Has nobody done this swap? Im interested in it being that its the middle ground between the 4.10 and the 4.56
Thanks: 0
Likes: 1
Has nobody done this swap? Im interested in it being that its the middle ground between the 4.10 and the 4.56
2016 Ram 3500 CCLB, BD Steering Brace, BDS Dual Steering Stabilizer, MM3 Warp tuning by DRD w/mm3 pyro, Flo-Pro 5" TBE w/muffler, ARP 625's, Flo-Pro EGR Delete
You'll want to double check to make sure you can get 4.30's for the front diff. I know when I looked into swapping my gears a couple years ago no good companies were making 4.30 ring and pinions for the AAM 9.25" diff so I stuck with 4.56's.
I was able to find a complete Kit, front and back, with all the little goodies:
http://www.justdifferentials.com/category-s/3260.htm
The issue it raises now, is the ring gear is a 11.8" which dodge started using on the max trailer optioned trucks (this is all information, which i learned off the internet, so take that for what its worth), but the Regular 2500/3500's have a 11.5" rear diff (which i believe i have)
"brandonjansenRe: 4.30 gear swap
You'll want to double check to make sure you can get 4.30's for the front diff. I know when I looked into swapping my gears a couple years ago no good companies were making 4.30 ring and pinions for the AAM 9.25" diff so I stuck with 4.56's."
Brandon, you run 37's, iirc? I agree with the choice to go with 4.56, But i plan on not going above a 35, so I think if the 4.30 is out, I'll do the 4.11.
2016 Ram 3500 CCLB, BD Steering Brace, BDS Dual Steering Stabilizer, MM3 Warp tuning by DRD w/mm3 pyro, Flo-Pro 5" TBE w/muffler, ARP 625's, Flo-Pro EGR Delete
Yeah you should still have the 11.5" rear end I believe. I think it's only the dually's that have the 11.8" from what I've read.
If you are sticking with 35's I'd honest recommend 4.10's at most. I do run 4.56's with 37's but honestly I find it to be geared a little low at times. It's great for in the city and when towing but on the highway I feel like I run out of "comfortable" rpm before I'd like to. If I had to do it over again I probably would have gone with 4.10's with the 37's.
I'd also recommend AAM or Yukon gears over Nitro. I've heard of a few guys having issues with the Nitro gears on the 4th gen Ram's.
For those I've come across more information. I was able to locate 4.30 front and rear gears, from AAM, and the front diff is reverse cut.
Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk
2016 Ram 3500 CCLB, BD Steering Brace, BDS Dual Steering Stabilizer, MM3 Warp tuning by DRD w/mm3 pyro, Flo-Pro 5" TBE w/muffler, ARP 625's, Flo-Pro EGR Delete
Awesome information! I hope you can reply to this older thread as I have been researching like crazy to get an educated answer to my questions.Originally Posted by kreklevich
I have a 2015 Ram 3500 single rear wheel with a 11.8 rear axle, so I'm told as per my VIN. I have the Aisin transmission. My truck is lifted 6" with the BDS 4 Link Long Arm Suspension. Running 37x13.50R20 tires with 20x10 rims. Weight of truck is 10,600 with my fuel tank and tools in bed.
I have been told several different gear sizes. So I'm asking for help with someone who has a truck like mine that can tell me what to get. 2 mechanics say 4.56, 1 says 4.10, and 2 say to run 4.30 gears.
When I calculate it out I get right near 4.30 gears to get my truck back to stock output of the 32" tires and 3.42 gears. I want to save my transmission and get the seat of the pants feel back that I had when leveled and running smaller tires. I drive mostly under 75 mph, tow some, and occasionally run 83 mph on the interstate for 250 miles at a time through MT. My truck is used in the oil field as a supervisor truck. So a lot of under 40 mph driving off road.
P.S. Ray at DRD said he would run
4.56 if I couldn't get the 4.30 gears. I definitely trust his opinion.
HOW MUCH FOR 4.30 OR 4.56 GEAR SWAP?
Raceme Ultra w/ Warp Tuning and 5" TBE W/ 7" Tip
FASS 150 gph AFE Stage 2 CAI
Pusher 3.5" Blade Runner and Intercooler Kit
Stage 2 GDS 73/14 Turbo with a BD Manifold
Flo Pro EGR Delete ARP 425 studs
6" BDS 4 Link Long Arm Suspension
37x13.50R20 w/ 20x10 Fuel Striker Rims
Curious how you got the 10,600 for the weight of your truck
Polaraco liked this post
Might be GVW
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
The only thing I can tell you is the AAM aftermarket gears are cut different than the OEM. They tend to howl until they break in. I used Justdiff several times and have done several of these rears. Good company, but GM rear parts. In fact, I think there's a thread about it from 3 years ago. Good luck
You'll need a dial indicator. If it has a shaft clamp, get a 6" bolt and turn it down to fit the shaft adaptor. Set for .005 back lash. It's the quietest.
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
That's what I was thinking. A single wheel 3500 should be around 8000lbs or so. I know my CC F350 dually was 8630lbs with me in it. I'm not that big of a guy
A 10k + pound truck is getting into the Kodiak, 5500, F550 series trucks. Our style trucks generally have heavy beds on them
As for the gearing so no issues and they're common. Just go with the 4.56
With 37's that's kind of an odd middle of the road range trying to get the best ratio. Personally I don't use them unless I go over 40" but that's generally in mud
Posting Permissions
Register To Reply
Bookmarks