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Had to replace my water pump again
OEM went bad and got one from O'Reilly's. Had a leak from the seal on the shaft after about 10k miles
Now my heat is cool to slightly warm at best. Was hit as hell before. Thinking either air somewhere in the system or even though I flushed before changing pump that there might be gunk in the heater core somehow
Any other thoughts
More than likely air. In my experience it’s always been Air. But you could have something obstructing flow
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--Work gives you meaning and purpose, Life is empty without it--
Ran it to temperature and let it cool down to about 80 degrees so coolant would settle and air move to top
Just went out to the barn and checked the radiator. Coolant was about 4/5 full now overflow still full
Fan blowing right at all speeds
Nice and hot @ 160
I'll let it cool completely off tonight and check level in the morning. Probably grab a gallon of coolant in the morning. Looks like it can take a 1/2 gallon or so
When filling the engine with coolant after flushing is a bit of an issue. But I found in the past that when system is closed, I leave the thermostat and housing off and fill until 1/4" from the top of that hole. Then install the thermo and housing. Then slowly fill the rest through the radiator cap opening. Still might get a taste of an air pocket, but very little. Then check after a couple runs.
It would be nice if they had a high point bleed on the thermostat housing, because air can be a total pain in the a$$ at times.
Jim
2006 ~ 2500HD, Big Horn Edition, 5.9, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Kit, 60 gal main tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel Filter System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear end covers and trans pan, 285 x 70 x 17
"Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children’s children what it was once like in the United States, where men 'were' free." ~ Ronald Regan
When flushed it was vacuumed to remove air. The system was exposed today though when I had to open it again to remove the water pump
I don't know why Cummins designed the cooling system on these the way they did
It seems to never be easy when i have to do this as well LOL. Always takes time and burping it and messing with it. Luckily i live where i don't ever hardly need the heater. When cold weather comes i roll down the windows and be thankful im not sweating today haha!
Matthew 6:9-13, 2 Corinthians 5:20
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You're supposed to open the bleeder and allow the air to vent. The 6.7 is easy because they give you a tube with a plug in the end of it. 5.9's have a plug next to the alternator on the head
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
I knew it had to be something like that. When i replaced my waterpump a couple of years ago i struggled like hell to get it refilled with waterOriginally Posted by Polaraco
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2006 dodge ram 2500 laramie crew cab 5.9 cummins. 10x20 et-24 fuel offroad with 275.60r20 tires. bully dog gt tuner. 48re ATS built tranny triple disc converter ATS oilpan and transgo quick shifter. 4" turbo back exhaust. brembo discs and pads
Chalk up another one for the Green Team.
@AnOldBiker
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
Was out and filled until coolant topped out
I pulled the new Mopar thermostat and dropped in another just to see if it did any good. Replacing cap with another OEM. And doing the recovery hose just in case there's a hole or split somewhere I can't see
My recovery isn't draining back now. So I'm getting so pressure building and temps are sporadic. Oil is clear of anything
IF it's somehow a HG it has to have lifted just slightly to pull compression into the cooling system. Trying the simple stuff first
I'm not down on power, boost or anything that reflects a HG. Other than the overflow bottle there's no other symptoms of a HG
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