Hahaha just bugging ya
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Hahaha just bugging ya
did you hear something behind you? LOL
It's a pretty logical argument I give on those filters. It's amazing what you can come up with on a budget.
Actually, the clean oil was discovered by accident. I did the remote filters because it was easier/cleaner to change the filters. The cost diff between the single and dual was minimal so I thought it was a good idea. it was under budget too. Surprise!
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
The only thing inadequate on these trucks for 400hp is the stock fueling system and exhaust. Give it a good supply if fuel and a 4" exhaust and don't worry about it. Stock headbolts are plenty. If you're that worried about them, take them out one at a time, lube them and retorque them using paint marks to check for stretch.Originally Posted by IG Operations
Stock intake horn is not a restriction on these trucks. I'm going for 800hp with my current p-pumped build and it will have a stock intake horn
Can't say I've ever heard of the pump key having a problem either? But it I true the vp44 I the weakest link when it comes to a second gens. The best thing you can do is put either an air dog or fass 150 both work well and have good warranties use half inch full lines to and from the tank. Use a sump instead of the draw straw. You will have the best fuel pressure with this setup and another thing that kills the vp44 is the heat from the block. I'm currently working on a heat shield to protect the vp44 so the solder connections for the electronics in the vp. Next I would run an Amsoil bypass filter with full synthetic oil you will be able to get 50k miles If not more between oil changes!! The synthetic oil tends to protect the turbo better sense he can reach super hot temps. Pay attention to what winter oil you put in it depending on where u live u may want to run a lower winter. Btw 10 w40 the (w) does not mean weight for those of you scratching your head over me mentioning winter.
IGOTACUMMINS liked this post
I would stay away from any air filters that are of the oiled gauze type. This would include many of them such as AFE, K&N and S&B. Get a high flow big rig filter kit (sometimes refered to as BHAF) and repace it on a regular basis. These filters flow very well but more importandly they FILTER the air properly!
Not a key. Dowel pin. Damn mental handicap. Or is it senility
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
Never seen a problem with the dowel pins on 24v's.
IGOTACUMMINS liked this post
Not surprised
2003- 3500 RWD Automatic. S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95, 50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC
Actually I have heard of a few of the early 24v's having this issue.
I just checked mine when swapping the timing case for a p pump case, and the pin was about 1/8" from fully seated. 150k on the truck, 18k of those miles at at 500hp. Made a tab and called it a day
Rockwerx liked this post
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