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Napa Carquest or an independant parts dealer can give you a good one. Going to be more money.Originally Posted by IGOTACUMMINS.COM
I'm assuming the battery isn't going dead?
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
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The batteries are not going dead on my lights and everything stay on bright when it does it
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Never buy anything duralast. It's garbage.
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10-4 thank you everyone for the info I'll let you guys know if it still does it with another alternator
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Always check the alternators output first before replacing because the PCM is what regulates voltage, not the alternator. And in regards to these alternators, you want to make sure the one you have and/or the one you're getting is tested for AC voltage ripple as well. This is because all alternators create AC voltage but when they do in excess then thats a problem because of how sensitive these particular trucks are to electrical parameters. If the AC voltage is too high then it will affect sensitive neighboring electronics like the APPS, ECM, VP PSG and transmission solenoid. For this reason its advised to stay away from cheapo parts store rebuilt junk.
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