Finally Deleted....now some new questions!!

[Gsxrgrizz]

Ok, I just picked it up my newly deleted 2012 a few hours ago!! Keep in mind I've only had the chance to drive home from the shop...roughly 15km with some VERY limited highway driving.

First impression was OMG arty018: Now I know what everyone means by it is a whole new truck!! Absolutely WAY more power (currently on tow setting) than I had before stock. I have yet to punch it (kind of scared to as I have yet to do the head studs) but I have managed to get into it about 1/2 throttle then backed off as my boost was rapidly climbing to 30-32 psi. In addition, the cars in front were approaching just as fast however it "feels" like twice the get up and go!! Unfortunately it's raining here so it's hard to gauge but I easily broke traction with slight pressure on the pedal!!

Now a few new questions I have though are....

1. What is the upper EGT temp limit that I should set my CTS alarm to?

2. What is the max safe boost I can hit prior to doing head studs? I know it's subjective but can I safely exceed 30-35??

3. I also added a turbo timer. They set it to auto count down 3 min every time but I think I would rather have it set to a specific temp instead of letting it idle....what temp do you shut down at??

4. Speaking if idling....am I right in the thought process that there is no longer a limit for the amount if idle time I can do??


Thanks.....

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[DRD]

Ok, I just picked it up my newly deleted 2012 a few hours ago!! Keep in mind I've only had the chance to drive home from the shop...roughly 15km with some VERY limited highway driving.

First impression was OMG arty018: Now I know what everyone means by it is a whole new truck!! Absolutely WAY more power (currently on tow setting) than I had before stock. I have yet to punch it (kind of scared to as I have yet to do the head studs) but I have managed to get into it about 1/2 throttle then backed off as my boost was rapidly climbing to 30-32 psi. In addition, the cars in front were approaching just as fast however it "feels" like twice the get up and go!! Unfortunately it's raining here so it's hard to gauge but I easily broke traction with slight pressure on the pedal!!

Now a few new questions I have though are....

1. What is the upper EGT temp limit that I should set my CTS alarm to?

2. What is the max safe boost I can hit prior to doing head studs? I know it's subjective but can I safely exceed 30-35??

3. I also added a turbo timer. They set it to auto count down 3 min every time but I think I would rather have it set to a specific temp instead of letting it idle....what temp do you shut down at??

4. Speaking if idling....am I right in the thought process that there is no longer a limit for the amount if idle time I can do??


Thanks.....

Congrats on a better running more reliable truck!

1. Our trucks can stand pretty high egts and live. I generally tell guys that have purely street trucks to back off around 1300 degrees. Your truck probably saw egts at the collector that high during Regens. 1300 is pretty hot much that still gives just a little bit of wiggle room. The thing to remember is the engine can take quick burst much higher but if the sustained egts go that high, back off.

2. I've run 36 psi boost on my truck without studs. The bigger culprit on heat gasket blowing is drive pressure in addition with cylinder pressure. You never want to go past 60 psi of drive pressure/exhaust back pressure without studs. Of course you have to rig up a gauge to read this on 4th gens. You also need to match proper injection timing with your tuning.
Stay away from ATT/or aggressive turbo tuning with H&S box tuning. That is the default tuning with box H&S tuners. It clamps down hard on the turbo and really jacks the drive pressure up. Now it does make boost fast, but that's not needed in my opinion. Saying you see 30+ psi boost fast, I'd say you may have that. Might want to check all that.

3. Turbo timers. Just set it for a comfortable time. Holset VGTs are actually water cooled ( for the electronics on board) so they cool down very quickly at idle.

4. Yes sir. Deleted your truck call idle all day long.

And also...it is sound proven advice to let your truck warm up completely to operating temperature before running it hard. This goes a long way in protecting yourself from a blown head gasket

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[Gsxrgrizz]

How do I change the turbo timing? Can I just plug in the XRT and find the setting to change or do I have to download a whole new tune with the new timing to the SD card then re-upload all of it to the truck?

Either way, if someone can explain exactly how to do this for a newbie it would be greatly appreciated!!! I do not yet have any experience doing this and do not want to mess it up!!!!

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[Gsxrgrizz]

Ok, so I think I figured it out!!! I downloaded the tune for my truck off the H&S website without the ATT. From there, I followed all the instructions and all went well.

Once in my truck, I went through the prompts and made the following changes.....

1. When it asked if I want to use max transmission pressures I said no as there was a warning about only using for modified transmissions which I don't have...unless it's factory!!

2. When given the tune choice I just kept it at street where it was before.

3. When it asked about injection timing I was presented with options 1,3 and 5 however I chose 2 and downloaded everything.

I won't be able to take it for a drive tonight but I just wanted to make sure That it appears I did everything right.

The settings screen now reads Mild Tune only and has version..

SW-1.03.1. TV-6.8.32

Also, is there any way with the XRT that I can set it to have the engine brake come on automatically whenever I start it? Thanks for everyone's help....I would not have tried any if this without your support!!!

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[DRD]

Ok, so I think I figured it out!!! I downloaded the tune for my truck off the H&S website without the ATT. From there, I followed all the instructions and all went well.

Once in my truck, I went through the prompts and made the following changes.....

1. When it asked if I want to use max transmission pressures I said no as there was a warning about only using for modified transmissions which I don't have...unless it's factory!!

2. When given the tune choice I just kept it at street where it was before.

3. When it asked about injection timing I was presented with options 1,3 and 5 however I chose 2 and downloaded everything.

I won't be able to take it for a drive tonight but I just wanted to make sure That it appears I did everything right.

The settings screen now reads Mild Tune only and has version..

SW-1.03.1. TV-6.8.32

Also, is there any way with the XRT that I can set it to have the engine brake come on automatically whenever I start it? Thanks for everyone's help....I would not have tried any if this without your support!!!

Glad you figured it out! No you can't use your xrt to set the engine brake to come on automatically at startup. It will come on with the button turned on at idle in park if the ambient temp is cold enough. High idle will automatically engage too if it's cold enough as well.

I'd recommend running tow timing 2 with the standard H&S tuning. That's a very safe tune. Tow 3 is good too but tow 2 is safer. Street fueling needs timing 3.

Set your transmission line pressure to 170 psi. That's a notch above the stock 160 psi and is great for a stock transmission.

Now if you ever decide to go with a mcc tune, you won't have to worry about any this any more. LOL.

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[Gsxrgrizz]

Yea, I've been rethinking my choices since I installed them. Tomorrow I was going to go with the Tow tune and level 2 timing. Will I now notice a difference in get up and go after I install the tow with timing 2???

Thanks for the heads up about the transmission line pressure. The only reason I said no was because it came up with a warning about it should only be used with modified transmissions. I'll boost that up as well!!!

As for the custom tune, I'll be contacting you soon for one. All of this is just to get me up and running until we can finish that. Thanks again for all the help!!!!

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[DRD]

Yea, I've been rethinking my choices since I installed them. Tomorrow I was going to go with the Tow tune and level 2 timing. Will I now notice a difference in get up and go after I install the tow with timing 2???

Thanks for the heads up about the transmission line pressure. The only reason I said no was because it came up with a warning about it should only be used with modified transmissions. I'll boost that up as well!!!

As for the custom tune, I'll be contacting you soon for one. All of this is just to get me up and running until we can finish that. Thanks again for all the help!!!!

Tow 2 is a tad more powerful than the factory tune but not by much. It's the safest box tune with good power and that's why many folks run it.

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[Polaraco]

Just my .02 and years of experience

Upper limit 1300 is rally hot. As long as you don't stay in that range too long. If you are towing, kick it out of OD and the engine won't lug as much. EGT's should go down. Set the CTS for 1150. That way you'll have a warning before you get into it too far.

You're probably safe with 35 PSI. That's pretty much factory. Just remember, the 6.7's tend to pop head gaskets sooner than the 5.9's do

When you figure out the turbo timer, set it for 300* F. Idle times will vary then. Again, if you tow, this feature is invaluable. Good, cheap insurance.

If the DPF and NOX is gone, idle away. However, you still have a catalytic converter. They usually don't give you a problem.

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[DRD]

Just my .02 and years of experience

Upper limit 1300 is rally hot. As long as you don't stay in that range too long. If you are towing, kick it out of OD and the engine won't lug as much. EGT's should go down. Set the CTS for 1150. That way you'll have a warning before you get into it too far.

You're probably safe with 35 PSI. That's pretty much factory. Just remember, the 6.7's tend to pop head gaskets sooner than the 5.9's do

When you figure out the turbo timer, set it for 300* F. Idle times will vary then. Again, if you tow, this feature is invaluable. Good, cheap insurance.

If the DPF and NOX is gone, idle away. However, you still have a catalytic converter. They usually don't give you a problem.

Let me just add that I used to think 1300 was blazing hot too. If we were talking a 5.9, that's exactly right. I actually talked with Cummins about this a while back and they actually said a 6.7 can run sustained egts of 1250 degrees all day long. They engineered them to take the heat due to do all the emissions restraints and the rigors of Regens. 6.7s incorporate special alloy pistons and piston oilers to keep them melting away under the heat. The factory Holset turbos are built to take the excess heat as well. Setting a CTS to warn at 1150 degrees is a very good suggestion and gives plenty of wiggle room on a deleted truck. I just want guys to know that higher egts on a 6.7 is nothing to freak out about. I know of trucks personally that have hit 2000 degrees on a drag strip run and lived. The secret there though is that heat was short lived. I've hit 1600 on my truck during testing in short burst but I rather stay in the safe zone.

The main reason a 6.7 will pop a gasket quicker than a 5.9 is the lack of surface area for the gasket to seal on...especially between the bores. 5.9s and 6.7s have one thing in common and that is bore spacing. The added displacement comes from a larger bore and stroke. So when a 6.7 has the same bore spacing as a 5.9 but larger cylinder bores, you loose flat surface between cylinders for a head gasket to seal on, therefore making blown gaskets easier to happen. Add to that added exhaust back pressure of the VGT that the 6.7 uses, then blown gaskets happen far too much. 6.7 bores are so close together that Cummins had to make them in a Siamese arrangement, meaning there is solid metal between bores for stability rather than the open coolant space that 5.9s would have.

One thing that is signature in our tuning for 6.7 trucks in that we set our turbo maps to alleviate as much back pressure as possible but still allow for good spool up and boost. This goes a long ways in saving blown gaskets but if you are going to run a 6.7 hard, it would be wise to install head studs.

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[Power247]

Congrats Grizz!!! Nothing more to add to what has already been stated by Ray and Polaraco. Just really happy to hear you are enjoying the changes to your truck.

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