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Hey fellas I just got a 25 foot boat that is on an older trailer that has surge brakes. I was trying to get it in my drive way and I was struggling I'm guessing because the surge brakes were actuated because of the weight of the boat getting push up the incline. Is there anyway to temporarily disable the brakes??
2016 Tradesman 6.7 manual. Pile of parts waiting to be installed.
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2016 Tradesman 6.7 manual. Pile of parts waiting to be installed.
Sorry @Homebrew, but I'm unsure of the braking system you have.
I was wondering, if you just unplugged the electrical wire from the truck, doesn't that disengage the entire trailer braking system ?
Jim
2006 ~ 2500HD, Big Horn Edition, 5.9, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Kit, 60 gal main tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel Filter System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear end covers and trans pan, 285 x 70 x 17
"Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children’s children what it was once like in the United States, where men 'were' free." ~ Ronald Regan
Cummins7 liked this post
It has surge brakes where the force of the trailer pushing against the truck as it stops engages the trailer brakes. I've been doing some research looks like there is either a manual or electric lock out that will keep the brakes from engaging when backing up. Looks like I'm going to be ponying up for a new coupler as the one I have looks pretty worn out.
2016 Tradesman 6.7 manual. Pile of parts waiting to be installed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2016 Tradesman 6.7 manual. Pile of parts waiting to be installed.
Opps ... never had one like that. Someone else needs to speak up.
But is it surface rust only ?
Seems it would be advantageous to strip it apart and see if cleaning it up would help before replacing.
Jim
2006 ~ 2500HD, Big Horn Edition, 5.9, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Kit, 60 gal main tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel Filter System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear end covers and trans pan, 285 x 70 x 17
"Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children’s children what it was once like in the United States, where men 'were' free." ~ Ronald Regan
Should be able to break that brake line and either plug it or something. Basiclly it's like a foot brake. If you can take away the hydrolics it won't work.
2014 3500 (DRW) 68RFE 3:73s . mirror light mod. 20% tint front 5% tint on rear. cattleman front bumper,running boards and headache rack. puddle light mod with blue leds. RGB lights in footwells and grill. Mostly debadged. 52" light bar and a 20" on the bumper. Smoked tail,cab and side marker lights. Black bezel headlights. Led lights where possible. 37 trail Graps. 2.5 inch leveling kit. Steering box brace. Dual steering stabilizers. MM3 and "WARPED" by Double R Diesel!
AnOldBiker liked this post
What about a ball valve in the line?
Thomas-2012 Saddle Brown Pearl CCSB
2012 CCSB Saddle Brown Pearl... DRD tuned
there should be a solenoid that locks out the brakes when you put the truck in reverse and the back up light come on
as for the rust that is not bad
if you want a quick fix to back it in to the yard wedge a block of wood between the hitch and the trailer frame
Clutch liked this post
I was able to strap a 2x4 in between the couple which "disabled" the brakes. I ordered a new coupler with a manual disengagement mechanism. Gotta save up for new brake assemblies as I'm not sure of the condition of the current ones.
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2016 Tradesman 6.7 manual. Pile of parts waiting to be installed.
Hulk liked this post
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