Page 3


__________________________________________________ _____________
Section 19




Stereo
I'll be putting my stereo in next week and I'll do a write up


Parts list Side filler trim:
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-95-6511...sortBy=helpful




2012 wiring


Ok according to http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2012/d...ticoptions.pdf


Your factory radio connector should be gray in color with 22 pins. #1 pin should be top right looking at the pins, and looks to be a bigger pin as well as #1 2... so something like this:


12 -- - - - - - - - - - - -- 1
22 - - - - - - - - - - 13


1. fused b(+) 14 gauge yl/rd tracer
2. can ihs bus (125k -) 22 wt/or
3-7. unused
8. left rear + 18 gy/lg
9. left rear - 18 gy/dg
10. right rear+ 18 dg/lg
11. right rear- 18 dg/gy
12. ground - 14 bk/or
13. can bus (125k +) 22 wt/gy
14-18 unused
19. right front+ 18 dg/vt
20. right front- 18 dg/yl
21. left front+ 18 gy/vt
22. left front- 18 gy/yl



Harness connector:
https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Harnes...sortBy=helpful


Note this has a red seperate power in this kit becuase the truck side connector doesn't have power. I tapped into the driver side cigarette outlet. I has the "stay on fucntion" until you open the car door and it was easy to reach.




Note: DO NOT USE AN INLINE SPLICE CONNECTOR. They are illegal in Canada for a reason! so don't do it in the US, it can cause a fire. The next section is how an alarm/stereo install guy taught me if you don't want to solder in your car, and works great on a boat too - where solder joints can break from all the vibration.


The safe way to add a inline splice/pigtail
Take a razor blade and lightly cut around the wire so a ring is cut around it, an inch or less away do the same
lightly slice down the center of the wire from one ring you cut to the other
bend the wire and the plastic covering will break/tear open
Now you can peel it off.
Thread the copper of your pigtain into one end of the wires you just exposed on the truck
Twist the pigtail wires around the outlet wires to the other end
Twist the pigtail around the opposite direction to get a tight 1 inch connection.
Wrap it with electrical tape atleast 2 to 3 times
Now the trick that makes it safe use small/smallest zipties to clamp the electrical tape down for a safe and solid connection. Place them all along the area (the inch of exposed wire)
It's a safe and solid connection.
Also you can llace liquid electrical tape over everything until it is all sealed up and a solid piece. Let a big glob dry on a paper plate a bit, this will allow you to apply it thicker & faster
You can solder also if you want, but it's inside your truck and solder can drip and melt things. Add the female spade connector on you pigtail end to connect to the red wiring harness's male spade connector. I like to add heat shrink from the spade/connectors to the wire too.
Slide the Red kit wires' clear protective cover over the spade connectors




Antennae connector:
https://www.amazon.com/Dakota-Antenn...sortBy=helpful


Stereo wiring harness:
Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Adapter


If you buy the steering wheel connector from Crutchfield they will provide your with a wiring schematics and help if you need to call in. I had trouble in my old truck finding the stock subwoofer wires and they helped by sending me a email with the wiring diagram/colors when all I bought was the steering wheel connector.


__________________________________________________ _____________
Section 20


Oil to use
Ranked/ Additives package/ price per gallon reference and deals/ and more

First a few notes from my research:
Capacity = 12 quarts including filter (fill the filter a little bit what for it to absorb and add more, don't leave it dry)

You will always have left over oil in the pan. It's because of the way the threads of the pan go up into the pan. They are recessed up into the oil pan thus a Fumoto valve isn't that bad in comparison 1/8" vs 3/16" of oil left in the pan. Pic of recessed drain port I'm talking about http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/filter/...cts/plug23.jpg

"The oil dipstick may need calibration see dealership paper on it, many people get weird readings - If you know absolutely that you added 12 quarts (minus the leftover amount that takes up the 1/8th inch in the pan) then you know what your dip stick will be at. NOTE: It should be checked in the morning after it has had all night to drain down."

Personal note - With that logic you should drain and change your oil in the morning as well or oil will be higher up in the block - add 1/8" always left over, plus whats in the block and you will be over pretty easy if you just add 12 quarts every time.

My notes to help others: Advanced auto has a 12 quart container for $7, it's a little more than 12qt, and it sits at 13" high so it will fit under the pan; Well I have the 285/75/16 Nittos so I'm close to 34" tires - with those tires the pan is just a hair over 15" from the ground. I know this because I searched everywhere for a bucket that is less than 15". I like the Fumoto valve (with safety clip) and a 3" to 4" piece of 3/8 ID hose down to the 12qt container. It's perfect and you can even leave the hose on, but it slips off and on easily. I got the thin hose so it won't put pressure on the Fumoto valve if it's bent/bumped when climbing around under there. Surgical tubing might be even better now that I think about it.

Fumoto valve part # F-104N - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fumoto Safety clip LC-10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Types of oil:
Hot climate 15w 40
Cold climate 5w 40


Sams Club has Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40
Costco has Chevron Delo 400LE 15W40 for about $3 less per gallon than walmart, or Mobil Delvac 15W40
Walmart Has 2.5 Gallons of Delo 400 for $28 (see delo report below)

Petroleum Quality Institute of America
Longhorm2500 says - to look at the PQIA link above - Delo 400LE, has the strongest additive pack.


Many use Valvoline Premium Blue 15w40

Price API Performance Category from another forum
$/gal. Brand/Description Oil #
Best
9.98 1 Cummins/Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
17.36 8 Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
21.89 12 Cummins/Valvoline Premium Blue Syn. 5W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
9.98 13 Pennzoil Long Life 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
10.88 14 Chevron Delo 400 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
35.00 20 Red Line Diesel Synthetic 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4
Good
10.36 2 NAPA Universal Fleet Plus 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
25.70 10 Amsoil 5W40 CI-4 CI-4 plus
13.51 15 Caterpillar DEO 15W40 CI-4 CI-4 plus
12.68 16 John Deere Plus-50 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
19.99 18 Lucas 15/40 Magnum 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
Satisfactory
9.68 3 Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
7.68 5 Wal Mart Super Tech Universal 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
9.52 6 Castrol GTX Diesel 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
9.52 7 Motorcraft Super Duty 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
9.99 19 Pilot Premium HD 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
12.00 21 LiquiMoly Diesel Special 15W40 CI-4 CF-4
Ho-Hum (least favorite)
10.96 4 Shell Rotella T Triple Protection 15W40 CJ-4 CJ-4
27.55 9 Amsoil Premium Synthetic 5W40 CJ-4 CJ-4
10.80 11 Castrol Tection 15W40 CJ-4 CJ-4
12.99 17 Chevron Delo 400 LE 15W40 CJ-4 CJ-4





__________________________________________________ ____________________________________
Section 21


OIL filters

Warranty note: Cummins can void your warranty when using an oil filter without a backflow valve.

Baldwin - BT7349
Fleetguard - LF16035 - LF3972
Fram - XG3976A - TG3976A - PH3976A FACTORY FUEL FILTER FRAM - FCS10726 or PS10279 Only available from the dealer currently. Dealer P/N is 68065608AA

Fleetguard LF9028 some report 4x better filtration siting their blackstone oil lab results

FACTORY AIR FILTER FRAM - CA10261 Baldwin - PA4318


FACTORY TRANSMISSION FILTERS FRAM - FT1223A (pan) (NEED SPIN ON NUMBERS)


Cabin Air Filter 2010 Avenger Mopar - 05058693AA


SEVERE DUTY FILTERS Filter head - 3930618-S


Water separator Fleetguard filter - FS1212 or Baldwin - BF1212 2 Micron Filter CAT fuel filter - IR-0750



New Brakes section

Quote Originally Posted by QMFB View Post
I've never had a set of ceramic pads that didn't squeal. Went from ceramic to Bosch premium, and they were a lot better. Then I went to SSBC "big bite" pads with drilled and slotted rotors. Best set up I've ever had. Already on 2 of my 3 trucks, and gonna be on the 3rd as soon as it's ready for new brakes.??

Quote Originally Posted by BadMotherTrucker View Post
I had dust, glazing, and squeezing issues no matter what pad I went to. 3 weeks ago I changed to Bosch ceramic pads, truck stops like a sports car and stops silently now.

Napa premiums - no squeal less dust
Hawk Super duty - Good
EBC Greenstuff -Tons of black dust and same stopping
SSBC big bite - Great
Bosch Preiums - Good

Maxbrakes.com - $240 for drilled and slotted with pads
__________________________________________________ __________________________
Section 22




EGR valve and cooler cleaning


Note about cleaner vs Mopar EGR cleaner - Some people used purple power degreeser/cleaner and that worked great for me. I was worried about any water content in the cleaner and so I make sure it was dried well after.


This Guy is great he has a lot of diesel videos especially for sensors:
https://www.youtube.com/user/vipertech30813






This back yard test performed by trucktrend shows Purple Power "PP" the winner after a 2 hr soak. PP beat out Simple Green, Mopar EGR Cleaner, and others.We bench-test diesel EGR Cooler cleaning solutions






__________________________________________________ __________________________
Section 23



Manual 4x4 Transfer Case shift lever rod/linkage:


My Take on the project:
Ace Hardware has a lot of stainless in my area near the beach and I found a great turnbuckle for this project. I upgraded the size and added and internal spacer to prevent metal on metal vibration, here is the quick write up to supplement the next link
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4t...l#post24690538




See the first post by pirefyro:
Transfer Case Shift Arm fell off? If so, this might help you. - DodgeForum.com


Stainless turnbuckle [/url]
McMaster-Carr
Cheaper version - same concep


316 stainless turnbuckle, have 1000lbs+ of strength, and never rust. FYI - 304 stainless will surface rust, also some stainless turnbuckles use aluminum turnbuchles in the middle. Full 316stainless for under $30 from eRigging.com - https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Ste.../dp/B01AYI0BI8




Upper glovebox conversion


http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4t.../532232?page=1


Add new section here.

Power lock for tailgate mod/upgrade
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...6&share_type=t
Upgrading manual locking tailgate.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4t...ck-2012-a.html

http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=54067

http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=108497



$61 Remote start
without the dealer fee,using the regular fobs, no need for the expensive fob that has the start button



The Fortin/ Crimestopper models priced well and have good reviews. They use basic oem fobs (hit lock 3 times to start), have the glow plug heat-up-delay function, change run times before turning back off, and you can also add FM or 2-way fobs from many different brands, then you can get 1500+ ft and trucl monitoring with 2-way fobs.

Fortin Evo-All, vs Evo-CHRT4, vs Evo-One:
The Fortin CHRT4 kit is an Evo-all with the THAR-CHR4 T harness included for our truck. You can buy them separately, it was $10 cheaper when I bought them separate.

The Evo-One also has the actual remote starter, but our trucks already have one so there is no need for the Evo-one. Just the controller is needed.

2012 - https://fortin.ca/en/vehicles/ram/2500/2012-diesel/

Some sellers on Amazon will program the modules below for you, but for $40 you can buy the flash-link updater2.

Costs:
$69 Evo CHRT4 (has the $17 Ram T harness included)

$48 Evo-All
$17 THAR-CHR4 T harness forbour Cummins.

$107 Evo-One (not needed, but does pop up on Fortin's website when searching by vehicle)

$41 Flash-Link Updater2


I don't see the need to spend hundreds when I spent $61, and I can always get a 2-way fob added n plug and play, which I don't think the factory system does.

Programming yourself:
It took me a couple minutes to install this. The longest part was programming it, but it was all straight forward and easy
Install the software
Upgrade the firmware
select your vehicle from the interactive menu
Go to the options tab, check or uncheck options you want,
hit flash

To turn off the lock chirp:

  1. Press and hold Lock, after 4 seconds (while still holding lock) press and hold the panic button, then release them both at the same time.
  2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7zDQ-Z3gEI&list=PL8E6A6ADB1902B132&index=21&feature=plp p_video
  3. You can also cut the wiring going from the ignition/keyless system to the horn, but I think it would be better to release the pin from the connector so you can put it back in the future and look stock.

detailed here, but I bet the color is different for our newer trucks, and I have not verified this yet. http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/show...62&postcount=8

Wiring diagrams for future use:
https://www.igotacummins.com/showthread.php?t=7260



Overhead Console Install
for ST or base models

http://www.ramforum.com/f75/adding_o...console-23296/


Mopar Parts:

Console retainer: 55365119AC

Overhead Console: 1PQ03BD1AA

3 pin connector pinout: 68064999AA

Or:
Garage Opener ONLY Console: 1PQ06BD1AA
Garage Door and Rear Slider Console: 1PQ09BD1AA
If you want to add the Compass Module: 56046062AC

Or discussion on adding a charger/ grand cherokee/chrysler 300 console with sunglasses holder if you live in a sunny place.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/#/...ge=1&_k=udkscj




OEM Aux switches (the 7 button switch bank)

I have not added mine yet but here are my notes so far

Notes:
This is to add the AUX switches where the RAM symbol filler plate is on the lower section of the dash console
Pin diagram. Between the heat/AC dials and Sasquatch switch in this pick. You can't add this if you have heated seats. I added this pick to show you the lower switches which is my favorite other switch idea so far.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMAG0760.jpg

Part #s
switch bank: 5164912AC
wire harness: 68057288AA

Pin layout and diagram
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/7970874-post56.html

of this thread
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4t...ml#post7970874


To test this place your voltmeter set to ohms
one pointer of the meter goes to pin

Notes for the project
Put in your vin, or the year, model. Then on the left side choose UPFITTERS. The Diagram choice shows the electrical schematic. Clicking on the Connectors you can choose which connector. Upfitter Connector-Aux 1 and Upfitter Connector-Aux 2 are the ones you probably want. Upfitter Connector-Aux1 is in the engine compartment. It shows the layout of the connector and identifes the pins.

Basically for the AUX1 connector: pin 1 - Aux1, pin 2 - Aux2, pin 3 - Aux3, pin4 - Aux4. This is not the ground. You still need to find a ground to use.

Bascially for the AUX2 connector: pin 2 - Aux 5, Pin 3 - GROUND.


https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extr...ew/classic.htm

15 pages on wiring etc, that I will try to condense:
http://www.ramforum.com/showthread.php?t=24778

Switches - http://www.factoryMoparparts.com/oe-Mopar/5164912ac

Hiring harness for the module: http://www.factoryMoparparts.com/oe-Mopar/68057288aa



Add a ford foldable bed extender (it has no emblems)

Posted by phone – Ford has the same width bed as Ram and I used my neighbor/ friend's truck for measurements. I have an 8ft bed and for many reason I wanted a bed extender to section off the inside of the bed. I don't need the bed extended, but if you do here is how.

Buy a Ford bed extender. I got one for $125 off of craigslist.
Put your tape measure end flat against the bed and mark 8.5" in the middle of the side post (it's not 8.5” becuase the metal end of the tape throws it off). Then from that height measure in 1 7/8" from the back edge towards the front. It won't be the middle, but when extended towards the back the extender will line up perfectly with the corner framing of the sidewalls about 1/4" from the edge so it will look good that way. With the tailgate closed it doesn't matter how it looks.

The thread size for the pivot bolt in the middle is 10m 1.50pitch. get a tap and make the threads that way. I think you can also get to the back side for a bolt from behind the tail light but I didn't need to with the threads I made.

These are the measurements my friend's Ford had so I stuck with them. I choose not to make a bottom or top notch for the push pegs you see in the picture. The weight of the gate will hold it down enough for now. I will do it when I pull out the plastic liner and spray it with bed liner. You can also make a hole in the tale gate where the yellow locking pin comes down, but I didn't need an extender, so no hole. It's a great light option for storage with the quick ability to put in sheets of plywood and sheetrock in.

https://goo.gl/photos/vdtLVCmbmikhhUs18

Friend's Ford measurements - The camera angles are off so the measurements look a little bad but regardless the numbers above work great.


I tried to get this camera angle right so you could see the measurements to make your own. If you do make a peg hole this big then you could add a nut inside with a set of long forceps or something.


Top hole for the peg latch


Random pick with the extender thread in a little and resting in my friend's truck.

Note: Our tailgate stops at the rubber bumpers so you have plenty if room with the measurements above.


Don't for get to add paint to your threads and edges of the holes. I had touch up paint and used that.




Finned Max tow package rear diff cover upgrade

Mopar part 68149259AC

Best price seen was $89 in 2013

Found one for $110 on 1/8/17
https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-pr.../product/16702




Death wobble Fixes

Just encase this ever happens to mine I wanted the links


http://dodgeramsteeringstabilizer.com/

Safe T plus steering kit 31-140
http://www.supersteerparts.com/produ...g-control.html




Heated seats

The ram seats are fairly easy to remove and install the pads. Currently I live in FL, but if we move somewhere cold I wanted to have this info.

Install - http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/4t...s-install.html

Aftermarket kit with switches
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...25-1870/winter

110v inverter/outlet

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/sh....php?t=2122882

Personally, I Added a 2013+ electrical outlet and 2012 Bezel, with $20 Amazon inverter. I used 1/8 in aluminum sheet metal as a bracket on the back to hold the bezel in place. I then added another bracket for the outlet to clip into. To fill the gap between the outlet bracket and bezel bracket I used JB weld. The pic is the bezel bracket holding the JB weld down which is holding the outlet bracket against the dash.

I used an old extension cord and stripped, soldered, then heat shrunk the wires to the outlet pins.

I cut and stripped the power wire to the inverter. Add spade connectors to the wire, Then add the wires to your switch and ground connectors, or ground to the body. My switches have spade connectors for the grounds to run the switch lights, so I added a spade splitter and then added both the original ground and the inverters ground, like in boat wiring.







Spade splitter:





Rear LED lights without making a hole in your bumper.

I didn't want to make a while in the bumper for a mount or for the surface mount LEDs. I used 2"x2" aluminum square tubing and cut it down the center and it worked great. Just use the bottom bolt to the bumper mounts. You will need wiring and a switch ran to the location but that will be under switches with relays section soon. I just used the best rated cheap lights with stainless steel from Amazon I could find.







Adding switches


The later 4th gens have a flatter surface down at the bottom of the center dash under your dials, but this is still a good place to put switches in our 2010-12 trucks, it's just not in your face as much but with this setup you can see when something is on. Cost of switches - sometimes if you buy an RV or marine panel its cheaper than buying a set or single switch with built in light, then you can add them to your flush mount panel.

I used a Blue Seas 6 gang switch mount
I found the best reviewed switch panel and out the switches into the Blue seas mount.
Cut a hole for the mount and clip it in. FYI - If you go too low the space behind the dash gets smaller

For wiring - relays mean you don't have to have high amp/wattage switches and then the switches only draw a tiny bit of power to trigger the relays under the hood. It's easier to route wiring from the engine compartment out to spots you need also. So add a pigtail with heat shrink to the cigarette lighter outlet (no real draw will be added to this original wiring bc of the relays). Send a wire for every switch to the engine compartment via the firewall boot behind the E-brake (see Very Detailed Raceme Ultra Install thread for details about this). Add ground pigtails to each relay, add positive fused wire pigtails to each relay, then add a wire from the relay to your switch, last pin is the relay to your device to be powered. So your switches will last a lifetime, relays and fuses can be easily switched out and used to diagnose and fix issues.
Pin 30= wire to the battery +
Pin 85= wire to ground -
Pin 86= wire to switch +
Pin 87= wire to device +

BTW - The small nob on the left is my sub amp volume knob hidden out of the way.


I chose these switches becuase they light up when one is on so I know. Blue light is darker in the cab at nights and I wanted the volt meter and other outlets for my boat. I'll upgrade to device specific switches later, but those are $10 a piece on Amazon or OTRATTW.com https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FQO9R4E..._RFwwzbSB9TQWE

This switch mount has no screws showing so it looks more OEM, the whole thing is one solid piece so it looks more uniform and doesn't have a gap on the border of the mount between each switch like the others do.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MMDMCE..._cJwwzbVQKS7KX

I'm going to add a fuse box but I'm currently using inline fuse holders. I like the boxes like my relay box that have the wires coming from the bottom so it fits with the design of engine compartments with all the fuses and relays on top and the wiring hidden underneath.
HELLA H84960081 6-Way Axial Single Fuse Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VUEDWA..._IVwwzbAV63NV1

Relay box with spare wires to go to newly added devices



Grid Heater Bolt of death and delete info

If you are one of the lucky ones then the bolt holding the wire to the grid heater can fall into your cylinders and kill your motor. Wiggle the wire from time to time to check for a loose bolt.

If you get an after market horn then you can drill and tap it and add an aftermarket intake heater.

Drill and tap size is m22 x 1. 25 for motorcraft and ford heaters
Motorcraft # 6E7Z-12A342-AA
Ford Part # F81Z-9N424-BA

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/....iABEgJe9_D_BwE

ICT, fleet, and other companies make grid heater delete plates or you can just cut out the grid and remove the wire on the oem part.

__________________________________________________ __________________________
Section 24




Turbo cleaning, and more

Links to DIY, parts, upgrades, pics, videos including how to clean, pics, where to buy parts, and more


Couple notes about removal

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you take off the actuator you need to mark which number of the teeth/which tooth lined up with the side of the hole (Either side) where the gear goes. It's easy and then you don't need to recalibrate it.


Drain coolant first
Taking out the elbow bend of the exhuast was pretty easy and quick and helped when I wanted to rotate the turbo to take of the actuator easily to get it out of the engine bay easier. I also took off the intake (grey side at the front, the exhuast side it the back and rusty.
I couldn't get the turbo dropped down enough to clear the upper studs to pull it out unless I took off the lower coolant hose connection on the bottom of the turbo, So just leave the coolant hose connected to the block. I also removed the oil drip flexible pipe unbolt from the turbo and pop it out of the block/top of drain pan.


I used purple power to degrease under the vain wheel and in between and used the actuator arm to move the loosen the soot and a small pipe cleaner all over, then sprayed with break cleaner from time to time. A brillow bad is what they use for turbos that the vains can come out so you can use one to scrub soot too.


Make sure the vain guise built into the exhuast side moves well and smoothly. I let the purple power sit between the guide and the housing to clean it out. Use purple power until the break cleaner runs clear when moving the vain guide/ring.


The pipe cleaner was the most useful, harbor freight has a good set for the job for $4 and I think that's where I got my mini set on a key ring.


Putting it back together is no problem just move the actuator arm to open fit it into the vain holes of the vain ring which is mounted into the exhuast side, then lower down and line up the pin and hole.


Video but with removable vains - He talks about symptoms, why they could fail, and other tricks, It's good to know how to open it, rubber mallet or some use a hammer and screw driver.





Awesome Turbo Thread with pics, parts replacement links and more:



The hardest nut/bolts were the 15mm nuts on the exhuast side of the turbo. I used my torch and pb blaster bc it's what I had. I think I read CRC brand has better capillary draw (I'll update the name if I get a chance to find it. Make sure you have a couple extensions, pipe for leverage, breaker bar, coolant etc.


Drive around then do an oil change encase any chemicals made it into the oil circulatory portion of the turbo.


Aftermarket turbo comparison:
Which Turbo Is Best For You - Upgrading Your Diesels Turbocharger - Diesel Power Magazine


$1100 Magnum aftermarket stock turbo from ADS with actuator - for the price of an actuator:
ADS 6.7L HE351VE Turbocharger 70-4012




Turbo wrench/special tool Mopar 9866A. You can add a breaker bar instead of using a pipe over a wrench: https://areadieselservice.com/diesel...oduct/99-1055/
__________________________________________________ __________________________
Section 25


Cool video playlist of some cool mods and explanations and why
More to come later on basic info about mods


Top 10 Mods videos playlist -






__________________________________________________ __________________________
Section 26


Cold Air Intakes
Videos, Why, How, Links


You will also probably see that the stock intake hose clamps break due to rust.




For just $99 - If you want to save $275 to $375 right away. If your truck doesn't have a channel from your box down to your wheel well (Chevy trucks do) I haven't checked my Cummins, then go get some sheet aluminum at the scrap yard, and rivet together a channel that goes down from our stock intake box port down to connect to the S&B Ram like seen in the S&B video below. 316 Stainless sheet and bolts with locking nuts would give you the best corrosion free setup in salty road areas. I've never used stainless rivets. The filter will catch corrosion though and you can always add new bigger rivets later as well.
Ram scoop connected to the down spout/channel through the stock wheelwell port
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZlH_leMJFe4/maxresdefault.jpg


S&B is the best bang for buck:
1.) With roughly the same increases in air flow, the S&B intake is $100 less than others, and $35 to $50 less for the ram.
2.)S&B claims 40% more air flow with the box plug box and almost 49.1% without the box plug
3.)Independent dyno testing by Thoroughbred diesel got 10% hp increase w/out plug on Cummins
4.)Independent dyno testing by ATP got 25% hp increase on a duramax
Their videos with results mentioned: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...oghbred+diesel




S&B $275
Air flow increase is stock divided by aftermarket value = 49.1% dry and 47.8% oiled
Intake: S&B 10-12 Dodge Cummins 6.7L Air Intake
Ram Part # AS-1002: $99 - Can upgrade later, on same webpage page
Item Video: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...intake+cummins
Install Video:




aFe $375
Air flow increase is stock divided by aftermarket value = 49.27%
Intake: '10 - '12 part # 54-82034
Ram: No ram available
Item Video:
Install Video: similar to S&B


Banks $385:
Air flow increase is stock divided by aftermarket value = 57% w ram
Intake: '10- '12 is Part #: 42180 http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/ba...air-intake.htm
Ram: $130 to $150 for model years 2009 or lower
Item Video:
Install Video:
Ram under the hood behind the wheel well
__________________________________________________ __________________________
Section 27


HID lights legal-style
As close as you can get to legal HID lights for $85

Warning - A lot of conversations get VERY HEATED on this subject and you should not make a comment on a thread or a forum unless you know what a HID Projector is. See links and vids below. Without a projector you will be blasting light all over the place and many forums (not just Cummins) can explain this. You need to put in a projector unless you want to piss off members here, at other forums, or the general public that lives around you. Again, don't ask questions about just installing bulbs without a projector or people will get mad at you and you will probably get pulled over - you have been warned. On the flip side many people who don't know what a HID projector is just assume someone is throwing bulbs in and they are going to be blast people; although this assumption happens less now as HID have become more common place. Again, you should not make a comment on a thread or a forum unless you know what a HID Projector is.

Projector - It cuts off the upper portion of the light and focuses it in the safe locations. The cutoff line for HIDs is actually more precise and has less washout and glare to oncoming traffic than normal bulbs/housings.

Bulbs You will need H1 bullb (NOT H13, or other oem code bulbs). You need H1 becuase it fits the projector below. See parts list

Videos:

What does a projector look like and how does it function



How to videos

Install projector I used a heat gun around the edge vs an oven


Watch this!!! - good tips


Adjust your lights the right way DO IT


Color
4300k is the BMW color with a little yellow tint and less blue but still a little, these will be less likely to get you pulled over, 5000k tend to go more blue and more chance of being pulled over, some brands add a little extra blue vs the original BMW 5000k which won't do you favors with the cops, but rather sell the company more bulbs as blue is popular with teenagers. A lot of research 100+ pages on a lot of sites and you will get into research papers even on street lights/ etc, that show a yellowish light is better on our eyes at night than a blueish light, so better for oncoming traffic. All my research for a couple days supports 4300k vs using 5000k or higher if you had to make a choice, but both will work. See my pics below of the 4300k bulbs

Wattage
I chose 35 watt bulbs vs 55 because they are super bright still at 35w, they are $20 cheaper, produce less heat - thus less chance of melting plastic or wires and blowing a fuse, 70w is less than 110w and won't draw your battery down as fast if they are on while the truck is off (for those times when you need it). Also everytime you unlock your truck the lights come on, and after you turn ur truck off the lights stay on for about 25 seconds, so it can suck some juice down without the truck on. I used the bulbs linked below and they were great for a couple years so I stuck with the same bulbs and brand.

Dual lights (high and low beam in one bulb thus only 2 headlight housings)
This harness is not for trucks with a quad light setup but is needed for dual light trucks, or you can make one and I believe I have written that below. I updated this paragraph because I got the harness after moisture messed up my homemade one and I didn't have time to make another or find all the issues. Now for the details, strap your education hat on. This is how the normal bulbs work - When the bulb is lit on low it turns on one filament in the bulb, and then lights a different filament in the same bulb when on high. How do you power one bulb with two settings (high and low wires) without the bulb turning off between when the lows stop and highs start... A capacitor solves that delay between the power sources. So, because we are using one bulb with only one brightness how do we get high and low beam? When the highs are on the wire powers the bulb and pigtails to the shield on the projector and it moves out of the way and allows all the light to shine above that cut off line. But then you only have two wires coming from the bulb positive and negative, so the low power wire and high power wires have to splice together. But, the low power will travel back up the high beam power wires and then over to the shield also. So you need a one way valve (diode) to block the low beam from traveling to the shield. Or just buy this dual light specific harness that works with shield actuated projectors. It worked great and was easy to install
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/wi...n-harness.html
I'll try and remember to add some pics when I get a chance.


Trucks with quad lights setups have it easy. Just add the projector to the low beam housings and leave the shield wires disconnected.

Fix the flicker/pulse:
The pulse mentioned in this video at :37 seconds -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8YBRov_sMU

My 2012 did not need resistors but did have dirty or pulsed power. You can determine if it's dirty power - If the lights don't flicker with the car off, the lights flicker with the car on. Maybe it's a wire also, so turn off the truck and shake the wires, if there is no flicker it's dirty power. Note: You will need two capacitors - Note: The arrow on a capacitor points to the negative terminal. Another link on the subject to read - http://www.ddmtuning.com/support/ind...ring--shut-off

Capacitors are like super-fast discharging batteries, technically with infinite resistance thus a resistor is not needed. They release stored energy for when small decreases in the power occur (dirty power). The capacitor fills the gap thus fixing the dirty power. They also charge up letting your ballasts receive a good amount of power when the truck starts if it has not been too long since they were charged (they will drain slowly over a day to days). "Despite any pulsing signals from the factory harness, the inline capacitor will store a charge and release it smoothly into the relays for uninterrupted operation." https://www.theretrofitsource.com/knowitall/wireharnesses.html/

The Capacitors you need 35volt capacitor - radio shack part #272-1020 is $4.50.
I choose the 4700uf 35v so that I could store even more power for $1.50 more. Part number 272-1022 is $5.50

Resistors for newer trucks they trick the truck into thinking a 50 to 55watt bulb is there which the Canbus system looks for. If lights flicker with the car off and on and/or throw a error then you will need resistors for HID and LED lights - such as with making your blinkers LED. The capacitor might fix all of that even in newer trucks since it has unlimited resistance. I didn't need a resistor in my 2012.
Put the resistor after the OEM plug but before the HID ballast. Place a resistor then a capacitor and heat shrink it all. Harbor frieght and advanced auto (way more expensive) both have heat shrink kits and you can step the tubing size down from the resisters size down to the spade connectors. Twist the large heat shrink closed to fit a smaller one on top and so on, adding layers to build the tiny wires up. Resistor = 6 ohm 55watt resistor, or 6 to 10 ohm 50 watt resistors (same as used for LED blinker conversions), or buy the harness mentioned a few paragraphs below.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/754962-post10.html
you can always buy a harness with these functions as well

Relay Harness
To be safe you might as well use a heavy duty relay harness, which you can build cheaper and better grade than online. You do not need to add a relay harness with 35watts but it won't hurt either because the main power to the lights will not come through the stock wiring. I would especially use a relay harness if you are going to use 55w HID bulbs, they are at the max for our trucks' wiring, they put out a lot of heat so you will need to step up the wire gauge, and you might as well shield the wires with a heat shield product as a precaution.

Other upgrade options while inside your lights
How to blacken/smoke your lenses (this seems to be the fad lately so here you go)
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...eadlight+lense


PARTS

$26 morimoto look-a-like projectors that I used for over 2 years in my last truck
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$7 - The harness you will need to make your factory H13 connector go to the H1 bulbs' connector
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


$40 - H1 bulbs for the projector -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$10 Capacitors detailed above
or
$15 resistor harness
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/RAM-ECE
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014XM064U
$30 resistor Harness
http://www.carhidkits.com/50w-resist...-pack-378.html

Butyl headlight lense sealant - https://www.theretrofitsource.com/ac...utyl-glue.html

Another source of good priced parts is DDM. DDM is a US company that drop ships direct from China to save money, but it takes 2-3 weeks which is okay if you are planning. I learned about it here: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topi...ctor-retrofit/


My pics I have the 2 headlight setup with 1 bulb that switches filaments from low to high on each side.

My lights after I aimed them (note: I'm not on level ground when I took the pic, just remembered after going to get some beer)
https://goo.gl/photos/b4y42YYTwmgP5NJz5

Front view looks oem for cops
https://goo.gl/photos/934XA6xcNkakVQr49

The high beam wires route through the existing hole but are hidden, make a pin prick in the rear seal to feed it through
https://goo.gl/photos/i9nNdkayjRkBwRdZ7

The back/wire
https://goo.gl/photos/f4F2Vdz8jZighreQ7

Harness layout, haven't added resistors/capacitors yet. I added it on the H13-H1 harness between the plug and ballast.
https://goo.gl/photos/knTjiJVwyUU1FZsq9


2 headlight Diagram plan pic soon, (quad would be way easier but requires 4 projectors, or two low beams and keep two regular halogen high beams):

5 minute diagram I made https://goo.gl/photos/hS5bmSigHdkcPRza8


The diode is a one way valve. It's needed bc the high and low beam switch both need to feed power to the HID ballast/bulb via the relay just like it fed one bulb before. However, to flip the shield out of the way for high beam only, you need the diode to prevent the low beam power from coming back up the high beam since they are both spliced in at the same spot on pin 86 of the relay. The shield draws barely any power to flip up so this diode hat worked on my bilge pump will work fine - https://www.radioshack.com/products/4-rectifier-diodes . Here is the same issue discussed and found on motorcycles w one bulb = https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37349

Note on opening the lenses:
I used a heat gun on high and circled the heat around the housing until I could slowly lift the peacies apart. This tok a long time and with a lot of presure you can crack the lense so take your time. It took about an hour for both of them. Seal it with the butyl sealant. Baking may work but I just chose to use the heat gun.

__________________________________________________ __________________________
Section 28

At the bottom of this thread are ways to add a 2nd AC compressor (makes 5-10+ CFM depending on RPM) to use as a your pump

Electric pump section:
On board air on the cheap, but still good using a cheap/reliable electric pump:

I used used Parker DOT 300+ PSI air brake hose and a well known cheap pump that can easily be upgraded later. You can then easily add a T for air bags, air horn, etc later using their prestolok fittings. Also get the $5 Parker hose cutter it's way easier to get a straight cut vs than using a razor blade or PVC pipe cutter.

My wife got me a Tusnami MF-1050 air pump for Xmas, for off road tire filling. It's the same as the MV-50 and MV-1050. There are some articles about it and I read about it in some forums. It's a cheap but good beginner pump, that can be used as a backup if you upgrade. I had a lot of the stuff except the hose to do an on board air system so I'm not sure what it would cost total. Here is a write up in how to upgrade it. Regardless if you upgrade it, it's a good pump. I just upgraded the electrical side of things. I used yellow spade connectors, and 10g wire, more info below.

I had a harbor freight 5 gallon portable tank from a boat project where I need so air on the boat. I always pick up compressor fitting and connectors. I had a random 35' hose from a bostich compressor/kit I bought years ago. I also had the wire lying around also. The only thing I had to buy was the air brake hose and connectors, so why not plumb my truck, right.

I removed the oem jack and Jack amount and used the screw down hardware to bolt down the air pump mount. My plant is to mount the jack behind the back seat or under it if it will fit with the mount. The pump fit perfect under the passenger front seat, but you loose one click (about and inch) on the seat reversing backward. The next place I was thinking about using was the hidden storage boxes in the floor bc the pump fit in there great.

I mounted the pump on 1/2" starboard for a solid mount and to raise the floor up a bit to level out the area so the back of the pump would be flush. You'll see it's not level under the seat.

I went down to Goodyear rubber/hydraulic hose store and they had Parker air brake hose. I went with 1/2" so the pump didn't have to push through such a small hose vs 1/4". They had prestolok push-to-connect fittings that had the 1/4"NPT fittings to connect to all the compressor side of things. The guy said the burst pressure in the book said 950 PSI. It didn't give a Max working PSI, but he said it should be about 300 for the max PSI. It was a $1.79 per foot and around $5 per connector.

I used 4 gauge wire from the battery to an automatic breaker, down, and along the passenger side frame. I zip tied to the other harnesess, and then up through the plastic fitting on the passenger side floor below the seat. Then to another breaker becuase I needed a safe connection for the 4guage wire to connect the pump wire. There wasn't enough room in the pump for an electrical connector that big. I redid the relay inside to a Bosch relay, and increased the wire gauge sizes in the pump as well to 10g.

I ran the prestolok push to connect 90 with 1/4NPT from the pump down through the floor and sealed it with 3m 5200. At sharp edges I used pieces of hose to slide to the spots encase of vibration/abrasion. Next, I routed the hose to a tank in the fender. I went to a metal yard and had a 1.5" strip of stainless strap cut off a sheet metal piece. The strap connected to some random bolt holes that must be there for some upgrade reason. Anyway from the tank I went into the bed of the truck near the tailgate through the pillar there that had a hole towards the top. I have an on-off valve there then a coupler in case I want to connect or disconnect the hose if it's in the way. The on-off valve will make sure it doesn't leak.

I have it pressurized to 100psi right now to watch over night for leaks. It took a couple minutes to get to that. It's a pretty impressive pump for $50

Note: If you are willing to cut back the bolt that sticks out a bunch into the rear fender wall then the tank would fit in that area, bit I didn't want to cut it.



Sent from my phone using Tapatalk




2nd Gen approach that looked cool
Adding a second AC compressor to use as a OBA compressor for 5-10+ cfm.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98...ge=1&_k=n8o8l5

3rd gen adding a second AC compressor to use as a OBA compressor for 5-10+ cfm.
https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3...c-install.html


__________________________________________________ ____
Section 29


Tips and tricks to posting on the forum


To get rid of big Amazon links that show up like and blank weird image - Go to the item, click on the reviews next to the star rating, You will still be on the main page, so now click on the number next to the Stars at the top of the review area. It will then take you to a separate link/window apart from the item listing that you can now copy/paste and post so that it looks like this below -Notice the links always say "helpful" at the end, this is how you know it's what your are going for https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scann...sortBy=helpful



instead of this (which is just the normal link to the item, but shows up weird in this forum and can screw up your post style


https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scann...ct_top?ie=UTF8

__________________________________________________ ____
Section 30

Valuble threads on 2nd gens - for ideas
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...4802?_k=7fu5x7

_______________________________
Section 31


Lockers

Why have lockers


Types of lockers explained


The Power wagon has locking difs that will be easy to swap into our trucks.

Lunchbox lockers article
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/13...tial-upgrades/

Note if the gap is too wide you will get a huge clunking sound from time to time, it's the main rod slipping through the lunchbox as it flips completely over vs just clicking.
The clicking will be unheard in our trucks vs a clunk means you need some adjusting.

For example - Inside vs outside clicking w a clunk


Sometimes you can get a big clunk if you turn with a lot of power right off the start. Reviews say if you take it off road it will break it in and you won't get the big clunking sound. It will happen more on the front as well. Also you can roll forward a tiny bit then turn, locking up on solid ground isn't good. This is another reason to get air or electric lockers if you can afford it. In YouTube search lunchbox locker to see more vids.

Off road/overland
Ronny Dahl has a lot of informative videos about upgrades, parts, tools, safety, how-toos and more. His trips look crazy fun.
https://www.youtube.com/user/RonBacardi666



_______________________________________________

Section 32

Some mounting base brackets have a tab that slides between the door. It clamps down on the top door jam. With a golf cart in the back I'm looking at racks. Here are some details for base mounts that mount in the rails of the roof not in the door jam.


https://www.ramforum.com/threads/roo...m.21262/page-3


Fit Kit #1528 (you'll need these for perfect fitment on the roof)

480 style feet (these hold the load bars and secure the fit kit to the roof)

Load bars LB58 (these are 58" bars that the basket sits on, they can be cut to proper length if too long for your liking)

And last is the basket. There are 2 to choose from......
Thule- MOAB
Yakima- load warrior
I went with the Yakima BC it was free LOL



End page 3 (used for keeping track in long posts)