That friggin stinks. I hate when companies don't stand behind their products
Greg
2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | Custom tuned by Double R Diesel
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310
That friggin stinks. I hate when companies don't stand behind their products
Greg
2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | Custom tuned by Double R Diesel
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310
Greg
2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI
I so agree Sir!! I hate getting the run around!
2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, MM3 tuned by Double R Diesel, Rough Country Leveling, 35x12.50 Nitto G2, HID headlights and fogs plus many many other add ons.....
2016 RAM 3500 4x4 Laramie Crew Cab ,G56
Makes me think you are not the first to have this happen.
2013 Ram 2500 Big Horn 4x4 G56 CCLB 6.7, MM3 Tuned by Double R Diesel, Flo-Pro 4" Exhaust, Deviant Race Parts Goodies, ARP Head Studs, South Bend Clutch, 3" Thuren Front Springs w/Fox Shocks All-Around, Hell-Bent Steel Steering Box Brace, Thuren Track Bar, Air-Lift 5000, Deviant Race Parts 70" Traction Bars, Falken Wild-Peak AT3W LT285/75R18 (34.8x11.3x18) on Moto Metal MO970 18x9 +18mm
Good news!! I sent another email stating I was going to start a complaint with PayPal and BAM! They refunded my money. LOL
2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, MM3 tuned by Double R Diesel, Rough Country Leveling, 35x12.50 Nitto G2, HID headlights and fogs plus many many other add ons.....
2016 RAM 3500 4x4 Laramie Crew Cab ,G56
Ha! That's great news!!
2013 Ram 2500 Big Horn 4x4 G56 CCLB 6.7, MM3 Tuned by Double R Diesel, Flo-Pro 4" Exhaust, Deviant Race Parts Goodies, ARP Head Studs, South Bend Clutch, 3" Thuren Front Springs w/Fox Shocks All-Around, Hell-Bent Steel Steering Box Brace, Thuren Track Bar, Air-Lift 5000, Deviant Race Parts 70" Traction Bars, Falken Wild-Peak AT3W LT285/75R18 (34.8x11.3x18) on Moto Metal MO970 18x9 +18mm
Awesome!
Greg
2012 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | MM3 tuned by Double R Diesel
2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310
Greg
2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI
Looked at my 2nd Gen. Swap still in progress again
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
Looking nice. Best of all, the Whataburger in the background!
My wife got me a Tusnami MF1050 air pump for Xmas, for off road tire filling. It's in a couple articles and a cheap beginner pump, that can be used as a backup if you upgrade. I had a lot of the stuff except the hose to do an on board air system so I'm not sure what it would cost total.
I had a harbor freight 5 gallon portable tank from a boat project where I need so air on the boat. I always pick up compressor fitting and connectors. I had a random 35' hose from a bostich compressor/kit I bought years ago. I also had the wire lying around also. The only thing I had to buy was the air brake hose and connectors, so why not plumb my truck, right.
I removed the oem jack and Jack amount and used the screw down hardware to bolt down the air pump mount. My plant is to mount the jack behind the back seat or under it if it will fit with the mount. The pump fit perfect under the passenger front seat, but you loose one click (about and inch) on the seat reversing backward. The next place I was thinking about using was the hidden storage boxes in the floor bc the pump fit in there great.
I mounted the pump on 1/2" starboard for a solid mount and to raise the floor up a bit to level out the area so the back of the pump would be flush. You'll see it's not level under the seat.
I went down to Goodyear rubber/hydraulic hose store and they had Parker air brake hose. I went with 1/2" so the pump didn't have to push through such a small hose vs 1/4". They had prestolok push-to-connect fittings that had the 1/4"NPT fittings to connect to all the compressor side of things. The guy said the burst pressure in the book said 950 PSI. It didn't give a Max working PSI, but he said it should be about 300 for the max PSI. It was a $1.79 per foot and around $5 per connector.
I used 4 gauge wire from the battery to an automatic breaker, down, and along the passenger side frame. I zip tied to the other harnesess, and then up through the plastic fitting on the passenger side floor below the seat. Then to another breaker becuase I needed a safe connection for the 4guage wire to connect the pump wire. There wasn't enough room in the pump for an electrical connector that big. I redid the relay inside to a Bosch relay, and increased the wire gauge sizes in the pump as well to 10g.
I ran the prestolok push to connect 90 with 1/4NPT from the pump down through the floor and sealed it with 3m 5200. At sharp edges I used pieces of hose to slide to the spots encase of vibration/abrasion. Next, I routed the hose to a tank in the fender. I went to a metal yard and had a 1.5" strip of stainless strap cut off a sheet metal piece. The strap connected to some random bolt holes that must be there for some upgrade reason. Anyway from the tank I went into the bed of the truck near the tailgate through the pillar there that had a hole towards the top. I have an on-off valve there then a coupler in case I want to connect or disconnect the hose if it's in the way. The on-off valve will make sure it doesn't leak.
I have it pressurized to 100psi right now to watch over night for leaks. It took a couple minutes to get to that. It's a pretty impressive pump for $50
I'll add this the the newbie guide for future reference encase anyone wants to do something similar.
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2012 2500 ST w/ manmual 4x4 from the auction w 16k miles - Upgrades so far - Leather, LED bed lights, HID projectors, Nav = Appradio3 w ARU unchained reloaded full touch screencast & tailgate handle backup camera, homemade front hitch and reciever w 12k lb winch, reverse lights, soft open tailgate, transfercase linkage mod, Ultra and deletes, folding back seat mod, Kicker hideaway under drivers seat, Fumoto valve and safety clip, new warrantied turbo at 16k. Rocker Aux panel switches, Ford fold away bed extender, inverter outlet mod, soon an overhead console. Pulling a 2001 Prokat 2200WA around on my days off.
I also added 35s last week with no lift. I added all the Info, videos, and explanations etc to the newbie guide. I can still get my toys in the back without buying onger ramps.
Note: use a heat gun to mold the plastic fender back so you don't have to cut the plastic away. So you don't hit when turning. The offset prevent any rubbing on the control arm.
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2012 2500 ST w/ manmual 4x4 from the auction w 16k miles - Upgrades so far - Leather, LED bed lights, HID projectors, Nav = Appradio3 w ARU unchained reloaded full touch screencast & tailgate handle backup camera, homemade front hitch and reciever w 12k lb winch, reverse lights, soft open tailgate, transfercase linkage mod, Ultra and deletes, folding back seat mod, Kicker hideaway under drivers seat, Fumoto valve and safety clip, new warrantied turbo at 16k. Rocker Aux panel switches, Ford fold away bed extender, inverter outlet mod, soon an overhead console. Pulling a 2001 Prokat 2200WA around on my days off.
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