Hot side thickness for compounds

**house.tyler213** · 10-05-2015

New to the forum scene but I am currently in the process of building a set of compounds for my truck. I'm not sure what size thickness I should use to build the exhaust side. This piece going from the s300 to the s400. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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**Polaraco** · 10-06-2015

Originally Posted by house.tyler213

New to the forum scene but I am currently in the process of building a set of compounds for my truck. I'm not sure what size thickness I should use to build the exhaust side. This piece going from the s300 to the s400. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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Welcome

Just so I am clear, what is a compound? Turbo?

What year truck are we working on?

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**house.tyler213** · 10-06-2015

Compound turbos work together as a whole. The secondary charger which is my 366 in this case, will spool a billet wheel 480 and the pipe I am having trouble building is the connection from the exhaust side of the 366 to the t6 flange of the 480. Just not sure what size thickness would be suitable for the job. I was thinking about using maybe some 16 ga. Mild steel but I've heard a lot of people say sched. 40 is what I need. Any input is appreciated guys

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**Polaraco** · 10-06-2015

Originally Posted by house.tyler213

Compound turbos work together as a whole. The secondary charger which is my 366 in this case, will spool a billet wheel 480 and the pipe I am having trouble building is the connection from the exhaust side of the 366 to the t6 flange of the 480. Just not sure what size thickness would be suitable for the job. I was thinking about using maybe some 16 ga. Mild steel but I've heard a lot of people say sched. 40 is what I need. Any input is appreciated guys

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I thought so. My crystal ball is at the car wash

Schedule 40 is a better choice for the hot side. But how are you planning to bend it? 16 gauge will burn through in short time. However, and its technical, there is a carbon grade steel that will work, but it's brittle and tough to work with.

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**house.tyler213** · 10-06-2015

Originally Posted by Polaraco

I thought so. My crystal ball is at the car wash

Schedule 40 is a better choice for the hot side. But how are you planning to bend it? 16 gauge will burn through in short time. However, and its technical, there is a carbon grade steel that will work, but it's brittle and tough to work with.

I am planning on pie cutting a 180 degree bend from the 66 and coming to the front and then pie cutting a 90 degree to a t6 flange where the 80 will be mounted. The turbos will be "side by side" rather then on top of one another like you normally see in the compound kits. In the finished product, the 480 will be in the same area as my passenger side battery. The cold side piping is simply a 90 degree bend from the compressor outlet of the 480 to the inlet of the 66. Thanks for the help guys!

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**Polaraco** · 10-06-2015

As long as there is no sharp bends that should work. Try to smooth the inside on all those cuts so not to interrupt the flow.

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**chrisd91** · 11-13-2015

Originally Posted by house.tyler213

I am planning on pie cutting a 180 degree bend from the 66 and coming to the front and then pie cutting a 90 degree to a t6 flange where the 80 will be mounted. The turbos will be "side by side" rather then on top of one another like you normally see in the compound kits. In the finished product, the 480 will be in the same area as my passenger side battery. The cold side piping is simply a 90 degree bend from the compressor outlet of the 480 to the inlet of the 66. Thanks for the help guys!

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I like turning the manifold charger backwards for side by side setups, then you get a nice short 90 hot pipe and conserve as much exhaust energy as possible between the two chargers.

I've made several hotpipes out of 3.5" 11 gauge and have never had a problem. My next set will be a side by side like I described with a 3" sch40 90 hot pipe. Keating machine sells a very nice 3" pipe to T6 flange for around $50

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**house.tyler213** · 11-16-2015

Originally Posted by chrisd91

I like turning the manifold charger backwards for side by side setups, then you get a nice short 90 hot pipe and conserve as much exhaust energy as possible between the two chargers.

I've made several hotpipes out of 3.5" 11 gauge and have never had a problem. My next set will be a side by side like I described with a 3" sch40 90 hot pipe. Keating machine sells a very nice 3" pipe to T6 flange for around $50

I have seen setups like that on some of the pro street trucks but never really considered running something like that. Sounds like a great idea tho. With the manifold charger backwards, how hard is it to squeeze the cold side by the firewall to the compressor Inlet? And I'll deff go have a look at Keating Machines pipe, thanks for the help!

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**chrisd91** · 11-17-2015

I'm planning on using cast 3" aluminum tight radius elbows, but I'm using a straight flange exhaust manifold so my firewall clearance is a little tighter than an angled down manifold. I'm going to weld a v band to the compressor inlet to make removal easy

Here are a couple mock up pics I have

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**house.tyler213** · 11-17-2015

Looks awesome, deff gonna try this set up. How much room do you have for a downpipe? Or does this setup more favor a hood exit? My truck is a dd so a hood stack wouldn't be the best thing, still be pretty cool tho!

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