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Thread: problem with cold start.

  1. Top Of Page | #11
    Basic Member Kaden Seidel's Avatar

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    we use those electronic testers and i don't know if that's the best way to test them our local interstate battery uses a true battery tester i could take it to them and see how it tests there


  2. Top Of Page | #12
    Basic Member Kaden Seidel's Avatar

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    I heard another forum saying the contacts on my starter could start to get fried whats you opinion on that?


  3. Top Of Page | #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaden Seidel View Post
    I heard another forum saying the contacts on my starter could start to get fried whats you opinion on that?
    I would expect it to crank funny and show itself as starter problems then. It cranks just fine just doesn't fire right?


  4. Top Of Page | #14
    Basic Member Kaden Seidel's Avatar

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    I feel like it kinda sounds like the batterys are drained on super cold days if it cranks for more then 5 mins its spins so slow i have to jump it


  5. Top Of Page | #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaden Seidel View Post
    I feel like it kinda sounds like the batterys are drained on super cold days if it cranks for more then 5 mins its spins so slow i have to jump it
    Weak batteries then. I'd almost guarantee it if they are doing that. Might test fine and behave as they should when warm, but when cold they just don't hold the amps they should. Next chance you get if you can, test like Grumps said. Don't plug it in. If she doesn't fire off, then instead of grabbing the ether grab the jumper cables. I'd bet the batteries just don't have the juice to cycle the grid heater, spin the lift pump and turn the starter all at once.


  6. Top Of Page | #16
    Basic Member Kaden Seidel's Avatar

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    all right thanks guys ill give it a shot when my fuel pump comes in, thanks for all the help!


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  8. Top Of Page | #17
    Basic Member Kaden Seidel's Avatar

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    one more question if i was to get new batterys what do you guys recommend? optima red tops?


  9. Top Of Page | #18
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Yellow tops I believe. However, from experience, unless you are in warm climate. stay with lead acid

    Do the jump start test first and check those connections. Take them off and clean them. Use the right tools. Make sure they are good and tight. If you have corrosion running up the wire, replace the assembly


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

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  11. Top Of Page | #19
    JOKER! F350Cummins's Avatar

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    just a way out thought here, 01 is an electronic lift pump, if fuel pressure is dropping to 0 when grid heater kicks on, could it be that the pump is not getting enough juice? that's my thought pattern, so check terminals, check wiring harness, and replace the batteries.

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  12. Top Of Page | #20
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by F350Cummins View Post
    just a way out thought here, 01 is an electronic lift pump, if fuel pressure is dropping to 0 when grid heater kicks on, could it be that the pump is not getting enough juice? that's my thought pattern, so check terminals, check wiring harness, and replace the batteries.
    Post jumper. I said that already


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

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