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Thread: Exhaust Brake not working

  1. Top Of Page | #11
    Cometman's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Double R Diesel View Post
    No don't disconnect the exhaust back pressure sensor. By doing so, it can cause the exhaust brake no to work.

    If you didn't disconnect the exhaust back pressure sensor, then I'd try returning your truck to stock programming and then retuning it with RaceME tuning again...just make sure your batteries are holding a full charge. Low voltage can cause all kinds of programming issues.

    Ray
    Double R Diesel, LLC
    www.doublerdiesel.com
    info@doublerdiesel.com

    Thanks Ray,

    your expertice ice is second to none... I fully charged the batteries returned to stock and returned with RaceMe tuning all is great...

    again,, thank you very much. I look forward to doing business in the future, especially when custom tuning becomes available.

    regards


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  3. Top Of Page | #12
    oneshotkyle's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Double R Diesel View Post
    I'd try returning your truck to stock programming and then retuning it with RaceME tuning again...just make sure your batteries are holding a full charge. Low voltage can cause all kinds of programming issues.

    Ray
    Double R Diesel, LLC
    www.doublerdiesel.com
    info@doublerdiesel.com
    I have read about more people doing this and having no problems after.

    This needs to be a sticky for everyone to remember.

    Make sure batteries are fully charged (run truck for a little bit in the driveway prior to programming before anything else you do).

    These trucks are tricky and full of electronics.

    I have had fault codes early on when I first started playing with raceme.

    I now run truck for 10 or 15 minutes before any programming.

    It has made life easier.

    2015 laramie 3500 CCLB G56 4x4/Thuren springs/trackbar/swaybar with King's on Walker's with 37 Toyo mt's. Raceme/Arp625's/BBI 1.5's/Stainless Diesel 467.7/Airdog 165 4g/Fleece 10mm CP3/GDP grid delete and S3/Hellman VC.....Warp by double r diesel

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  5. Top Of Page | #13
    TX NIGHT TRAIN's Avatar

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    Could you just put it on charge while doing this?


  6. Top Of Page | #14
    Cometman's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by oneshotkyle View Post
    I have read about more people doing this and having no problems after. This needs to be a sticky for everyone to remember. Make sure batteries are fully charged(run truck for a little bit in the driveway prior to programming before anything else you do).these trucks are tricky and full of electronics. I have had fault codes early on when I first started playing with raceme. I now run truck for 10 or 15 minutes before any programming. It has made life easier
    I agree, mine was only about .5 volts low... that's very precise. Any how lesson learned and working great.

    Thanks again Ray.

    Regards


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  8. Top Of Page | #15
    DRD's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by TX NIGHT TRAIN View Post
    Could you just put it on charge while doing this?
    You can but be careful. Too much voltage can cause problems as well. Target range is 12-12.5 volts from my experience.
    Quote Originally Posted by oneshotkyle View Post
    I have read about more people doing this and having no problems after. This needs to be a sticky for everyone to remember. Make sure batteries are fully charged(run truck for a little bit in the driveway prior to programming before anything else you do).these trucks are tricky and full of electronics. I have had fault codes early on when I first started playing with raceme. I now run truck for 10 or 15 minutes before any programming. It has made life easier
    I agree. I've always made it habit to never flash my truck first thing on a morning... especially if the weather is cold. Cold weather naturally weakens a battery as well as the longer grid heater cycles, as it pulls a lot of current while in operation. Best practice is to make sure you have batteries that crank the engine well and to only tune your truck after you have run it long enough to warm up to operating temp.

    Ray
    Double R Diesel, LLC
    www.doublerdiesel.com
    info@doublerdiesel.com

    The Cummins Whisperer! John 3:16, Romans 10:9-10...Tuning for the Heart and Soul.


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  10. Top Of Page | #16

    Re: Exhaust Brake not working

    Gents,

    I know I am probably late on this post, I recently installed an aftermarket BD Exhaust brake because I also installed a 3rd gen compound kit.

    I removed the exhaust back pressure steel tube because there was not a place for it on the new manifold.

    The exhaust brake does work with the factory switch/ECU.

    The issue is the exhaust brake just does not work at random times. it will usually work for the first 10-15 minutes of the drive then it doesn't, again, at random times.

    Any suggestions?

    2011 Ram 2500
    G56, South Bend Dual Disc, FASS 165gph, ARP625s, EGR/DPF delete, Double R MM3, ATS 3000/6000 Compound (3rd Gen kit on my 4th Gen). Original brake pads! 125K miles and counting

  11. Top Of Page | #17
    Basic Member cwendel's Avatar

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    Re: Exhaust Brake not working

    Have it made to work by the tuner.

    Some tuners do not need the sensor some do.

    Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk


  12. Top Of Page | #18
    Basic Member weebo's Avatar

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    Re: Exhaust Brake not working

    DRD, wondering if you might shed some light on a similar issue I am having.

    I have an 07 6.7L. Straight pipe, EGR/EGR cooler deleted and installed a mini max about 4 yrs ago.

    Last summer I started having issues with the Exhaust back pressure sensor.

    I am getting 0 exhaust brake pressure. I replace the sensor and it runs fine for about 2-3 weeks then stops again.

    I replaced the sensor under warranty twice with the same outcome.

    The most recent sensor lasted about 5 month and now again, 0 pressure.

    Any idea what could be cooking these sensors? or, is it possible that it isnt cooking sensors and I have a separate issue?

    Any assistance or advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    Glen Weaver
    Maryville, TN


  13. Top Of Page | #19
    DRD's Avatar

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    Re: Exhaust Brake not working

    Quote Originally Posted by weebo View Post
    DRD, wondering if you might shed some light on a similar issue I am having.

    I have an 07 6.7L. Straight pipe, EGR/EGR cooler deleted and installed a mini max about 4 yrs ago.

    Last summer I started having issues with the Exhaust back pressure sensor.

    I am getting 0 exhaust brake pressure. I replace the sensor and it runs fine for about 2-3 weeks then stops again.

    I replaced the sensor under warranty twice with the same outcome.

    The most recent sensor lasted about 5 month and now again, 0 pressure.

    Any idea what could be cooking these sensors? or, is it possible that it isnt cooking sensors and I have a separate issue?

    Any assistance or advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    Glen Weaver
    Maryville, TN
    Don't know friend.

    The exhaust brake will not work on your year with no exhaust pressure feedback as you already know.

    Make sure the pressure tube feeding the sensor is not clogged with soot.

    That's about all I can think of.

    Ray,
    Double R Diesel

    The Cummins Whisperer! John 3:16, Romans 10:9-10...Tuning for the Heart and Soul.


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  15. Top Of Page | #20
    Basic Member weebo's Avatar

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    Re: Exhaust Brake not working

    Thanks, I pulled the sensor and cleaned it, removed the tube and blew it out, cleaned the housing to include the inlet port and confirmed that the port in the exhaust manifold was clear.

    Still not working...

    I have been told that a tuner such as EFI Live will basically eliminate that sensor by using a standard value.

    I really want to make sure that is correct before I drop another $750 right now to fix this problem.

    I am ready to move away from the MiniMax but want to make sure I go the right way.


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