Well, this weekend me and my truck got really close. It certainly left a mark on me with little cuts, frustration, possible cracked rib, and took a flashlight to the lip! But, I was able to get all of this done:

-EGR deleted (removed all components). I was using a kit that I think was designed around the 2012 and previous trucks. While it physically fit, I had to drill a hole and bend the line for the exhaust sensor to properly mount to it. I also could not use the factory crankcase vent tube due to interference with the supplied hose for the rear water port. I wound up running a 3/4" heater hose direct to the nipple on the turbo inlet elbow. I have a crankcase delete filter, but I am opting to continue with the factory setup since I saw no signs of it sucking oil or blow-by into the turbo. If it works, dont fix it. The turbo looked and felt great!

-Installed EGT sensor (in rear delete plate). Easy to do. I am waiting for a bulkhead fitting to run the wires into the cab and then finish hooking it up to the MM3.

-Deleted the grid heater with an ITC billet plate. I found this to be easy in conjunction with the head studs since all of the valve cover and rocker spacers were off. I left the 6th injector line on and didnt touch it. I had plenty of movement to get the original heater out and the new plate in without bending the line. Be sure to torque the tube nuts again. I used two wrenches and still found that all the nuts I took lines off of were slightly loose upon retorquing them. This also required an extension of the intake temp sensor as it places the sensor in the same location as the 2012 and down trucks. I was able to carefully remove the harness clips and cut the tape then pull the sensor out about 6 inches. I just looped it back over the top of the foam piece (yes I put it back on). Then I put the factory wire clips back on.

-Installed a GDP airhorn. The nub was a tight fit and I had to walk it down with the bolts. I made sure the gasket stayed aligned properly. I also forgot to transfer the sensor and the truck was very upset and didnt want to start without it. Since I lost the dipstick mount and had to use the provided billet version, it took the studs from the back corner by the crankcase hose and relocated them to the front driver-side corner.

-Installed a GDP grid heater relocation. This was easy. I have the bolt on version and the power wire hooked right up. The power stud faces down and the logo should be seen on the front. No issues with that after the fact as the heater has cycled a few times and no lights!

-Removed the DEF tank, lines, and crossmember. This was relatively easy. Took me a few minutes to figure out how to get the lines out. I could not figure out an easy way to remove the portion that attaches to the gas fill area so it is still hanging about.

-Installed ARP 625 head studs. This was the worst part of the weekend. I am tall and wound up doing a lot of the torqueing from outside the fenders which ultimately wound up in a cracked rib when the ladder slipped from under my feet while torqueing a rear stud (left side ribs, meet fender). Speaking of studs, lesson learned is the stupid instructions didn't say anything about where to put the 6 longer studs. I figured it out at the end when I had six long studs and all of the bolts coming out were still short. I figured it out they went along side of the valve cover (outside and not the front two as they will interfere with the aluminum spacer). I took everything to 155 ftlbs.

-Set rocker gap. I set intake rockers to .010 and exhaust rockers to .020. I used a 15mm socket and ratchet to spin the motor over on the crank hub bolts. The engine is actually quieter now!

-I installed a REVMAX billet valve body and new solenoid pack at the recommendation of REVMAX. My truck was working fine even at 153,000 miles, but the cost of fluids and my time made it a worthy investment. I put a steel filter screw in there and fresh filters and gasket (no silicone on the aluminum pan). I found getting the pan off was quite a challenge as the installer I paid to do it used some serious stuff. It took a hammer and chisel. The pan and pan rail were fine, but I made a mess. The drain plug refused to come out and I twisted my Snap-On allen socket and another allen wrench! I never did get it out so that is a problem for next time. The valve body was pretty easy to drop. The only tedious part was removing and installing the many screws for the solenoid pack. Be sure you use a good "in lbs" torque wrench on these! After more than 40k miles from the last service (half of that towing a trailer of some type and being tuned), my transmission fluid looked new, there was very little grey matter on the plug magnet, none in the bottom of the pan, and inside of the transmission was super clean. I feel good about the health of the transmission heading into the mod.

-I installed a REVMAX transmission thermostat bypass block. This was easy and pretty straight forward. I was a little disappointed I had to install the o-rings into the block. They require a deft hand and a small pick to get them seated.

-Because my downpipe was too close to my transmission line fittings coming out of the transmission, both adapter fittings coming out of the transmission had paid the price and were leaking. I went ahead and put two new ones in it and then used some lava wrap and stainless zip-ties to give them some shielding. The leak happened during my last trek pulling a trailer through the rocky mountains on 12.

-I also had my tires balanced since I was at the base auto hobby shop and it has not been done in the last 35k miles.

-While the tires were off, I flushed the entire brake system with DOT 4 fluid. The last time I was in the twisties with towing my old travel trailer (38' and about 10,500), the brake pedal got soft at elevation once the brakes were hot. The exhaust brake is good on longer descents, but has less of a roll in the constant switchbacks that we encountered taking it to Big Bear, CA last year. No real change other than service frequency and a higher boiling point to stand up to the heat generated by my EBC orange stuff pads.

The Dr came through big and got me the new tune quickly so I was able to update the firmware and the tune last night. I DID NOT do a transmission quick learn with a scanner. After some side-bar conversation with him, he said that a 100 miles of driving my to-work route would be sufficient and that I should be good to pull out trailer from SoCal to Sequioa on Saturday!

Of note, my work drive is just over 10 miles one way but it incorporates multiple grades, turns, 25, 35, 45, and 50 mph zones, several stop lights, and light traffic. The Dr said this would be sufficient to do the learn and I did not need to worry about going to the auto hobby shop on Wednesday and pay $40 to use their scanner to do a quick relearn.

All in all, it took me two and half days of solid work to get everything done. I feel that was probably making pretty good time for all of that work adn I dropped probably 175 lbs of stuff from my truck which is a big deal to me and the big trailer I am pulling. If anyone has any questions, or wants me to break some of these out into separate threads, let me know.