Page 2
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Section 11
Stuff that happens inside the cab
What happens after you delete
Check Engine lights, codes, etc:
2010 & 2011 trucks are lucky with no CEL, derate, or limp mode from unplugging the EGR.
2012+ require a tuner to change ECM settings to unplug the EGR and DPF system.
quick note on 2012 trucks if you unplug the EGR you will get a CEL and you will eventually derate/ “loose power” in the higher RPMs until it’s fixed. Some people with a 2012 just drive around with the motor derated so in the higher RPMs it’s harder to pass on hills, and at higher speeds etc, but getting up to speed is not an issue. Perhaps this also helps with gas mileage???
Clear derate/codes after plugging the EGR back in:
Some motors in 2012 will clear the derate if your clear the codes = turn on the truck, push the throttle down three times and then turn off the truck. One person reports requiring the dealer to reset the ecm.However some reported limp mode a full major decrease in power which would require ECM reset
After EGR mechanical or digital delete:
People reported 18-21mgs and cleaner/soot-free oil changes.
Three codes can show up:
These codes say that the DPF is too hot thus no fuel is used to heat the exhaust
•P21B4 - NOX ABSORBER – OVER TEMPERATURE
•P1484 - CATALYST OVERHEAT DETECTION
•P244D - EXHAUST TEMP TOO HIGH FOR PARTICULATE FILTER RegenERATION - BANK 1
Those are all "good" codes. You can just clear them with the $20 code reader at the top of the reader list below.
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Section 12
Wired Code readers/clearing options
(wired style if you don't have a smart phone or tablet, if you do, then skip this section and get bluetooth)
Maxi Scan: - https://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiSca...sortBy=helpful
Price $16
Read: Yes
Delete: Yes
Live Monitor: No
OBDII & CAN: Yes
Notes: Many people have used this exact model for the "cheap delete"
ScanguageII: https://www.amazon.com/ScanGauge-SGI...sortBy=helpful
Price $158
Read: Yes
Delete: Yes
Live Monitor: YES
OBDII & CAN: yes
Notes: One guy said he used this
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Section 13
Bluetooth and Wifi OBDII AND CAN readers/deleters
To read, monitor, and delete using Torque app, etc apps, with Iphones, Androids, or PCs by reading OBDII & CAN. The benefits are, internet lookup in the car, takes seconds to save a log for future reference at work/home/etc and you can always look at old ones, monitors your system in real time, and more.
$22 Bafx (Android Only): Does OBDII & CAN. I already had this from a previous truck. You can't leave it connected more than 24-48 hours or it requires adding a switch- see amazon reviews for fix of the LED draining your battery. I was able to scan and delete errors, I could read a lot of stuff with this such as boost, rpm, speed, temp, etc) = https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products...sortBy=helpful
I love this BAFX, and when using toque app you have GPS speed also - if you get larger tires and the dealer option can't go that big and you don't have a tuner yet. The layout is just like the dealer apps they have and diagnosing is pretty easy - it even has a internet code lookup option and code log to save it for when you get to a computer
$27 Veepeak (Iphone & Android): Does CAN & OBDII and has a power button (can’t slowly drain your battery if you turn it off vs unplugging the BAFX) https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scann...sortBy=helpful
$20 Foseal: This may work for iphones: https://www.amazon.com/Foseal-Scanne...sortBy=helpful
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Section 14
Tuners in General
I have to have a tuner to delete the EGR in my 2012 (and all newer trucks)
So here is what I have learned so far, and the best info I have found.
Some new tuner devices do not delete, so you may need to buy an older version, see what version you are buying and it's options.
Note: Due to firewalls in the factory ECM, you will be REQUIRED to first unlock the ECM. For 2013+ trucks at the present time, the only way to do this is using a Bully Dog GT (part number 40420) tuner and the Bully Dog Unlock Cable -As per PPEI and Dales superstore clerk. UPDATE: The Raceme Ultra may unlock 2013+ it does for 2012-.
General features to look for:
On-the-fly: Tuner option can change tunes why driving.
PID list: On-board diagnostics Parameter ID, for adjustments
Custom or mass market tunes and future options if you upgrade a major compnent and the mass market tunes won't work for you
Capability to unlock the ECU
Device comes with tunes for deletes or stock?
How much for custom tune adjustments for tires/MPH, transmission tuning, or other upgrades
How much for a new set of tunes if adding racing upgrades to your truck after you already bought custom tunes?
What if you Dino later down the road and something doesn't look right? How much to adjust, and can you adjust it
Full Delete packages: look here after reading below about EFI live and the RaceMe Ultra/ warp tuning
https://freedomdieselperformance.com...sc&order=price
or
http://dalessuperstore.com/c-1034283...e-cummins.html
EFILive
Videos, Autocal vs the V2, CSP5 switch, links
Note: The more I learn, the more I realize you have three choices for the safest options - an old H&S, Raceme (Ultra or MM3), or EFI Live device (V2 or Autocal) with custom tunes. The one size fits all are not AS good if you make upgrades (gen 2 turbo swap after holset dies, etc) and the tunes cannot be changed later, thus the tuners mentioned above are the primary options. I linked a lot from ATP's site because they had an extensive list of videos to get a feel for EFIlive and also had prices for many options as low as $539 for a single tune, ( update note: which they now do not advertise for 2012+). I'm sure others will provide competitive options as well. Don't forget to ask the site sponsors and active members that are tuners. As always, I will update info & examples, as I receive it, especially on lower priced items/ good deals.
Devices:
EFI Live devices and tuning
Autocal aka Spade, Mercenary, etc: EFI Live Autocal really does seem like the best all around device that can unlock, run tunes, and data log. You could not run a tune from a different company with this device bc the autocal can only be loaded with tunes made by the original company. It also does not show realtime info like EGTs from a pyro so you would also need gauges or Edge CTS etc device to monitor. The custom tunes by some companies will have tuning integrated for your transmission Anarchy does it for $299.
The V2 device will allow you to tweak tunes if you ever want to, and to add tunes from different tuners/companies.
CSP5 switch: For fast on-the-fly switching
EFI explained by Trucktrend - http://www.trucktrend.com/features/1...filive-tuning/
Lots of vids on EFI - https://www.youtube.com/user/ATPTrucks/playlists
COSTS:
$539 - Autocal w 1 tune to delete - http://atptrucks.com/efilive-autocal...ngle-tune.html
$719 - Autocal w 5 tunes - http://atptrucks.com/efi-live-autoca...5-9l-6-7l.html
$947 - V2 with 5 tunes - http://atptrucks.com/efilive-flashsc...atptrucks.html
$65 - CSP5 switch: http://atptrucks.com/efilive-cummins...le-tuning.html
RaceMe ultra device, monitoring, and warp tuning
I chose this tuner because it has pyro/EGT monitoring capabilities for about the same cost as EFI live w trans tuning. It's future proof for me as in I can also add custom tunes from multiple people vs the Autocal. This option is great especially if OEM parts fail like and turbo and transmission and I want to upgrade them and the tuning. I had a turbo fail at 16k miles, so I don't want to be stuck with a limited tuner which is also why I liked the V2 as an tuner. It seems like a lot more money, but after you buy trans tuning for EFI Live you only are paying a couple hundred more to get the option for a monitor to read OBDII stuff and pyro, which save the costs of gauges or a edge CTS. The zero hp option with transmission tuning was exactly what I was looking for, I can just delete the DPF and egr system, and have the safest possible setup for my transmission and engine. I'm going for 400k miles and for now, zero increase in HP sounds safe. This device cannot work unless you do the DPF delete, otherwise it will clog the DPF/egr system, but the butterfly can be left in & unplugged. It reads your truck and comes with free tunes you can use until you want custom tuning. Double R deisel can do the "Warp" custom tuning and is a site sponsor, so support him.
Details from RaceMe's website:
For stock transmissions. (Not for Aisin equipped trucks) Only for 2010-2016 models.
Complete means:
1) Raised line pressure in all Fwd gears AND during the shifts.
2) Increased shift firmness for less slip in the clutches.
3) Changed shift points at WOT in all gears @ 3000 RPM.
4) 6th gear unlock and downshift to avoid the massive torque and make the transmission last longer.
For Aftermarket transmissions (Not for Aisin equipped trucks) Only for 2010-2016 PU models.
1) Linepressure 225psi
2) Line pressure rises faster now with altered throttle position value to get the higher pressure before the high torque is entering transmission.
Modern Design with Touch Screen Functionality And Range Of Gauge Monitoring Options
Includes Necessary Hardware For Unlocking 2013+ Which Is Done As Part Of The Program
No Special / Complicated Unlock Procedures Required, Connect Necessary Cables And Install Tune!
Tune Uses Latest High Speed Transfer, Usually Takes 7 Minutes Max!
Monitor Comes With User Defined Layouts/ Dashboard
Memory Supports All Files From 2007 And On
No Reloading / Changing Files Required For Installing On Different Year Models, All Inclusive
Updateable Free via Latest Software Downloads From Our Website
Updatable With Customer Friendly Update Using MicroSD, Simply Load The Update File Onto Card, Reinsert And Update Unit
Disables Entire EGR By Turning Off Without Removing Any Parts ( Hard Part Removal Recommended And Supports Removal Of Entire EGR System Including Valve And Cooler With No Trouble Codes)
Read / Clear Diagnostic Trouble Codes
Disable The DPF/DEF System And ALL Related Sensors – No Sensors Required To Be Plugged In Or Installed In Race Exhaust
(DPF = Diesel Particulate Filter)
(DEF = Diesel Exhaust Fluid. – also referred to as Urea)
Late Injection Events (Post Injection) Is Disabled On All Tunes
Speedometer Recalibration For Use Of Non-Stock size tires
Remove / Adjust Top Speed Limiter
Tune engine HP increases of up to 200HP in 5 stages (NOTE: Power increase maximum differs between model years)
EGT sensor optional accessory to monitor accurately up to 2200 degrees F
Stage 0 has stock power without DEF/DPF/EGR and no options, simply stock for the careful user
End User Customizable Injection Timing For Better Economy And/Or Power
Special ECM Recovery Functions In The Event Of A Programming Sequence Being Disrupted Or Ending With A Fault
· Warning Use the tuner only after removing DPF System Warning
Ultra settings/ Notes from tuners, a section in progress
Franz says that using a higher setting with a soft foot on the pedal will give you better MPG. I'm clarifying this a little
RT menu at the top of the screen is how you change Real Time aka on-the-fly tuning
My MPG changes using the dash numbers/estimate, on flat land, with cruise control set - for comparison so that as many variables that I can control are not changed, ratherjust the tuning options. Note: While the dash estimate is often called the lie-o-meter if I stick with that constant then atleast we would know a percentage increase or decrease for comparison. The truck: 2012 automatic, EGR & DFP delete w downpipe and DPF pipe, and bed cover.
100% Stock setup no deletes or tuner @ 70mph = 18mpg
Ultra 60HP @ 45mph is 1300 to 1400rpm (5th gear) = mpg
Ultra 60HP @ 50mph is 1700rpm (5th gear) = 21.5 mpg
Ultra 60HP @ 60mph is rpm ( th gear) = mpg
Ultra 60HP @ 70mph is rpm (6th gear) = mpg
page 51 notes: https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...-Tuning/page51
- Strongly think about head studs as you approach the 200HP setting and run 29* timing or more.
- 120HP with 29* timing is kinda border line. Run 23* timing with the 120 HP setting to be safer
Vehicle Installation and Ultra firmware upgrades and more - here is the link to my detailed notes w/ pics when I Installed the Ultra and updates since then: https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...283#post70283
H&S
Needs to be unlocked, and programed with custom tuning. H&S is no longer in business so stock tuning on the device will not be updated with things like transmission tuning vs stock tuning with the RaceMe Ultra. It's is a good device and has a lot of options for programming from tuners. I will update this if someone sends me info or if I come across something interesting. I just wasn't interested in it for the price vs what you get, sorry.
"H&S tuned trucks, blew a fair share of head gaskets. Partly because of their aggressive turbo tuning option that raised boost and drive pressures super high at a low engine rpm which in turn jacked cylinder pressures super high which is what blows head gaskets. The other part where guys who used the defueling features of the old mini maxx tuners which would pull fuel out but leave timing still jacked up high...which causes high cylinder pressures as well."
Other Tuners/tunes
2.)$495 SMarty Jr Videos, shared member files, links
Note: only used version can be used to add files and I read the ME can as well.
http://ktperformance.net/i-8434232-m...l-cummins.html
Tuner knowledge base:
raceME,
Model: RaceME DPF/EGR Delete Tuner
Price: $899
Preloaded tunes: 4 Are the good, dangerous, just right
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: ?
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: 4 tunes, 67guzzler switched H&S for this, post ignition, speedo adjust
Cons: ?
Links
raceME
Model: RaceME Ultra
Price: $1500
Preloaded tunes: 10
Unlocks ECM: Not hard unlock for '13-'16, not sure about 2010-12
Can add custom tunes later on: "will be capable of utilizing a custom tuning platform"
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: Custom, can change tune while driving,
Cons: Cost
Links: https://freedomdieselperformance.com...8ykaAhj48P8HAQ
RaceME Ultra Update and Upcoming RaceME Custom Tuning: https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...-Custom-Tuning
MADS Smarty Jr
Model: Smarty Jr
Price: $495
Preloaded tunes:4
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: No
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:? Only old used ones delete the EGR or DPF. new ones don't
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: simple
Cons: limited, new ones don't delete EGR
Smarty ME
Models known to work
Price:
Preloaded tunes:
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: ?
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros:
Cons:
Bully dog - https://www.amazon.com/Bully-Dog-404...mins+bully+dog
Model: GT platinum
Price: $595
Preloaded tunes:
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: ?
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:? No EGR delete
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: ?
Cons: ?
Notes need a cable
Bully dog unlock cable https://www.amazon.com/Bully-Dog-422...S3PWSTAG5GXVAJ
H&S
Model H&S mini Maxx
Price:
Preloaded tunes: 4
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: Yes
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: Preloaded with 4 tunes, can add custom tunes later
Cons: Price, locked out from adding more? No
Notes:
Anarchy 2010-2012 6.7 CUMMINS
Model Mercenary Delete Autocal
Price: $959
Preloaded tunes: 5 tunes
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: Yes
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:?
Pros: Preloaded with 5 tunes, custom later, can do trans tune
Cons: Price, Require CSP5 switch for "on the fly"
Notes: transmission tune shifts transmission faster between gears
Motor Ops
Model: EFI Live
Price:
Preloaded tunes: 5
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: Yes
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: Preloaded with 4 tunes, can add custom tunes later
Cons: On the fly,
Notes:
XRT
Model: XRT Pro
Price:
Preloaded tunes: 4
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: Yes
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: Preloaded with 4 tunes, can add custom tunes later
Cons: Price, locked out from adding more? No
Notes:
Edge
Model: Edge Juice CTS2 (with attitude $979)
Price: $679 (with attitude $979)
Preloaded tunes: 5
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: Yes
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc: speedometer
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: Preloaded, monitors a lot of extra sensors you can add
Cons: Price, locked out from adding more? No
Notes:
Gearbox Z
Model:
Price:
Preloaded tunes: 4
Unlocks ECM: ?
Can add custom tunes later on: Yes
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc:?
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen:
Pros: Preloaded with 4 tunes, can add custom tunes later
Cons: Price, locked out from adding more? No
Notes:
Duramileage
Model: ***-0713DC
Price:$530
Preloaded tunes: 1
Unlocks ECM: No - no footprint on the ECM
Can add custom tunes later on: No
Can turn on/off things EGR, mirror blinkers, etc: No
Best dash mpg reading on highway ever seen: States +3 to 5 mpg
Pros: plug and play to fuel rail
Cons: weak all around
Notes:
Random notes to add above
XDP also has good deals especially With the DIESEL10 online coupon.
Not so cheap delete of everything = $1064 or $965
$200 for the Sinister EGR delete (plates tubes, bolts etc)
$150 for the Delete pipe w/o bungs
$570 for the tuner.
$45 Glacier CCV delete kit (9000 miles and turbo was already oily!)
$99 EGR Butterfly tube replacement tube from Sinister Diesel for. (or free just take the screws out of the butterfly)
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Section 15
Monitors/ gauges
pyro is needed to watch the engine or exhaust temp
Fuel Pressure Snubber is needed to prevent damage to the fuel pressure sensor
Digital guages
Analog guages
Temp guages
Fuel pressure sensors
Column guage kit
gauge pods
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Section 16
Tires
Update - I found out the same tire can come in the snow flake mountain symbol version or normal and the mt/snow symbol means softer rubber so the sipes can grip better. The non snow flake duratracs were great and last 45k+ miles. They were way better than my Nittos that lasted 20k miles. The forest service uses duratracs here but they weren't in stock so I got Ko2 and they are good so far. Discount tire matches a printed costco quote if they aren't in stock. I moved to a snowy place and went to the KO2 w a snow flake. Just remember if you dont need snow tires, the versions w/out the snow flake will last longer d/t harder rubber, but grip less on snow and ice with the stiffer sipes.
Oh, and get E rated not D
Offset is the line of the mounting from the centerline of the rim. +44 mm is the line at 44 mm away from the engine or towards the outside of the rim. -17mm is 2.4 inches the other direction towards the engine so it would push the tire out 2.4 inches from the stock edge of the rim currently.
OEM = +44
for 35s = +18
for 37s = -6 to -17
Tire size calculator/ numbers
Today everyone looks like they are metric up until 35 inch tires most of the time. Tacoma tire calculator will give you the diameter and width in inches for something like a 285/75/R16 like I had :
https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc
Then on to 35s, they come in 12.5 and 13.5 widths, but rarely are tires exactly the measurements they state, anyway read below for more about widths and how they affect mpg etc. You need narrower to mount large tires w no lifts.
Ratings:
Ply is the old capacity rating 10,12,14 ply
Letters D, E, & F are old also and correspond to 10,12,&14
However, you really want to look at the load index or capacity of the tire in lbs. Below is Nitto's and notice that the D, E, and F are about the same capacity. Now don't get me wrong here it's hard to find a 37 inch tire that holds that much weight so it must have thicker side walls than a 37 that is D rated, but always pay attention to the 127q and 128q thats your index to lbs the 3970lbs and 3860lbs. q is the speed =99mph| 35x12.50R18LT F 128Q |
217130 |
18.3 |
34.76 |
12.52 |
8.5-(10.0)-11.0 |
3970 |
@ |
80 |
74.11 |
| 37x11.50R18LT D 127Q |
217660 |
18.3 |
36.77 |
11.42 |
7.5-(9.0)-10.0 |
3860 |
@ |
65 |
76.63 |
| 37x12.50R18LT E 128Q |
217260 |
18.3 |
36.77 |
12.52 |
8.5-(10.0)-11.0 |
3970 |
@ |
65 |
83.39 |
| Speed Rating |
Miles/Hour |
Km/Hour |
|---|
| Q |
99 mph |
160 km/h |
| R |
106 mph |
170 km/h |
| S |
112 mph |
180 km/h |
| T |
118 mph |
190 km/h |
Update about larger tires w my plan after what I found: I live 11 miles from an off road park and here is what I found after a few weeks of researching larger tires, youtube has the best visuals to what I am writing so see the videos below and others from those top 2 . I found that you can get 35 inch tires that are 12.5 wide (not the 13.5 wide) under a stock 2500/Cummins if you get wheels with a +18mm offset with minimum +25mm. Video 2 got 37s under his truck with -6 offset, and video 1 below is a -17, and they trimmed thier plastic inside the wheel well and the pinch welds See the video with the Power wagon below which come with about a 2 inch lift stock. If it was me I would have pull the plastic out, trim the 1/2" off the pinch welds and put the liner back in and heat it with a heat gun like kydex and just push and form the plastic that was bulged out at the pinch welds back out of the way. Then you have more rust protection, worse case you cut it out anyway. This is the cheapest way to get 35s or 37s, but I don't want a lift bc I need to get ATV, golf carts, bikes, and etc in the bed and it's hard already with 33s. If you take a look at Thurens website you will find that any lift under 4 inches does nothing for the size of tire you can fit under our wheel wells due to the shape. You need the offset to push the tires out so they don't hit the control arms and trim to allow for the edge of the tire when it's rotated. Our trucks are a +44 offset stock so hubcentric spacer would also work if you get one more than an inch wide. This is the basics I pulled out for my purchase notes
Details from others: I plan to get a similar setup to others - A cheap set of spare wheels that I can switch for the weekends and have my old stock wheels with Nitto Highway tires for towing on OEM rims. American racing ATX or equivalent $150ish wheel w/ size 17x9 or 18x9 with roughly a -6 to -17 offset encase I want 37s one day. 44mm is 1.7 inches so at -17 thats a 61mm or 2.4" extension of the tires outward. Off roading fender flares should would work well. Then a cheap set of 35/12.5/R17 or R18 tires - The Ironman All country MT tires are $170 each. I have read a lot off offroad threads about these tires and many people are happy and have found no issues with them. Now, don't get me wrong, this setup will not be the safest for towing or daily driving. A set of F rated Nitto hybrid ridge grapplers on stronger wheels would be a better daily driver/towing setup that could also go off road, but that would cost more than double my weekend crawler setup. However, with my shop I can change out my tires in minutes, so select based on your needs. Remember it's the offset that pushes the tire out in the optimal position so that when turning the tires don't rub a level kit is not needed. If you do want to level it but tow, put airbags in the back to prevent towing sag. There is a whole world build around this so watch youtube videos and read up and compare, but that's the summary of my plan and stuff I have found. If you wanted a super rock crawler/ overland type truck then look at Fab four has a Open fender system to get 37+ tires with no lift. That would still allow you to easily load ATVs, sidexsides, etc into the bed, and tow without a lifted truck. AEV also has some larger beefy fender flares you could use to cut away the fender for larger tires. Thuren's website was the most detailed for +18 offset wheels.
SRTMush gave me the basis for my plan so check out the couple videos on 37s w/no lift:
NOTE these are the exact tire with the correct lug, bore, etc
American racing brand = https://www.americanracing.com/wheel/32695/ax201
Black = AX20179080712N
Bronze middle = AX20179080612N
Check out all of Iwrockers videos, he has a couple videos in his playlist of his 37s with no lift:
Another level (2.5") with 37s again I'm not sure why people cut, vs using a heat gun and molding the plastic is beyond me.
Another video on fitting 37s
Updates about spacers aka adapters
Price about $300
Steel: There are Stahl/steel steel spacers used for Duallys from BORA which are safer than aluminum. Also for $800 you can get steel spacers from Goeske.
Aluminum: There are 6061 aircraft grade spacers made by Bora and Spidertrax
The three affordable spacers are around $300 are used off-road and are in many articles as the only options you should use for adpaters/spacers for a few reasons. Right now I won't get into the $800 steel spacers when there are $280 steel spacers.
1.) Better grade materials than ebay or Amazon brands esp when looking at aluminum.
2.) Steel is obvious = 1045 carbon steel vs 6061 aluminum.
Hubcentric = These three spacers are hubcentric and our tires are hub centric. Watch a YouTube video on hubcentric wheels. They are better for less vibration/centering, safer vs just having lug nuts holding the wheel pressure, etc. So if you want to keep the oem wheel then you need hubcentric spacers.
A 2.5 spacer will get you close to that 2.4" (61mm) mentioned above for the 37s to fit. A 2 inch spacer will be 12.7 mm less so that is 48.3mm which is a -4.3mm offset. 2" spacers should work, but the two setups in the videos above we're an offset of -6mm & -17mm, not -4 offset so don't fry me if it rubs 2mm more.
My thoughts:
Now, spacers piss some guys off and the threads go on and on, and they have good arguments. The guys who talk about the good brands above vs cheap ones that fly off, along with professional magazines articles have a good point, in that, they aren't that bad if you get the right ones. I get it, however for weekend fun/off roading I have another option for you to think about. My plan with the second set of cheap tires and wheels may be a better way to go. A set of cheap off road wheels will be $150 a piece. So for $320 more than the $280 spacers you would get 4 new wheels for a total of $600. Mount the mud tires to the new wheels. Then you can swap the mud tires for weekend fun and have all the clearances you need. Come Monday you can have your semi used road tires for towing -esp long distances, saving gas, and a quieter ride, and less wear on your hubs/etc. This works if you have a solid set of tires currently but are planning ahead, not if you need new tires now. Just an idea.
Also another thought. With the Ironmans, if you get 20k miles you get new tires sooner. With Toyo MTs you may get 40k miles for twice the price, but the last 20k on them is on a worn tires which would suck off road. With the iron man's you get thicker nubs more often. Watch custom offsets' playlist "Sh!t I didn't know" and see the one about the cheap vs better MT tires. Again, If you have a second set for off-road then they should last a long time though. Look at hybrid tires if you just want the cool looks, long mileage, w a warranty, and if you are an asphalt and dirt roads person.
Cheap vs good tires, 30 minutes of all the details about why cheap isn't always bad, mileage, warranty, etc for MT tires. FYI - their prices seems higher than a local 4x4 or tire shop. See bleepin Jeeps' video below about cheap mud tires" = $300 cheaper than these guys.
custom offsets' playlist to learn more:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...cDlAFD5E4oOeWW
Bleepin Jeeps' cheap Jeep playlist shows how suspension parts work, etc. Watch the video "I bought cheap tires" then watch the others to learn more.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...xzVFVg-CpMyUAx
Rhonny Dahl is great at explaining off roading, parts, gear, safety, and more. His trips look crazy awewome.
https://www.youtube.com/user/RonBacardi666
Original info about slightly larger tires but minimizing mpg:
All terrain or AT tires are a mix for highway driving and a little more knobby for dirt vs MT which are mud tires and make more noise and suck down more gas. There are a few that fit the stock rims, look good, are oversized, but don't rub with stock lift, and don?t drain the MPG ? Tire size =width/height/wheel-radius = 275/75/17 or 275/75/r17. If you want bigger looking tires right away with out a lift 275/75/17s fit the stock wheels and are wide enough to look good, but not too wide to decrease mpg a lot, nothing is more narrow for the 17? wheels and still 33" or more.
My reasoning for the three below you really don't need to read this but I chose these after all the research I did
I tried to find tires that looked better that the tiny stock tires and didn't drop the MPGs, and were knobby looking like MT aka offroad tires. So your choices are then AT or all terrain tires. The first two listed below make your tires roughly 33?. They are very close to the overall diameter or height of the newer 20? rims/tires running on new trucks today, which are mostly 265/60/r20 wich is about an inch narrower and I think it was 1/2" taller. The more narrow the better mpg due to friction, trust me I read it dozens of times all over threads and articles. But I also didn't want a tiny width tire. I'm okay with the stock tires you see on the newer more expensive line of trucks. Notice the width below of 275 is very close to the fuel saving widths of newer trucks running 265, but you need a bigger side wall on the 17? rims to make up for the smaller rim. However, it doesn't look weird though, because it looks like a big off-road tire esp if you use the Duratracs. I spent an entire day and a few more hours that week searching for a 255 or 265 width tire with a side wall greater than 75 or 80 but nothing like that is made in AT tires. Also these 3 fit our rims.
Update: Discovery ST Maxx is a AT & MT combination that looks pretty Agressive and also comes in 285/75/17. There is no mileage warranty buy reports say you could get 60k w the type of rubber. Tirereviewteam seems pretty thorough. http://tirereviewteam.com/cooper-dis...t-maxx-review/
Tire Basics:
Many reasons to use narrow: Expeditions West: Tire Selection for Expedition Travel
PSI:
add higher psi for better mpg after deletes some have said they got 20+mpg on 80 PSI
lower psi to grip boulder/rock edges
Ratings you want for Ram 2500
E sidewall rating = 10 ply/ 80 PSI what you want
D side wall rating = 8 ply/ 65 PSI still works
Load index: Tire Tech Information - Load Range / Ply Rating Identification
?Toyo Open Coountry A/T 2 = $250 275/75/17s with E rated 3,195 lb load, 50k mile warranty, about 33? tire = https://www.treaddepot.com/#!product...Fitment/352790
?Nitto Grapplers(Toyo subsidiary) = $250, 275/75/17, E rating, 3750 lb load 50k mile warranty = about 33?tires: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Terra-Gra...17-10/43081752
?Goodyear Duratracs - $305, 315/75/17, but D rated, 3197 lb rating, no mileage warranty, but then you get up in the 300+ widths you loose MPG, duractracs = 1.5 to 2 mpg less reported and no mileage warranty. I just chose these for an AT tire with larger width, but other brands exist. They look way beefier like an MT tire, more knobby looking on the sides but with highway-ish treads, and an inch wider = about 34? tire. The delete below will give you that mpg back.
Discovery ST Maxx member review vs Nitto HDs is interesting:
I'll try and listen for my Nittos as well, I have the Dura Grappler Highways, but I haven't noticed them. When I had the dealer put them on I forgot to tell them Terra Grappler not Grappler Highway, but they still look better than stock and the dealer was a friend so I didn't complain for all his effort. They are just not as aggressive on the sidewall, but maybe quieter too.
Originally Posted by
Loki223
They are actually really quiet. i drove around with the window down yesterday on the highway trying to hear them. and to be honest there were a couple times i thought i did, then i realized it was a rig i was getting close to in the other lane that was singing the song of the tire people. So far i'm happy with them, definitely more traction then the Nittos that were on the truck, and quieter too. those Nittos would sing like i was at an opera, and i've honestly never had that bad of traction out of anything else in all road conditions then the Nitto HD grapplers that came with my truck. And considering they lasted under 20k, i'd never recomend them to anyone.
And i suppose i should thank @
Discount Tire for taking care of me and getting me hooked up. dealt purely with the local store, but they handled me great and had the best price in town and even beat online prices for the tires without me asking. The first quote i got from 'em was better then any where else so i just kinda handed them my money and said take care of it. LOL
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Section 17
Fuel filters
The caterpillar kits are great, it's easier to find replacement filters and easier to swap out than the one inside the engine compartment. The filters cost $7 to $12 depending on brand, vs $80 for the oem filter cartridge every 15k miles. This kit comes with the bracket that fits our trucks exactly, curved return pipe, new mini pipe cutter, and other things that add up if you are thinking about building your own. Also all the parts are there and you don't have to spend time driving around town for filters at cat, connectors at home depot, cutting the bracket, etc. They are $250 The BEST Cummins/Duramax CAT Fuel Filter Kit Available
One guy built one from scratch for $195 (NAPA Gold 4770 Mounting Base will work also): http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3r...ter-guide.html.
video of kit install
There are other kits with stronger fuel pumps too if your tuning and racing demands it. It can also remove air from the fuel to get better fuel delivery as they put it. The 6.7L has an in-the-tank fuel pump and it doesn't fail as much as the older trucks did.
Fass or Airdog Systems
Exlanation animation:
Fass Install but 2004:
Airdog Install 4th gen -
Mopar Extreme Duty Fuel Filter Kit:
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/sh....php?t=1970977
Fleece:
Fuel filter delete -
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Section 18
Studs
Install notes:
Do one bolt at a time so the head doesn't move
While your in there you may as well set valve lash. From reading - these things are all over the spec range when checked.
Install pics: https://www.igotacummins.com/content...d-Stud-Install
http://www.dieselworldmag.com/insura...cylinder-head/
stud lubrication for nuts:
https://www.amazon.com/ARP-100-9910-...NQ1WNHQMDT9HBP
ARP Diesel 2000 series 
these have worked in 800hp trucks if you want to save a few bucks
$450
200,000 psi 23.1% less psi strength than 625s
ARP 2000 alloy
http://www.xtremediesel.com/arpdiese...t247-4202.aspx
ARP 625s I you are using the race tunes on your tuner
$1182
260,000 psi abour 1/4 stronger thans the 2000s
ARP CA625+
ARP Diesel Custom Age 625+ Head Stud Kit 247-4204
Other less used options:
ARP bolts w 2 stud Main kit
$282
200,000 psi
ARP same 2000 alloy but mostly bolts only 2 studs
https://sinisterdiesel.com/i-1610022...ifkaAgna8P8HAQ
A1 Brand H11 Studs (check diameters, there may be new sizes 12mm or 14mm)
$680
240,000 psi/
H11 alloy
A1 Technologies H-11 Head Studs 98.5-12 5.9L / 6.7L Cummins
A1 brand 1722 studs (check diameters, there may be new sizes 12mm or 14mm)
$485
215,000 psi/
1722 alloy
A1 Technologies 1722 Head Studs 98.5-12 5.9L / 6.7L Cummins
Notes:
Thanks goes to Cumins_Diesel_Guy for PMing me some stud data and help
End page 2 (used for keeping track of long posts)
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