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Last spring I installed a full 4" turbo back exhaust, egr delete, and raceme jr. tuner on my 2011 ram 2500 but I skipped out on deleting the throttle valve so I just unplugged has anyone heard of the spring wearing out in the butterfly valve and cause the valve to close when its not supposed to? Has this happened to anyone? What were some of the symptoms?
It's not spring loaded. It's a servo motor. It's unlikely it closed itself.
What's going on?
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
Right after 1500 rpm the engine sound like it missing.
It's nothing noticeable on the tachometer it's strictly sound. I started tearing into it last night trying to get the turbo out to clean it and noticed a little line going from the exhaust manifold to the coolant inlet on the block was broke clean in half. Not sure if that would be contributing to my issue though
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TV is still in place on my '12 and so far no issues since unplugging it.
Greg
2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | Custom tuned by Double R Diesel
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310
Greg
2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI
So I'm still working on removing my turbo in an attempt to clean it. Anybody have any suggestions on how to get the coolant line and oil drain off the bottom of the turbo?
Doesn't plugging the tv back in fix a similar issue. Can't remember the particulars but I was reading about it in here somewhere. Maybe the raceme premium forum?
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The oil return line just plugs into the block by hand and unbolts from the turbo, pop it out of the block first, it's flexible.Originally Posted by jas
I think I unbolted the coolant from the block too first then worked on the turbo side. Update - yeah It was the block first
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2012 2500 ST w/ manmual 4x4 from the auction w 16k miles - Upgrades so far - Leather, LED bed lights, HID projectors, Nav = Appradio3 w ARU unchained reloaded full touch screencast & tailgate handle backup camera, homemade front hitch and reciever w 12k lb winch, reverse lights, soft open tailgate, transfercase linkage mod, Ultra and deletes, folding back seat mod, Kicker hideaway under drivers seat, Fumoto valve and safety clip, new warrantied turbo at 16k. Rocker Aux panel switches, Ford fold away bed extender, inverter outlet mod, soon an overhead console. Pulling a 2001 Prokat 2200WA around on my days off.
So I got the turbo off finally and I took the compressor housing and the turbine housing off and that's it. Haven't removed the VGT actuator or anything like that. Can someone point me in the right direction as far as cleaning and/or determining if it needs to be replaced
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Youtube, I watched a few video tutorials. A guy tears one down on his benchtop
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2012 2500 ST w/ manmual 4x4 from the auction w 16k miles - Upgrades so far - Leather, LED bed lights, HID projectors, Nav = Appradio3 w ARU unchained reloaded full touch screencast & tailgate handle backup camera, homemade front hitch and reciever w 12k lb winch, reverse lights, soft open tailgate, transfercase linkage mod, Ultra and deletes, folding back seat mod, Kicker hideaway under drivers seat, Fumoto valve and safety clip, new warrantied turbo at 16k. Rocker Aux panel switches, Ford fold away bed extender, inverter outlet mod, soon an overhead console. Pulling a 2001 Prokat 2200WA around on my days off.
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