Thanks: 
Likes: 
UPDATE - I have also added notes and firmware upgrade directions and will add more for my future reference, and yours of course.
As a complete noob to tuning I'm writing this for my personal reference/directions for this weekend, that way no mistakes are made, and to later link to my "Newbie guide to Cummins" thread so others can use it. I found that a lot of the information is all over the website and in different files/PDFs and jumps to different points, so I am making a complete top to bottom "how to" with pics in one place. I will also include what to do on your computer without missing steps e.g. removing mass storage device vs just pulling the USB drive out and corrupting the files if they are still writing to the drive or finalizing. It's a work in progress. Update: Pics are links to google photos because it's unlimited and auto downloads from my phone - sorry can't figure out how to show the pic automatically on this site yet.
First thing's to do after getting the tuner
- Don't delete or add hardware yet
- Create a folder on your desktop - name it Ultra
- Download all Ultra files to computer and or folder. Current link - http://www.raceme.eu/index.php?page=product&info=11
- Read PDF "updating Software on Ultra" Current direct link - http://www.raceme.eu/index.php?page=...1&dl_media=185
- Read PDF "How to install hardware" (dont do it yet, just read it)
- Insert SD card into computer (Might as well make a copy of the files, just encase, store it in a folder on you computer)
- Install the Zip program from the link in that pdf
- Unzip The large Zip file to the folder you made. It will automatically make a folder with the same name as the file, but that folder is now where the unzipped files will be
- Click on one of the unzipped files click control+A to select all, then control+C to copy
- Open the drive hit control+V to paste
- An overwrite screen will pop up, check the box "do this to the next conflicts"
- click copy and replace to overwrite - In my case it will write 1.1.9 over 1.1.2
- close windows once done
- Click on the icon near the clock to remove the card, click remove mass storage device so that you know it is still not copying or accessing the drive, pull out drive when a notification pops up that it is safe to remove. Close the drive's window if you forgot, repeat eject if an error to eject pops up.
- Remove adapter from Computer
USB microSD Adapter note: If an error pops up use a mico SD to SD adapter to copy the files instead of the micro sd to usb - they have been known to be glitchy. Update - If you can use a SD card reader adapter use it from the start - microSD adapters rarely fail.
Go to truck
- Don't delete the DPF/ EGR yet, and don't connect OBDII yet
- Connect module and reader cube together
- Connect micro USB wire to module
- zip tie wire to module to prevent bending the port inside
How to install hardware
pdf Current link - http://www.raceme.eu/index.php?page=...=11&dl_media=8
With my ultra hardwarevinstall I went for most OEM/hidden look possible while keeping the unlock cable installed and/or ready to be plugged in.
Follow the main harness and zip tie with mini ties over towards the passenger side
https://goo.gl/photos/AnMFDSC4oCuRnBAw7
Hood boot.jpg
follow this pathway up into the channel that can be opened if you unclip it.
https://goo.gl/photos/deqZjAtZtBtVTyQ79
IMG_20161023_180157.jpg
- temporarily route through the window if you plan to disconnect once the vehicle is tuned.
- Raceme says: We also have additional features planned that require the RSA unlock cable to be connected!
Run unlock cable through firewall OEM style (still need to edit and add pics after some sleep)
- Less OEM option - you can use the blank plate on the firewall, it has foam on the back to help seal things after you drill through it and/or you can add a rubber thru-hull boot as well if you want, and or a dab of some caulking
- Peel off tape to the firewall rubber "thru hull/boot" so that you can see the edge of the boot and the wire.
- Peel off the tape on the inside of the cab
- Go under the hood and peel up the top of the boot. It will have a black tar/playdo type sealant that isn't too sticky once peeled back. Once peeled back push forceps up and through the goop on top of the wires. I used large forceps because they have a blunt tip, are skinny, and can pass through and grab stuff. I got the large ones at harbor freight a long time ago when I needed a weird long set of grabbers. You will feel once you slide through the 1/2" to 3/4" of goop.
- Now the hood wires go up and into the boot, then the cab side of the wires go down from the boot so you have a hill or upside down U curve you have to work with.
- Go to the cab and on top of the wires slide the forceps up
- Once at the top you are going to have to work your way down the "hill" out in the hood
- If you are not a gentle/patient person when it is needed, have a friend watch the forceps rub on the boot on the hood side. Guide the forceps down the rubber to the outlet of the boot. The boot will stretch just fine and not tear. I added a feeder wire vs pulling the unlock connector with wire through using the forceps since you only have about 6 inches of jaws to work with. This requires taping a coat hanger or like 12 guage solid strand wire from some home electeical wire romex. Tape it atleast 6 inches. At the edge of the connector wrap the tape until it ramps up gradually past the edge of the connector. So as you pull the wire through the edge of the connector doesn't snag on anything or create friction.
- Now unlock/open the forceps, I used a flat head screwdriver to pry the jaws open easily on the hood side
- Insert feeder wire into the jaws at least an inch from the end so that you have good leverage, and put the wire inline to make it smoother not across the jaws. Using a full romex wire may bypass the need for forseps and be blunt enough to slide through the boot if taped up and sturdy enough to give a good push through. Use dielectric grease to help slide the forcepts or romex through the first few inches.
- Run the screen wire
- See pic how I routed the wires in the cab to hide with the OEM wiring and have the module out of the way
- Connect unlock wire
- Pop off the speaker grill using a credit card or license, its' by the drivers side corner of the window
- You will see the magnet and speaker when looking up under the dash
feed the wire between the speaker and dash and use forceps to grab and pull through the thicker plastic part of the usb connector that will go to the screen.- Insert grills tabs, when facing the front guide the wire to come out to the left in the front corner.
- pop the speaker grill back down with the wire coming out in the corner
- Connect the wire to the Ultra
- Mount the Ultra to the suction cup or edge CTS pillar mount
- slide SD card in
- mount to window or pillar
- slide power micro usb power cable in
Pillar mount install
https://www.igotacummins.com/showthread.php?t=5609
Update Ultra
- Plug in OBDII (the car should still be off)
- touch screen to wake up
- If it doesn't start the auto update automatically
- Got to settings
- click down in the available options until you get to update firmware
- select
- confirm update
Now to program the ECM
Notes
- (DPF is still on) If it's cold, or your batteries are old or have sat for awhile, drive around and run some errands to charge things up (so it doesn't die while updating the ECM)
- Never do the programming in the morning without fully charged batteries
- Programming with a Voltage below 12.3 Volts will lead to problems.
- Connect the Ultra tuner to the OBDII connector under the dash
- In the Main Menu select ECM save stock file and then Install tuning with deletes
- You can select with or without horsepower (car still has not been turned on yet after you started flashing ecm)
- there is no special sequence required for the RSA encryption unlock, the tuner does this itself while it is flashing the truck.
- Once the tuner is finished the flash install process, which requires you to follow the prompts on the Ultra screen for key on / off cycling (don't "start" just use the "on" "off" key positions), the unlock cable and the tuner can be disconnected and removed. (Still dont turn on car with ecm updated but with DPF still on)
- Raceme note - However, there is no reason to disconnect the unlock cable from the ECM and we advise installing and routing the cable through the firewall for a permanent installation.
- IMPORTANT NOTE: If you are uninstalling the tuner and going back to stock tuning, the RSA unlock cable MUST be connected to the ECM when you return the ECM to stock software. Without the unlock cable in place the tuner will not be unlocked as it requires the RSA encryption to be re-activated in the ECM. So for the the half dozenth time leave the unlock cable in place.
Now delete/take out the DPF - (couple personal notes that might help)
- Unbolt three bolts
- Unclamp the rear clamp of the DPF/Nox
- Unclip sensors, (slide safety clip first then press tab and pull apart)
- Pull off rubber hose clamp at the front
- With plyers squeeze the hose clamp and disconnect forward transmission line from the DPF skinny metal line
- Now take off the back line from up where it goes to the transmission
- Unclip the sensor up there while you are in the area
- Bend and slide the front tube over the back transmission port to keep bugs out. slide the hose clamp on if you want
- slide DPF/Nox forward and pull off rear rubber hanger, push back and forth until the hangers are where you need them to get them off, clear grease works well to get the rubber hanger to slide over the ridge at the end of the hanger studs
- Push DPF back on rear rubber hanger until the bolts have clearance to slide past. I laid on my back under it and pushed with my toes on the clamp at the rear of the DPF/nox section then the NOX/DPF will slide down at the bolts, turn and wiggle out of the rear slip joint with help from you feet, your legs can help lower everything down to yourbody and slide it out from under the truck without messing things up on it.
- If you want to delete the muffler now is the time and then the down pipe aka catalytic converter
- To do the cat you have to do a lot of work. It increases the noise in the cabin and was too much for me so read up on cat back vs turbo back on our trucks before you decide to do this. I regretted it, had to spend another $150 for just the DPF delete pipe, now have a turbo back to muffler delete I don't need, and spent another day putting the cat back in. If I didn't have neighbors and work nights and up so early that I would wake them up I wouldn't care so much about the noise also, but I have been in a racer and driven for hours and felt like I had been in a concert after and so I prefer the quietest cabin possible. So think about it.
- Support the trans and unbolt 2 of the large bolts on the passenger side and one on the drivers side, and loosen the 4th on the drivers side, take out the three bolts in the center of the cross member, so the cross member can pivot down. I had a jack for the trans, a few jack stands just encase, and a jack under the passenger side cross member. I slowly let it down, but there is a lot of friction and I had to use the rubber handle of a crescent wrench to pry it down w leverage. In the end I think it actually required removing the 4th bolt to pivot down far enough, I did and used a jack under that 4th bolt for safety while I pivoted everything down far enough
- unbolt the V-clamp on the turbo while laying under it
- take off the hanger and pull out
- I put a 2x4 or two under the new down pipe
- and laid it in the area it needed to go
- Jack the cross member back up and bolt
- bolted the v-clamp using my legs to hold it up in place so it was all flush and clamped it to the turbo
- Add the exhaust in reverse. Some hangers have to be taken off the back of the exhuast and slid back so add support ropes to slide on, (You may want to order a cat to turbo gasket encase you mess it up, or a DPF to cat gasket if you only do the DPF delete. clear grease helped a lot at the slip joints and some twisting it's a real pain. I had to take the rear pipes off the hangers and used ropes under the exhaust so it could slide back enough to slip all the joints together. Just use your toes again for the DPF delete alone. Again, I regret not doing this simple DPF delete the first time, it was so much easier and saves hours. You will have higher EGTs and a little less flow, but its minor if you are staying with 4 inch pipe.
- Unplug EGR, EGR cooler valve, and sensors in that loop, and the clip under the intake horn, not on top though, that's the map sensor
- You can run it with the butterfly in place it will stay open, but failures sometimes happen and it closes. I have had mine in place since I deleted and posted this, just to busy lately with my winch, lights, etc upgrades.
- Delete the butterfly valve
Optional EGR and butterfly valve Deletes
- Directions here soon, For now I just left my butterfly valve.
Pictures after the install that correspond with steps above:
Under the hood coming out through the firewall boot
Hood boot.jpg
Out of the channel towards the horn. Note: It unclips from the bottom also. (See the 1" of wire)
https://goo.gl/photos/hf4guLCdTVkXbv4y9
Channel2.jpg
Follow this harness down and zip tie behind it as you go
https://goo.gl/photos/4QGdzkoh9iysHDBy9
Then down to the plug
https://goo.gl/photos/dPRm9z6qYaK8s68i7
IMG_20161023_180220.jpg
The wire going into the cab. View from the cab side
https://goo.gl/photos/cERJduAQoY4vrCbj7
IMG_20161023_180330.jpg
Under the dash - Zip tie towards the steering wheel and mount modules
https://goo.gl/photos/MzvQ9ckz7SwtQCqu7
Under dash.jpg
The wire to the Ultra can go up through the gap near the drivers side dash/window speaker. You will see the silver round magnet in this pic - which is me looking up under the dash. You can pop the grill off by using a credit card or license closest to the steering wheel and working left towards the pillar
https://goo.gl/photos/rYeTHwuFbc8GQTdS6
IMG_20161023_102620.jpg
It will pop out in the corner of the grill and isn't seen from the passenger seat. You really have to get your face up near the window to see in this corner. Also, using a razor you can whittle a little plastic away from the bottom edge of the corner to the grill so the wire and grill fit nicely.
https://goo.gl/photos/RL5dwaiAE6dgyWZ6A
IMG_20161023_102640.jpg
Out of the way spot if you don't want to get a Edge CTS pillar mount. Since this I have gone up the left side of the drivers dash and popped out behind my new edge pillar mount. It does look more professional and stock, but the front leading edge is the wierdest and one of the most visible spots of the pillar. I may add a pic someday or just go see the liinked thread above.
https://goo.gl/photos/V22xJx3uD7EV5GWj7
IMG_20161023_102657.jpg
RaceMe support
Support, FAQs, and errors section
http://www.raceme.eu/index.php?page=content&coID=11
Link to Ultra files
http://www.raceme.eu/index.php?page=product&info=11
A note on loading files to your micro SD card:
After my problems detailed in another thread, I suggest you update using a micro SD to SD card adapter. Also, years ago I looked at buying a Micro SD to USB adapter and all the device reviews on Amazon were not very good overall, they all mentioned they were very glitchy. I say this because after my first firmware upgrade I used the USB adapter and got an card unreadable/unusable error. I think we narrowed it down to either that or unchecking the "quick format" box when you format the drive. ALthough I did both at the same time vs trying one thing at a time to figure it out. I didn't have the time that day. On that note, I suggest you just delete the old files of the micro SD card after you save them to your PC, then add the new files to the card; many members have reported no issues with this approach vs formatting first and then copying files which has lead myself and others to have unreadable cards which then wastes time trying to format and figure out the glitch so it will work.
Place Micro SD card in USB card reader (now use micro to SD adapter if you can)
Link to Ultra's Firmware
(Note new VIN policy requires you to purchase more vin #s for another truck)
http://www.raceme.eu/index.php?page=content&coID=12
Unlock cable notes from RaceMe:
What to do with the unlock cable
Now with the OTF for the 2010-2015 trucks it must have the cable connected
On previous models you don't need it until we will release the same features like OTF programing and trans tuning for this models.
On all 2010up models you will get a CEL (check engine light) without a DTC if you remove dongle or unlock cable.
If you have some odd problems like a timing noise, repeat programming with full charged batteries.
If you cannot change the tire size in the ABS menu then upgrade to 1.1.11 firmware.
[B]
How to Change the background image as per Ratlin'HP
Google PSP wallpapers (as in play station). They are the same sized image.
When you find one you like:
- save the image as a .bmp in a folder on your computer
- Rename the picture as h_bkg.
- Copy the file with the same name from the SD card in the config folder, click and drag it into a backup folder you make
- Put the newly named pic you chose in the config folder on sd card.
- If you remove and replace the pic to change the image the checkers will be gone. You can always get the checkers image back with a download from Raceme.
Upgrading the Ultras' firmware later down the road.
UPDATE - THERE IS A NEW PROGRAM CALLED RACEME AGENT THAT AUTOMATICALLY UPDATES YOUR SD CARD WITH THE LATEST FIRMWARE. https://racemeofficial.com/latest-so...-release-news/
when you get to the webpage a link it will auto-pop-up for the program - so download it. On the Right will be a chat box and ask them for the 7zip link or google the website, then to unzip it, (winRar failed which is weird and they told me to use 7zip)
I'm going to try it out and I will add the how-to afterwards
My plan:
Install the program
Remove the SD card
Put it in my computer
Run the RaceMe Agent program (update after I opened it up once it was done installing it automatically found my microSD card and everything (note if it's not mentioned somewhere - use a sanddisc micro SD card adapter not a USB adapter the USB adapters are glitchy)
Slide it in the ultra with the truck OFF
touch the screen to update
then turn the key to ON (not start)
program the truck
Take it for a spin and try RT (real time)
IT WORKED - PRETTY COOL
OLD DIRECTIONS/INFO TO FIRMWARE UPGRADES:
How-to notes from Franz
- Download 7zip to extract file: http://www.7-zip.org/a/7z1514-x64.exe
- Install program
- Download latest update file from RaceME - Here is 1.1.11: http://www.raceme.eu/index.php?page=...1&dl_media=185
- Update delete old and copy new files to the card first. If you get an error then try Formatting SD card with FAT standard (this is no must) If you do format uncheck quick format.
- RaceME_Ultra_INIT_xxxx_xx_xx-xx_xx is now in Download folder
- Now do a mouse right click to file
- Choose 7zip in the menu
- Choose "Extract" and use the drive letter of your SD card like D: (it can also be E: or F
- Now insert the drive letter of your SD card into first line of the 7zip menu and remove the hook in next line, next line must be empty or 7zip will create a new folder on SD card and tuner can not find files.
- Click to OK now and file will be extracted to SD card
- As soon you are ready you must see the following files and folders on SD card
- config (folder)
- data (folder)
- RaceMe.rmu (file)
- RaceME.sgn (file)
- Also Custom (folder) was there for me
- No Key ON - Be sure Key is in OFF position
- Now insert SD card into tuner
- No Key ON - Be sure Key is in OFF position
- now start tuner by touching screen with finger
- Tuner will do a automatically update of itself
- After tuner is ready with updating itself do a KEY ON
- Now do a customized tuning with settings you had or want now to have the new files not only on tuner and SD card but also into trucks ECM.
Do the programming only with full batteries and if possible warm engine so grid heater is not coming on at a Key ON command. Using a good battery charger with flash option would be good to hold voltage between 13.2 and 13.5 volt for the time of programming.
Video from a pro on updating the Ultra
https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...r-RaceMe-Ultra
Notes from the pros about safety, programming etc
I can't remember who buy I think Double R said this, "Without headstuds I always tried to stay below 34 psi. The VGT is being pushed past its limits at 36 psi."
Originally Posted by RamIt
Update 9/1/17
WARNING
A word of caution after my experience, sorry for the rant, but I thought some details were needed and I don't have all the time in the world to edit this. As a caviate to this warning, I would still buy an Ultra/MM3, but rather from Double R since I know he has good customer service. I think he has a bit more sway than others do with RaceMe and could demand more from them as well. This warning should not be interpreted as a major negative to the tuner. Just a fact, a warning, and if you are careful you won't have a problem. - Be very gentle and precise with the connectors and connections. The Micro-USB connector is not as robust as a micro USB connector in an android phone. Granted, you really only need to plug the screen in once if you have all the parts the first time around. I can tell you that the micro usb does get put in upside down enough that its a known problem, know well enough that three people told me they have heard of it happening. I was also told that I am not the first person who has been told to go find someone else to fix it (no services for repair were even offered), that or pay something like $500 for a new screen.
Somehow I put the connector in upside down when adding the well known edge pillar mount to my truck. I was blamed for using a pillar mount vs the fact that the micro usb is not reinforced in anyway, nor is it up to spec to what they use in phones. I feel I can safely say that because I have never had a phone with an issue of a micro USB cable going in upside down - and so easily for that matter. RaceMe said it was my fualt I put it in upside down and because I used the Pillar it voided my warranty. I sent them pics of the pillar mount and everything showing that it fit fine. I can easily carve plastic, and I'm sure those who know of my upgrades, know I am competent (look at my inverter outlet build).
It was the wierdest warranty claim expierence of my life. I provided RaceMe with everything they requested, then they made me contact the sellerto have them do the warranty claim. I will not mention who the seller is,but that they are an authorized dealer that advertises on the major Cummins forums. My call went something like, "Hello my name is Stew and I bought a Raceme Ultra and delete package from you. I'm not sure why I'm supposed to call you, but I was told by RaceMe to contact you to make my warranty claim for my Raceme Ultra. Does this make sence to you?" They put me on hold and a few different people asked why I was calling, and finally got my number. An hour later someone called me back and I explained the situation. I sent the seller all the pics they asked for and said that I have never had a phone connector allow the wire to go in upside down and I was shocked. After a couple emails the seller called me back and said RaceMe won't warranty the screen becuase I installed it in an edge pillar mount, and because I put the wire in upside down. It was just wierd, I said, "this expierence was the equivilant of Samsung telling me to go in to Walmart to warranty my phone, and then having Walmart call me and tell me that they would not warranty my phone. I'm not mad at Raceme becuase I fixed it, but I feel bad for those who would not be able to, and were told to have someone else fix it or buy a new screen. I think Raceme Had me go through the Authorized seller beause they wanted deniability that they did not void my warranty, even if they did it threw someone else, no one can deny the emails though.
In the end I learned one thing - I would only buy from Double R from now on. This happened months ago, and this is not a bashing of RaceMe, nor am I demanding a screen, it's just the facts, so that I drive home the point - Be Careful, don't be an idiot like me and assume its a normal connector. Also, I suggest don't plug things in while they are zip tied up under the dash and double check the orientation of the connectors. Make sure you plug cables in without torque applied to the connections. If the metal connetor can easily deform and allow the wire to go in upside down with no more force than plugging in my cellphone, then it will bend from torque. I wa shiocked when I figured out what happened. Be precise and detailed and everything will work out fine. This is the only issue I see with the Ultra. None of the many phones I have owned would ever be able to last a day sitting in the summer sun then turn right on without a heat warning. It really is a remarkable piece of equiptment, again once it's plugged in, you will probably never have to do it again, and thus not really a problem if you are careful.
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