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I'm wanting to use the switch blanks next to the heated steering wheel switch. Why would they put in blanks if they cannot be used in the future? I've seen the aux switch panels, but from what I understand, they cannot be modified. Any ideas here??
I get the feeling this has been around the world a few times and I may be SOL.
walla2k5 liked this post
Unfortunately, they are not actually blanks, the switch is built with a circuit board inside. I have an SLT with no lower switch panel and have been looking into the Mopar aux switch panel and it only gives you four switches and has three of the "blanks". From what I've read the easiest way to install the aux switch panel is to wire it separate from the truck.Originally Posted by diamond d
In your case since the steering wheel switch panel is installed in the lower row you are just SOL. Why they build the panels like this I have no idea, but it is really annoying. I could totally fill up every "blank" switch on the dash with accessory lighting and other gizmos
My theory is that engineers just don't think like normal people, and or do stuff like this just to piss off the end user/mechanic. I'm a helicopter mechanic and they like to put often replaced parts in locations that are hard to get to, or require you to remove a bunch of other parts to replace it.
Your best bet is to find a switch style you like and go with that. I added some pics of a disassembled factory switch panel I found as well as a fairly clean looking aftermarket switch set up I saw online as well.
I know that isn't the best answer, but until someone builds an aftermarket switch panel that looks factory and keeps the seat and steering wheel heater switches (probably not very likely to happen) that's what you're stuck with.
Good luck
2011 Ram 3500 SLT, 6.7 Cummins. 4.10 gears 68RFE Transmission. RaceMe Ultra with Warp Tuning by DRD, DDP Hooligan turbo, GDP Air Boss grid delete, S-2 Intake manifold and Mega-Flow TVM Grid Heater. 4 inch superlift lift kit with Bilstein shocks, dual steering stabilizer. 35x12.5x20 Toyo AT3s on black KMC XD795 wheels. Fender flares, N-Fab 6 step nerf bars.Honestly it's just a tow rig...
walla2k5 liked this post
Another idea I found online.ude8ygus.jpg
2011 Ram 3500 SLT, 6.7 Cummins. 4.10 gears 68RFE Transmission. RaceMe Ultra with Warp Tuning by DRD, DDP Hooligan turbo, GDP Air Boss grid delete, S-2 Intake manifold and Mega-Flow TVM Grid Heater. 4 inch superlift lift kit with Bilstein shocks, dual steering stabilizer. 35x12.5x20 Toyo AT3s on black KMC XD795 wheels. Fender flares, N-Fab 6 step nerf bars.Honestly it's just a tow rig...
walla2k5 liked this post
Thanks, it's what I thought.
Ahh thanks. Just as I suspected, simple carbon contact switches. Basically momentary switches, that goes through a logic circuit to turn a function on or off. I'm really surprised that a replacement panel upgrade hasn't been made. Seems our Asian friends could make this for pennies to be sold for dollars here. I don't think there is enough room for a push-button latch on/off behind the blanks. Maybe a small pintle that goes through the board and pushes on a switch mounted on the back of the assembly.
switch.jpg
I have seen a few write ups on other Dodge forums where they disassembled the factory switch panel and modified the blanks to be functional. It looks like a lot of work but it is possible.
Greg
2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | Custom tuned by Double R Diesel
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310
Greg
2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI
I have a 2010 TRX and I was wanting to put a some added switches onto the dash. Since this thread has told me the original "blanks" aren't actually blanks... I have heard you can replace the bottom RAM symbol with a row of switches and I found this online --> http://www.factoryMoparparts.com/oe-Mopar/5164912ac
Is that what I need? Has anybody ever done this?
Any help is appreciated!
Have you seen these ?
http://www.otrattw.net
Jim
2006 ~ 2500HD, Big Horn Edition, 5.9, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Kit, 60 gal main tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel Filter System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear end covers and trans pan, 285 x 70 x 17
"Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children’s children what it was once like in the United States, where men 'were' free." ~ Ronald Regan
walla2k5 liked this post
I was just looking to add a couple aux light switches to my pickup, and couldn't find anything online that uses the factory blanks. Thanks guys, for the info. It was a lot easier on my Jeep, just knock out the blank and slip a switch in. You'd think Chrysler is Chrysler...Guess I'll shop for some switch panels.
2013 Ram 2500 Big Horn 4x4 G56 CCLB 6.7, MM3 Tuned by Double R Diesel, Flo-Pro 4" Exhaust, Deviant Race Parts Goodies, ARP Head Studs, South Bend Clutch, 3" Thuren Front Springs w/Fox Shocks All-Around, Hell-Bent Steel Steering Box Brace, Thuren Track Bar, Air-Lift 5000, Deviant Race Parts 70" Traction Bars, Falken Wild-Peak AT3W LT285/75R18 (34.8x11.3x18) on Moto Metal MO970 18x9 +18mm
Power247 liked this post
This is on my list of mods. To make those switches work correctly you have to also get the matching wiring harness. You also have to use relays because these switches are not designed to hold much current. If you Google 'ram upfitter switches' you will find a bunch of good info. I will do a write up on here if I get a chance to do it this summer.
Greg
2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | Custom tuned by Double R Diesel
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310
Greg
2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI
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