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Thread: "Service required" and "See dealer now"

  1. Top Of Page | #11
    Basic Member Malzan's Avatar

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    Re: "Service required" and "See dealer now"

    The truck has about 265.000 miles on it.
    I cleaned the MAP and MAF sensors with a special sensor cleaner. I do not know if the sensors are really clean. But would it idle for 35 minutes then without any problems?

    Yesterday I removed the FCA. It looked good, o-rings too. But it is open !!! Should not it be closed???

    Greg


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  3. Top Of Page | #12
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Re: "Service required" and "See dealer now"

    open


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

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  5. Top Of Page | #13
    Basic Member Malzan's Avatar

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    Re: "Service required" and "See dealer now"

    Are you sure that it must be open???
    I found this discription on a german side.
    It is about the FCA in a common rail system.
    It is translated into english by the google translator:

    The ball valve is pressed at rest by a spring on his seat. The spring force holds the ball to about 100 bar on its seat. To generate higher pressures, the spring force is supported by an electromagnet with clocked DC. By changing the duty cycle, the control unit can generate any desired pressure of approx. 250 bar at idle up to 1,350 bar or 1,600 bar for the 2nd generation. When the solenoid valve is de-energized, the engine will not start. A lower injection pressure leads to an extension of the injection duration and a softer combustion, which contributes to a quiet engine run at low speeds and small injection quantities. At high speeds and large injection quantities, the injection pressure must be increased because of the shorter time and to lower the particle emissions.

    Greg



  6. Top Of Page | #14
    Basic Member Malzan's Avatar

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    Re: "Service required" and "See dealer now"

    OK, it must be open...
    Today I bought and installed a new FCA. Same problem.
    Please see video:



    You can see that the rail fuel pressure dropps before the engine stalls.

    Any suggestions...?

    Greg


  7. Top Of Page | #15
    Basic Member Malzan's Avatar

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    Re: "Service required" and "See dealer now"

    No idea?

    Greg


  8. Top Of Page | #16
    Basic Member hray's Avatar

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    Re: "Service required" and "See dealer now"

    Just some ideas or suggestions for clearing service required see dealer now.

    1. Key on depress brake pedal twice then gas pedal twice within 10 seconds key off.

    2. Using the RaceMe delete DTC codes twice even if it doesn't show any

    3. Confirm latest software is loaded on RaceMe and go ahead a reload a tune.

    If I understand this correct you imported the truck and it had a DTC low rail pressure I believe. That was never addressed and you did the deletes that cleared that code? If so it maybe a hard part failure and not programming. Possible CP3? I don't know how to test that but I would before replacing it. Ray


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  10. Top Of Page | #17
    Basic Member Malzan's Avatar

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    Re: "Service required" and "See dealer now"

    Quote Originally Posted by hray View Post
    Just some ideas or suggestions for clearing service required see dealer now.

    1. Key on depress brake pedal twice then gas pedal twice within 10 seconds key off.

    2. Using the RaceMe delete DTC codes twice even if it doesn't show any

    3. Confirm latest software is loaded on RaceMe and go ahead a reload a tune.

    If I understand this correct you imported the truck and it had a DTC low rail pressure I believe. That was never addressed and you did the deletes that cleared that code? If so it maybe a hard part failure and not programming. Possible CP3? I don't know how to test that but I would before replacing it. Ray
    Thanks for your answers

    1. I did that about 10 times...
    2. I did that, too
    3. I did that two days ago


    today I cleared the counters with an "SnapOn Modis" scan tool. But after a mile the engine stalls again.

    Then I filled a Diesel system cleaner in the tank and let the engine idle and high idle for about 1 1/2 hours. At this time the engine did not stall again!
    But the max. pressure in the rail was about 900 bar (13.000psi) while drivig with WOT, it must be 1800 bar (26.000psi).
    Could it be a faulty injector?

    Greg


  11. Top Of Page | #18
    Basic Member hray's Avatar

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    Re: "Service required" and "See dealer now"

    I'm not a diesel tech by any means so hopefully someone with more knowledge than I will contribute. My understanding of the fuel system is the CP3 supplies the pressure to the rail, You have seen some good results with the cleaner so you could try some more and see if more pressure is built. Could it be a faulty injector? It's a possibility but trouble shooting this and distinguishing between if it's injectors, the CP3, or something else is beyond my experience and tool capabilities. Nor am I comfortable telling you that is your problem. I am trying to give you ideas and don't want you throwing money at parts that I'm not knowledgeable enough about. Ray


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  13. Top Of Page | #19
    Basic Member Malzan's Avatar

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    Re: "Service required" and "See dealer now"

    Hello
    Today I drove a few miles more and my problem was back.
    It looks like it's getting worse with increasing engine temperature.
    For safety, I have checked the temperature of the engine control unit. It was cold.
    At cold start I have good rail pressure. After a while it gets less and less.

    I have now ordered a fuel filter again and the pressure sensor. I will report.
    Now I have no more money ...

    Greg


  14. Top Of Page | #20
    Basic Member Malzan's Avatar

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    Re: "Service required" and "See dealer now"

    Hello everybody. I wanted to give you some feedback on my problem.

    Since I thought it was up to the CP3 pump, I removed it and disassembled it. But I could not find a mistake and built it together with new gaskets and installed it. I've also allowed myself a new pressure sensor.

    The problem was still there !!!

    So I spent a lot of time thinking about where the pressure could go. And why is it getting worse when the engine gets warm?

    The solution:

    The high-pressure connectors (13) are attached to the nut (12). These must be tightened with a torque of 50 Nm. but they were all loose! Especially on the cylinder 2.

    When the engine gets warm, it expands slightly and the connectors leak. The fuel splashes into the engine oil. The rail pressure drops rapidly. Of course, you can not see that. I unscrewed the complete rail and removed and cleaned all connectors.

    Then I reinstalled everything, tightened the nuts with exactly 50Nm and everything was fine again. The truck is running great!

    Thanks for helping,
    Greg



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