This is how I did mine.
I cleaned every piece off completely and snapped it back together I do get some oil dripping out of my hose but it's very little and you can smell the oil vapor sometimes non of this bothers me tho.
This is how I did mine.
I cleaned every piece off completely and snapped it back together I do get some oil dripping out of my hose but it's very little and you can smell the oil vapor sometimes non of this bothers me tho.
Oh man, I did mine but when I read in a thread on another form somewhere I just used the top cover and put it back in place carefully and then put the cover back on top of the motor.
Are you supposed to put this all back together after cutting it and is that why I possibly have oil dripping out of the filter from the delete.
You should remove the element only. Put the filter back in after that is removed and cleaned up
Oh man. I didn't put filter back together. Just used the top half of filter housing. I'll start that over with a new one. Thanks!
I run all of my trucks with a gutted filter, it is just the top half of it that fits on the sealing surface. I discarded the lower plastic bits below the actual filter material. I haven't had any leaks around the cover, but it does seem to take a bit of lining it up to get it to seat correctly.
My only gripe is the stink when idling, but I do run Rotella so that adds to that. I finally ran my hose from the filter cover inside the fender behind the passenger side battery box. Never seen any drips, but it kind of sucks the idling smell back into the air box getting rid of any of the smell from it.
2016 Ram 3500 Mega Cab Laramie 4x4 AISIN 3.73 DRW - RaceMe Ultra / WARP by Double R Diesel
2012 Ram 2500 Mega Cab Laramie 4x4 68RFE 3.73 - Mini Maxx MCC by Double R Diesel
2010 Ram 2500 Crew Cab Laramie 4x4 Garmon 68RFE 3.73 - 500k+ miles Raceme Ultra / Warp by Double R Diesel
I changed my filter with a new filter and get the smell sometimes. Did I not seat the new CCV filter correctly?
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It's good you're thinking about this before just hacking into the system. Some things can go wrong if you mess up.
Here's some info on the crankcase ventilation system. It's more than you asked for, but I've been asked a number of questions about this. So hopefully this will help answer some of the other questions I'm hearing/seeing as well. Mainly I'm trying to educate those that want to tweak the system, so you can think through the mods you're considering.
There's a rubber diaphragm disc and spring assembly located behind the coalescing filter media that limits the vacuum on the crankcase (CC). Without the CDR (crankcase depression regulating) valve, the vacuum levels could go as high as -70 inches of water in the CC (even higher with a plugged air filter). That high of a negative pressure can over time allow contaminant to be pulled through the front and rear crankshaft seals (those seals are designed for positive pressure, not vacuum). Most engine manufacturers want their CC's to run close to atmospheric pressure. The coalescing filter media has very little effect on CC pressure, unless the filter is plugged - as a filter is plugging over time (i.e., 60,000-100,000 miles) the restriction to blow-by flow increases which causes an increase in CC pressure. The CDR valve compensates for this and allows more "pull" on the CC from the air intake. This keeps the CC pressure within limits, for a time. At some point the coalescer becomes so plugged that the CDR valve can't keep the CC press in check, and the filter needs to be changed (light comes on). If you ignore the light, liquid oil that's captured by the CV filter system can't drain back against the high CC pressure, and you'll get liquid oil carryover into the air intake, or onto the ground if you go OCV (open crankcase ventilation. CCV stands for closed crankcase ventilation).
There's a crankcase pressure sensor installed in the valve cover that the ECM uses to notify the driver (or shop) when the filter is plugged or when it is removed (for EPA OBD purposes). Removing the CDR valve or too much of the CV filter could at some point trigger a DTC based on algorithms written for OBD purposes. The ECM assumes there will be a certain amount of CC press present, or it assumes the filter has been removed.
Below the coalescer there's a per-separator called an impactor. This removes larger oil mist droplets. It's the same technology that was used as a stand alone separator between 2001 and 2006. So if you remove or punch holes in the coalescer, you still have the impactor intact. The Ram impactor forces blow-by through a series of ~0.25" holes, which accelerates the velocity (not the flow rate) of blow-by gas. Then the blow-by is forced to take a sharp 90° turn just downstream of the holes. As the gas makes the turn, the droplets above about 1 micron in size have too much inertia and can't stay in the flow stream. These droplets "impact" on a surface that's covered by a fuzzy felt media. That's how the impactor separates the larger oil mist. The rest of the partially cleaned blow-by then flows up and through the coalescer (that removes the fine, cigarette smoke sized mist), then past the CDR valve, then out into the air intake system.
Oil that's separated drains back to the CC via the drain lines on the cold side of the engine. There's two drain lines - one for the impactor, one for the coalescer. Each drain line has a check valve that prevents blow-by from bypassing the filter. The check valves are not spring loaded. A head of oil accumulates above the check valves that is equal to the CC pressure. For oil to drain, the CC press must be lower that the height of oil in the drain line. If the filter becomes too plugged (i.e., above ~14" of water), the oil column height in the drain lines won't be high enough and oil will accumulate in the filter housing, and as I said above, will eventually carry over to the air intake (or onto the ground in OCV mode).
The breather system removes both streaming liquid oil and aerosol (i.e., 0.1 to 3um oil mist, similar to cigarette smoke). Liquid oil and aerosol are very different, but both can cause issues. Streaming oil mostly comes from mechanical agitation in the rocker housing below the CV system. Oil mist (aerosol) is mostly created in a thermal/condensation event as hot exhaust blows by the rings, boils a small amount of oil in the vicinity of the piston wall and rings, and then re-condenses immediately as small soot laden aerosol droplets. These droplets are easily carried along by the blow-by out of the CC and into the CV system. The smaller droplets can stay suspended in the atmosphere for days. Both aerosol and streaming liquid oil can cause turbo compressor degradation. But very little oil mist and liquid oil gets to the turbo. Much less than what you see with other diesel pickups. Catching and containing the liquid oil and aerosol is more difficult than most people can appreciate. Hence, an expensive $100 filter.
Modifications to this system need to be done with caution and should be monitored to make sure it's working the way you want before you forget about it and go on your happy way.
You may want to check to make sure the filter and vanity cover are seated properly. Also make sure the blow-by outlet tube and oil drain lines are connected properly. If you spilled a little oil on the hot side of the engine during service, that could also give you the hot oil smell.
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very informative...the question I have now is-
Do you run your filter on your personal truck or have it deleted?
2013 Ram 2500
John 3:16 - Philippians 4:13
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