Saskabush build thread

[kreklevich]

After some research and much head scratching, I think I've decided on which tuning software i'm going to run. Now to research if there's any easy or essential transmission mods I need to support this.

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[kreklevich]

cummins passanger angle.jpg

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[kreklevich]

well i tried to upload another picture, but its how they say..... "the computer, she wont chooch" any way, it just showed the fantastic mileage these beasts are capable of. @ 130 kmh i was getting 12L/100km (81mph @ 19.6mpg for those of you born south of the 49th). The only thing i wish i could change is the boost gauge, cause kPa means nothing to me.

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[kreklevich]

Alright, were back. So I've been watching the forum and all the advancements, and I pulled the trigger in on Rays MM3 kit with 5" TBE stainless w/ muffler and EGR delete. The most amazing thing was, the order went through at 15:33, and by 15:52 the wife had already given me crap for spending money on the truck. But the crop looks good so that will more than cover it. I cant wait to get this stuff and commence the install. Then maybe next year I'll do a re-gear to 4.10.

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[AnOldBiker]

If the spouce doen't give you some hell sometime, then life wouldn't be fun.
My wife is always giving me hell.
Because she never stops trying to slow me down.

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[kreklevich]

Alright so this past weekend, I installed my MM3 tuner and my 5" flo pro TBE. I'm sure I did everything the hard way, or at least so it seemed, so I'm gonna give y'all some hints on how to do it more gooder.

First off, installing the tuner. The unlock cable went very smooth, found it under the intake horn zip-tied to another wire. Cut it loose, pulled the plug, bob's your aunty. Routed the cable as Ray shows in one of his video's, which I figure he does it his way for 2 reasons, its probably the most out of the way, and least likely to catch on anything, and it eats up slack making for less cable to deal with under the dash. I routed the cable along another cable to the front side of the driver battery, then back alongside the fender wall then down to the clutch opening. I drilled a 5/16" hole and was just able to slide the connector through, and connect to the comm box.

Next came the display mount and cable, also my first source of problems, but I'll circle back to that later. The window mount is heavy duty and holds very well, the display clips in very solidly, on mine at least, some substantial effort was required to clip the two together. when routing the cable from the display down to the comm box, I pulled the weather stripping back as everyone recommended, but nobody suggests pulling the side of the dash off, which is quite easy with the weather stripping pulled away. By side of the dash, I mean the portion that is only visible when the door is open. Then you can tuck the cable in there nicely and if you leave it open, it lets a surprising amount of light into your underside of dash while you'll be working in there. But now I'm at the source of my first issue, which I may have ham-fisted the cable, and forced it in upside down (so to all you out in internet land, BE EXTRA CAREFUL IN ORIENTING YOUR CABLES). It required surgery to straighten the pins in the cable, and thankfully I didn't damage the comm box connection. After straightening, I was able to make the cable connect, and plugged it into the comm box.

Last connection is the easiest, but must be done last (I.E., all other connections must be completed before these), and in this order, plug the 19 pin obdII cable into the comm box, and then with the key in the off position, or even out of the ignition, obdII connector into the obdII port. Once you do this, the mm3 should fire right up and update. You'll have to follow a couple basic onscreen instructions, I believe, maybe not, it was starting to get late already. But once it updates, you can go into the ECM option on the mm3 and install your tune. This definitely has some basic key on, key off, instructions to follow, easy stuff though. Once that's installed, you can start deleting. Ill go through that in a little bit, as I have to go to work now.

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[kreklevich]

So, once you have your tune installed, you can start removing your factory exhaust. I did mine on my garage floor by myself and it was a PITA. But I survived, and I'm here to tell you about it. There are a pile of electrical connectors to disconnect and tape up. once all thats taken care of you can start loosening clamps and fasteners holding the exhaust. I found once you get the over the axle hump portion off, you can do most of the disassembly by putting a ratchet strap from the pipe your trying to remove and to the rear axle. then you can just pull it out of most of the hangers. WD-40 is your friend on the hangers. once you get all the main exhaust out, the down pipe is next, its held on by a v-band clamp, and one hanger. Easy out, less easy in. I spent over an hour trying to put the new downpipe on, and contemplated several times running a straight off the turbo exhaust. but eventually the stars aligned and I held my tongue just right, and I got it all together. the rest of the exhaust went on pretty simply. a tip i figured out is to help hold the over the axle portion while your tightening, is run a ratchet strap from the passenger leaf spring to the top of the over axle bend, to help pull it down. at least for the look I wanted it held it nicely in place.

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[kreklevich]

So we have our self some more buildings getting done. This time I was too busy and impatient to do it myself, so I shipped the truck off to the local diesel shop. They installed 2 parts which have been sitting in my backseat since September, and one major upgrade. They put in a Flo-Pro EGR delete, my RaceMe Pyro, and some ARP 625's. Now this trucks in for it, I ain't holding back anymore. I get to pick it up after work today, and unfortunately its probably not going to feel any different at all, other than my pocket book being lighter.

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