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Thread: Is CCV Filter Removal Safe?

  1. Top Of Page | #11
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    This is how I did mine.

    I cleaned every piece off completely and snapped it back together I do get some oil dripping out of my hose but it's very little and you can smell the oil vapor sometimes non of this bothers me tho.


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  3. Top Of Page | #12
    Basic Member bigronbowski72's Avatar

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    Re: Is CCV filter removal safe?

    Oh man, I did mine but when I read in a thread on another form somewhere I just used the top cover and put it back in place carefully and then put the cover back on top of the motor.

    Are you supposed to put this all back together after cutting it and is that why I possibly have oil dripping out of the filter from the delete.


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  5. Top Of Page | #13
    Basic Member 9mgcb81's Avatar

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    Re: Is CCV filter removal safe?

    Quote Originally Posted by bigronbowski72 View Post
    Oh man, I did mine but when I read in a thread on another form somewhere I just used the top cover and put it back in place carefully and then put the cover back on top of the motor. Are you supposed to put this all back together after cutting it and is that why I possibly have oil dripping out of the filter from the delete
    You should remove the element only. Put the filter back in after that is removed and cleaned up


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  7. Top Of Page | #14
    Basic Member bigronbowski72's Avatar

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    Re: Is CCV filter removal safe?

    Oh man. I didn't put filter back together. Just used the top half of filter housing. I'll start that over with a new one. Thanks!


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  9. Top Of Page | #15
    Andrew67's Avatar

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    Re: Is CCV filter removal safe?

    I run all of my trucks with a gutted filter, it is just the top half of it that fits on the sealing surface. I discarded the lower plastic bits below the actual filter material. I haven't had any leaks around the cover, but it does seem to take a bit of lining it up to get it to seat correctly.

    My only gripe is the stink when idling, but I do run Rotella so that adds to that. I finally ran my hose from the filter cover inside the fender behind the passenger side battery box. Never seen any drips, but it kind of sucks the idling smell back into the air box getting rid of any of the smell from it.

    2016 Ram 3500 Mega Cab Laramie 4x4 AISIN 3.73 DRW - RaceMe Ultra / WARP by Double R Diesel
    2012 Ram 2500 Mega Cab Laramie 4x4 68RFE 3.73 - Mini Maxx MCC by Double R Diesel
    2010 Ram 2500 Crew Cab Laramie 4x4 Garmon 68RFE 3.73 - 500k+ miles Raceme Ultra / Warp by Double R Diesel

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  11. Top Of Page | #16
    Basic Member Yamaha242LS's Avatar

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    Re: Is CCV filter removal safe?

    I changed my filter with a new filter and get the smell sometimes. Did I not seat the new CCV filter correctly?

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk


  12. Top Of Page | #17
    Muskiebri's Avatar

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    Re: Is CCV filter removal safe?

    Quote Originally Posted by ywgbandit View Post
    My question is this; The way the hose from the CCV filter goes to the air intake just above the turbo compressor wheel there must be a significant amount of negative pressure created. This must ensure there is no pressure build up in the crank case. If you remove the filter media and vent directly to atmosphere, will this be sufficient to prevent a significant pressure in the crank case, or is there a risk of blowing seals if you just vent to atmosphere?
    T
    he up side to this mod is keeping the compressor wheel, intercooler and parts down stream free of oil contamination, which I would think is a good thing?
    Bottom line.....Is this a safe mod?
    It's good you're thinking about this before just hacking into the system. Some things can go wrong if you mess up.

    Here's some info on the crankcase ventilation system. It's more than you asked for, but I've been asked a number of questions about this. So hopefully this will help answer some of the other questions I'm hearing/seeing as well. Mainly I'm trying to educate those that want to tweak the system, so you can think through the mods you're considering.

    There's a rubber diaphragm disc and spring assembly located behind the coalescing filter media that limits the vacuum on the crankcase (CC). Without the CDR (crankcase depression regulating) valve, the vacuum levels could go as high as -70 inches of water in the CC (even higher with a plugged air filter). That high of a negative pressure can over time allow contaminant to be pulled through the front and rear crankshaft seals (those seals are designed for positive pressure, not vacuum). Most engine manufacturers want their CC's to run close to atmospheric pressure. The coalescing filter media has very little effect on CC pressure, unless the filter is plugged - as a filter is plugging over time (i.e., 60,000-100,000 miles) the restriction to blow-by flow increases which causes an increase in CC pressure. The CDR valve compensates for this and allows more "pull" on the CC from the air intake. This keeps the CC pressure within limits, for a time. At some point the coalescer becomes so plugged that the CDR valve can't keep the CC press in check, and the filter needs to be changed (light comes on). If you ignore the light, liquid oil that's captured by the CV filter system can't drain back against the high CC pressure, and you'll get liquid oil carryover into the air intake, or onto the ground if you go OCV (open crankcase ventilation. CCV stands for closed crankcase ventilation).

    There's a crankcase pressure sensor installed in the valve cover that the ECM uses to notify the driver (or shop) when the filter is plugged or when it is removed (for EPA OBD purposes). Removing the CDR valve or too much of the CV filter could at some point trigger a DTC based on algorithms written for OBD purposes. The ECM assumes there will be a certain amount of CC press present, or it assumes the filter has been removed.

    Below the coalescer there's a per-separator called an impactor. This removes larger oil mist droplets. It's the same technology that was used as a stand alone separator between 2001 and 2006. So if you remove or punch holes in the coalescer, you still have the impactor intact. The Ram impactor forces blow-by through a series of ~0.25" holes, which accelerates the velocity (not the flow rate) of blow-by gas. Then the blow-by is forced to take a sharp 90° turn just downstream of the holes. As the gas makes the turn, the droplets above about 1 micron in size have too much inertia and can't stay in the flow stream. These droplets "impact" on a surface that's covered by a fuzzy felt media. That's how the impactor separates the larger oil mist. The rest of the partially cleaned blow-by then flows up and through the coalescer (that removes the fine, cigarette smoke sized mist), then past the CDR valve, then out into the air intake system.

    Oil that's separated drains back to the CC via the drain lines on the cold side of the engine. There's two drain lines - one for the impactor, one for the coalescer. Each drain line has a check valve that prevents blow-by from bypassing the filter. The check valves are not spring loaded. A head of oil accumulates above the check valves that is equal to the CC pressure. For oil to drain, the CC press must be lower that the height of oil in the drain line. If the filter becomes too plugged (i.e., above ~14" of water), the oil column height in the drain lines won't be high enough and oil will accumulate in the filter housing, and as I said above, will eventually carry over to the air intake (or onto the ground in OCV mode).

    The breather system removes both streaming liquid oil and aerosol (i.e., 0.1 to 3um oil mist, similar to cigarette smoke). Liquid oil and aerosol are very different, but both can cause issues. Streaming oil mostly comes from mechanical agitation in the rocker housing below the CV system. Oil mist (aerosol) is mostly created in a thermal/condensation event as hot exhaust blows by the rings, boils a small amount of oil in the vicinity of the piston wall and rings, and then re-condenses immediately as small soot laden aerosol droplets. These droplets are easily carried along by the blow-by out of the CC and into the CV system. The smaller droplets can stay suspended in the atmosphere for days. Both aerosol and streaming liquid oil can cause turbo compressor degradation. But very little oil mist and liquid oil gets to the turbo. Much less than what you see with other diesel pickups. Catching and containing the liquid oil and aerosol is more difficult than most people can appreciate. Hence, an expensive $100 filter.

    Modifications to this system need to be done with caution and should be monitored to make sure it's working the way you want before you forget about it and go on your happy way.


  13. Top Of Page | #18
    Muskiebri's Avatar

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    Re: Is CCV filter removal safe?

    Quote Originally Posted by Yamaha242LS View Post
    I changed my filter with a new filter and get the smell sometimes. Did I not seat the new CCV filter correctly?
    You may want to check to make sure the filter and vanity cover are seated properly. Also make sure the blow-by outlet tube and oil drain lines are connected properly. If you spilled a little oil on the hot side of the engine during service, that could also give you the hot oil smell.

    2014 Laramie 2500 CCSB - DRD MM3 Tuning, H&S SX-E 66mm Turbo Kit (DRD Giveaway #2), RevMax VB, Goerend Low Stall Converter & Billet Input Shaft, CA625 Head Studs, Custom Offsets MKW M95 Wheels, Nitto 11.5x35-R20 Ridge Grapplers, Carbon Fiber Vinyl Wrapped Rockers, Wrapped Bumpers & Grille, Thuren Springs & Swaybar, Phantom Sun Light Bar, Westin Rear Booster Pods, Retroshop HIDs & Fogs & Backup LEDs, Wireless Air Lift 5000, Flo-Pro 4" SST Exhaust, FTEDiesel 30" resonator, AMP Bed Step, Rebadged, Truxport Tonneau, Undercoated, Alpine Sub & Amp, and more. Matt 22:37, Proverbs 16:24

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  15. Top Of Page | #19
    flanagan's Avatar

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    Re: Is CCV filter removal safe?

    Quote Originally Posted by Muskiebri View Post
    It's good you're thinking about this before just hacking into the system. Some things can go wrong if you mess up.

    Here's some info on the crankcase ventilation system. It's more than you asked for, but I've been asked a number of questions about this. So hopefully this will help answer some of the other questions I'm hearing/seeing as well. Mainly I'm trying to educate those that want to tweak the system, so you can think through the mods you're considering.

    There's a rubber diaphragm disc and spring assembly located behind the coalescing filter media that limits the vacuum on the crankcase (CC). Without the CDR (crankcase depression regulating) valve, the vacuum levels could go as high as -70 inches of water in the CC (even higher with a plugged air filter). That high of a negative pressure can over time allow contaminant to be pulled through the front and rear crankshaft seals (those seals are designed for positive pressure, not vacuum). Most engine manufacturers want their CC's to run close to atmospheric pressure. The coalescing filter media has very little effect on CC pressure, unless the filter is plugged - as a filter is plugging over time (i.e., 60,000-100,000 miles) the restriction to blow-by flow increases which causes an increase in CC pressure. The CDR valve compensates for this and allows more "pull" on the CC from the air intake. This keeps the CC pressure within limits, for a time. At some point the coalescer becomes so plugged that the CDR valve can't keep the CC press in check, and the filter needs to be changed (light comes on). If you ignore the light, liquid oil that's captured by the CV filter system can't drain back against the high CC pressure, and you'll get liquid oil carryover into the air intake, or onto the ground if you go OCV (open crankcase ventilation. CCV stands for closed crankcase ventilation).

    There's a crankcase pressure sensor installed in the valve cover that the ECM uses to notify the driver (or shop) when the filter is plugged or when it is removed (for EPA OBD purposes). Removing the CDR valve or too much of the CV filter could at some point trigger a DTC based on algorithms written for OBD purposes. The ECM assumes there will be a certain amount of CC press present, or it assumes the filter has been removed.

    Below the coalescer there's a per-separator called an impactor. This removes larger oil mist droplets. It's the same technology that was used as a stand alone separator between 2001 and 2006. So if you remove or punch holes in the coalescer, you still have the impactor intact. The Ram impactor forces blow-by through a series of ~0.25" holes, which accelerates the velocity (not the flow rate) of blow-by gas. Then the blow-by is forced to take a sharp 90° turn just downstream of the holes. As the gas makes the turn, the droplets above about 1 micron in size have too much inertia and can't stay in the flow stream. These droplets "impact" on a surface that's covered by a fuzzy felt media. That's how the impactor separates the larger oil mist. The rest of the partially cleaned blow-by then flows up and through the coalescer (that removes the fine, cigarette smoke sized mist), then past the CDR valve, then out into the air intake system.

    Oil that's separated drains back to the CC via the drain lines on the cold side of the engine. There's two drain lines - one for the impactor, one for the coalescer. Each drain line has a check valve that prevents blow-by from bypassing the filter. The check valves are not spring loaded. A head of oil accumulates above the check valves that is equal to the CC pressure. For oil to drain, the CC press must be lower that the height of oil in the drain line. If the filter becomes too plugged (i.e., above ~14" of water), the oil column height in the drain lines won't be high enough and oil will accumulate in the filter housing, and as I said above, will eventually carry over to the air intake (or onto the ground in OCV mode).

    The breather system removes both streaming liquid oil and aerosol (i.e., 0.1 to 3um oil mist, similar to cigarette smoke). Liquid oil and aerosol are very different, but both can cause issues. Streaming oil mostly comes from mechanical agitation in the rocker housing below the CV system. Oil mist (aerosol) is mostly created in a thermal/condensation event as hot exhaust blows by the rings, boils a small amount of oil in the vicinity of the piston wall and rings, and then re-condenses immediately as small soot laden aerosol droplets. These droplets are easily carried along by the blow-by out of the CC and into the CV system. The smaller droplets can stay suspended in the atmosphere for days. Both aerosol and streaming liquid oil can cause turbo compressor degradation. But very little oil mist and liquid oil gets to the turbo. Much less than what you see with other diesel pickups. Catching and containing the liquid oil and aerosol is more difficult than most people can appreciate. Hence, an expensive $100 filter.

    Modifications to this system need to be done with caution and should be monitored to make sure it's working the way you want before you forget about it and go on your happy way.
    Just wow

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk


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  17. Top Of Page | #20
    TexNeck's Avatar

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    Re: Is CCV filter removal safe?

    Quote Originally Posted by Muskiebri View Post
    It's good you're thinking about this before just hacking into the system. Some things can go wrong if you mess up.

    Here's some info on the crankcase ventilation system. It's more than you asked for, but I've been asked a number of questions about this. So hopefully this will help answer some of the other questions I'm hearing/seeing as well. Mainly I'm trying to educate those that want to tweak the system, so you can think through the mods you're considering.

    There's a rubber diaphragm disc and spring assembly located behind the coalescing filter media that limits the vacuum on the crankcase (CC). Without the CDR (crankcase depression regulating) valve, the vacuum levels could go as high as -70 inches of water in the CC (even higher with a plugged air filter). That high of a negative pressure can over time allow contaminant to be pulled through the front and rear crankshaft seals (those seals are designed for positive pressure, not vacuum). Most engine manufacturers want their CC's to run close to atmospheric pressure. The coalescing filter media has very little effect on CC pressure, unless the filter is plugged - as a filter is plugging over time (i.e., 60,000-100,000 miles) the restriction to blow-by flow increases which causes an increase in CC pressure. The CDR valve compensates for this and allows more "pull" on the CC from the air intake. This keeps the CC pressure within limits, for a time. At some point the coalescer becomes so plugged that the CDR valve can't keep the CC press in check, and the filter needs to be changed (light comes on). If you ignore the light, liquid oil that's captured by the CV filter system can't drain back against the high CC pressure, and you'll get liquid oil carryover into the air intake, or onto the ground if you go OCV (open crankcase ventilation. CCV stands for closed crankcase ventilation).

    There's a crankcase pressure sensor installed in the valve cover that the ECM uses to notify the driver (or shop) when the filter is plugged or when it is removed (for EPA OBD purposes). Removing the CDR valve or too much of the CV filter could at some point trigger a DTC based on algorithms written for OBD purposes. The ECM assumes there will be a certain amount of CC press present, or it assumes the filter has been removed.

    Below the coalescer there's a per-separator called an impactor. This removes larger oil mist droplets. It's the same technology that was used as a stand alone separator between 2001 and 2006. So if you remove or punch holes in the coalescer, you still have the impactor intact. The Ram impactor forces blow-by through a series of ~0.25" holes, which accelerates the velocity (not the flow rate) of blow-by gas. Then the blow-by is forced to take a sharp 90° turn just downstream of the holes. As the gas makes the turn, the droplets above about 1 micron in size have too much inertia and can't stay in the flow stream. These droplets "impact" on a surface that's covered by a fuzzy felt media. That's how the impactor separates the larger oil mist. The rest of the partially cleaned blow-by then flows up and through the coalescer (that removes the fine, cigarette smoke sized mist), then past the CDR valve, then out into the air intake system.

    Oil that's separated drains back to the CC via the drain lines on the cold side of the engine. There's two drain lines - one for the impactor, one for the coalescer. Each drain line has a check valve that prevents blow-by from bypassing the filter. The check valves are not spring loaded. A head of oil accumulates above the check valves that is equal to the CC pressure. For oil to drain, the CC press must be lower that the height of oil in the drain line. If the filter becomes too plugged (i.e., above ~14" of water), the oil column height in the drain lines won't be high enough and oil will accumulate in the filter housing, and as I said above, will eventually carry over to the air intake (or onto the ground in OCV mode).

    The breather system removes both streaming liquid oil and aerosol (i.e., 0.1 to 3um oil mist, similar to cigarette smoke). Liquid oil and aerosol are very different, but both can cause issues. Streaming oil mostly comes from mechanical agitation in the rocker housing below the CV system. Oil mist (aerosol) is mostly created in a thermal/condensation event as hot exhaust blows by the rings, boils a small amount of oil in the vicinity of the piston wall and rings, and then re-condenses immediately as small soot laden aerosol droplets. These droplets are easily carried along by the blow-by out of the CC and into the CV system. The smaller droplets can stay suspended in the atmosphere for days. Both aerosol and streaming liquid oil can cause turbo compressor degradation. But very little oil mist and liquid oil gets to the turbo. Much less than what you see with other diesel pickups. Catching and containing the liquid oil and aerosol is more difficult than most people can appreciate. Hence, an expensive $100 filter.

    Modifications to this system need to be done with caution and should be monitored to make sure it's working the way you want before you forget about it and go on your happy way.
    very informative...the question I have now is-
    Do you run your filter on your personal truck or have it deleted?

    2013 Ram 2500
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