RaceME Ultra Update and Upcoming RaceME Custom Tuning

[Stewbuntu]

Wow I just read this whole deal from page one. With all the knowledge going on here I don't know if I am excited to install my raceme ultra or scared sh**less. Coming from an 05 with an s-06pod G56 and aftermarket injectors with cts display to this 2012 6.7 68RFE is a whole new world. Maybe finally getting some questions off chest that I have had for 150 pages will help. I am deleting my truck for fuel economy, I didnt really pick up any solid numbers for like trucks. In some cases fuel mileage seemed to be worse for some people. Any I chasing a lost dream when it comes to fuel economy on a box tune?

Personally I am worried about the chugging, hazing and EB issues that I have seen over the pages as I didn't spend $1400 in the mind set that there is better out there..(aka custom tuning) and I'm sure that is from lack of research and simply not being firmilar with these trucks. But still it's slightly frustrating that you drop that kinda coin to just have "ok" tuning.

Again with concerns, all the hours I have read with update issues and firmware malfunctions, I am not a computer guy and frankly it has me second guessing my purchase and maybe the raceme ultra isn't for me. Maybe I'm just building it up. Who knows!

What i do really like and what has helped settle a bit of the second guessing is the support that comes with this product. Seeing ray, franz,ram it and ratlin going way out of their way to help anyone and everyone is simply amazing.

Please don't take this post the wrong way, it's not intended to be upsetting or misleading. But it may help someone in relation to how i personally feel about it from where I am going forward.

So back to some questions!
Let's say I get the 4 inch flo pro delete pipe put in, throttle valve delete in, egr delete done and get all the stuff hooked up correct. What is the best box tune configuration for fuel economy, safety and glitch free daily driving? Would it be 120 23 eco @ 185 line psi? Or is there other trans tuning I missed somewhere for the 2012 2500?

Stewbuntu, I am really looking forward to reading your sticky about install of the tuner hope it will help with my questions on actually loading the files to the sd card and all the other jib jab computer terms I'm not firmilar with.

Again please don't take this post in any sort or bashing or anger. This page is amazing and the only forum I have ever felt it's ok to express concerns as such with out getting trolled right on out the door. This is just the opinion of a guy who is looking a down a DEEP DEEP hole of the unknown. I am a quick learner and will probably look back at this and be like you idiot it was so simple but for now it is what it is.

I haven't had any issues with my 2012 truck other than wondering how the trans should shift and if it was doing everything correctly in that regard. The only issue was just updating the sd card and that seems to have been discussed and worked out enough. Have a second card when updating so you can always have the original or if there is an error reading. Format the second card and don't use the usb to micro adapter use the sd card adapters that will come w the second card. I wouldn't choose a dif system unless it was the mm3 personally. With the Ultra/mm3 you get a system monitor and more on the fly adjustments vs other systems. I'm on the fence about custom tunes, I have never heard any clear cut "this is what I do that is better than the stock tune" and I'm not really willing to spend another $600 bc people say it runs better for them, bc that statement is not an objective analysis, nor is a dyno when considering all the aspects. Plus it runs fine currently so.... I am still on a .11 update and like my computer system software will wait for a majority to try it, fix the bugs, fix some more bugs and usually a year later switch. It's why I bypassed windows 8. Plus, as far as the truck -it requires a transmission relearn each time.

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[TyPatty89]

I really appreciate all the information. I think I will just have to play with it to get where I want to be. I am a very visual learner and think getting hands on will fill in most of my questions.


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[RamIt]

Wow I just read this whole deal from page one. With all the knowledge going on here I don't know if I am excited to install my raceme ultra or scared sh**less. Coming from an 05 with an s-06pod G56 and aftermarket injectors with cts display to this 2012 6.7 68RFE is a whole new world. Maybe finally getting some questions off chest that I have had for 150 pages will help. I am deleting my truck for fuel economy, I didnt really pick up any solid numbers for like trucks. In some cases fuel mileage seemed to be worse for some people. Any I chasing a lost dream when it comes to fuel economy on a box tune?

Personally I am worried about the chugging, hazing and EB issues that I have seen over the pages as I didn't spend $1400 in the mind set that there is better out there..(aka custom tuning) and I'm sure that is from lack of research and simply not being firmilar with these trucks. But still it's slightly frustrating that you drop that kinda coin to just have "ok" tuning.

Again with concerns, all the hours I have read with update issues and firmware malfunctions, I am not a computer guy and frankly it has me second guessing my purchase and maybe the raceme ultra isn't for me. Maybe I'm just building it up. Who knows!

What i do really like and what has helped settle a bit of the second guessing is the support that comes with this product. Seeing ray, franz,ram it and ratlin going way out of their way to help anyone and everyone is simply amazing.

Please don't take this post the wrong way, it's not intended to be upsetting or misleading. But it may help someone in relation to how i personally feel about it from where I am going forward.

So back to some questions!
Let's say I get the 4 inch flo pro delete pipe put in, throttle valve delete in, egr delete done and get all the stuff hooked up correct. What is the best box tune configuration for fuel economy, safety and glitch free daily driving? Would it be 120 23 eco @ 185 line psi? Or is there other trans tuning I missed somewhere for the 2012 2500?

Stewbuntu, I am really looking forward to reading your sticky about install of the tuner hope it will help with my questions on actually loading the files to the sd card and all the other jib jab computer terms I'm not firmilar with.

Again please don't take this post in any sort or bashing or anger. This page is amazing and the only forum I have ever felt it's ok to express concerns as such with out getting trolled right on out the door. This is just the opinion of a guy who is looking a down a DEEP DEEP hole of the unknown. I am a quick learner and will probably look back at this and be like you idiot it was so simple but for now it is what it is.

So as Ratlin said, thank you for reading this entire thread and we all understand it is overwhelming! That said, I'll touch on some of your points.

-Your truck being a 2012 is going to suffer from poor economy due to emissions components, but mostly from a always live front driveshaft. 13+ trucks are noticeably better on fuel, more so when deleted/tuned. You're not chasing a "lost dream" with the box tunes, but just think of them like a universal part; just because it will work, doesn't necessarily mean it's the best fit for the vehicle.

-The chugging issue is due to the CP3 overloading the fuel rail when quickly coming out of a snap throttle scenario; this primarily happens in city driving. It is most prevalent on the lower HP tunes; I have been running a 120HP tune since the 2nd or 3rd week of owning my Ultra (with and without WARP tuning) and haven't had that issue come back once. Hazing is kind of a moot point as it is more or less unavoidable, WARP tuning definitely clears it up to an almost non-noticeable level though. All of that said, I understand your frustration is buying a tuner, only to have to spend even more on custom tuning; however, if you look at this from an EFILive comparison, it's really no different...at least you get tunes with the Ultra, instead of just a blank Autocal though. But, I'll refer back to my "universal part" analogy in regards to box tunes vs WARP.

-As Ratlin mentioned, there were software issues over the last 18 months, most of which have been addressed and resolved though the various firmware updates. Don't sweat not being a computer guy, the process is really straight forward. @Double R Diesel has made videos detailing the process, I have made videos detailing the process; and worst case scenario, if you still can't get it, shoot me a message and I'll set up a remote assistance session with you and I'll walk you through the whole process while connected to your computer (so you can see exactly how it's done.) I don't charge for doing that either, just so you know.

-For a good daily driving truck with extra power and better economy, the 120, 23, 1850, economy spool would be the best for box tunes. Note: The higher HP tunes generally yield better economy, but you have to be mindful of your right foot! I want to mention that one of the biggest reasons behind why WARP is so strongly recommended, is that running the box tunes has caused overboosting scenarios in a lot of trucks. The box tunes will allow your turbo to spool to 36+ psi, which is not desirable without headstuds.

Don't sweat the small stuff man! We're here to help each other and learn together, so don't hesitate to ask any questions or reach out to any of us individually! I hope this helps.

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[Stewbuntu]

I really appreciate all the information. I think I will just have to play with it to get where I want to be. I am a very visual learner and think getting hands on will fill in most of my questions.


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I was like you and typed up each step after I checked and rechecked the procedures, it worked. So use the sticky as a step by step guide.

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[theaaronbush]

I really appreciate all the information. I think I will just have to play with it to get where I want to be. I am a very visual learner and think getting hands on will fill in most of my questions.


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I'd like to also add that in this forum, when you ask a question, you will not get a "use the search" answer! No matter how many times the topic has been discussed, this place is different and everyone steps up to help!


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[TyPatty89]

Great info guys. I'm already feeling better after going over the step by step programming instructions. It's also good knowing what settings to start with.


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[Noneck]

I'll chime in here. I have had some issues with my Raceme here and there, but nothing that outweighs all the benefits. Once you're tuned it will be an entirely different truck and you'll wonder why you waited so long! Another thing to consider....I'd imagine that thousands of Ultras and MM3s have been sold. The percentage of people with issues is probably very small. The things you read here about issues are the minority but people without issues aren't posting about how great there truck is as compared to people looking for answers. I came from a 2003 quad Cummins and quite honestly was very underwhelmed with my 2013 in regard to performance and economy...until she was tuned!

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[lggrflem]

I'll add to that Noneck, you are probably right, I have had Raceme installed since the fall of 2015 . The only problems I have had I created myself, learning curve. My truck runs excellent with just the box tune.

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[SeveredCummins14]

I bought my RaceMe Ultra back in fall of 2015... I too, was also very hesitant about the unit (being a new tuner in the market) and the issues some were having in the beginning. Not in a real rush to install, I sat back and read the RaceMe thread...many times... LOL. At that time, I think Ray was the only one who had made a couple instructional videos. I also watched/studied those like crazy... LOL. Being my first diesel and first time installing any type of tuner, his videos proved to be VERY helpful! The installation (with deletes) was a breeze and tackled it solo (I'm still pretty amazed haha). Although I'm happy with the box tunes, I look forward to having some custom tunes by Ray in the near future...

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[Captain]

Hi,
I just registered on here, after reading much of the thread. I mean, it's huge, so I read less than half, but I searched it for info I was looking for, so forgive me if I'm asking questions that have been answered.

First, about me: I have a stock 2013 2500. It's a 4x4, 4 door, long bed, with the 68RFE and tall gearing. Not sure, off the top of my head, of the exact ratio, and I'd have to go outside to look. I traded my '02 to get this, and have not been satisfied. The '02 was a manual 6 speed, but otherwise identical - even color. It had the suicide doors in the back. Last year of that body style. It was pretty well set up, but enough about that. I bought this 2013 with 20,000 miles, almost a year ago, and the cel came on before I could get home. In the first three months, the dealer had the pickup for one month, total, and over 2,000 of the 5,000 miles I put on it were from going back there for service. Unhappy much? They replaced the scr, DPF, and def injector, rebuilt the rear differential, and fixed the tpms. I never got the same codes twice. I'd take it in, drive a loaner for a week or two, get a different code, take it back again. After three months of that, I took it home and got 13,000 troublefree miles out of it, until.... the cel came on. Different codes than before, but then... the countdown. I had just scheduled to take it in for the recall work (alternator diode and the excessive nox emissions that cause failures), but my dealer is 200 miles away, and I have 170 miles until I'm limited to 5mph. I'm not an arsonist, and I'd take a loss if I sold it, so it has to be fixed. As you probably know, only the dealers can reset these from the countdown. I did find that with 189 miles remaining, I disconnected the battery for a while, and it came back up to 195 when it was reconnected. Might be useful to someone on the road. So, in driving it (and comparing to my '02, which was my dream truck), there are several issues with it, that just bug me. First is the exhaust brake. Yes, it functions as designed. The problem is that when I turn on the eb, it changes shift strategies. It works good in tow mode, with a big trailer, but if I use it in regular driving, the torque converter unlocks, engine drops to idle, and the truck coasts. With the eb off, the converter stays locked, and if I let off, I get some compression braking. In top gear, the eb slows you down to 55, then the converter unlocks, engine drops to idle, and just coasts. To shift down usually takes three or more pushes of the - button to get fifth, then it shifts down, locks up, and works like it should, if the hill is big enough. If not, it slows you down, eb cuts out, converter unlocks, etc. the other thing that bugs me, besides the obvious problems, are the mirrors. The side mirrors make things look much closer than they are. Backing up to something, it looks like you're running over it, when you're 4 feet away. Enough complaining, and on to the topic at hand.

It's great to see that there's another tuner out there that can unlock the ecm, and I'm more excited to see that it can also tune for the transmission. There's my first question. Can we tune it so the exhaust brake works? No fuel, and exhaust braking at over 1,000 rpm with throttle off, converter lockup, downshifts at, say, 1,150? Without tow mode? With tow, higher upshift/downshift shift points.

That has been my biggest complaint about the pickup, besides those madated by the EPA.

Next, mileage. You saw what I'm driving. Average driving for me is mostly highway. EVIC showed 20.5, my pen put it at 20.1. Best trip was all highway, under 55mph, hilly, sea level to 1,200 feet, with EVIC showing 28. My calculations put it at 23.98, which is everything I'd hoped it would be, +/- .02 mpg, if you know what I mean (that close to an even 24). That was on summer fuel. Right now, it's mostly around 18 on the EVIC, but gets over 20 on long highway trips. Are others doing anything similar, or do we all tune for hp, and burn the fuel to get it? I did read the posts about better mileage with hotter tunes, but in general, how has the Ultra affected your mileage? Has anyone done better than 24mpg, or close, with a similar truck?

Next question: traction control. Hate it. If I could eliminate it, I would. I never want it to interrupt my driving, and certainly not with a yellow light constantly on, on the dash, saying it's off, and another light that comes on when it rudely interrupts my driving, anyway. Not when I'm carrying momentum up a steep, icy hill, and it cuts power and hits the brakes. Can the Ultra disable tc/esc, and the "I can't drive" light? Forever!

Finally, I'm not looking for horsepower. I don't want to fix a transmission. I like the smoothness of the engine and the fuel economy. I like the torque and pulling power, and put it to good use, but I don't want to rod it out; I need to be able to drive it. That said, I have a few more questions.

Does the RaceMe unlock the ecm permanently, so other programmers can be used, as with the Bully Dog?

Can anyone recommend a tune I'd like, addressing exhaust brake, traction loss of control, and mileage/ driveability, if it does all that? Or, a box capable of those things? Including the obvious problem items that led to the 5mph countdown. I figure that's got to go.

Has anyone done a meaningful comparison between this and EFI Live?

Features, abilities, available programming?

Thanks, and sorry about the meandering and ridiculously long post, re-asking all these questions.

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