Intake/Exhaust popping noise

[Wildkarrd RRD]

Umm I drove it from Pennsylvania to Minnesota on Nov. 25th and nothing too far after that hour or such trips every once and a while. I run power service every tank due to the cold temperatures here in MN. Not sure if that has any cleaning value?

I drive it fairly hard regularly. Not necessarily beating on it. But normally accelerate pretty hard.

I am the paranoid type so now that I've read the worst case scenarios of this sound such as a seat dropping I am unfortunately scared to drive it let alone drive it enough to run two tanks through it. We are looking at it tomorrow and hopefully will find something out before having to pull a head. If we do end up pullin the head and it checks out fine are the head stud a torque to yield or can they be re used? I'm contemplating getting ARP studs or just getting new OEM ones. Anyone happen to know a price difference? I don't really plan on a bigger turbo or anything but I guess you never know.

Grumps seems to have a handle on getting you lined out on troubleshooting. So I'll leave him alone LOL. As for studs, couldn't tell you how much factory head bolts are, but the ARP 425's or 2000s (same thing, just depends on where your getting them) usually run around the $600 mark. And they are re usable. To an extent at least. With every fastner after so long it does fatigue

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[Polaraco]

I doubt it. Combustion temps aren't as high as a gasser. You'd have to thousands on it to burn it.

It's hard to call this from 1400 miles, we need to wait to see what you find. I hope you have a seasoned guy working with you. We're in the guessing mode at the moment. Need more eyes on.

Get that decarboning agent anyway. Get the 9700 too

We'll address the studs if you have to go that far

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[Tabaka11]

I doubt it. Combustion temps aren't as high as a gasser. You'd have to thousands on it to burn it.

It's hard to call this from 1400 miles, we need to wait to see what you find. I hope you have a seasoned guy working with you. We're in the guessing mode at the moment. Need more eyes on.

Get that decarboning agent anyway. Get the 9700 too

We'll address the studs if you have to go that far

My buddy is a diesel mechanic he will be helping me. And I'm sure I will be posting questions on here throughout the process.

And what was the spanner I am supposed to check?

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[Polaraco]

My buddy is a diesel mechanic he will be helping me. And I'm sure I will be posting questions on here throughout the process.

And what was the spanner I am supposed to check?

it's a 23 valve. There are 4 valves per cylinder and 2 rockers. The spanner crosses 2 valves under the one rocker. You'll see it. Too tired to post a pic for ya. LOL

Goin to bed

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[Tabaka11]

Okay I got it I just never know what it was called. Thanks for your help!

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[Tabaka11]

Shut off each injector and nothing changed. Now we pulled the cover and took out the rockers. Each rocker has a metal cap on it with a black plastic cup above it. When we pulled the intake rocker for cylinder #5 the metal cap fell right off and it had no black plastic piece. Cylinder 5 is also the one with low contribution numbers. Any insight you guys? @Polaraco

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[Tabaka11]

Ran straight edge across outside intake valves. All of them were level. Ran it across the outside exhaust valves. #3 had a .005 gap between straight edge and #6 had a .009 gap between straight edge and valve.

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[Polaraco]

do the valves wiggle?

It's hard to tell that was with the inconsistencies of the sand casting

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[Tabaka11]

Put air to the cylinders and could hear it coming out the tailpipe. That was enough for me to pull the head. We took one valve out just to see and that seat was ready to come out any second

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[Polaraco]

That's good and bad. The bad part is you have to have the head repaired. The good news is you caught it in time.

I didn't want to believe the seat was going. It's not that common but not unheard of.

Well, OK. Just make sure you use a good shop for that.

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