Opinion on this set up?

[Natebrody11]

I've posted a few times and I've gathered some great information. I do appreciate all of it.

I drive a 2011 6.7 DRW deleted and tuned with an H&S mini maxx. The truck has 120k miles and other than that stock that I can tell.

I've been directed towards the 64.5/73/.91 HTT s300 direct replacement turbo that fits up and basically uses all of the same components.

Has anyone ever run or heard bad reviews on this?

I'm not looking to make extra power or go for a 2nd gen swap at the moment, just trying to get it back on the road since it hasn't moved in weeks.

This is a work truck for me and I don't want to spend a ton although that sounds bad but I also don't want to go cheap and have problems in the future.

Any input on anything would be greatly appreciated and looked into.

Thank you.

 0 Comment(s)

[Capt543]

If your plan is to stay at 380hp or so a s300 will be more than fine. They are a touch small on the housing so a 66mm may work for you . The 6.7 can spool a big turbo. I have an Aurora 5000 on my 09 which is 71 mm and it spools pretty easy

 0 Comment(s)

[Natebrody11]

If your plan is to stay at 380hp or so a s300 will be more than fine. They are a touch small on the housing so a 66mm may work for you . The 6.7 can spool a big turbo. I have an Aurora 5000 on my 09 which is 71 mm and it spools pretty easy

Thanks for the reply. At the moment I just want reliability out of this truck so I'm fine with the power I do have.

Do you have or have you heard any opinions on HTT turbos?

 0 Comment(s)

[Polaraco]

I'd rather have volume than pressure. That's what matters. Adding a few CFM at the same pressure will give it more kick and smoke less

 0 Comment(s)

[Natebrody11]

I'd rather have volume than pressure. That's what matters. Adding a few CFM at the same pressure will give it more kick and smoke less

Thanks for replying.

Could you tell me what you mean by CFM and if this set up makes sense to what you're thinking?

 0 Comment(s)

[Polaraco]

Thanks for replying.

Could you tell me what you mean by CFM and if this set up makes sense to what you're thinking?

Overall, I'm turbo ignorant. I'm an engineer. CFM means Cubic Feet per Minute. What that means is the air is compressed tighter and your forcing more air into the cylinders. While pressure increases the flow, it's how tight you can make the air molecules.

I'm having trouble explaining this. Drugs, , , ,

 0 Comment(s)

[Natebrody11]

Overall, I'm turbo ignorant. I'm an engineer. CFM means Cubic Feet per Minute. What that means is the air is compressed tighter and your forcing more air into the cylinders. While pressure increases the flow, it's how tight you can make the air molecules.

I'm having trouble explaining this. Drugs, , , ,

Haha oh no you're good I understand what you're saying, bad on my part not looking more into CFM.

I'm new to turbos and diesels in general so I'm just gathering bits a pieces. Is this where the sizes like 64.5, 67 and 71mm come into play?

That being said, would you agree that the size turbo I'm looking at is adequate based on that?

 0 Comment(s)

[Polaraco]

Haha oh no you're good I understand what you're saying, bad on my part not looking more into CFM.

I'm new to turbos and diesels in general so I'm just gathering bits a pieces. Is this where the sizes like 64.5, 67 and 71mm come into play?

That being said, would you agree that the size turbo I'm looking at is adequate based on that?

I'm thinking the 71MM would be better. That may be too big. It will fill the pipe better. I don't know what you have now. I don't have enough info.

CFM is a bad term for this. You want to increase your volume. Sorta like filling the pipe more completely.

I have the 351 in my truck which was about 2 mm more than my original turbo. My setup could still use more air.

I'm afraid I can't help you on the sizing.

 0 Comment(s)

[Capt543]

If I could do my turbo swap again I would go 2nd gen manifold with a s466 or 467 turbo. Larger housing than the s300 series which is what my Aurora 71mm is based off of

 0 Comment(s)

[TexNeck]

Natebrody and Polarco are talking about the right things. The turbine 64.5, 67, 71 (mm size) etc are the blades that move the air. Think of a ceiling fan - the smaller the fan blades (64.5) the sooner they are able to turn with less effort/resistance. Although they turn easier to start once they are spinning to full potential they can only move a certain amount of air. The larger fan blades (71) are a bit more difficult to get moving and momentum but once spinning is able to move more air because it is larger.

The larger numbers (71+mm) is when you will hear about lagging or taking more time to build boost and get going. The 67mm is the best overall performance for the 6.7s from all the research I have done. It spools like stock but has larger blades to move more volume than stock giving you more top end power. 1900+rpm is when the big boost hit will come and it lights instantly. Anything less than that will be the 0-10psi range depending on throttle % and load.

Overall there are ways you can mix and match the turbine (64.5), compressor housing (68), and exhaust housing (T4 divided .91)

Turbine - blades in turbo
Compressor housing - space around the turbine (its home)
exhaust housing - shape and cut that connects to manifold. There are different shapes and sizes for these

The 64.5 will spool real quick since it is smaller than the 67 that does fine. You may want to watch EGTs depending on how hard you tow and what terrain. Still an improvement over stock.

Someone please let me know if I am off on this!! I am not an expert just what I have gathered after ALOT of reading over the years

To Capt Point- there are improvements to the housing to help increase flow. The Borg SXE turbos flow extremely well- you can get away with a smaller 64.5 and have it flow like a 67 because of how they machined inside the housing to increase the air moving.

 0 Comment(s)