Considering deleting...any issues with the G56 6 Speed?

**IGOTACUMMINS** · 05-31-2017

Originally Posted by crussellrobinson

Still researching. I am a little concerned about the Mini Maxx..but i see it everywhere. Based on what I plan I to do I think the MM3 would work for me. The Race Me Ultra seems like a more solid long term solution. Any recommendations?

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H&S is out of business so there's no support. The RaceME Ultra is boxed tuned and you don't want that. Get the MM3 custom tuned.

You'll be glad you did friend. 👍😁

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**Thundervee** · 05-31-2017

MM3 from Ray @Double R Diesel

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**HKBIGDADDYDIESELDAN** · 05-31-2017

Originally Posted by Thundervee

MM3 from Ray @DoubleRDiesel

Ray from Double R Diesel with the RaceMe MM3 best tuner and tuning wizard and great guy

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**F350Cummins** · 05-31-2017

@Brotherdime just deleted his G56 truck talk to him.

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**OneTon** · 05-31-2017

I deleted my 2015 G56 earlier this year. I run an MM3 with tunes from Ray @Double R Diesel. My base ECM tune is 60hp, which means that is the default on every start. Running the base tune 90% of the time and playing around with the 90hp and 120hp tunes every so often (not going full throttle though) and towing an 8,000lb camper a handful of times on the 60hp tune, I was able to milk 12,000 miles out of my stock clutch after tuning. I finally had to swap my stock dual mass junker out for a dual disk this past weekend because the stocker was chattering at take off and I could barely merge on to the highway without it slipping.

If you are going to stick in the 30-50 hp range and tow heavy-ish on occasion, you may be able to get more than 12,000 miles out of it...it really all depends on how many miles are on your clutch and how worn out the clutch is presently. Bottom line is even at stock power levels, the factory clutches are sub par and generally need replacement before the 100,000 mile mark.

My advice...start saving for a good dual disk (Valair or South Bend). Either option is going to run you $1,300-$1,500 ish just for the parts...tack on another grand or so if you want someone to put it in for you. I'd also recommend swapping the ATF out for some synchromesh or Delvac 50 if you go this route as you will absolutely have gear rollover.

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**crussellrobinson** · 06-01-2017

Originally Posted by OneTon

I deleted my 2015 G56 earlier this year. I run an MM3 with tunes from Ray @Double R Diesel. My base ECM tune is 60hp, which means that is the default on every start. Running the base tune 90% of the time and playing around with the 90hp and 120hp tunes every so often (not going full throttle though) and towing an 8,000lb camper a handful of times on the 60hp tune, I was able to milk 12,000 miles out of my stock clutch after tuning. I finally had to swap my stock dual mass junker out for a dual disk this past weekend because the stocker was chattering at take off and I could barely merge on to the highway without it slipping.

If you are going to stick in the 30-50 hp range and tow heavy-ish on occasion, you may be able to get more than 12,000 miles out of it...it really all depends on how many miles are on your clutch and how worn out the clutch is presently. Bottom line is even at stock power levels, the factory clutches are sub par and generally need replacement before the 100,000 mile mark.

My advice...start saving for a good dual disk (Valair or South Bend). Either option is going to run you $1,300-$1,500 ish just for the parts...tack on another grand or so if you want someone to put it in for you. I'd also recommend swapping the ATF out for some synchromesh or Delvac 50 if you go this route as you will absolutely have gear rollover.

Thanks this great info. I will start saving for an MM3. My clutch is brand new. The dealer installe

d a new Mopar clutch on purchase. I probably should have insisted on an upgraded clutch at that point. Also did the main rear seal.

I tow only in the summer and it's not a huge trailer. I used to pull it with a gas F250 (not a fun experience).

I will get the fluid upgraded when I do the differentials.

What is gear roll over?

Russ

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**OneTon** · 06-01-2017

Originally Posted by crussellrobinson

Thanks this great info. I will start saving for an MM3. My clutch is brand new. The dealer installe

d a new Mopar clutch on purchase. I probably should have insisted on an upgraded clutch at that point. Also did the main rear seal.

I tow only in the summer and it's not a huge trailer. I used to pull it with a gas F250 (not a fun experience).

I will get the fluid upgraded when I do the differentials.

What is gear roll over?

Russ

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No problem at all good sir.
Gear rollover comes in to play when you switch to a solid flywheel. It basically sounds like rocks in your transmission when you're in gear at low rpm's and when idling in neutral. The dual mass flywheel dampens this sound, but at the expense of a weaker clutch.

Example:

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**poorwhiteboy** · 09-03-2017

Originally Posted by OneTon

No problem at all good sir.
Gear rollover comes in to play when you switch to a solid flywheel. It basically sounds like rocks in your transmission when you're in gear at low rpm's and when idling in neutral. The dual mass flywheel dampens this sound, but at the expense of a weaker clutch.

Example:

is this gear rollover bad on the truck or is it more obnoxious than harmfull?

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