You are supposed to keep a 5 psi minimum, but I never once have personally for hundreds of thousands of miles.

I set mine at zero with the truck unloaded.

They sort of turn into a bump stop from there.

You can get away with no alignment when factory specs, but if someone had it alined for a taller kit, that could cause issues.

If someone got the cross Alignment whacked, it would definitely cause a bad rebound feeling.

You can look at the 4 Indexing bolts from the control arms to the axle.

The tops should match from side to side, as should the bottoms; if they are way out, it's definitely a good place to start.

Also, going back to valve, many guys think they need level 3 or 4 valving because of the bumps they plan to hit and order it that way. I can tell you from the experience very few people can actually utilize stage 3 valving as it's just freaking hard to do In a $50k plus truck.

This makes small bump compliance horrible. Hopefully, you can figure out how it was ordered for you measured the whole shim stack.

Personally, boogie bumps up front, and stage 1 valving upfront have produced a far better setup than stage 2.

And drop more air out of your rear tires; if you're concerned with this, do the chalk test.

Before this whole setup, I used to be that guy that 10 PSI doesn't make a difference; after running this stuff for a couple of years, I now realize 2 PSI can make a huge difference.

Look at your evac you'll notice that at low 30s, tire pressure still gets up to almost 40 once they warm up.

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