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Thread: laramie subwoofer upgrade?

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    Basic Member jas's Avatar

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    laramie subwoofer upgrade?

    my 4th gen crew cab comes with the "premium" stereo with the 8" sub under the passenger rear seat. While this is nice I find it to be a bit lousy. I've seen some sub enclosures that go under the back seat amd down into the storage boxes but I was wondering if it would work in my truck since I have lids on the storage boxes and a giant piece of plastic with a baby sub in the passenger side. Is there a way to remove all this to fit an enclosure?


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    No Vacancy Power247's Avatar

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    Yes, you can fit a real sub under the back seat where the factory sub is located. You need to remove the seat to access the bolts that secure the storage lid and the sub enclosure. Here is a link to my build if you need some inspiration. http://www.igotacummins.com/showthre...-Audio-Upgrade

    Greg
    2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI

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    Old... But Still Here! AnOldBiker's Avatar

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    That was a good write up. But I noticed you said ... you used Plasti-dip for all the exposed wood surfaces, and it took several coats before it dried enough to harden and made it easier to finish the last coats. Have you though of using a wood sealer that soaks into the wood, usually 2 coats will do, dries quickly and gives a finish surface that final finishing products won't soak in, for a quality final finish. I'm not positive of the brand name, but many companies manufactures it, and is sold in most places like Lowes or Home Depot, and is cheap and easy to work with. I've used it before putting on polyurethanes and shellac finishes. Saves time, money and most of all work.



    Jim


    2006 ~ 2500HD, Big Horn Edition, 5.9, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Kit, 60 gal main tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel Filter System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear end covers and trans pan, 285 x 70 x 17

    "Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same, or one day we will spend our sunset years telling our children and our children’s children what it was once like in the United States, where men 'were' free." ~ Ronald Regan

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    No Vacancy Power247's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by AnOldBiker View Post
    That was a good write up. But I noticed you said ... you used Plasti-dip for all the exposed wood surfaces, and it took several coats before it dried enough to harden and made it easier to finish the last coats. Have you though of using a wood sealer that soaks into the wood, usually 2 coats will do, dries quickly and gives a finish surface that final finishing products won't soak in, for a quality final finish. I'm not positive of the brand name, but many companies manufactures it, and is sold in most places like Lowes or Home Depot, and is cheap and easy to work with. I've used it before putting on polyurethanes and shellac finishes. Saves time, money and most of all work.
    Thanks man!! This was my first time using plasti-dip on wood. and yes, if I had to do it over again I would sealed the edges before the first application. I just didn't expect it to soak in like it did. It still came out OK though, just not perfect. It not like anyone sees them anyway

    Greg
    2012 | 2500 | CCLB | Custom MCC by Double R Diesel

    Greg
    2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI

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    Basic Member jas's Avatar

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    about how much did it cost just for the speakers? Also I assume you have the uconnect touch screen...Were you able to hook the amp directly into the radio or did you have to use a controller


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    No Vacancy Power247's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by jas View Post
    about how much did it cost just for the speakers? Also I assume you have the uconnect touch screen...Were you able to hook the amp directly into the radio or did you have to use a controller
    For the subs?? I think they were about $60 each. Infinity Reference 10" subs. There is a link to the exact speakers in the first post of my build thread.

    For the connections... The amp I used accepted high level inputs so I just cut the connector off the wires feeding the factory sub and hooked them to the high level input on the amp. Otherwise you will need a line output convertor. I ran wire from the battery to power the amp.

    Greg
    2012 | 2500 | CCLB | Custom MCC by Double R Diesel

    Greg
    2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI

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    Basic Member jas's Avatar

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    I meant to specify door speakers. Guess I forgot to put the door part in there but how much did your door speakers cost ya, and I plan on running 2 12" subs. Would the amp you used pushe 2 12's? If not would I just need to look for an amp that has "High level input"?


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    No Vacancy Power247's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by jas View Post
    I meant to specify door speakers. Guess I forgot to put the door part in there but how much did your door speakers cost ya, and I plan on running 2 12" subs. Would the amp you used pushe 2 12's? If not would I just need to look for an amp that has "High level input"?
    Oh... Sure... I just realized that I didn't put a link to the component set I used. They were the Infinity Reference 6030cf. http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Refer...+reference+6.5 They were about $120 for the speakers and the adapter plates.

    And yes, the amp I used will easily run 2 - 12s. It is highly under rated. I have the gain turned almost all the way down running my 2 - 10s. I hope to redo my boxes and run 12s later this year.

    Greg
    2012 | 2500 | CCLB | Custom MCC by Double R Diesel

    Greg
    2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI

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