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Thread: How To Upgrade Your 3rd Gen Cummins Alternator To 180 Amp

  1. Top Of Page | #1
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    How To Upgrade Your 3rd Gen Cummins Alternator To 180 Amp

    Hi there.

    Tools needed:
    1/2 breaker bar or long ratchet
    15 MM Socket and ratchet. Deep 3/8 drive works best
    13 MM wrench
    prybar
    pinch or long screwdriver
    small hammer
    Dremel tool with cutter or equal
    Silicone sealant
    Vaseline, dielectric grease, or silicone grease

    I want to tell you about upgrading your alternator in your 3rd gen Cummins.

    Lets start with the facts.
    The standard alternator for the 03 to 05 is 136 Amp. I could not find any optional sizes in those years. Starting with the 6.7 in 07.5, it appears the standard is 160 with a optional 180 Amp. I found info indicating the 06 had an optional 160 as well. These may have been a standard with the plow prep package, or towing package.

    All of these years a 180 is a bolt in. The 220 amp appears to be the same size, but I caution you. The main feed wire doesn't appear to be rated for that high an amperage. Even with it being short, the factory wiring is borderline for the 180. You mightbe able to make larger cables, I will be looking into that next. The bigger the pipe, the better the flow.

    I located a 2017 180 with 6K miles on it. From the looks of the truck, the only surviving part was the alternator. I bought that one as it's so new. But you can get 180's as low as 50 dollars ++. I paid slightly less than a rebuilt. History says the originals last much longer. And I get to keep mu core this way. I'll rebuild it and put it on the shelf, JIC.

    So This is what is in the 03 to 05. The onlt difference is the back. The early alts had the rectifier externally, while these are external





    THE 180 IS A DIRECT BOLT IN

    The only major difference is the two wire plug.

    In order to make the 2 wire plug to fit, you have to strip the outer jacket off the plug to the main body. Leave the locking clip. The plug has to be rotated 90* clockwise, looking at the pulley. Once the outer jacket is removed, it will slip right on. I suggest you apply some silicone grease or maybe some vaseline to prevent corrosion. At the place where you stopped cutting off the outer jacket, run a generous bead of silicone sealant. move it around to close off the plug socket. The locking clip will help with the alignment for the pins.

    Be gentle when plugging the 2 wire in. Prevent from bending the pins.

    You can remove the Battery wire off the alternator is you are careful. Slide the cover back, use a 13MM wrench and loosen the nut. Take it off with your fingers. It should spin right off. Slip the battery wire into an old sock, with out holes, LOL Then remove the 2 wire plug.

    Remove the belt. There are only 2 bolts holding the alternator. 15MM deep socket works great. The alternators have a sleeve that expands to clamp down on the bracket for alignment. You will have to pry with a curved pry bar or small pinch bar to get the original off the bracket. Be careful not to use the oil cooler as a pry brace. It's right there. Slide it straight sideways. Once off, you don't need that alternator anymore.

    If you get a used alternator, you may want to push the bushing back into the housing for easier installation. You need a punch device (Long screw driver) that will fit through front hole. Tap the busing back in flush with the body



    This way the alternator will float onto the bracket and make it easy to align the bolts. Top first, start it on the nut. You'll have to hold the nut in to start it. The nit just floats behind the bushing.
    You know what's next

    Prepare your plug. Dremel tool works great. Remember to lube the plug. Rotate the plug 90* clockwise, facing the pulley. Gently slip the plug on and seal. Put the belt on, test.



    I noticed my batteries are charging faster now. When the grid heater is engaged, I gained a whole volt. That's significant. You can't go wrong with this upgrade.


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

  2. Top Of Page | #2
    DDP's Avatar

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    How To Upgrade Your 3rd Gen Cummins Alternator To 180 Amp

    Awesome write up bud! Glad you were able to get it taken care of so quickly. Now lets hope those short trips won't kill ya anymore.

    Thanks for the info!!!!

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  4. Top Of Page | #3
    WE WILL STAND! IGOTACUMMINS's Avatar

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    How To Upgrade Your 3rd Gen Cummins Alternator To 180 Amp

    Great write up!

    Thank you for taking the time to do this.

    *Ask about becoming a Lifetime Platinum Member Today*

    "The grass is greener where you water it"


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  6. Top Of Page | #4
    Weeseven's Avatar

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    How To Upgrade Your 3rd Gen Cummins Alternator To 180 Amp

    Great write up can't wait to see it


    Life is a one time offer, make the most of it

    In pursuit of more power in which the wallet will allow mods to date. Edge Evolution, Banks Air Filter, 5" cat back Banks Monster exhaust, Billet built auto trans Triple disc TC, Derale trans cooler, Sinister coolant filter,5" aluminum drive shafts
    Gary

    http://igotacummins.com/vbrides.php?...3#.VT-wuiFVhBc


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  8. Top Of Page | #5
    david3gen's Avatar

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    How To Upgrade Your 3rd Gen Cummins Alternator To 180 Amp

    Quote Originally Posted by Polaraco View Post
    Hi there

    Tools needed:
    1/2 breaker bar or long ratchet
    15 MM Socket and ratchet. Deep 3/8 drive works best
    13 MM wrench
    prybar
    pinch or long screwdriver
    small hammer
    Dremel tool with cutter or equal
    Silicone sealant
    Vaseline, dielectric grease, or silicone grease

    I want to tell you about upgrading your alternator in your 3rd gen Cummins.

    Lets start with the facts.
    The standard alternator for the 03 to 05 is 136 Amp. I could not find any optional sizes in those years. Starting with the 6.7 in 07.5, it appears the standard is 160 with a optional 180 Amp. I found info indicating the 06 had an optional 160 as well. These may have been a standard with the plow prep package, or towing package.

    All of these years a 180 is a bolt in. The 220 amp appears to be the same size, but I caution you. The main feed wire doesn't appear to be rated for that high an amperage. Even with it being short, the factory wiring is borderline for the 180. You mightbe able to make larger cables, I will be looking into that next. The bigger the pipe, the better the flow.

    I located a 2017 180 with 6K miles on it. From the looks of the truck, the only surviving part was the alternator. I bought that one as it's so new. But you can get 180's as low as 50 dollars ++. I paid slightly less than a rebuilt. History says the originals last much longer. And I get to keep mu core this way. I'll rebuild it and put it on the shelf, JIC.

    So This is what is in the 03 to 05. The onlt difference is the back. The early alts had the rectifier externally, while these are external

    https://www.igotacummins.com/attachm...3&d=1509251164

    https://www.igotacummins.com/attachm...1&d=1509251164

    THE 180 IS A DIRECT BOLT IN

    The only major difference is the two wire plug.

    In order to make the 2 wire plug to fit, you have to strip the outer jacket off the plug to the main body. Leave the locking clip. The plug has to be rotated 90* clockwise, looking at the pulley. Once the outer jacket is removed, it will slip right on. I suggest you apply some silicone grease or maybe some vaseline to prevent corrosion. At the place where you stopped cutting off the outer jacket, run a generous bead of silicone sealant. move it around to close off the plug socket. The locking clip will help with the alignment for the pins.

    Be gentle when plugging the 2 wire in. Prevent from bending the pins.

    You can remove the Battery wire off the alternator is you are careful. Slide the cover back, use a 13MM wrench and loosen the nut. Take it off with your fingers. It should spin right off. Slip the battery wire into an old sock, with out holes, LOL Then remove the 2 wire plug.

    Remove the belt. There are only 2 bolts holding the alternator. 15MM deep socket works great. The alternators have a sleeve that expands to clamp down on the bracket for alignment. You will have to pry with a curved pry bar or small pinch bar to get the original off the bracket. Be careful not to use the oil cooler as a pry brace. It's right there. Slide it straight sideways. Once off, you don't need that alternator anymore.

    If you get a used alternator, you may want to push the bushing back into the housing for easier installation. You need a pinch device (Long screw driver) that will fit through front hole. Tap the busing back in flush with the body

    https://www.igotacummins.com/attachm...0&d=1509251164

    This way the alternator will float onto the bracket and make it easy to align the bolts. Top first, start it on the nut. You'll have to hold the nut in to start it. The nit just floats behind the bushing.
    You know what's next

    Prepare your plug. Dremel tool works great. Remember to lube the plug. Rotate the plug 90* clockwise, facing the pulley. Gently slip the plug on and seal. Put the belt on, test.

    https://www.igotacummins.com/attachm...5&d=1509251164

    I noticed my batteries are charging faster now. When the grid heater is engaged, I gained a whole volt. That's significant. You can't go wrong with this upgrade.
    Thank you for this great how to do it yourself upgrade.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    2006 dodge ram 2500 laramie crew cab 5.9 cummins. 10x20 et-24 fuel offroad with 275.60r20 tires. bully dog gt tuner. 48re ATS built tranny triple disc converter ATS oilpan and transgo quick shifter. 4" turbo back exhaust. brembo discs and pads

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  10. Top Of Page | #6
    HKBIGDADDYDIESELDAN's Avatar

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    How To Upgrade Your 3rd Gen Cummins Alternator To 180 Amp

    Quote Originally Posted by david3gen View Post
    Thank you for this great how to do it yourself upgrade.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Awesome job bud.

    2012 Cummins Ram 6.7L MM3 tuner full 5" Flo Pro TBE Exhaust LWBCC 4x4 Mag Hytec Double Deep Transmission Pan , Mag Hytec Rear Diff Cover
    Airlift part # 57595 7500lbs airbags ,Nitto Ridge Grapplers 35/12.50/20 on XD 829 Big Hoss ll Satin Black Machined Dark Tint 20 x 9 with + 18 offset rims,MM3 Tuner With full Custom Tunes by Ray at DRD , Autometer A13117 Pillar Pod , Edge 98004 mount adapter , Mag Hytec front diff cover, SuperNova V4 LED Headlight Bulbs

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  12. Top Of Page | #7

    How To Upgrade Your 3rd Gen Cummins Alternator To 180 Amp

    Good write up I'm running a 180 though and I also have installed a wiring kit with 0 gauge wires for both batteries and alternator wires. too.


  13. Top Of Page | #8

    How To Upgrade Your 3rd Gen Cummins Alternator To 180 Amp

    Good Job I will be doing a 220 soon.

    I have the 180 but I run a big stereo too so im upgrading to the 220.

    I already have these wires by CE Auto Electric https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/pro...ry-cable-kits/

    They are the best wires out and I bought the 0 gauge wires so I can run higher amps .


  14. Top Of Page | #9
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    How To Upgrade Your 3rd Gen Cummins Alternator To 180 Amp

    Quote Originally Posted by TwinnTibbsDiesel View Post
    Good Job I will be doing a 220 soon.

    I have the 180 but I run a big stereo too so im upgrading to the 220.

    I already have these wires by CE Auto Electric https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/pro...ry-cable-kits/

    They are the best wires out and I bought the 0 gauge wires so I can run higher amps .
    I didn't know they made a harness for that.

    Maybe it's a new product since I did mine?


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

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  16. Top Of Page | #10

    Re: How To Upgrade Your 3rd Gen Cummins Alternator To 180 Amp

    Quote Originally Posted by Polaraco View Post
    I didn't know they made a harness for that.

    Maybe it's a new product since I did mine?
    Yes it's fairly new and I Love it my truck runs so much better.

    It starts up first click and runs real smooth.

    Plus the Military Battery Terminals are Awesome!


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