Ok. This won't be about removal or anything.
You can do this also to blanks on your main switch panel ( not just on the aux. / seat heater panel) if there are any blanks. (I am talking about the panel with tow/haul, traction control ect), the 2013+ are harder as they don't have individual switch covers, but instead a giant blank panel installed
The jk (wrangler) was almost identical, except molding and I used a momentary switch
( if you dont know what you need Google momentary vs latching switch, short version: latching its press on press off. Momentary is either press on then when released off or press off then released back on. )
Take the switch covers apart releasing the tabs showed below (one on each side I used a hook kit and a flat head
20200202_204538.jpg
15807017453032577326161165939482.jpg
20200202_212014.jpg
There are tabs on every "blank" (unused) switch cover they will be in this location, you can use either a diagonal cutter, flush cutter, or a razor blade
(I have already removed the tabs, sorry )
20200202_205046.jpg
When I did the momentary switch in the jeep ( garage door opener ) I needed a rigid base that took minimal pressure, i used peices of sil fos, cut them longer then the hole by a minimal amount and wedged them in the plastic, and super glued them, then soldered the momentary switch to the sil fos. (No pictures, as it's installed )
This one I used thicker wood (from an old toy) as there is a lip I could use and it would take the correct pressure needed to actuate the switch ( so between these 2 stories I am getting at you will need to improvise, adapt and overcome for your situation. )
You can see the wood in the pics below
20200202_203352.jpg
20200202_202924.jpg
You will need some switches ( I buy them from ebay or Amazon in multi packs usually so you can test what you need. The momentary switches come with different size necks [taller/ shorter] and the long ones you can cut down to size. Some switches have 4 pins, you will need to use a multi meter to ohm it which pins you will be using, I like to mark these with a sharpie, so I can see it later and don't have to continually do it
20200202_210601.jpg
Put them in on your support and make modifications as needed ( cut to width, drill holes in, solder switch to, ect )
Before permanently securing them down ( gluing, if you so choose ) you will need to solder wires to the switch, I use 18ga wire as it is small enough to route, and generally can run enough current to operate a relay ( don't run high amp loads through these switches or wires, use relays! )
Dry fit the switch, in the hole. You need to make sure the switch cover can not only actuate the switch, but has enough spring power to return to normal position! If not use either a longer switch, glue an extension onto either the switch or the cover, so that it contacts the switch, or use wood ( as I did, I stacked it for the one used in the examples) ( again no pictures as this was already done)
For switch return I used the springs out of pens I get for free, you can cut them down, if you need to remove some strength from them; if they are too short you can stretch them, I had to do both to this unit
20200202_202924.jpg
They just happened to fit perfectly!
Next, route your wires, this will depend on your space, mine ran perfect down and to these holes I drilled, my jk I ran internally and out the sides
20190413_153145.jpg
I used a price of stout cardboard to protect the rubber membrane from the springs, the wrangler I used momentary switches with long necks, so I just put the spring on the long neck of the switch, and was able to center it ( which helps allot with switch return! ), so this was not needed
20200202_203410.jpg
....
That's about it, any questions let me know. I did this a long while ago, sorry i can't be more specific, but i don't know the specific pns and whatnot anymore.
As to the homelink... that will depend on the model.
I recommend always ebaying the newest model (version) at present iirc it's hl5.
All I do is use my meter, and ohm out the switches and solder wires on both sides of it (again marking the pcb with a sharpie ) the good news is one side of the switches is always the same ( power , aka 12vdc side)
And solder power supply (12vdc and common) I sometimes have to test with jumpers, but they all conve with an obvious connector that has power and in the newer vehicles communication ( in the rams, it will say channel 1 transmitting on the dash... that's through the communication.)
I am sure the homelink section is clear as mud. As I have no pictures, sorry there are plenty of guides on the web though. I hope the switches section, allows for people to feel more comfortable modding them. If I do another panel, I'll try to take a step by step pictures...
Thanks: 
Likes: 
Originally Posted by Mega Man
Ok. This won't be about removal or anything.
Register To Reply
Bookmarks