A Newbie's Guide To 4th Gen Cummins - Thread Summaries Knowledge Base

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A couple notes on this thread:

Most of this info is copy/pasted and not my opinions, but rather that of many people summarized after reading sometimes hundreds of pages on a subject. I did, however, make up some of the analogies and simplified examples that I used to explain things like deleting to my wife. For example "the DPF acts like a self-cleaning oven." It started as a thread to save articles, threads, parts, ideas and grew from there. Also, I usually try to take a little time off after gathering/reading all day, then come back and edit with a fresh brain


So please be patient with my proofing. This is always getting updates, and sometimes I run out of time to edit, then I add something new and forget to edit the last update from a few days before. Also, my Tapatalk app seems to be changing the formatting and symbols when I edit.

In order to not detract from the goal - Please PM me your changes, better examples, proofing, and anything else you think I should edit. I highly encourage anyone to post information that could be used for new sections especially links to threads, mod ideas, and more. I'll add a section and update the Table of Contents. Maybe it will become a good sticky someday


Please see section 1 for who, why, and what this thread is geared towards.
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Page 1

Table of Contents
The sections are numbered


Page 1/post 1

1.) Summary of Project
2.) Buying a Cummins - what you want, what to look for, recommendations, personal, and linked discussions
3.) Deleting, with and without tuning, To delete or not to delete
4.) Deleting thread - Why people do it, Pros and Cons and more
5.) EGR, throttle valve, and return-to-stock corrosion protection connector cover kits
6.) Diesel diagram for basic understanding
7.) Oil Analysis with no deletes
8.) Sims, basics, DIY for a couple bucks
9.) Exhaust specifics for delete and more
10.) Crank Case Filter delete (to protect your turbo)
Notes: Attached Excel 2007 "program" to compare pricing for different levels of upgrades

Page 2/ post 2

11.) What happens inside the cab after deleting, Codes (including an entire code list)
12.) Code readers and clearing codes,
13.) Bluetooth and wifi readers for tablets, phones, & computers - spend a couple dollars more for Bluetooth
14.) Tuner comparison chart and member's tuner knowledge base

a.) EFILive videos, tuners, auto cal aka space versus the V2, links
b.) RaceMe Ultra and MM3
c.) H&S
d.) Smarty Jr Videos, shared files, links
e.) Others (I didn't add much after finding the tuners above)

15.) Monitors and gauges
16.) Tires that are bigger, ok for stock lift, ok for gas mileage
17.) Fuel filter system to avoid replacing the $80 fuel filter every 15k miles
18.) What are Studs, why you need them, and how much they are

Page 3/ post 3

19.) Stereo stuff - links, installation, cameras, routing, electric, steering controls, mic
20.) All about Oil and changes
21.) Replacement filter numbers & cross reference info
22.) How to - EGR valve and cooler cleaning & video
23.) Small upgrades, mods, and easy fixes

a.) The notorious Manual 4x4 transfer case shift lever rod/linkage loose/missing - upgrade/fix
b.) Upper glove box conversion
c.) $61 plug and play remote starter module - works with OEM fobs without a start button (lock 3x)
d.) Overhead Console installs
e.) Aux switches using OEM AUX button panel
f.) Death wobble fixes
g.) Heated seats
h.)Add a Ford fold away bed extender (it has no emblems)
i.) 110v outlet w inverter upgrade
j.) Rear LED lights without a hole in your bumper
k.) grid heater bolt failure of death

24.) Turbo cleaning, parts, upgrades, tips, videos and links
25.) Video playlist - Top 10 mods - basic info about mods for ideas
26.) Cold air intake & adding just the rib scoop for only $99

a.) S&B - Videos, Install, results, etc
b.)aFe - Videos, Install, results, etc
c.)Banks - Videos, Install, results, etc

27.) HID lights PROJECTOR/wiring/etc, This WON'T blast people = legal style
28.) On Board Air ideas, mods, and examples.
29.) Tips and tricks to making a post on the forum
30.) A valuable thread about second gens for cool ideas
31.) All about differential lockers
32.) Roof rack - encase you need more storage room.
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Section 1

Summary of Project/Thread
You can skip this if you want to get straight to the info this just explains the goal

What this thread is about:

I see a lot of the same questions throughout threads from people who are new to Diesel. They are the same questions I had/have. Rather than read hundreds of pages of threads like I did, I am summarizing them as I go. Then I have a place to go back to when I want to upgrade something or need a link to a part, and also to help other newbies in the process. I will continue to update as I go, it will not always be edited especially when I post stuff from my cell to edit later. Maybe it will become a good sticky some day.

Why is this good for you:

So far as of week 2, I have read 70+pages on tuners, 50+ pages on DPF deleting, countless pages on tires, and probably a solid week of reading all day in the past two weeks; I work 12 hr shifts and get 4 days off a week. To keep this thread size down I tried not to add things that failed - like the dozen things that failed when trying to delete the 2012 EGR function or device without a tuner.

So one of the first things you see in a lot of posts is to delete this, or delete that..............hu? Did he just say what I thought he said ??? So let's start there. UPDATE You have to buy a Cummins first so things have changed and we'll start there


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Section 2

UPDATE

Buying a Cummins

The difference between a 2500 and 3500 is an extra leaf in the leaf springs. Airbags or wedges to use the overload spring can help get you closer to a 3500. The next step would be a dually for weight/towing issues.

The 6.7-liter 4th generation categories are 2010-2012 and 2013+


See what gears, packages, and options came on the truck you are looking at. As of 2018 these links weren't working, but just encase try them or google Ram VIN build sheet lookup
Vin# lookup link: https://dodge.custhelp.com/app/dodge...cm0yTTZfdG0%3D
another link:https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...20Contact%20Usand another: http://You can also try www.dodge.com and click on the "For Owners" area. At that point go to the "About my Vehicle" area and fill in the questions asked about your vehicle. This will provide you with any updates and information regarding recalls and TSB's associated with the vehicle.

Pricing and options -after owning an ST here is my opinion and my best advice I can give anyone who wants to save money, or isn't afraid of a little elbow grease - why you want an ST (but not necessarily a base ST model)

There seem to be hundreds of different models because of all the different packages. It cost me $1000 for a leather install. So get an ST if you don't need a sunroof, wood trim, power adjust floor pedals, heated/cooled seats, power seats (harnesses are there for future seat upgrades), no rear slider window, AC/heat dials vs a digital screen set to exact temp number, manual 4x4 vs push button (note: manual gives you a nice floor consolewith drink holders- that many people Upgrade their shifter down to, just for drink holders), and a few other electrical things like puddle lights on your mirrors. The ST with a $1000 Katzkin leather kit can get you most of what you want and look more modern than the wood trim that comes with models that have leather from the factory. I learned all of this because a friend had an ST on his lot and I spent a lot of time researching Models. It had chrome bumpers/grill and more which threw me off. I thought ST was plastic bumpers, no power windows, no heated mirrors, and other basic stuff. The VIN lookup confirmed it was an ST with Cold and Appearance packages which gave me electric mirrors/windows, chrome, and it had manual 4x4 along w other options, and they 2500s have remote start hardware which you can read how to use for $60.

The ST model will set the pricing for the truck in Nada or KBB. Owners/Dealers don't know about the appearance, cold, etc packages much, and NADA and KBB don't really offer all of them as an option - maybe power windows. So this is your area for savings. Just upgrade to the truck to what you want. I had leather added to the cost of the loan and most dealer will do this for about a $1000.

Few easy upgrades for the ST


Putting Nav in an ST:
You can add a Nav system for a fraction of the Ram unit if you like DIY upgrading. I added the App Radio 3 to my truck for phone mirroring with an app called "AR Unchained reloaded" and I can use google maps or a few other offline nav apps when I'm out of cell tower service. I got a camera kit that came with a drill bit and even the tailgate handle has a outline on the back of it for where to drill (it must be the mold plug they insert for non-camera handles. Then there is no need to update your nav with new maps every year at a very big cost to you. For a sub you can get a plug and play kicker hideaway that fits under the drivers seat. It has the added benefit of keeping your rear seat storage, some bass without pissing off your neighbors, and it's enough that my wife asks me to turn it down when she is in the truck. I added the optional volume knob for the sub in a hidden spot so it all looks OEM but sounds better. The stock door speakers are great for me and can get very loud, but I'm not an audiophile.

Putting leather in an ST
I paid $1000 to install a Katzkin kit, it's what the dealerships use, and my friend/dealer put them in for me. Update after 2 years: They look great, no major wear and with my higher truck I slide down off the seats everyday which has to be rough on them. If they give you a higher price then tell them you want the old seat coverings back, that way you can sell them on Ebay for $300+ because believe me they are going to sell those OEM seat covers, especially good looking ones like mine were.

If you like to work on stuff and do your own upgrades then see sections below. Most of the harnesses are there for a lot of upgrades. Getting a Cummins with leather from the factory was going to cost me minimum about $14,000 more than the ST and they all had way more miles, so save yourself 13k and add leather to an ST.

Buying a 2010 or 2011 will save you the need to buy a tuner if you want to delete the DPF and EGR system. You can read below what that is. Note: 2012+ trucks need a tuner to delete. Buying a 2010 or '11 will save you about $1000 on a tuner if you want to delete.
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Section 3

Delete Basics

Delete - Removing a mechanical device, and/or using software to delete the use of a device. You can delete/remove the muffler and/or you change the software on the ECM so that it doesn't use sensors in the exhaust or other parts to bypass functions, thus tunes on a tuner device can also be deleting.


A Tuner can be a person who makes tunes or a device that has those tunes on it, so hopefully, the term doesn't confuse you later.


Thread about Pros and Cons about deleting - http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4t...ml#post6107860

Professional article mentioning types of damage from not deleting:
http://reviewdieselparts.com/review/what-is-egr-delete/

A few more pros and cons found throughout threads:
This is info often discussed and asked about, so here are some of their points

1.)Con -How do you put it back in for emissions testing? -This requires bolting on the exhaust every year for the day you go do the emissions test.

2.) Con - If you delete the EGR hardware you will need to bolt it back on for emissions testing. Personally, I was thinking you could also bolt the EGR back down with a sheet metal plate insert to block the valve off, but make it easy to change for emissions testing later.

3.)Pro - Many members mention cleaner oil, and that fewer oil change lights come on- the oil change indicator doesn't come on every 2500 miles due to soot in your oil. Less frequent oil changes leads to less carbon footprint. Some discuss which has a higher carbon footprint, gallons of oil, toxic waste after recycling/cleaning the oil, transportation of the extra oil needed, vs no emissions equipment and visible soot? Next a few words on that, because you may be wondering a few things about soot.

The DPF is actually just filtering the soot while we drive, and also during the emissions test thus it's a delayed release of the particulate that legally cheats on the emissions test. . Once the DPF starts getting clogged it goes through a Regen and is cooked/broken down like a self-cleaning oven. This is why you will not pass an emissions test during a Regen cycle. The Co2 ends up in the skies anyway as a finer particle. Carbon is carbon you can't get rid of the molecule, it has to come out eventually, just in a smaller form. https://van.physics.illinois.edu/qa/listing.php?id=1548

Update: A few years after compiling this thread I came across this video tonight (2/22/2019) of a school bus mechanic shop manager who discusses how the DPF system works and how it's "smoke and mirrors" and makes the whole environment worse. Notice how he also discusses oil, soot still being put in the air, and they go on to discuss it's just putting the soot that would have fallen to the ground and trapping it in the DPF and creating a more concentrated form. This form of the soot either is being broken down smaller and put back in the air, oil, or some mechanic's garage when he cleans the DPF vs falling to the ground as a larger particulate. I thought it would fit well in this part of the thread vs just reading it.

Pro With no soot being recirculated via the cooler and EGR back into the intake, the air in the combustion chamber is cleaner. The truck then uses less gas, along with injector timing changes, and other things - like the DPF you don't need are removed, and less gas is needed to compensate for those issues or parts. Then you have fewer issues with soot clogging up your, sensors, turbo, and oil. Why have an air filter if you are just going to put soot back into the intake. Less carbon foot print for new parts ruined by soot recirculation. But wait that soot contains gas to be reburned and used - well it wouldn't have as much gas if the amount injected was less, timing such as post ignition event and Regens self-cleans changed, and other such factors are changed. Hu? A lot of those terms will make sense soon.

5.) Pro - If you can tune a leaner intake via turbo pulsing, injector usage, and other factors, how does waste and the real carbon footprint compare to stock in the long run - Members report up to 22mpg and as many have pointed out that almost half the gas for the same miles driven is a lot less Co2.
200k miles /22 mpg = 9,090 gallons of diesel at 2.50 a gallon = $22,727 spent on fuel
200k miles /14 mpg = 14,285 gallons of diesel at 2.50 a gallon = $35,714 spent on fuel
Thus 14,285 gal - 9090 gal = 5195 x 2.50 a gallon = 5195 gallons or $12,987 of extra fuel wasted

My opinion - The EPA has the emissions testing as an institution/industry as a way to limit Co2 and other harmful molecules/chemicals from entering the ozone, etc. The tests don't take into consideration any of the excess waste and thus the overall carbon footprint mentioned above.

I don't have DEF on my 2012 truck. I haven't read threads on DEF, from the few things I saw it changes the chemical composition of the molecules to Urea or uses Urea to change the composition to pass emissions. I will update this if someone will post an explanation and thread for further reading. Update - http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/exp...asic-training/

Read more to understand what the basics of a DPF are and how soot is recirculated

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Section 4

Delete on the cheap thread - Below is a summary of the 50 pages after 1st post:

“Delete on the cheap” does not require a tuner, some dealers will honor the warranty, It lets the motor breath for cheap. It just stops wasted gas/heat being dumped into the exhaust. If you can unplug your EGR (2010 & 2011 trucks) then you only get fresh air in your cylinder vs recycled soot.

’10-’12 6.7L Cummins “Delete on the cheap” thread with the parts list & links in the first post: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4t...ing-cheap.html



Answers to the rest of the questions I had after reading the first post:

Regen - regeration or cooking of the soot in the DPF “filter” = lots of fuel and heat/energy being wasted into the exhaust.


Post Ignition event – separate but similar to a Regen type effect - wasted fuel is used to heat the exhaust during acceleration etc.


EGTs Exhaust Gas Temperature - "few things will damage or kill a diesel engine faster than excessive exhaust gas temperatures" Banks Tech Article Banks Power | Why EGT is Important


EGR - exhaust gas re-circulation – takes exhaust soot made by a piston firing and recirculates it back into the cylinder with new gas so the soot can be broken down more before it makes it to the DPF. Basically, it's making the air dirty in the combustion chamber. See this loop in the diagram pic below


The exhaust delete options from the top down:

Cat or catalytic converter (aka the down pipe), from the turbo, towards the back down to the horizontal exhaust section under the truck That's why aftermarket systems have "turbo back" in the title. The cat can also be removed for a much louder exhaust, but it will smell more like sulfur as well. With the cat left in, the exhaust is closer to stock sound levels if you don’t want people/cops to notice you, and you won’t smell like rotten eggs Page 47 post #559 shows the muffler as mostly just a straight through pipe. People state in their experience it just removes drone sound made above 2000 RPM, thus the cat is the primary sound deadening device in the system, not the muffler.[/I]

Nox container that plays a role in the soot cooking is the first chamber in the horizontal exhaust.

DPF container/"filter" on the exhaust. Think of it as a self-cleaning oven, fed by more gas creating more heat (EGTs) from the Regen and/or Post Ignition Event. As soot travels from the cylinder to your tailpipe it gets caught in the filter inside the DPF and later it is self-cleaned once it gets clogged enough.


Muffler The third chamber furthest to the rear
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Section 5

Unplugging the EGR
so soot is not recirculated:

2010 & 2011 trucks: You won’t get a check engine light aka CEL from unplugging the EGR. You can leave it in or get the EGR delete kit and throttle valve delete kit (or take out the butterfly valve.)

2012 trucks: There is no non-tuner delete trick - people have tried and failed by removing the butterfly, removing EGR piston, removing the actuator, unplugging, making butterfly valves with holes in them for more clean air mixture, removing the actuator for butterfly valve, unplug and delete codes, disconnect the pipe coming from the exhaust that feeds the soot back to the air intake - Nothing worked and all attempts lead to derate and then limp mode, or bucking of the truck. Simply put the system is too smart/sensitive. Believe me, I have a 2012 and have read every thread on the subject spending over 12 hours reading to find answers to just that subject to avoid spending money on a tuner right away.

For '11 &'12 or tuned '12 trucks:
Sinister EGR delete kit $200: https://www.amazon.com/Sinister-Dies...sortBy=helpful

or

Evergreen EGR kit $92: https://www.amazon.com/Evergreen-EGR...sortBy=helpful

Throttle valve delete: https://www.amazon.com/Sinister-Dies...sortBy=helpful

For kit's without the coolant hose and a plug follow these directions to make the coolant system work up there too.


For throttle bodies

Take the butterfly valve out and unplug the sensor. Use a heat gun to unscrew the screws, or they will eventually snap since the back side is peened so they don't unscrew, some have twisted the head off and unscrewed them from the back side that is peened if the head broke off. Mark the top and front of the butterfly in the throttle so You know which way is which later down the road.

Sinister kit: https://www.amazon.com/Sinister-Dies...07850P7REAPCY7

Red kit: https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Throttl...+throttle+body

Otherwise, add an intake horn - http://www.rollinsmokediesel.com/cat...take_horns.cfm

Connector corrosion covers:
Shabby '7.5-'09 plugs only missing one cover for '10 to '12 trucks (the throttle one) - http://www.8lugtruckgear.com/Cummins...-Set-p539.html

Connectors to unplug
EGR (drivers side)
Cooler (Passenger side)
Throttle valve (drivers side below EGR, may want to do it from under the truck)
Crossover tube sensor drivers side in front of EGR)
Exhaust connectors
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Section 6

Diagram:

Notice the EGR cooler and EGR valve, then how the exhaust is rerouted from the right side of the cylinder up and back to the left side of the cylinder if the EGR valve is open. Now put an oven to the left of the muffler, then pour gas/heat out of the cylinder into the exhaust down to the oven. The oven then self-cleans like a home oven using very high heat when it gets clogged up.

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Section 7

Pre-delete oil analysis while using the stock system:

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/20...ml#post7576537 Stock burns more fuel and you have to change the oil twice as often with emission equipment, but you get a cleaner tailpipe. My opinion: It seems oil vs smoke would be the clincher in that fight of which has a larger carbon footprint. I saw a documentary on Netflix that said methane from livestock is actually the largest polluter of greenhouse gasses, thus our trucks don’t make a dent compared to animals. Now don't get me wrong here....Before you slay me, I’m not vegetarian at all, and in fact, I did a meat with low carb veggie diet only, for about a year and lost 60 lbs; but I digress.
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Section 8

Sims and sensors:

Sims: (100ohm not 300) can be plugged into the delete pipe to fool the ECM(computer) into thinking the DPF /“oven” is hot enough and doesn’t need more gas to Regen/”self-clean” thus fuel is saved.

Bungs – Threaded female ports on the exhaust for the 02 sensors.

Plugs – fill the other bung ports not used

Thread - DIY sims for a couple bucks make sure you make 100-ohm ones: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6-...udget-how.html

$69 sims: Shibby Engineering 2010EGT100 100 Ohm EGT Sims or call SDP

Sims just plug in. Dielectric grease in these connectors will help with recalls of corrosion at this location with the real sensors. They have a 2 pin electrical connectors.

Sim Basics thread if you want to learn more: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6-...im-basics.html
Note: With a tuner, the new software in the ECM won’t need the sims.

2 x O2 sensors one is located above the cat, reached behind the turbo, another will go in the horizontal delete pipe below. Move the old sensors to the new exhaust. They have a 6 pin plug electrical connector, that goes into the 18mmx1.5 bung threads

Add a little dielectric grease in the connectors for this know corrosion failure spot

Not really a sensor - but the pressure tubes going to the transmission get taken off and no caps are needed on the transmission. These tell the ECU that the DPF is getting clogged up and it’s time to Regenerate. That's because as the DPF clogs air/exhaust pressure builds up because it can't go through the clogged filter.

Pics of sensors, trans tubes locations, Post #336: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4t...-cheap-28.html
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section 9

Exhuast specifics for delete and more
Now that you know all the pieces of the puzzle Here are parts, and DIY

No you can’t just add sims to the stock exhaust because the DPF/oven will get clogged up without being cleaned/Regenerated

•You can take out the DPF & NOX guts but then you have to pay a lot to return to stock when you sell the truck

Stainless mufflers are made from Stainless steel grade 419 which will have surface rust, but not all the way through. Use this in high salt environments

Hanger the metal rod that comes off the side of the exhaust tubes that hold it up.

Flopro835 removes the cat (down pipe), Nox, and DPF (horizontal pipe): Rollin Smoke Diesel. 2007.5-2012 Flo Pro 6.7 DPF Delete/Downpipe Kit (click for price)

Just the horizontal delete pipe no cat delete: Rollin Smoke Diesel. 2007.5-2012 Flo Pro 6.7 Off-Road Pipe (click for the price) Call RSD to verify there is a bung port otherwise just go get a $20 53” piece of pipe from a muffler store and have them weld on a bung in five minutes if you don’t have a welder.
Removes Nox and DPF only and keeps Cat thus making it quieter than with a downpipe delete.

Delete Pipe Notes:

A delete pipe is a 4" normal exhaust pipe that takes the place of the Cat down the pipe, and/or DPF/NOX horizontal pipe, and/or the muffler.

The DPF/NOX delete pipe is 4" diameter and 53 inches long it's about $20 at a muffler shop, but you need to tap ports or weld bung ports (unless you get a tuner) and add a hanger. Note: You can get a $80 welder at harbor freight and watch youtube to learn how to weld or use muffler clamps.

If you cut in the middle between the three bolt flange located at the bottom of the Cat and the Nox, some guys have just used a exhaust clamp or welded the 53" pipe to the stub. A muffler shop can also weld on the flange and hanger in about 20 to 30 minutes.
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Section 10

Crank Case Filter delete

4 feet of 3/4 heater hose and a package of bypass caps from Autozone, or do the elbow and filter option in thread 2.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4th-gen-performance-parts-discussion/484230-CCV-delete-how-pics.html
or
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/07...er-delete.html
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Now on to the stuff in the cab (see next thread/page)

Notes:
I made this Excel 2007 file to compare pricing for different levels of upgrades for my wife. No pricing for packages is included yet. Here are the google docs link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0e...ew?usp=sharing

End Page 1 (to help keep my place when editing everything)

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Page 2
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Section 11

Stuff that happens inside the cab
What happens after you delete
Check Engine lights, codes, etc:

2010 & 2011 trucks are lucky with no CEL, derate, or limp mode from unplugging the EGR.

2012+ require a tuner to change ECM settings to unplug the EGR and DPF system.

quick note on 2012 trucks if you unplug the EGR you will get a CEL and you will eventually derate/ “loose power” in the higher RPMs until it’s fixed. Some people with a 2012 just drive around with the motor derated so in the higher RPMs it’s harder to pass on hills, and at higher speeds etc, but getting up to speed is not an issue. Perhaps this also helps with gas mileage???


Clear derate/codes after plugging the EGR back in:
Some motors in 2012 will clear the derate if your clear the codes = turn on the truck, push the throttle down three times and then turn off the truck. One person reports requiring the dealer to reset the ecm.However some reported limp mode a full major decrease in power which would require ECM reset


After EGR mechanical or digital delete:
People reported 18-21mgs and cleaner/soot-free oil changes.




Three codes can show up:
These codes say that the DPF is too hot thus no fuel is used to heat the exhaust
•P21B4 - NOX ABSORBER – OVER TEMPERATURE
•P1484 - CATALYST OVERHEAT DETECTION
•P244D - EXHAUST TEMP TOO HIGH FOR PARTICULATE FILTER RegenERATION - BANK 1


Those are all "good" codes. You can just clear them with the $20 code reader at the top of the reader list below.

The entire Trouble Codes Master List/PDF:


http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/im...le%20Codes.pdf

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Section 12

Wired Code readers/clearing options
(wired style if you don't have a smart phone or tablet, if you do, then skip this section and get bluetooth)

Maxi Scan: - https://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiSca...sortBy=helpful
Price $16
Read: Yes
Delete: Yes
Live Monitor: No
OBDII & CAN: Yes
Notes: Many people have used this exact model for the "cheap delete"




ScanguageII: https://www.amazon.com/ScanGauge-SGI...sortBy=helpful
Price $158
Read: Yes
Delete: Yes
Live Monitor: YES
OBDII & CAN: yes
Notes: One guy said he used this






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Section 13

Bluetooth and Wifi OBDII AND CAN readers/deleters
To read, monitor, and delete using Torque app, etc apps, with Iphones, Androids, or PCs by reading OBDII & CAN. The benefits are, internet lookup in the car, takes seconds to save a log for future reference at work/home/etc and you can always look at old ones, monitors your system in real time, and more.

$22 Bafx (Android Only): Does OBDII & CAN. I already had this from a previous truck. You can't leave it connected more than 24-48 hours or it requires adding a switch- see amazon reviews for fix of the LED draining your battery. I was able to scan and delete errors, I could read a lot of stuff with this such as boost, rpm, speed, temp, etc) = https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products...sortBy=helpful
I love this BAFX, and when using toque app you have GPS speed also - if you get larger tires and the dealer option can't go that big and you don't have a tuner yet. The layout is just like the dealer apps they have and diagnosing is pretty easy - it even has a internet code lookup option and code log to save it for when you get to a computer

$27 Veepeak (Iphone & Android): Does CAN & OBDII and has a power button (can’t slowly drain your battery if you turn it off vs unplugging the BAFX) https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scann...sortBy=helpful

$20 Foseal: This may work for iphones: https://www.amazon.com/Foseal-Scanne...sortBy=helpful








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Section 14

Tuners in General


I have to have a tuner to delete the EGR in my 2012 (and all newer trucks)
So here is what I have learned so far, and the best info I have found.
Some new tuner devices do not delete, so you may need to buy an older version, see what version you are buying and it's options.

Note: Due to firewalls in the factory ECM, you will be REQUIRED to first unlock the ECM. For 2013+ trucks at the present time, the only way to do this is using a Bully Dog GT (part number 40420) tuner and the Bully Dog Unlock Cable -As per PPEI and Dales superstore clerk. UPDATE: The Raceme Ultra may unlock 2013+ it does for 2012-.



General features to look for:
On-the-fly: Tuner option can change tunes why driving.
PID list: On-board diagnostics Parameter ID, for adjustments
Custom or mass market tunes and future options if you upgrade a major compnent and the mass market tunes won't work for you
Capability to unlock the ECU
Device comes with tunes for deletes or stock?
How much for custom tune adjustments for tires/MPH, transmission tuning, or other upgrades
How much for a new set of tunes if adding racing upgrades to your truck after you already bought custom tunes?
What if you Dino later down the road and something doesn't look right? How much to adjust, and can you adjust it


Full Delete packages: look here after reading below about EFI live and the RaceMe Ultra/ warp tuning
https://freedomdieselperformance.com...sc&order=price
or
http://dalessuperstore.com/c-1034283...e-cummins.html

EFILive
Videos, Autocal vs the V2, CSP5 switch, links

Note: The more I learn, the more I realize you have three choices for the safest options - an old H&S, Raceme (Ultra or MM3), or EFI Live device (V2 or Autocal) with custom tunes. The one size fits all are not AS good if you make upgrades (gen 2 turbo swap after holset dies, etc) and the tunes cannot be changed later, thus the tuners mentioned above are the primary options. I linked a lot from ATP's site because they had an extensive list of videos to get a feel for EFIlive and also had prices for many options as low as $539 for a single tune, ( update note: which they now do not advertise for 2012+). I'm sure others will provide competitive options as well. Don't forget to ask the site sponsors and active members that are tuners. As always, I will update info & examples, as I receive it, especially on lower priced items/ good deals.



Devices:

EFI Live devices and tuning

Autocal aka Spade, Mercenary, etc: EFI Live Autocal really does seem like the best all around device that can unlock, run tunes, and data log. You could not run a tune from a different company with this device bc the autocal can only be loaded with tunes made by the original company. It also does not show realtime info like EGTs from a pyro so you would also need gauges or Edge CTS etc device to monitor. The custom tunes by some companies will have tuning integrated for your transmission Anarchy does it for $299.

The V2 device will allow you to tweak tunes if you ever want to, and to add tunes from different tuners/companies.


CSP5 switch: For fast on-the-fly switching


EFI explained by Trucktrend - http://www.trucktrend.com/features/1...filive-tuning/


Lots of vids on EFI - https://www.youtube.com/user/ATPTrucks/playlists


COSTS:


$539 - Autocal w 1 tune to delete - http://atptrucks.com/efilive-autocal...ngle-tune.html
$719 - Autocal w 5 tunes - http://atptrucks.com/efi-live-autoca...5-9l-6-7l.html
$947 - V2 with 5 tunes - http://atptrucks.com/efilive-flashsc...atptrucks.html
$65 - CSP5 switch: http://atptrucks.com/efilive-cummins...le-tuning.html

RaceMe ultra device, monitoring, and warp tuning

I chose this tuner because it has pyro/EGT monitoring capabilities for about the same cost as EFI live w trans tuning. It's future proof for me as in I can also add custom tunes from multiple people vs the Autocal. This option is great especially if OEM parts fail like and turbo and transmission and I want to upgrade them and the tuning. I had a turbo fail at 16k miles, so I don't want to be stuck with a limited tuner which is also why I liked the V2 as an tuner. It seems like a lot more money, but after you buy trans tuning for EFI Live you only are paying a couple hundred more to get the option for a monitor to read OBDII stuff and pyro, which save the costs of gauges or a edge CTS. The zero hp option with transmission tuning was exactly what I was looking for, I can just delete the DPF and egr system, and have the safest possible setup for my transmission and engine. I'm going for 400k miles and for now, zero increase in HP sounds safe. This device cannot work unless you do the DPF delete, otherwise it will clog the DPF/egr system, but the butterfly can be left in & unplugged. It reads your truck and comes with free tunes you can use until you want custom tuning. Double R deisel can do the "Warp" custom tuning and is a site sponsor, so support him.

Details from RaceMe's website:
For stock transmissions. (Not for Aisin equipped trucks) Only for 2010-2016 models.

Complete means:
1) Raised line pressure in all Fwd gears AND during the shifts.
2) Increased shift firmness for less slip in the clutches.
3) Changed shift points at WOT in all gears @ 3000 RPM.
4) 6th gear unlock and downshift to avoid the massive torque and make the transmission last longer.
For Aftermarket transmissions (Not for Aisin equipped trucks) Only for 2010-2016 PU models.
1) Linepressure 225psi
2) Line pressure rises faster now with altered throttle position value to get the higher pressure before the high torque is entering transmission.
Modern Design with Touch Screen Functionality And Range Of Gauge Monitoring Options
Includes Necessary Hardware For Unlocking 2013+ Which Is Done As Part Of The Program
No Special / Complicated Unlock Procedures Required, Connect Necessary Cables And Install Tune!


Tune Uses Latest High Speed Transfer, Usually Takes 7 Minutes Max!


Monitor Comes With User Defined Layouts/ Dashboard
Memory Supports All Files From 2007 And On
No Reloading / Changing Files Required For Installing On Different Year Models, All Inclusive
Updateable Free via Latest Software Downloads From Our Website
Updatable With Customer Friendly Update Using MicroSD, Simply Load The Update File Onto Card, Reinsert And Update Unit
Disables Entire EGR By Turning Off Without Removing Any Parts ( Hard Part Removal Recommended And Supports Removal Of Entire EGR System Including Valve And Cooler With No Trouble Codes)
Read / Clear Diagnostic Trouble Codes
Disable The DPF/DEF System And ALL Related Sensors – No Sensors Required To Be Plugged In Or Installed In Race Exhaust
(DPF = Diesel Particulate Filter)


(DEF = Diesel Exhaust Fluid. – also referred to as Urea)


Late Injection Events (Post Injection) Is Disabled On All Tunes
Speedometer Recalibration For Use Of Non-Stock size tires
Remove / Adjust Top Speed Limiter
Tune engine HP increases of up to 200HP in 5 stages (NOTE: Power increase maximum differs between model years)
EGT sensor optional accessory to monitor accurately up to 2200 degrees F
Stage 0 has stock power without DEF/DPF/EGR and no options, simply stock for the careful user
End User Customizable Injection Timing For Better Economy And/Or Power
Special ECM Recovery Functions In The Event Of A Programming Sequence Being Disrupted Or Ending With A Fault
· Warning Use the tuner only after removing DPF System Warning

Ultra settings/ Notes from tuners, a section in progress
Franz says that using a higher setting with a soft foot on the pedal will give you better MPG. I'm clarifying this a little
RT menu at the top of the screen is how you change Real Time aka on-the-fly tuning


My MPG changes using the dash numbers/estimate, on flat land, with cruise control set - for comparison so that as many variables that I can control are not changed, ratherjust the tuning options. Note: While the dash estimate is often called the lie-o-meter if I stick with that constant then atleast we would know a percentage increase or decrease for comparison. The truck: 2012 automatic, EGR & DFP delete w downpipe and DPF pipe, and bed cover.


100% Stock setup no deletes or tuner @ 70mph = 18mpg

Ultra 60HP @ 45mph is 1300 to 1400rpm (5th gear) = mpg
Ultra 60HP @ 50mph is 1700rpm (5th gear) = 21.5 mpg
Ultra 60HP @ 60mph is rpm ( th gear) = mpg
Ultra 60HP @ 70mph is rpm (6th gear) = mpg


page 51 notes: https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...-Tuning/page51

1. Strongly think about head studs as you approach the 200HP setting and run 29* timing or more.
2. 120HP with 29* timing is kinda border line. Run 23* timing with the 120 HP setting to be safer
   

Vehicle Installation and Ultra firmware upgrades and more - here is the link to my detailed notes w/ pics when I Installed the Ultra and updates since then: https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...283#post70283

H&S

Needs to be unlocked, and programed with custom tuning. H&S is no longer in business so stock tuning on the device will not be updated with things like transmission tuning vs stock tuning with the RaceMe Ultra. It's is a good device and has a lot of options for programming from tuners. I will update this if someone sends me info or if I come across something interesting. I just wasn't interested in it for the price vs what you get, sorry.

"H&S tuned trucks, blew a fair share of head gaskets. Partly because of their aggressive turbo tuning option that raised boost and drive pressures super high at a low engine rpm which in turn jacked cylinder pressures super high which is what blows head gaskets. The other part where guys who used the defueling features of the old mini maxx tuners which would pull fuel out but leave timing still jacked up high...which causes high cylinder pressures as well."

Other Tuners/tunes

2.)$495 SMarty Jr Videos, shared member files, links


Note: only used version can be used to add files and I read the ME can as well.


http://ktperformance.net/i-8434232-m...l-cummins.html

Tuner knowledge base:

raceME,
Model: RaceME DPF/EGR Delete Tuner
Price: $899
Preloaded tunes: 4 Are the good, dangerous, just right
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: ?
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: 4 tunes, 67guzzler switched H&S for this, post ignition, speedo adjust
Cons: ?
Links


raceME
Model: RaceME Ultra
Price: $1500
Preloaded tunes: 10
Unlocks ECM: Not hard unlock for '13-'16, not sure about 2010-12
Can add custom tunes later on: "will be capable of utilizing a custom tuning platform"
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: Custom, can change tune while driving,
Cons: Cost
Links: https://freedomdieselperformance.com...8ykaAhj48P8HAQ
RaceME Ultra Update and Upcoming RaceME Custom Tuning: https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...-Custom-Tuning


MADS Smarty Jr
Model: Smarty Jr
Price: $495
Preloaded tunes:4
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: No
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:? Only old used ones delete the EGR or DPF. new ones don't
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: simple
Cons: limited, new ones don't delete EGR


Smarty ME
Models known to work
Price:
Preloaded tunes:
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: ?
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros:
Cons:


Bully dog - https://www.amazon.com/Bully-Dog-404...mins+bully+dog
Model: GT platinum
Price: $595
Preloaded tunes:
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: ?
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:? No EGR delete
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: ?
Cons: ?
Notes need a cable
Bully dog unlock cable https://www.amazon.com/Bully-Dog-422...S3PWSTAG5GXVAJ




H&S
Model H&S mini Maxx
Price:
Preloaded tunes: 4
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: Yes
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: Preloaded with 4 tunes, can add custom tunes later
Cons: Price, locked out from adding more? No
Notes:


Anarchy 2010-2012 6.7 CUMMINS
Model Mercenary Delete Autocal
Price: $959
Preloaded tunes: 5 tunes
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: Yes
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:?
Pros: Preloaded with 5 tunes, custom later, can do trans tune
Cons: Price, Require CSP5 switch for "on the fly"
Notes: transmission tune shifts transmission faster between gears


Motor Ops
Model: EFI Live
Price:
Preloaded tunes: 5
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: Yes
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: Preloaded with 4 tunes, can add custom tunes later
Cons: On the fly,
Notes:




XRT
Model: XRT Pro
Price:
Preloaded tunes: 4
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: Yes
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: Preloaded with 4 tunes, can add custom tunes later
Cons: Price, locked out from adding more? No
Notes:


Edge
Model: Edge Juice CTS2 (with attitude $979)
Price: $679 (with attitude $979)
Preloaded tunes: 5
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: Yes
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc: speedometer
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: Preloaded, monitors a lot of extra sensors you can add
Cons: Price, locked out from adding more? No
Notes:


Gearbox Z
Model:
Price:
Preloaded tunes: 4
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: Yes
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: Preloaded with 4 tunes, can add custom tunes later
Cons: Price, locked out from adding more? No
Notes:


Duramileage
Model: ***-0713DC
Price:$530
Preloaded tunes: 1
Unlocks ECM: No - no footprint on the ECM
Can add custom tunes later on: No
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc: No
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen: States +3 to 5 mpg
Pros: plug and play to fuel rail
Cons: weak all around
Notes:




Random notes to add above


XDP also has good deals especially With the DIESEL10 online coupon.



Not so cheap delete of everything = $1064 or $965
$200 for the Sinister EGR delete (plates tubes, bolts etc)
$150 for the Delete pipe w/o bungs
$570 for the tuner.
$45 Glacier CCV delete kit (9000 miles and turbo was already oily!)
$99 EGR Butterfly tube replacement tube from Sinister Diesel for. (or free just take the screws out of the butterfly)



__________________________________________________ ____________
Section 15

Monitors/ gauges

pyro is needed to watch the engine or exhaust temp


Fuel Pressure Snubber is needed to prevent damage to the fuel pressure sensor


Digital guages
Analog guages
Temp guages
Fuel pressure sensors
Column guage kit
gauge pods


__________________________________________________ ________
Section 16

Tires

Update - I found out the same tire can come in the snow flake mountain symbol version or normal and the mt/snow symbol means softer rubber so the sipes can grip better. The non snow flake duratracs were great and last 45k+ miles. They were way better than my Nittos that lasted 20k miles. The forest service uses duratracs here but they weren't in stock so I got Ko2 and they are good so far. Discount tire matches a printed costco quote if they aren't in stock. I moved to a snowy place and went to the KO2 w a snow flake. Just remember if you dont need snow tires, the versions w/out the snow flake will last longer d/t harder rubber, but grip less on snow and ice with the stiffer sipes.

Oh, and get E rated not D

Offset is the line of the mounting from the centerline of the rim. +44 mm is the line at 44 mm away from the engine or towards the outside of the rim. -17mm is 2.4 inches the other direction towards the engine so it would push the tire out 2.4 inches from the stock edge of the rim currently.
OEM = +44
for 35s = +18
for 37s = -6 to -17

Tire size calculator/ numbers
Today everyone looks like they are metric up until 35 inch tires most of the time. Tacoma tire calculator will give you the diameter and width in inches for something like a 285/75/R16 like I had :
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc

Then on to 35s, they come in 12.5 and 13.5 widths, but rarely are tires exactly the measurements they state, anyway read below for more about widths and how they affect mpg etc. You need narrower to mount large tires w no lifts.

Ratings:
Ply is the old capacity rating 10,12,14 ply
Letters D, E, & F are old also and correspond to 10,12,&14
However, you really want to look at the load index or capacity of the tire in lbs. Below is Nitto's and notice that the D, E, and F are about the same capacity. Now don't get me wrong here it's hard to find a 37 inch tire that holds that much weight so it must have thicker side walls than a 37 that is D rated, but always pay attention to the 127q and 128q thats your index to lbs the 3970lbs and 3860lbs. q is the speed =99mph

35x12.50R18LT F 128Q	217130	18.3	34.76	12.52	8.5-(10.0)-11.0	3970	@	80	74.11
37x11.50R18LT D 127Q	217660	18.3	36.77	11.42	7.5-(9.0)-10.0	3860	@	65	76.63
37x12.50R18LT E 128Q	217260	18.3	36.77	12.52	8.5-(10.0)-11.0	3970	@	65	83.39

Speed Rating	Miles/Hour	Km/Hour
Q	99 mph	160 km/h
R	106 mph	170 km/h
S	112 mph	180 km/h
T	118 mph	190 km/h

Update about larger tires w my plan after what I found: I live 11 miles from an off road park and here is what I found after a few weeks of researching larger tires, youtube has the best visuals to what I am writing so see the videos below and others from those top 2 . I found that you can get 35 inch tires that are 12.5 wide (not the 13.5 wide) under a stock 2500/Cummins if you get wheels with a +18mm offset with minimum +25mm. Video 2 got 37s under his truck with -6 offset, and video 1 below is a -17, and they trimmed thier plastic inside the wheel well and the pinch welds See the video with the Power wagon below which come with about a 2 inch lift stock. If it was me I would have pull the plastic out, trim the 1/2" off the pinch welds and put the liner back in and heat it with a heat gun like kydex and just push and form the plastic that was bulged out at the pinch welds back out of the way. Then you have more rust protection, worse case you cut it out anyway. This is the cheapest way to get 35s or 37s, but I don't want a lift bc I need to get ATV, golf carts, bikes, and etc in the bed and it's hard already with 33s. If you take a look at Thurens website you will find that any lift under 4 inches does nothing for the size of tire you can fit under our wheel wells due to the shape. You need the offset to push the tires out so they don't hit the control arms and trim to allow for the edge of the tire when it's rotated. Our trucks are a +44 offset stock so hubcentric spacer would also work if you get one more than an inch wide. This is the basics I pulled out for my purchase notes

Details from others: I plan to get a similar setup to others - A cheap set of spare wheels that I can switch for the weekends and have my old stock wheels with Nitto Highway tires for towing on OEM rims. American racing ATX or equivalent $150ish wheel w/ size 17x9 or 18x9 with roughly a -6 to -17 offset encase I want 37s one day. 44mm is 1.7 inches so at -17 thats a 61mm or 2.4" extension of the tires outward. Off roading fender flares should would work well. Then a cheap set of 35/12.5/R17 or R18 tires - The Ironman All country MT tires are $170 each. I have read a lot off offroad threads about these tires and many people are happy and have found no issues with them. Now, don't get me wrong, this setup will not be the safest for towing or daily driving. A set of F rated Nitto hybrid ridge grapplers on stronger wheels would be a better daily driver/towing setup that could also go off road, but that would cost more than double my weekend crawler setup. However, with my shop I can change out my tires in minutes, so select based on your needs. Remember it's the offset that pushes the tire out in the optimal position so that when turning the tires don't rub a level kit is not needed. If you do want to level it but tow, put airbags in the back to prevent towing sag. There is a whole world build around this so watch youtube videos and read up and compare, but that's the summary of my plan and stuff I have found. If you wanted a super rock crawler/ overland type truck then look at Fab four has a Open fender system to get 37+ tires with no lift. That would still allow you to easily load ATVs, sidexsides, etc into the bed, and tow without a lifted truck. AEV also has some larger beefy fender flares you could use to cut away the fender for larger tires. Thuren's website was the most detailed for +18 offset wheels.

SRTMush gave me the basis for my plan so check out the couple videos on 37s w/no lift:
NOTE these are the exact tire with the correct lug, bore, etc
American racing brand = https://www.americanracing.com/wheel/32695/ax201
Black = AX20179080712N
Bronze middle = AX20179080612N




Check out all of Iwrockers videos, he has a couple videos in his playlist of his 37s with no lift:




Another level (2.5") with 37s again I'm not sure why people cut, vs using a heat gun and molding the plastic is beyond me.




Another video on fitting 37s






Updates about spacers aka adapters

Price about $300

Steel: There are Stahl/steel steel spacers used for Duallys from BORA which are safer than aluminum. Also for $800 you can get steel spacers from Goeske.

Aluminum: There are 6061 aircraft grade spacers made by Bora and Spidertrax

The three affordable spacers are around $300 are used off-road and are in many articles as the only options you should use for adpaters/spacers for a few reasons. Right now I won't get into the $800 steel spacers when there are $280 steel spacers.

1.) Better grade materials than ebay or Amazon brands esp when looking at aluminum.

2.) Steel is obvious = 1045 carbon steel vs 6061 aluminum.

Hubcentric = These three spacers are hubcentric and our tires are hub centric. Watch a YouTube video on hubcentric wheels. They are better for less vibration/centering, safer vs just having lug nuts holding the wheel pressure, etc. So if you want to keep the oem wheel then you need hubcentric spacers.

A 2.5 spacer will get you close to that 2.4" (61mm) mentioned above for the 37s to fit. A 2 inch spacer will be 12.7 mm less so that is 48.3mm which is a -4.3mm offset. 2" spacers should work, but the two setups in the videos above we're an offset of -6mm & -17mm, not -4 offset so don't fry me if it rubs 2mm more.

My thoughts:
Now, spacers piss some guys off and the threads go on and on, and they have good arguments. The guys who talk about the good brands above vs cheap ones that fly off, along with professional magazines articles have a good point, in that, they aren't that bad if you get the right ones. I get it, however for weekend fun/off roading I have another option for you to think about. My plan with the second set of cheap tires and wheels may be a better way to go. A set of cheap off road wheels will be $150 a piece. So for $320 more than the $280 spacers you would get 4 new wheels for a total of $600. Mount the mud tires to the new wheels. Then you can swap the mud tires for weekend fun and have all the clearances you need. Come Monday you can have your semi used road tires for towing -esp long distances, saving gas, and a quieter ride, and less wear on your hubs/etc. This works if you have a solid set of tires currently but are planning ahead, not if you need new tires now. Just an idea.

Also another thought. With the Ironmans, if you get 20k miles you get new tires sooner. With Toyo MTs you may get 40k miles for twice the price, but the last 20k on them is on a worn tires which would suck off road. With the iron man's you get thicker nubs more often. Watch custom offsets' playlist "Sh!t I didn't know" and see the one about the cheap vs better MT tires. Again, If you have a second set for off-road then they should last a long time though. Look at hybrid tires if you just want the cool looks, long mileage, w a warranty, and if you are an asphalt and dirt roads person.

Cheap vs good tires, 30 minutes of all the details about why cheap isn't always bad, mileage, warranty, etc for MT tires. FYI - their prices seems higher than a local 4x4 or tire shop. See bleepin Jeeps' video below about cheap mud tires" = $300 cheaper than these guys.


custom offsets' playlist to learn more:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...cDlAFD5E4oOeWW

Bleepin Jeeps' cheap Jeep playlist shows how suspension parts work, etc. Watch the video "I bought cheap tires" then watch the others to learn more.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...xzVFVg-CpMyUAx

Rhonny Dahl is great at explaining off roading, parts, gear, safety, and more. His trips look crazy awewome.
https://www.youtube.com/user/RonBacardi666

Original info about slightly larger tires but minimizing mpg:
All terrain or AT tires are a mix for highway driving and a little more knobby for dirt vs MT which are mud tires and make more noise and suck down more gas. There are a few that fit the stock rims, look good, are oversized, but don't rub with stock lift, and don?t drain the MPG ? Tire size =width/height/wheel-radius = 275/75/17 or 275/75/r17. If you want bigger looking tires right away with out a lift 275/75/17s fit the stock wheels and are wide enough to look good, but not too wide to decrease mpg a lot, nothing is more narrow for the 17? wheels and still 33" or more.


My reasoning for the three below you really don't need to read this but I chose these after all the research I did
I tried to find tires that looked better that the tiny stock tires and didn't drop the MPGs, and were knobby looking like MT aka offroad tires. So your choices are then AT or all terrain tires. The first two listed below make your tires roughly 33?. They are very close to the overall diameter or height of the newer 20? rims/tires running on new trucks today, which are mostly 265/60/r20 wich is about an inch narrower and I think it was 1/2" taller. The more narrow the better mpg due to friction, trust me I read it dozens of times all over threads and articles. But I also didn't want a tiny width tire. I'm okay with the stock tires you see on the newer more expensive line of trucks. Notice the width below of 275 is very close to the fuel saving widths of newer trucks running 265, but you need a bigger side wall on the 17? rims to make up for the smaller rim. However, it doesn't look weird though, because it looks like a big off-road tire esp if you use the Duratracs. I spent an entire day and a few more hours that week searching for a 255 or 265 width tire with a side wall greater than 75 or 80 but nothing like that is made in AT tires. Also these 3 fit our rims.

Update: Discovery ST Maxx is a AT & MT combination that looks pretty Agressive and also comes in 285/75/17. There is no mileage warranty buy reports say you could get 60k w the type of rubber. Tirereviewteam seems pretty thorough. http://tirereviewteam.com/cooper-dis...t-maxx-review/

Tire Basics:


Many reasons to use narrow: Expeditions West: Tire Selection for Expedition Travel


PSI:
add higher psi for better mpg after deletes some have said they got 20+mpg on 80 PSI
lower psi to grip boulder/rock edges


Ratings you want for Ram 2500
E sidewall rating = 10 ply/ 80 PSI what you want
D side wall rating = 8 ply/ 65 PSI still works
Load index: Tire Tech Information - Load Range / Ply Rating Identification


?Toyo Open Coountry A/T 2 = $250 275/75/17s with E rated 3,195 lb load, 50k mile warranty, about 33? tire = https://www.treaddepot.com/#!product...Fitment/352790
?Nitto Grapplers(Toyo subsidiary) = $250, 275/75/17, E rating, 3750 lb load 50k mile warranty = about 33?tires: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Terra-Gra...17-10/43081752
?Goodyear Duratracs - $305, 315/75/17, but D rated, 3197 lb rating, no mileage warranty, but then you get up in the 300+ widths you loose MPG, duractracs = 1.5 to 2 mpg less reported and no mileage warranty. I just chose these for an AT tire with larger width, but other brands exist. They look way beefier like an MT tire, more knobby looking on the sides but with highway-ish treads, and an inch wider = about 34? tire. The delete below will give you that mpg back.


Discovery ST Maxx member review vs Nitto HDs is interesting:

I'll try and listen for my Nittos as well, I have the Dura Grappler Highways, but I haven't noticed them. When I had the dealer put them on I forgot to tell them Terra Grappler not Grappler Highway, but they still look better than stock and the dealer was a friend so I didn't complain for all his effort. They are just not as aggressive on the sidewall, but maybe quieter too.

They are actually really quiet. i drove around with the window down yesterday on the highway trying to hear them. and to be honest there were a couple times i thought i did, then i realized it was a rig i was getting close to in the other lane that was singing the song of the tire people. So far i'm happy with them, definitely more traction then the Nittos that were on the truck, and quieter too. those Nittos would sing like i was at an opera, and i've honestly never had that bad of traction out of anything else in all road conditions then the Nitto HD grapplers that came with my truck. And considering they lasted under 20k, i'd never recomend them to anyone.


And i suppose i should thank @Discount Tire for taking care of me and getting me hooked up. dealt purely with the local store, but they handled me great and had the best price in town and even beat online prices for the tires without me asking. The first quote i got from 'em was better then any where else so i just kinda handed them my money and said take care of it. LOL

__________________________________________________ ___________________
Section 17

Fuel filters

The caterpillar kits are great, it's easier to find replacement filters and easier to swap out than the one inside the engine compartment. The filters cost $7 to $12 depending on brand, vs $80 for the oem filter cartridge every 15k miles. This kit comes with the bracket that fits our trucks exactly, curved return pipe, new mini pipe cutter, and other things that add up if you are thinking about building your own. Also all the parts are there and you don't have to spend time driving around town for filters at cat, connectors at home depot, cutting the bracket, etc. They are $250 The BEST Cummins/Duramax CAT Fuel Filter Kit Available


One guy built one from scratch for $195 (NAPA Gold 4770 Mounting Base will work also): http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3r...ter-guide.html.




video of kit install




There are other kits with stronger fuel pumps too if your tuning and racing demands it. It can also remove air from the fuel to get better fuel delivery as they put it. The 6.7L has an in-the-tank fuel pump and it doesn't fail as much as the older trucks did.

Fass or Airdog Systems

Exlanation animation:



Fass Install but 2004:
Airdog Install 4th gen -


Mopar Extreme Duty Fuel Filter Kit:
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/sh....php?t=1970977

Fleece:

Fuel filter delete -
__________________________________________________ ________________
Section 18

Studs

Install notes:
Do one bolt at a time so the head doesn't move
While your in there you may as well set valve lash. From reading - these things are all over the spec range when checked.

Install pics: https://www.igotacummins.com/content...d-Stud-Install


http://www.dieselworldmag.com/insura...cylinder-head/


stud lubrication for nuts:
https://www.amazon.com/ARP-100-9910-...NQ1WNHQMDT9HBP


ARP Diesel 2000 series these have worked in 800hp trucks if you want to save a few bucks
$450
200,000 psi 23.1% less psi strength than 625s
ARP 2000 alloy
http://www.xtremediesel.com/arpdiese...t247-4202.aspx




ARP 625s I you are using the race tunes on your tuner
$1182
260,000 psi abour 1/4 stronger thans the 2000s
ARP CA625+
ARP Diesel Custom Age 625+ Head Stud Kit 247-4204




Other less used options:


ARP bolts w 2 stud Main kit
$282
200,000 psi
ARP same 2000 alloy but mostly bolts only 2 studs
https://sinisterdiesel.com/i-1610022...ifkaAgna8P8HAQ


A1 Brand H11 Studs (check diameters, there may be new sizes 12mm or 14mm)
$680
240,000 psi/
H11 alloy
A1 Technologies H-11 Head Studs 98.5-12 5.9L / 6.7L Cummins


A1 brand 1722 studs (check diameters, there may be new sizes 12mm or 14mm)
$485
215,000 psi/
1722 alloy
A1 Technologies 1722 Head Studs 98.5-12 5.9L / 6.7L Cummins








Notes:
Thanks goes to Cumins_Diesel_Guy for PMing me some stud data and help


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__________________________________________________ _____________
Section 19




Stereo
I'll be putting my stereo in next week and I'll do a write up


Parts list Side filler trim:
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-95-6511...sortBy=helpful




2012 wiring


Ok according to http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2012/d...ticoptions.pdf


Your factory radio connector should be gray in color with 22 pins. #1 pin should be top right looking at the pins, and looks to be a bigger pin as well as #1 2... so something like this:


12 -- - - - - - - - - - - -- 1
22 - - - - - - - - - - 13


1. fused b(+) 14 gauge yl/rd tracer
2. can ihs bus (125k -) 22 wt/or
3-7. unused
8. left rear + 18 gy/lg
9. left rear - 18 gy/dg
10. right rear+ 18 dg/lg
11. right rear- 18 dg/gy
12. ground - 14 bk/or
13. can bus (125k +) 22 wt/gy
14-18 unused
19. right front+ 18 dg/vt
20. right front- 18 dg/yl
21. left front+ 18 gy/vt
22. left front- 18 gy/yl



Harness connector:
https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Harnes...sortBy=helpful


Note this has a red seperate power in this kit becuase the truck side connector doesn't have power. I tapped into the driver side cigarette outlet. I has the "stay on fucntion" until you open the car door and it was easy to reach.




Note: DO NOT USE AN INLINE SPLICE CONNECTOR. They are illegal in Canada for a reason! so don't do it in the US, it can cause a fire. The next section is how an alarm/stereo install guy taught me if you don't want to solder in your car, and works great on a boat too - where solder joints can break from all the vibration.


The safe way to add a inline splice/pigtail
Take a razor blade and lightly cut around the wire so a ring is cut around it, an inch or less away do the same
lightly slice down the center of the wire from one ring you cut to the other
bend the wire and the plastic covering will break/tear open
Now you can peel it off.
Thread the copper of your pigtain into one end of the wires you just exposed on the truck
Twist the pigtail wires around the outlet wires to the other end
Twist the pigtail around the opposite direction to get a tight 1 inch connection.
Wrap it with electrical tape atleast 2 to 3 times
Now the trick that makes it safe use small/smallest zipties to clamp the electrical tape down for a safe and solid connection. Place them all along the area (the inch of exposed wire)
It's a safe and solid connection.
Also you can llace liquid electrical tape over everything until it is all sealed up and a solid piece. Let a big glob dry on a paper plate a bit, this will allow you to apply it thicker & faster
You can solder also if you want, but it's inside your truck and solder can drip and melt things. Add the female spade connector on you pigtail end to connect to the red wiring harness's male spade connector. I like to add heat shrink from the spade/connectors to the wire too.
Slide the Red kit wires' clear protective cover over the spade connectors




Antennae connector:
https://www.amazon.com/Dakota-Antenn...sortBy=helpful


Stereo wiring harness:
Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Adapter


If you buy the steering wheel connector from Crutchfield they will provide your with a wiring schematics and help if you need to call in. I had trouble in my old truck finding the stock subwoofer wires and they helped by sending me a email with the wiring diagram/colors when all I bought was the steering wheel connector.


__________________________________________________ _____________
Section 20

Oil to use
Ranked/ Additives package/ price per gallon reference and deals/ and more

First a few notes from my research:
Capacity = 12 quarts including filter (fill the filter a little bit what for it to absorb and add more, don't leave it dry)

You will always have left over oil in the pan. It's because of the way the threads of the pan go up into the pan. They are recessed up into the oil pan thus a Fumoto valve isn't that bad in comparison 1/8" vs 3/16" of oil left in the pan. Pic of recessed drain port I'm talking about http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/filter/...cts/plug23.jpg

"The oil dipstick may need calibration see dealership paper on it, many people get weird readings - If you know absolutely that you added 12 quarts (minus the leftover amount that takes up the 1/8th inch in the pan) then you know what your dip stick will be at. NOTE: It should be checked in the morning after it has had all night to drain down."

Personal note - With that logic you should drain and change your oil in the morning as well or oil will be higher up in the block - add 1/8" always left over, plus whats in the block and you will be over pretty easy if you just add 12 quarts every time.

My notes to help others: Advanced auto has a 12 quart container for $7, it's a little more than 12qt, and it sits at 13" high so it will fit under the pan; Well I have the 285/75/16 Nittos so I'm close to 34" tires - with those tires the pan is just a hair over 15" from the ground. I know this because I searched everywhere for a bucket that is less than 15". I like the Fumoto valve (with safety clip) and a 3" to 4" piece of 3/8 ID hose down to the 12qt container. It's perfect and you can even leave the hose on, but it slips off and on easily. I got the thin hose so it won't put pressure on the Fumoto valve if it's bent/bumped when climbing around under there. Surgical tubing might be even better now that I think about it.

Fumoto valve part # F-104N - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fumoto Safety clip LC-10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Types of oil:
Hot climate 15w 40
Cold climate 5w 40


Sams Club has Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40
Costco has Chevron Delo 400LE 15W40 for about $3 less per gallon than walmart, or Mobil Delvac 15W40
Walmart Has 2.5 Gallons of Delo 400 for $28 (see delo report below)

Petroleum Quality Institute of America
Longhorm2500 says - to look at the PQIA link above - Delo 400LE, has the strongest additive pack.


Many use Valvoline Premium Blue 15w40

Price API Performance Category from another forum
$/gal. Brand/Description Oil #
Best
9.98 1 Cummins/Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
17.36 8 Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
21.89 12 Cummins/Valvoline Premium Blue Syn. 5W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
9.98 13 Pennzoil Long Life 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
10.88 14 Chevron Delo 400 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
35.00 20 Red Line Diesel Synthetic 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4
Good
10.36 2 NAPA Universal Fleet Plus 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
25.70 10 Amsoil 5W40 CI-4 CI-4 plus
13.51 15 Caterpillar DEO 15W40 CI-4 CI-4 plus
12.68 16 John Deere Plus-50 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
19.99 18 Lucas 15/40 Magnum 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
Satisfactory
9.68 3 Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
7.68 5 Wal Mart Super Tech Universal 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
9.52 6 Castrol GTX Diesel 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
9.52 7 Motorcraft Super Duty 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
9.99 19 Pilot Premium HD 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
12.00 21 LiquiMoly Diesel Special 15W40 CI-4 CF-4
Ho-Hum (least favorite)
10.96 4 Shell Rotella T Triple Protection 15W40 CJ-4 CJ-4
27.55 9 Amsoil Premium Synthetic 5W40 CJ-4 CJ-4
10.80 11 Castrol Tection 15W40 CJ-4 CJ-4
12.99 17 Chevron Delo 400 LE 15W40 CJ-4 CJ-4





__________________________________________________ ____________________________________
Section 21


OIL filters

Warranty note: Cummins can void your warranty when using an oil filter without a backflow valve.

Baldwin - BT7349
Fleetguard - LF16035 - LF3972
Fram - XG3976A - TG3976A - PH3976A FACTORY FUEL FILTER FRAM - FCS10726 or PS10279 Only available from the dealer currently. Dealer P/N is 68065608AA

Fleetguard LF9028 some report 4x better filtration siting their blackstone oil lab results

FACTORY AIR FILTER FRAM - CA10261 Baldwin - PA4318


FACTORY TRANSMISSION FILTERS FRAM - FT1223A (pan) (NEED SPIN ON NUMBERS)


Cabin Air Filter 2010 Avenger Mopar - 05058693AA


SEVERE DUTY FILTERS Filter head - 3930618-S


Water separator Fleetguard filter - FS1212 or Baldwin - BF1212 2 Micron Filter CAT fuel filter - IR-0750

New Brakes section

I've never had a set of ceramic pads that didn't squeal. Went from ceramic to Bosch premium, and they were a lot better. Then I went to SSBC "big bite" pads with drilled and slotted rotors. Best set up I've ever had. Already on 2 of my 3 trucks, and gonna be on the 3rd as soon as it's ready for new brakes.??

I had dust, glazing, and squeezing issues no matter what pad I went to. 3 weeks ago I changed to Bosch ceramic pads, truck stops like a sports car and stops silently now.

Napa premiums - no squeal less dust
Hawk Super duty - Good
EBC Greenstuff -Tons of black dust and same stopping
SSBC big bite - Great
Bosch Preiums - Good

Maxbrakes.com - $240 for drilled and slotted with pads
__________________________________________________ __________________________
Section 22

EGR valve and cooler cleaning

Note about cleaner vs Mopar EGR cleaner - Some people used purple power degreeser/cleaner and that worked great for me. I was worried about any water content in the cleaner and so I make sure it was dried well after.


This Guy is great he has a lot of diesel videos especially for sensors:
https://www.youtube.com/user/vipertech30813






This back yard test performed by trucktrend shows Purple Power "PP" the winner after a 2 hr soak. PP beat out Simple Green, Mopar EGR Cleaner, and others.We bench-test diesel EGR Cooler cleaning solutions






__________________________________________________ __________________________
Section 23

Manual 4x4 Transfer Case shift lever rod/linkage:

My Take on the project:
Ace Hardware has a lot of stainless in my area near the beach and I found a great turnbuckle for this project. I upgraded the size and added and internal spacer to prevent metal on metal vibration, here is the quick write up to supplement the next link
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4t...l#post24690538




See the first post by pirefyro:
Transfer Case Shift Arm fell off? If so, this might help you. - DodgeForum.com


Stainless turnbuckle [/url]
McMaster-Carr
Cheaper version - same concep


316 stainless turnbuckle, have 1000lbs+ of strength, and never rust. FYI - 304 stainless will surface rust, also some stainless turnbuckles use aluminum turnbuchles in the middle. Full 316stainless for under $30 from eRigging.com - https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Ste.../dp/B01AYI0BI8

Upper glovebox conversion

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4t.../532232?page=1


Add new section here.

Power lock for tailgate mod/upgrade
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...6&share_type=t
Upgrading manual locking tailgate.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4t...ck-2012-a.html

http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=54067

http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=108497

$61 Remote start
without the dealer fee,using the regular fobs, no need for the expensive fob that has the start button

The Fortin/ Crimestopper models priced well and have good reviews. They use basic oem fobs (hit lock 3 times to start), have the glow plug heat-up-delay function, change run times before turning back off, and you can also add FM or 2-way fobs from many different brands, then you can get 1500+ ft and trucl monitoring with 2-way fobs.

Fortin Evo-All, vs Evo-CHRT4, vs Evo-One:

The Fortin CHRT4 kit is an Evo-all with the THAR-CHR4 T harness included for our truck. You can buy them separately, it was $10 cheaper when I bought them separate.

The Evo-One also has the actual remote starter, but our trucks already have one so there is no need for the Evo-one. Just the controller is needed.

2012 - https://fortin.ca/en/vehicles/ram/2500/2012-diesel/

Some sellers on Amazon will program the modules below for you, but for $40 you can buy the flash-link updater2.

Costs:
$69 Evo CHRT4 (has the $17 Ram T harness included)

$48 Evo-All
$17 THAR-CHR4 T harness forbour Cummins.

$107 Evo-One (not needed, but does pop up on Fortin's website when searching by vehicle)

$41 Flash-Link Updater2


I don't see the need to spend hundreds when I spent $61, and I can always get a 2-way fob added n plug and play, which I don't think the factory system does.

Programming yourself:

It took me a couple minutes to install this. The longest part was programming it, but it was all straight forward and easy
Install the software
Upgrade the firmware
select your vehicle from the interactive menu
Go to the options tab, check or uncheck options you want,
hit flash

To turn off the lock chirp:

1. Press and hold Lock, after 4 seconds (while still holding lock) press and hold the panic button, then release them both at the same time.
   
2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7zDQ-Z3gEI&list=PL8E6A6ADB1902B132&index=21&feature=plp p_video
   
3. You can also cut the wiring going from the ignition/keyless system to the horn, but I think it would be better to release the pin from the connector so you can put it back in the future and look stock.

detailed here, but I bet the color is different for our newer trucks, and I have not verified this yet. http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/show...62&postcount=8

Wiring diagrams for future use:
https://www.igotacummins.com/showthread.php?t=7260

Overhead Console Install

for ST or base models

http://www.ramforum.com/f75/adding_o...console-23296/


Mopar Parts:

Console retainer: 55365119AC

Overhead Console: 1PQ03BD1AA

3 pin connector pinout: 68064999AA

Or:
Garage Opener ONLY Console: 1PQ06BD1AA
Garage Door and Rear Slider Console: 1PQ09BD1AA
If you want to add the Compass Module: 56046062AC

Or discussion on adding a charger/ grand cherokee/chrysler 300 console with sunglasses holder if you live in a sunny place.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/#/...ge=1&_k=udkscj

OEM Aux switches (the 7 button switch bank)

I have not added mine yet but here are my notes so far

Notes:
This is to add the AUX switches where the RAM symbol filler plate is on the lower section of the dash console
Pin diagram. Between the heat/AC dials and Sasquatch switch in this pick. You can't add this if you have heated seats. I added this pick to show you the lower switches which is my favorite other switch idea so far.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMAG0760.jpg

Part #s
switch bank: 5164912AC
wire harness: 68057288AA

Pin layout and diagram
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/7970874-post56.html

of this thread
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4t...ml#post7970874


To test this place your voltmeter set to ohms
one pointer of the meter goes to pin

Notes for the project
Put in your vin, or the year, model. Then on the left side choose UPFITTERS. The Diagram choice shows the electrical schematic. Clicking on the Connectors you can choose which connector. Upfitter Connector-Aux 1 and Upfitter Connector-Aux 2 are the ones you probably want. Upfitter Connector-Aux1 is in the engine compartment. It shows the layout of the connector and identifes the pins.

Basically for the AUX1 connector: pin 1 - Aux1, pin 2 - Aux2, pin 3 - Aux3, pin4 - Aux4. This is not the ground. You still need to find a ground to use.

Bascially for the AUX2 connector: pin 2 - Aux 5, Pin 3 - GROUND.


https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extr...ew/classic.htm

15 pages on wiring etc, that I will try to condense:
http://www.ramforum.com/showthread.php?t=24778

Switches - http://www.factoryMoparparts.com/oe-Mopar/5164912ac

Hiring harness for the module: http://www.factoryMoparparts.com/oe-Mopar/68057288aa

Add a ford foldable bed extender (it has no emblems)

Posted by phone – Ford has the same width bed as Ram and I used my neighbor/ friend's truck for measurements. I have an 8ft bed and for many reason I wanted a bed extender to section off the inside of the bed. I don't need the bed extended, but if you do here is how.

Buy a Ford bed extender. I got one for $125 off of craigslist.
Put your tape measure end flat against the bed and mark 8.5" in the middle of the side post (it's not 8.5” becuase the metal end of the tape throws it off). Then from that height measure in 1 7/8" from the back edge towards the front. It won't be the middle, but when extended towards the back the extender will line up perfectly with the corner framing of the sidewalls about 1/4" from the edge so it will look good that way. With the tailgate closed it doesn't matter how it looks.

The thread size for the pivot bolt in the middle is 10m 1.50pitch. get a tap and make the threads that way. I think you can also get to the back side for a bolt from behind the tail light but I didn't need to with the threads I made.

These are the measurements my friend's Ford had so I stuck with them. I choose not to make a bottom or top notch for the push pegs you see in the picture. The weight of the gate will hold it down enough for now. I will do it when I pull out the plastic liner and spray it with bed liner. You can also make a hole in the tale gate where the yellow locking pin comes down, but I didn't need an extender, so no hole. It's a great light option for storage with the quick ability to put in sheets of plywood and sheetrock in.

https://goo.gl/photos/vdtLVCmbmikhhUs18

Friend's Ford measurements - The camera angles are off so the measurements look a little bad but regardless the numbers above work great.


I tried to get this camera angle right so you could see the measurements to make your own. If you do make a peg hole this big then you could add a nut inside with a set of long forceps or something.


Top hole for the peg latch


Random pick with the extender thread in a little and resting in my friend's truck.

Note: Our tailgate stops at the rubber bumpers so you have plenty if room with the measurements above.


Don't for get to add paint to your threads and edges of the holes. I had touch up paint and used that.

Finned Max tow package rear diff cover upgrade

Mopar part 68149259AC

Best price seen was $89 in 2013

Found one for $110 on 1/8/17
https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-pr.../product/16702

Death wobble Fixes

Just encase this ever happens to mine I wanted the links


http://dodgeramsteeringstabilizer.com/

Safe T plus steering kit 31-140
http://www.supersteerparts.com/produ...g-control.html

Heated seats

The ram seats are fairly easy to remove and install the pads. Currently I live in FL, but if we move somewhere cold I wanted to have this info.

Install - http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4t...s-install.html

Aftermarket kit with switches
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...25-1870/winter

110v inverter/outlet

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/sh....php?t=2122882

Personally, I Added a 2013+ electrical outlet and 2012 Bezel, with $20 Amazon inverter. I used 1/8 in aluminum sheet metal as a bracket on the back to hold the bezel in place. I then added another bracket for the outlet to clip into. To fill the gap between the outlet bracket and bezel bracket I used JB weld. The pic is the bezel bracket holding the JB weld down which is holding the outlet bracket against the dash.

I used an old extension cord and stripped, soldered, then heat shrunk the wires to the outlet pins.

I cut and stripped the power wire to the inverter. Add spade connectors to the wire, Then add the wires to your switch and ground connectors, or ground to the body. My switches have spade connectors for the grounds to run the switch lights, so I added a spade splitter and then added both the original ground and the inverters ground, like in boat wiring.







Spade splitter:

Rear LED lights without making a hole in your bumper.

I didn't want to make a while in the bumper for a mount or for the surface mount LEDs. I used 2"x2" aluminum square tubing and cut it down the center and it worked great. Just use the bottom bolt to the bumper mounts. You will need wiring and a switch ran to the location but that will be under switches with relays section soon. I just used the best rated cheap lights with stainless steel from Amazon I could find.

Adding switches

The later 4th gens have a flatter surface down at the bottom of the center dash under your dials, but this is still a good place to put switches in our 2010-12 trucks, it's just not in your face as much but with this setup you can see when something is on. Cost of switches - sometimes if you buy an RV or marine panel its cheaper than buying a set or single switch with built in light, then you can add them to your flush mount panel.

I used a Blue Seas 6 gang switch mount
I found the best reviewed switch panel and out the switches into the Blue seas mount.
Cut a hole for the mount and clip it in. FYI - If you go too low the space behind the dash gets smaller

For wiring - relays mean you don't have to have high amp/wattage switches and then the switches only draw a tiny bit of power to trigger the relays under the hood. It's easier to route wiring from the engine compartment out to spots you need also. So add a pigtail with heat shrink to the cigarette lighter outlet (no real draw will be added to this original wiring bc of the relays). Send a wire for every switch to the engine compartment via the firewall boot behind the E-brake (see Very Detailed Raceme Ultra Install thread for details about this). Add ground pigtails to each relay, add positive fused wire pigtails to each relay, then add a wire from the relay to your switch, last pin is the relay to your device to be powered. So your switches will last a lifetime, relays and fuses can be easily switched out and used to diagnose and fix issues.
Pin 30= wire to the battery +
Pin 85= wire to ground -
Pin 86= wire to switch +
Pin 87= wire to device +

BTW - The small nob on the left is my sub amp volume knob hidden out of the way.


I chose these switches becuase they light up when one is on so I know. Blue light is darker in the cab at nights and I wanted the volt meter and other outlets for my boat. I'll upgrade to device specific switches later, but those are $10 a piece on Amazon or OTRATTW.com https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FQO9R4E..._RFwwzbSB9TQWE

This switch mount has no screws showing so it looks more OEM, the whole thing is one solid piece so it looks more uniform and doesn't have a gap on the border of the mount between each switch like the others do.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MMDMCE..._cJwwzbVQKS7KX

I'm going to add a fuse box but I'm currently using inline fuse holders. I like the boxes like my relay box that have the wires coming from the bottom so it fits with the design of engine compartments with all the fuses and relays on top and the wiring hidden underneath.
HELLA H84960081 6-Way Axial Single Fuse Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VUEDWA..._IVwwzbAV63NV1

Relay box with spare wires to go to newly added devices

Grid Heater Bolt of death and delete info

If you are one of the lucky ones then the bolt holding the wire to the grid heater can fall into your cylinders and kill your motor. Wiggle the wire from time to time to check for a loose bolt.

If you get an after market horn then you can drill and tap it and add an aftermarket intake heater.

Drill and tap size is m22 x 1. 25 for motorcraft and ford heaters
Motorcraft # 6E7Z-12A342-AA
Ford Part # F81Z-9N424-BA

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/....iABEgJe9_D_BwE

ICT, fleet, and other companies make grid heater delete plates or you can just cut out the grid and remove the wire on the oem part.

__________________________________________________ __________________________
Section 24

Turbo cleaning, and more

Links to DIY, parts, upgrades, pics, videos including how to clean, pics, where to buy parts, and more

Couple notes about removal

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you take off the actuator you need to mark which number of the teeth/which tooth lined up with the side of the hole (Either side) where the gear goes. It's easy and then you don't need to recalibrate it.


Drain coolant first
Taking out the elbow bend of the exhuast was pretty easy and quick and helped when I wanted to rotate the turbo to take of the actuator easily to get it out of the engine bay easier. I also took off the intake (grey side at the front, the exhuast side it the back and rusty.
I couldn't get the turbo dropped down enough to clear the upper studs to pull it out unless I took off the lower coolant hose connection on the bottom of the turbo, So just leave the coolant hose connected to the block. I also removed the oil drip flexible pipe unbolt from the turbo and pop it out of the block/top of drain pan.


I used purple power to degrease under the vain wheel and in between and used the actuator arm to move the loosen the soot and a small pipe cleaner all over, then sprayed with break cleaner from time to time. A brillow bad is what they use for turbos that the vains can come out so you can use one to scrub soot too.


Make sure the vain guise built into the exhuast side moves well and smoothly. I let the purple power sit between the guide and the housing to clean it out. Use purple power until the break cleaner runs clear when moving the vain guide/ring.


The pipe cleaner was the most useful, harbor freight has a good set for the job for $4 and I think that's where I got my mini set on a key ring.


Putting it back together is no problem just move the actuator arm to open fit it into the vain holes of the vain ring which is mounted into the exhuast side, then lower down and line up the pin and hole.


Video but with removable vains - He talks about symptoms, why they could fail, and other tricks, It's good to know how to open it, rubber mallet or some use a hammer and screw driver.





Awesome Turbo Thread with pics, parts replacement links and more:



The hardest nut/bolts were the 15mm nuts on the exhuast side of the turbo. I used my torch and pb blaster bc it's what I had. I think I read CRC brand has better capillary draw (I'll update the name if I get a chance to find it. Make sure you have a couple extensions, pipe for leverage, breaker bar, coolant etc.


Drive around then do an oil change encase any chemicals made it into the oil circulatory portion of the turbo.


Aftermarket turbo comparison:
Which Turbo Is Best For You - Upgrading Your Diesels Turbocharger - Diesel Power Magazine


$1100 Magnum aftermarket stock turbo from ADS with actuator - for the price of an actuator:
ADS 6.7L HE351VE Turbocharger 70-4012




Turbo wrench/special tool Mopar 9866A. You can add a breaker bar instead of using a pipe over a wrench: https://areadieselservice.com/diesel...oduct/99-1055/
__________________________________________________ __________________________
Section 25

Cool video playlist of some cool mods and explanations and why
More to come later on basic info about mods

Top 10 Mods videos playlist -






__________________________________________________ __________________________
Section 26

Cold Air Intakes
Videos, Why, How, Links

You will also probably see that the stock intake hose clamps break due to rust.




For just $99 - If you want to save $275 to $375 right away. If your truck doesn't have a channel from your box down to your wheel well (Chevy trucks do) I haven't checked my Cummins, then go get some sheet aluminum at the scrap yard, and rivet together a channel that goes down from our stock intake box port down to connect to the S&B Ram like seen in the S&B video below. 316 Stainless sheet and bolts with locking nuts would give you the best corrosion free setup in salty road areas. I've never used stainless rivets. The filter will catch corrosion though and you can always add new bigger rivets later as well.
Ram scoop connected to the down spout/channel through the stock wheelwell port
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZlH_leMJFe4/maxresdefault.jpg

S&B is the best bang for buck:

1.) With roughly the same increases in air flow, the S&B intake is $100 less than others, and $35 to $50 less for the ram.
2.)S&B claims 40% more air flow with the box plug box and almost 49.1% without the box plug
3.)Independent dyno testing by Thoroughbred diesel got 10% hp increase w/out plug on Cummins
4.)Independent dyno testing by ATP got 25% hp increase on a duramax
Their videos with results mentioned: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...oghbred+diesel




S&B $275
Air flow increase is stock divided by aftermarket value = 49.1% dry and 47.8% oiled
Intake: S&B 10-12 Dodge Cummins 6.7L Air Intake
Ram Part # AS-1002: $99 - Can upgrade later, on same webpage page
Item Video: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...intake+cummins
Install Video:




aFe $375
Air flow increase is stock divided by aftermarket value = 49.27%
Intake: '10 - '12 part # 54-82034
Ram: No ram available
Item Video:
Install Video: similar to S&B


Banks $385:
Air flow increase is stock divided by aftermarket value = 57% w ram
Intake: '10- '12 is Part #: 42180 http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/ba...air-intake.htm
Ram: $130 to $150 for model years 2009 or lower
Item Video:
Install Video:
Ram under the hood behind the wheel well
__________________________________________________ __________________________
Section 27

HID lights legal-style
As close as you can get to legal HID lights for $85

Warning - A lot of conversations get VERY HEATED on this subject and you should not make a comment on a thread or a forum unless you know what a HID Projector is. See links and vids below. Without a projector you will be blasting light all over the place and many forums (not just Cummins) can explain this. You need to put in a projector unless you want to piss off members here, at other forums, or the general public that lives around you. Again, don't ask questions about just installing bulbs without a projector or people will get mad at you and you will probably get pulled over - you have been warned. On the flip side many people who don't know what a HID projector is just assume someone is throwing bulbs in and they are going to be blast people; although this assumption happens less now as HID have become more common place. Again, you should not make a comment on a thread or a forum unless you know what a HID Projector is.

Projector - It cuts off the upper portion of the light and focuses it in the safe locations. The cutoff line for HIDs is actually more precise and has less washout and glare to oncoming traffic than normal bulbs/housings.

Bulbs You will need H1 bullb (NOT H13, or other oem code bulbs). You need H1 becuase it fits the projector below. See parts list

Videos:

What does a projector look like and how does it function



How to videos

Install projector I used a heat gun around the edge vs an oven


Watch this!!! - good tips


Adjust your lights the right way DO IT


Color
4300k is the BMW color with a little yellow tint and less blue but still a little, these will be less likely to get you pulled over, 5000k tend to go more blue and more chance of being pulled over, some brands add a little extra blue vs the original BMW 5000k which won't do you favors with the cops, but rather sell the company more bulbs as blue is popular with teenagers. A lot of research 100+ pages on a lot of sites and you will get into research papers even on street lights/ etc, that show a yellowish light is better on our eyes at night than a blueish light, so better for oncoming traffic. All my research for a couple days supports 4300k vs using 5000k or higher if you had to make a choice, but both will work. See my pics below of the 4300k bulbs

Wattage
I chose 35 watt bulbs vs 55 because they are super bright still at 35w, they are $20 cheaper, produce less heat - thus less chance of melting plastic or wires and blowing a fuse, 70w is less than 110w and won't draw your battery down as fast if they are on while the truck is off (for those times when you need it). Also everytime you unlock your truck the lights come on, and after you turn ur truck off the lights stay on for about 25 seconds, so it can suck some juice down without the truck on. I used the bulbs linked below and they were great for a couple years so I stuck with the same bulbs and brand.

Dual lights (high and low beam in one bulb thus only 2 headlight housings)
This harness is not for trucks with a quad light setup but is needed for dual light trucks, or you can make one and I believe I have written that below. I updated this paragraph because I got the harness after moisture messed up my homemade one and I didn't have time to make another or find all the issues. Now for the details, strap your education hat on. This is how the normal bulbs work - When the bulb is lit on low it turns on one filament in the bulb, and then lights a different filament in the same bulb when on high. How do you power one bulb with two settings (high and low wires) without the bulb turning off between when the lows stop and highs start... A capacitor solves that delay between the power sources. So, because we are using one bulb with only one brightness how do we get high and low beam? When the highs are on the wire powers the bulb and pigtails to the shield on the projector and it moves out of the way and allows all the light to shine above that cut off line. But then you only have two wires coming from the bulb positive and negative, so the low power wire and high power wires have to splice together. But, the low power will travel back up the high beam power wires and then over to the shield also. So you need a one way valve (diode) to block the low beam from traveling to the shield. Or just buy this dual light specific harness that works with shield actuated projectors. It worked great and was easy to install
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/wi...n-harness.html
I'll try and remember to add some pics when I get a chance.


Trucks with quad lights setups have it easy. Just add the projector to the low beam housings and leave the shield wires disconnected.

Fix the flicker/pulse:
The pulse mentioned in this video at :37 seconds -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8YBRov_sMU

My 2012 did not need resistors but did have dirty or pulsed power. You can determine if it's dirty power - If the lights don't flicker with the car off, the lights flicker with the car on. Maybe it's a wire also, so turn off the truck and shake the wires, if there is no flicker it's dirty power. Note: You will need two capacitors - Note: The arrow on a capacitor points to the negative terminal. Another link on the subject to read - http://www.ddmtuning.com/support/ind...ring--shut-off

Capacitors are like super-fast discharging batteries, technically with infinite resistance thus a resistor is not needed. They release stored energy for when small decreases in the power occur (dirty power). The capacitor fills the gap thus fixing the dirty power. They also charge up letting your ballasts receive a good amount of power when the truck starts if it has not been too long since they were charged (they will drain slowly over a day to days). "Despite any pulsing signals from the factory harness, the inline capacitor will store a charge and release it smoothly into the relays for uninterrupted operation." https://www.theretrofitsource.com/knowitall/wireharnesses.html/

The Capacitors you need 35volt capacitor - radio shack part #272-1020 is $4.50.
I choose the 4700uf 35v so that I could store even more power for $1.50 more. Part number 272-1022 is $5.50

Resistors for newer trucks they trick the truck into thinking a 50 to 55watt bulb is there which the Canbus system looks for. If lights flicker with the car off and on and/or throw a error then you will need resistors for HID and LED lights - such as with making your blinkers LED. The capacitor might fix all of that even in newer trucks since it has unlimited resistance. I didn't need a resistor in my 2012.
Put the resistor after the OEM plug but before the HID ballast. Place a resistor then a capacitor and heat shrink it all. Harbor frieght and advanced auto (way more expensive) both have heat shrink kits and you can step the tubing size down from the resisters size down to the spade connectors. Twist the large heat shrink closed to fit a smaller one on top and so on, adding layers to build the tiny wires up. Resistor = 6 ohm 55watt resistor, or 6 to 10 ohm 50 watt resistors (same as used for LED blinker conversions), or buy the harness mentioned a few paragraphs below.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/754962-post10.html
you can always buy a harness with these functions as well

Relay Harness
To be safe you might as well use a heavy duty relay harness, which you can build cheaper and better grade than online. You do not need to add a relay harness with 35watts but it won't hurt either because the main power to the lights will not come through the stock wiring. I would especially use a relay harness if you are going to use 55w HID bulbs, they are at the max for our trucks' wiring, they put out a lot of heat so you will need to step up the wire gauge, and you might as well shield the wires with a heat shield product as a precaution.

Other upgrade options while inside your lights
How to blacken/smoke your lenses (this seems to be the fad lately so here you go)
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...eadlight+lense


PARTS

$26 morimoto look-a-like projectors that I used for over 2 years in my last truck
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$7 - The harness you will need to make your factory H13 connector go to the H1 bulbs' connector
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


$40 - H1 bulbs for the projector -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$10 Capacitors detailed above
or
$15 resistor harness
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/RAM-ECE
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014XM064U
$30 resistor Harness
http://www.carhidkits.com/50w-resist...-pack-378.html

Butyl headlight lense sealant - https://www.theretrofitsource.com/ac...utyl-glue.html

Another source of good priced parts is DDM. DDM is a US company that drop ships direct from China to save money, but it takes 2-3 weeks which is okay if you are planning. I learned about it here: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topi...ctor-retrofit/


My pics I have the 2 headlight setup with 1 bulb that switches filaments from low to high on each side.

My lights after I aimed them (note: I'm not on level ground when I took the pic, just remembered after going to get some beer)
https://goo.gl/photos/b4y42YYTwmgP5NJz5

Front view looks oem for cops
https://goo.gl/photos/934XA6xcNkakVQr49

The high beam wires route through the existing hole but are hidden, make a pin prick in the rear seal to feed it through
https://goo.gl/photos/i9nNdkayjRkBwRdZ7

The back/wire
https://goo.gl/photos/f4F2Vdz8jZighreQ7

Harness layout, haven't added resistors/capacitors yet. I added it on the H13-H1 harness between the plug and ballast.
https://goo.gl/photos/knTjiJVwyUU1FZsq9


2 headlight Diagram plan pic soon, (quad would be way easier but requires 4 projectors, or two low beams and keep two regular halogen high beams):

5 minute diagram I made https://goo.gl/photos/hS5bmSigHdkcPRza8


The diode is a one way valve. It's needed bc the high and low beam switch both need to feed power to the HID ballast/bulb via the relay just like it fed one bulb before. However, to flip the shield out of the way for high beam only, you need the diode to prevent the low beam power from coming back up the high beam since they are both spliced in at the same spot on pin 86 of the relay. The shield draws barely any power to flip up so this diode hat worked on my bilge pump will work fine - https://www.radioshack.com/products/4-rectifier-diodes . Here is the same issue discussed and found on motorcycles w one bulb = https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37349

Note on opening the lenses:
I used a heat gun on high and circled the heat around the housing until I could slowly lift the peacies apart. This tok a long time and with a lot of presure you can crack the lense so take your time. It took about an hour for both of them. Seal it with the butyl sealant. Baking may work but I just chose to use the heat gun.

__________________________________________________ __________________________
Section 28

At the bottom of this thread are ways to add a 2nd AC compressor (makes 5-10+ CFM depending on RPM) to use as a your pump

Electric pump section:
On board air on the cheap, but still good using a cheap/reliable electric pump:

I used used Parker DOT 300+ PSI air brake hose and a well known cheap pump that can easily be upgraded later. You can then easily add a T for air bags, air horn, etc later using their prestolok fittings. Also get the $5 Parker hose cutter it's way easier to get a straight cut vs than using a razor blade or PVC pipe cutter.

My wife got me a Tusnami MF-1050 air pump for Xmas, for off road tire filling. It's the same as the MV-50 and MV-1050. There are some articles about it and I read about it in some forums. It's a cheap but good beginner pump, that can be used as a backup if you upgrade. I had a lot of the stuff except the hose to do an on board air system so I'm not sure what it would cost total. Here is a write up in how to upgrade it. Regardless if you upgrade it, it's a good pump. I just upgraded the electrical side of things. I used yellow spade connectors, and 10g wire, more info below.

I had a harbor freight 5 gallon portable tank from a boat project where I need so air on the boat. I always pick up compressor fitting and connectors. I had a random 35' hose from a bostich compressor/kit I bought years ago. I also had the wire lying around also. The only thing I had to buy was the air brake hose and connectors, so why not plumb my truck, right.

I removed the oem jack and Jack amount and used the screw down hardware to bolt down the air pump mount. My plant is to mount the jack behind the back seat or under it if it will fit with the mount. The pump fit perfect under the passenger front seat, but you loose one click (about and inch) on the seat reversing backward. The next place I was thinking about using was the hidden storage boxes in the floor bc the pump fit in there great.

I mounted the pump on 1/2" starboard for a solid mount and to raise the floor up a bit to level out the area so the back of the pump would be flush. You'll see it's not level under the seat.

I went down to Goodyear rubber/hydraulic hose store and they had Parker air brake hose. I went with 1/2" so the pump didn't have to push through such a small hose vs 1/4". They had prestolok push-to-connect fittings that had the 1/4"NPT fittings to connect to all the compressor side of things. The guy said the burst pressure in the book said 950 PSI. It didn't give a Max working PSI, but he said it should be about 300 for the max PSI. It was a $1.79 per foot and around $5 per connector.

I used 4 gauge wire from the battery to an automatic breaker, down, and along the passenger side frame. I zip tied to the other harnesess, and then up through the plastic fitting on the passenger side floor below the seat. Then to another breaker becuase I needed a safe connection for the 4guage wire to connect the pump wire. There wasn't enough room in the pump for an electrical connector that big. I redid the relay inside to a Bosch relay, and increased the wire gauge sizes in the pump as well to 10g.

I ran the prestolok push to connect 90 with 1/4NPT from the pump down through the floor and sealed it with 3m 5200. At sharp edges I used pieces of hose to slide to the spots encase of vibration/abrasion. Next, I routed the hose to a tank in the fender. I went to a metal yard and had a 1.5" strip of stainless strap cut off a sheet metal piece. The strap connected to some random bolt holes that must be there for some upgrade reason. Anyway from the tank I went into the bed of the truck near the tailgate through the pillar there that had a hole towards the top. I have an on-off valve there then a coupler in case I want to connect or disconnect the hose if it's in the way. The on-off valve will make sure it doesn't leak.

I have it pressurized to 100psi right now to watch over night for leaks. It took a couple minutes to get to that. It's a pretty impressive pump for $50

Note: If you are willing to cut back the bolt that sticks out a bunch into the rear fender wall then the tank would fit in that area, bit I didn't want to cut it.



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2nd Gen approach that looked cool
Adding a second AC compressor to use as a OBA compressor for 5-10+ cfm.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98...ge=1&_k=n8o8l5

3rd gen adding a second AC compressor to use as a OBA compressor for 5-10+ cfm.
https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3...c-install.html


__________________________________________________ ____
Section 29


Tips and tricks to posting on the forum


To get rid of big Amazon links that show up like and blank weird image - Go to the item, click on the reviews next to the star rating, You will still be on the main page, so now click on the number next to the Stars at the top of the review area. It will then take you to a separate link/window apart from the item listing that you can now copy/paste and post so that it looks like this below -Notice the links always say "helpful" at the end, this is how you know it's what your are going for https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scann...sortBy=helpful



instead of this (which is just the normal link to the item, but shows up weird in this forum and can screw up your post style


https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scann...ct_top?ie=UTF8

__________________________________________________ ____
Section 30

Valuble threads on 2nd gens - for ideas
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...4802?_k=7fu5x7

_______________________________
Section 31


Lockers

Why have lockers


Types of lockers explained


The Power wagon has locking difs that will be easy to swap into our trucks.

Lunchbox lockers article
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/13...tial-upgrades/

Note if the gap is too wide you will get a huge clunking sound from time to time, it's the main rod slipping through the lunchbox as it flips completely over vs just clicking.
The clicking will be unheard in our trucks vs a clunk means you need some adjusting.

For example - Inside vs outside clicking w a clunk


Sometimes you can get a big clunk if you turn with a lot of power right off the start. Reviews say if you take it off road it will break it in and you won't get the big clunking sound. It will happen more on the front as well. Also you can roll forward a tiny bit then turn, locking up on solid ground isn't good. This is another reason to get air or electric lockers if you can afford it. In YouTube search lunchbox locker to see more vids.

Off road/overland
Ronny Dahl has a lot of informative videos about upgrades, parts, tools, safety, how-toos and more. His trips look crazy fun.
https://www.youtube.com/user/RonBacardi666



_______________________________________________

Section 32

Some mounting base brackets have a tab that slides between the door. It clamps down on the top door jam. With a golf cart in the back I'm looking at racks. Here are some details for base mounts that mount in the rails of the roof not in the door jam.


https://www.ramforum.com/threads/roo...m.21262/page-3


Fit Kit #1528 (you'll need these for perfect fitment on the roof)

480 style feet (these hold the load bars and secure the fit kit to the roof)

Load bars LB58 (these are 58" bars that the basket sits on, they can be cut to proper length if too long for your liking)

And last is the basket. There are 2 to choose from......
Thule- MOAB
Yakima- load warrior
I went with the Yakima BC it was free LOL



End page 3 (used for keeping track in long posts)

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[Stewbuntu]

reserved for future growth

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[Stewbuntu]

I added my "legal-style" HID projector/bulb upgrade in section 26. I just couldn't stand the bad headlights my 2-headlight-setup had.

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[cumminsbadgirl]

THANk YOU @Stewbuntu !
I have lots of reading to do !!!

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[The DodgeFather]

Wow this will be a fun read


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[easymon]

Very nice thread guys lots of good information.

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[cumminsbadgirl]

Wow this will be a fun read


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I know right i hope there are no pop quizzes right away cus thats a lot of info to consume !!! He did an awesome job on it. Saves me "google time and asking lots of questions which i will still do anyway

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[The DodgeFather]

Yep a reliable source all in one place .


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