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@cwendel OK.
Yeah time is the biggest thing for me right now.
I'll have to set aside a whole day to take it off, clean and reinstall.
I ordered the MX+ and it should be here in a couple days.
Once that comes in I'll download AlphaOBD then take the actuator off to check that arm out.
Is it hard to navigate that AlphaOBD in order to calibrate the actuator upon reinstalling?
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Not hard at all.
You have to make sure to go in under the engine ecu to access it.
Once you find it under the options, the program will walk you through what to do.
If you don't want to do a rebuild right now, just drop the down pipe from the turbo and spray out the exhaust housing with intake cleaner then brake clean.
Go in through the fender opening after removing the inner fender.
Make sure to drain the engine with the heat set on full.
Then, when reinstalling the actuator, make sure to either use new gaskets or have good sealer to make sure there are no leaks and the coolant does not leak into the actuator.
2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
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Jack Miller thanked for this post
Ok that's great.
It shows that it'll be here Saturday by 8pm so maybe I can do it Sunday maybe.
When you say drain the engine with the heat set at full I'm assuming you mean drain the coolant with the truck running and heat on full?
I've heard about draining the coolant but not with the truck running and heat on.
Does that ensure that all the coolant is drained away from the turbo and actuator?
Thank you for all of this help!
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You do not want to drain the coolant with the engine running. Just switch the ignition to the run position and make sure to set the heater control to full on hot. The idea is to avoid trapping coolant in the heater core. Especially important when refilling to avoid trapping air in the heater coil.Originally Posted by Jack Miller
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.
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2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
AK
Ohh, I understand what yall mean now. I didn't think I would run the truck and drain it haha. See I need clarification on some things
Sorry Jake, been off dealing with a head cold.
Yeah, make sure the heat is set to full before you drain and before you refill. I didn't do that once and I had NO heat.
Also, when you go to refill, make sure to fill the expansion tank and then squeeze the upper radiator hose. This helps to burp your cooling system and keep air from getting trapped. And don't worry about if you don't add the same amount of coolant you drained. You will need to top off the coolant over the next 2-3 days as the system goes through the heat cycles.
The first time I did the actuator it took about 6 hours. The bottom rear bolt had siezed to the housing and I had to drill the head off. Now it is a 4hr job including fully cleaning up, putting away tools and having a beer.
2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
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Jack Miller thanked for this post
CWendel it's no problem bud. I hate you have a cold and hope you feel better soon.
Right now I'm not working due to an injury, I had a fight with a table saw and lost. So unfortunately my wife has my truck at the moment, I know it's not good to be driving it but it's the only thing we can do, because her 2014 Ram 2500 threw a check engine light with code P00AF, which by what I looked up is a problem with the turbo actuator as well, and it's in the shop because she has an extended warranty.
So I'm getting all the knowledge I can before I put my truck down for repair. I haven't had a lot go wrong with my truck, knock on wood, so I've never done anything this major of a repair. Anything I've done was small like an ac compressor or battery cable. So I'm getting great advice and learning from yall all that I can.
Now there is an actual "gasket" in between the actuator and turbo that I either need to replace or RTV the actuator back on?
And you said it's about a 4hr job to take the actuator off, inspect, clean everything, have a beer and reinstall?
When I take the actuator off in going to drop the down pipe and spray I take cleaner in the exhaust side to clean out and also I'm going to take the EGR valve, bypass valve and crossover pipe off and clean all of that as well to try and take care of that P2426 code.
I'm hoping that I can prolong me having to get a new turbo as much as I can until I can get the money to do that.
That sucks for the injury. Get better soon.
There are two gaskets there for the actuator.
They sell a gasket kit that also includes new bolts on Amazon.
If you have time, order it.
It will make sure you have no leaks.
Also be sure to rinse the turbo good with brakekleen.
It make sure there is no oily residue left to attract soot.
As to the egr, just clean the valve on the air horn. The tube is smooth so there is no edge to have a buildup on.
The bypass valve is another minor issue, just be careful and save the metal gasket for reuse.
Oh, and wear gloves when cleaning the soot from the egr.
It will stain everything, concrete, asphalt, you.
Yeah, my days of minor repairs stopped after the dealer replaced my short block because a tech scratched the rear main seal surface and then tried to get away with sleeving it.
My turbo never coded up but I was losing boost and down on power.
The system also screwed up and was not Regening enough.
I think their recalls effed the DPF as I was always watching but nothing would happen.
So, it now sits waiting to be used again as I drive and test the truck for other issues and keep retightening those damn boost clamps.
2013 2500 6.7 cummins crew cab. white and stock as can be
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CWendel Thank you for that bud.
I'm going to try and get full movement back in my hand.
I lost my index if my right hand and cut the tendons in the thumb and middle finger.
So now after they have healed the scar tissue is not letting me bend those 2 fingers, so they are kinda useful but not that much.
Ok I'm going to look up that gasket kit and order one. I finally got my OBDlink in Sunday.
I tried buying the Alfaobd but Google Play is having purchase problems, so I'll keep trying.
Thank you for the advice on the soot staining everything.
I just picked up a lot of brake cleaner today.
I'm really hoping when I get time to break it down that the turbo is ok but we'll see haha
Hey guys. I've been looking around online for things and come across something that I've never seen or heard of.
I wanted to run it by yall and see if anyone has ever seen/heard or dealt with this.
It's called a CHRA.
Its like a turbo without the actuator and outside housings.
I'll attach a photo of what I've seen.
Screenshot_20200801-000639_Chrome.jpg
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