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I am considering freeing my 2011 6.7 2500 from the power sucking soot.
I have read many posts regarding the process and the necessary purchases, I am down to selecting tuner. With little exception everyone is in favor of deleting.
Are there any issues doing so with my rig being a 6 speed manual?
Thanks
Russ
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Ray is a 2nd generation programmer. I come from the first generation. Only one was any good at it. He's gone. There's two now, Hard to say which is the best. Ray is an active vendor so I lean towards him. But I love them both. (I have to be fair) So the rest of your concerns will go away.Originally Posted by crussellrobinson
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
You will have no issues with your manual trans if you decide to delete and also stick with a lower powered tune. If you decide to up the performance, then be prepared to get an upgraded clutch. Other than that you should be good to go. 👌
Greg
2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | Custom tuned by Double R Diesel
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310
Greg
2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI
It never ceases to amaze me why they can't put a stronger clutch in at the factory. My only suspect is the cab vs the bell housing. The tunnel won't allow a larger diameter clutch. It needs more surface. If I were the engineer, I'd put a tunnel under the dash. Who sits in the middle anyway?
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
When I purchased the truck I had a new Mopar clutch installed. I suspected that the OEM clutch would not stand up to much timing.
My intention is to delete (EGR, DPF, 5 inch with a muffler, CCV mod, throttle valve) and add 30 to 50 hp total.
Can I do that with the new clutch?
I pull 3 to 4 times each summer a 26 foot bumper pull RV and pretty frequently a 22 foot utility trailer.
Not looking to build a speed demon. Mostly looking for an improvement in mpg, and preserve this beautiful engine.
Thoughts?
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walla2k5 liked this post
Running only 30-50hp shouldn't give too much trouble. Once you get to the 100 mark you need to really pay attention.
Greg
2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | Custom tuned by Double R Diesel
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310
Greg
2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI
Just deleted my 2014 with a G56 about a month ago. MM3 with tunes from double r diesel. I haven't had any problems with it. I don't beat on it but I don't baby it either. I get about 6 mpg more after the delete.
Jim
2014 6.7l, G56, 37" tires, full deletes double r diesel mm3
walla2k5 liked this post
What brand/model fender flares are those friend?
Diesel Master Tech Certified - ICML Machinery Lube Certified
2002 QCLB 2500 5.9 HO NV5600 = Ranch truck with CM Flatbed, DPS Exh/Int Manifolds, Boost Elbow
2018 CCLB 2500 ST 6.7 G56 = Glacier intake manifold & horn, Flo-pro 4" SS, MM3 with DRD 30hp tune, Valair quiet dual disc clutch, Laramie 18's powder coated black and blackout badges
What tuner you going with?
david3gen liked this post
Still researching. I am a little concerned about the Mini Maxx..but i see it everywhere. Based on what I plan I to do I think the MM3 would work for me. The Race Me Ultra seems like a more solid long term solution. Any recommendations?
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