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Thread: How to install a PUSHER Air Horn on a 5.9 Cummins

  1. Top Of Page | #1
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    How to install a PUSHER Air Horn on a 5.9 Cummins

    Ladies and Gentlemen

    www.Truckwurx.com took on a inexpensive, no frills line of air horns. This Pusher Air Horn costs $200 bucks as a complete kit. It's a great investment against all the cast units and looks like it flows better! There are no sharp turns. Just a smooth sweep.

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    I bought one as I am on a budget and was quite surprised. The pictures don't do the piece justice.

    With that said, let's talk about the install. With taking pictures it took 27 minutes. Including the tool scrounge.

    TOOLS NEEDED

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    3/16 hex wrench
    medium screw driver
    13 MM or 1/2" Combo wrench
    11 MM deep socket
    10 MM shallow socket
    1/4 or 3/8 ratchet and a 6" extension
    Gasket Scraper (Not Shown)
    Never Sieze
    PB Blaster or equal penetrating oil

    Start Install

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    First
    Spray the threads of the T bolt on the boot clamp. This prevents the the threads binding and stripping while you back the nut off.

    Loosen the nut on the strap clamp all the way to the end, but not off the T Bolt.

    Slide the clamp down on the boot.

    Using a screw driver or a thin blunt ended object, loosen the boot and slide it down.

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    Using the 10MM socket, remove the nut off the back of the air horn on the wiring harness. You'll have to pry the wires off the stud.

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    Last edited by Polaraco; 12-06-2012 at 06:52 PM.

  2. Top Of Page | #2
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    There is a plastic wire tie with a stud that needs to be pried out as well. It's easier when the horn is off.

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    Remove the bolt holding the dip stick to the air horn 10MM Socket

    Remove the 4 bolts holding the air horn to the intake with the 10MM Short socket and extension. You need to take them completely out so not to get caught on the grid heater.

    Manipulate the air horn out gently

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    In my case, the gasket stayed completely in tact. I was lucky. I coated it with Never Seize to make sure it sealed and prevent sticking in the future,
    The kit comes with one new gasket just in case.

    INSTALL THE NEW HORN
    PREP


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    Last edited by Polaraco; 12-06-2012 at 06:06 PM.

  3. Top Of Page | #3
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Install the 2 supplied plugs, or as needed. If you have a gauge, you only need one.

    Use a little Never Seize to seal and lubricate the threads. It also prevents electrolysis,

    Thread the plugs in until they are real snug. Do not over tighten. Let them stick out a bit.

    The threads are National Pipe Thread (NPT) which is tapered. The threads in the air horn are tapped properly, so it sticks out a 1/16th or so. So many air horns make the mistake of making the plugs flush.

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    Slip in the new air horn and align the bolt holes.

    Dress the threads on the bolts with some Never Seize to seal and lube the threads. Slip the bolts in and get them started. You may have to wiggle the air horn slightly to get everything lined up so there is no binding. Remember, you have to go through the air horn and the grid heater to align with the bolt holes.

    After they are all started, run them in by hand until bottomed.

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    Torque it down to around 35 foot pounds. (Heh Feels like 35 foot pounds)

    Next slip the boot back onto the air horn.

    You'll need to insert the screw driver and slide it around to get the boot all the way up. It's easier if you start the boot on the back. Just slide the screw driver around the horn. Insert the driver so the tip points to the center. This will prevent you poking any holes in the coupler.

    Note: DO NOT LUBRICATE THE COUPLER OR AIR HORN. DOING SO MAY CAUSE THE BOOT TO SLIDE OFF.

    Slide the clamp up and tighten with the 11MM deep socket. AGAIN! Do not over tighten You need just enough to keep the boot tight and from leaking.

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    You're almost done!

    The Dip Stick is a bit cumbersome to attach.

    Push down on the curve in the back and pull the stick tube forward. Push down enough to assist in moving the stick forward about 1/2".

    Reuse the bolt and insert into the slots. Install thread the supplied nut on the bottom.

    Using the 1/2" or 13MM wrench, hold the nut and tighten with the 10MM socket. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!

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    Last edited by Polaraco; 12-06-2012 at 08:18 PM.

  4. Top Of Page | #4
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Nuff Said

    This is what you took out.

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    That's a big restriction!

    I gained 3 pounds of boost with just this mod. Went from 25 to 28 PSI, WOT. For such a inexpensive mod, the gains were tremendous.

    Someone finally came up with a cost effective solution, and it doesn't look half bad. You can get the air horn in powder coated colors too. I was just too cheap to spend the bucks. LOL

    Enjoy the upgrade and Happy Cumminsing!


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  6. Top Of Page | #5
    Permanent Vacation Truckwurx's Avatar

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    Nice Work Steve! Will be very helpful


  7. Top Of Page | #6
    JOKER! F350Cummins's Avatar

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    Sticky. Good write up Steve!

    2014 Ram 2500 CCSB Ram Box Larime
    2011 Ram 5500
    2006 Diesel Jeep Liberty
    RIP. 2016 Tradesman 2500 picked up 9/28/16 MM3 DRD Tuning 107K miles wrecked by jeep wrangler.....


    Other Toys: 1973 Charger Bougham edition 400 big block 42K original miles
    Unicycles (about 3 dozen)


    6 in a row makes her go

  8. Top Of Page | #7
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Awww shucks Gee whizz thanks Guys.

    Gonna try to do the boost tubes next


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