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I have a stock 2010 2500 and recently got P0191 code. I've searched the forum on how to change the sensor but still have questions. Do I have to bleed the fuel rail, if so how to bleed it? and whats the best way to remove it and special tools or just put a wrench on it and take it off? I am new to working on diesels so any help would be appreciated.
No and NoOriginally Posted by gbroome
The rail pressure drops to zero almost immediately after shut down. Give it a minute or two. Since the sensor is on top of the rail, there is no drainage. The fitting on the sensor is a hex. Use a deep socket. If there is a hex on the rail under the sensor, hold that with another wrench. They're on there pretty tight.
2 things
1. Make sure you have a fresh washer seal for the sensor. They usually come with the sensor. If not, find one. Sometimes you can get by with the old ones, but that is a bad spot to have a leak at 25,000 PSI.
2. Work Clean Work Clean Work Clean. Smart thing would be to wash the motor down especially around that plenum. You don't want to introduce any dirt to the rail. The dirt could get to an injector and kill it. The 6.7 injectors are very sensitive to contaminants. a new injector is $2K plus labor. Not something a novice should do
Are you sure it's sensor? Could be
- High fuel pressure
- Low fuel pressure
- Damaged FRP sensor
- Excessive resistance in the circuit
- Low or no fuel
- Wiring harness connector of the fuel pressure sensor
- Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor
- Vacuum leaks
- Fuel
Is the truck running OK?
Disconnect the plug and put it back on.
See what happens
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
Thanks for all the info. From what I read it looks like it could be the sensor but not 100% sure. I'll check the plug first before I do the sensor. The truck runs good. No other codes.
I just dont want ti throw parts at it
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
I should have mentioned the code comes and goes. Parts for these trucks are too expensive to throw parts at it.
Can you get your hands on some silicone Dielectric Grease? a slight dab goes a long way. I was guessing on the plug, but it's a good start. I don't suppose you have a display, like a CTS. or a scanner available to see what the rail pressure is do you?
On the costs, that's why I said that. Exhaust all the other possible causes first. Those pressure sensors are not that common although people have replaced them and say it fixed it, when a poor contact in the plug was all it was. Who knows! Maybe I just saved you 200 bucks. LOL
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
I have a code reader but it doesn't show rail pressure. I'll get some grease and check the plug first
Thanks
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I have the same code on my 2010. Along with a P0524 and P02E3.
The CEL isn't set until the p0191 code throws.
I am trying the dielectric grease on the pressure sensor on the top of the rail.
To replace that sensor will take a special socket.
It's in such an inaccessible spot I doubt seriously you could get a wrench on it.
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