so much more snort, went back to stock for fear of killing clutch earlier.

Now that my new clutch is in, I can probably upload it, but haven't yet.

OK, a heads up, doing it yourself? Stock it came with Mopar ATF+4, use what Mercedes uses in it, I swapped mine over before the clutch upgrade to 75W90 GL4 full synthetic transmission oil (not GL5 gear oil), do the same for your T case too. In fact, I would recommend overfilling it a bit. Its going to be noisy with the absence of the dual mass flywheel which is garbage. Gear oil and a bit overfilled will help. Best place is buy it by the gallon jugs for about $70 from ama-zon. Tranny will hold 6 qts, get a 14mm allen wrench for fill and drain plugs. T case be different. Take console out, remove shift boot that sc rews to floor, but DO NOT remove orange shift boot from shift tower, you have no reason and if you take it off, you will cuss getting it back on and maybe tear it. A small pinhole, it will leak oil, unbolt shifter, then take shifter cover off. You can take it out with cover on, but may have to take it off for install.

The dual mass flywheel comes out like an automatic, trap door on side of engine, pass side, remove the 6 or 8 bolts, then it will drop straight down. When you put in the new flywheel, it will be like any conventional clutch except the dual disc. I wanted to avoid dual disc for the noise.

The wires attached to the cross member, make sure they are well secured, if they blow around in the wind, the wires will break and no 4WD etc later.

Oil to use:
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/W/...AC_SL1000_.jpg


And use these wire ties if yours self destruct. These are super nice to have, nice securing any wiring on anything your doing. Almost identical to factory wire ties.

These are the shizzle
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/W/...AC_SL1500_.jpg

Also I didnt know they made those zip ties. Do you know how many times I could've used those? Where did ou get them amazon, etc.

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[Loud 03]

Just put a clutch in my nephews truck and did the Valair and it is quiet. I have a SB and you can hear the floater plate. The clutch pedal is easier than my SB and supposedly has a higher clamp load than the SB


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

Thanks. I am currently running amsoil atf and it's been fine so far but I heard redline is awesome in these things so I may definitely consider it. I also already replaced the shift boot with the doorman one and I feel your pain it kinda sucks to get that thing on. I also have been for months now shutting this beast off with the clutch peddle down because like you said before if not it rattles like crazy.

Good on the clutch, remember, noise = wear.

OK, you wont want that light fluid ,Amzoil or Mopar ATF+4 in your trans after clutch upgrade. Mercedes Benz, this G56 is made by them and they use the full synthetic GL4 in 75W90 in it, so I did the same. I also converted T case incase a seal failed, didnt want cross contamination of different fluids, but I doubt it would hurt anything. Made it way quieter. Have the new oil ready for your clutch installers, just give it to them and tell them to install when they are doing the clutch install. Just make sure its GL4 and not GL5 hypoid gear oil.

You will get lots of extra rattle because of the extra floating metal plate between the dual disc, not sure of pedal effort will be higher, usually the same, maybe even softer as the double friction surface may not need the extra clamping force. Extra pedal effort has drawbacks, like more pressure pushing crank forward (I'm sure we have great crankshaft thrust bearings with adequate oil pressure) and of course, the load on the pedal hanger brackets under the dash.

My kit as will yours, came with a new master and slave, already sealed/fill/bled with fluid. But the reservoir will now be remotely mounted up by cowl. My cowl flange is slightly tilted, to reservoir is also tilted, going to make a bracket to straighten it out.

The new master slave probably has larger bore diameters to keep the pedal pressure from rising.

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

Also I didnt know they made those zip ties. Do you know how many times I could've used those? Where did ou get them amazon, etc.

These are the ones I got, slick set up. Great for any wiring jobs on out trucks.

Shizzle Zip Ties with Barbed Anchors

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