2015 6.7l ARP 425 vs 625

[beans20]

Just FYI fellas. I'll sell premium members of igotacummins.com either 425s or 625s for a price near my cost. I consider studs such a wise investment that I'll do that for premium members.

Ray
Double R Diesel, LLC
www.doublerdiesel.com
info@doublerdiesel.com

Ray, if I could hit like about 6k times I swear I would! PM coming your way!

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[E.mccarthy7018]

That is one thing i never come across which is retorqueing the 425's after a few heat cycles! May not be a big deal getting it done but I dont think going in and out of the top end is something that needs to be done repetativly! And I have seen your how to on the studs and thats the reason ill be going through you when im ready( my LAST baby will be here at the end of the month so it has to wait a little longer).

Thanks for the clean and honest advise! @Double R Diesel and @beans20

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[DRD]

Just FYI fellas. I'll sell premium members of igotacummins.com either 425s or 625s for a price near my cost. I consider studs such a wise investment that I'll do that for premium members.

Ray
Double R Diesel, LLC
www.doublerdiesel.com
info@doublerdiesel.com

I should have put this link in...

http://www.igotacummins.com/showthread.php?t=4164

I'll be adding more stuff in that thread as time goes by.

Ray
Double R Diesel, LLC
www.doublerdiesel.com
info@doublerdiesel.com

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[oneshotkyle]

Go 625s and never look back. Its a better insurance policy for you. And if you have to retorque 425s you also need to check valve lash

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[chrisd91]

Eh, majority of applications ARP 2000 will be fine. If you have the spare change and don't mind spending it on something that is likely un needed, by all means buy the 625s

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[RATLIN'HP]

Here's the deal...

425s are great and do the job. They will stretch just ever so slightly over a period of time, thus its recommended to retorque them after a few heat cycles.

625s are indeed pricey, but torque them once and you're done. They don't stretch. I put them into my own 2012. I'm not planning on opening my valve cover again until injector replacement.

You can find my 625 install in the "how to's" on this forum.

Ray
Double R Diesel, LLC
www.doublerdiesel.com
info@doublerdiesel.com

Can someone link that how to? I'd like to look at it but can't find it for some reason

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[DRD]

Can someone link that how to? I'd like to look at it but can't find it for some reason

http://www.igotacummins.com/showthread.php?t=3534

Ray
Double R Diesel, LLC
www.doublerdiesel.com
info@doublerdiesel.com

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[RATLIN'HP]

Thanks for the link. Great write up there, but I ain't gonna lie, too much in that process freaks me out. Not anything I don't think I couldn't do, but I'd be the guy that destroys something along the way. My favorite tool is a hammer by the way!

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[brandonjansen]

I've been running 425's in my truck for a couple years now with no issues at all. I pulled the valve cover after a few months to check the torque and they were all right up to snuff. Checked the valve lash again as well and no issues there either.

IMO unless you're running aftermarket turbos pushing high boost pressures the 425's are more than adequate. They will definitely do the job on any stock truck and relatively tame build as well. However I do recommend having a drive pressure gauge to make sure that side of things isn't getting too crazy. With Ray's great tuning it's not something I have an issue with at all so I'm fully confident in my 425's.

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[E.mccarthy7018]

Thanks @brandonjansen definatly good to hear from someone running the 425's. It seemed like all the talk was with the 625's and i didnt hear or read much about the 425's.

What do yall use for the drive pressure guage, and what kind of numbers are tou looking to avoid, and what are you shooting for as a "safe" number?

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