2012 Dodge

[Dakota.McArtor]

So that bag of parts is increasing the flow from the CP3 pump to the injectors? Which head studs would you suggest. The ARP 625's or what. Cause right now as I had it worked out I would buy the built transmission. I saw on the website they recommended a triple disc torque converter. But if I were to do that I wouldn't be able to afford the head studs. So at this point it's either the Head studs or the torque converter. I'm thinking head studs because that trans will survive with the mild tuning i have going on right now correct? What would you guys say? Thanks for all the info guys it really helps out a lot

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[Rockwerx]

Get a turbo and new exhaust manifold before any thing else IMO. You don't have to mat it while you save up for a built transmission. In the mean time your engine will gain torque, fuel economy and be a lot more reliable. After that I would save up for head studs and finally fuel mods.

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[Calibrated Addiction]

IMO add air before fuel. However you are going to want to be careful with the VGT in a compound setup they can make alot of torque extremely low in the RPM range (hard on the bottom end as well as the trans). Studs would likely be nessisary with that setup at least with the compounds where as a large single you don't absolutely have to run them. Trans would be a good idea as well. as far as the bag-o-parts it also wont hurt a thing

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[Wildkarrd RRD]

Some say (and I agree) air before fuel. Let it breathe right and she gets plenty of fuel as is.... However, supporting mods before anything else. I gotta disagree with rockwerx here. Get all the weak points taken care of before you start adding more power adders. That way it can be done on your time and as you can afford it. Personal experience in adding too much umph, before weak points are taken care of results in either being without your truck until you can afford it, and/or an expensive fix that could have been a less expensive prevention... Studs and trans first. As long as you put them in right and torque to 150-155ft/lbs final the ARP2000's will hold fine unless you plan on pushing more than 75-80psi. They are a lot cheaper than the 625's so might allow you to get the converter you need with the trans.

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[Polaraco]

Yes on the Bag of parts. However, you want to do that when you do the injectors. I've heard of issues if done before the sticks.

Terrorist, Stu and I were the early boys with these 6.7's. We all worked on the deletes, and getting optimum performance on a budget. Drew, I hate to tell you but Air is a big one on these. I drove my NOX way down with the right air mods. As I mentioned above, that was a good formula. Connected to a good tune, that sucker will scream. From what I determined, all you need is the high volume compressor blades over dual turbos.

Then do the trans, then do the sticks. If you follow the pattern I gave you, you may not want to go with the sticks.

Don't forget to put in a FASS 150 too.

Once you have all this power, what are you going to do with it? Besides break stuff

I'm a conservitive, bit got my rig up to 25 MPH highway

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[Wildkarrd RRD]

I agree with the intake and letting it breathe being a supporting mod. Sure you gain some power, and efficiency out of it, but it allows the stock VGT to push higher cfm with less restriction therefore support. Sorry, maybe I've just broken too many parts already that now I personally don't see upgrading turbo and manifold itself as a good idea until everything else can support more airflow and resulting power

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[Rockwerx]

I did extensive testing with many parts combinations on my first 6.7. The reason I say that a larger turbo (with a high flow exhaust manifold) is easier on the engine is because drive pressures are reduced over the entire rpm band running the exact same tuning. EGTs are also down. The stock setup would run well over 60 psi drive pressure with around 32 psi boost (with extreme EGTs). After market turbo I ran would run 30DP at 30boost with safe EGT levels (same tuning, just a turbo swap). The point I am making is that my engine experiences less stress with the larger free breathing turbo. I know that many people have run a larger turbo on their 6.7 with the stock head bolts with long term success.

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[Canadiandiesel]

All stock setups almost have a 2:1 ratio of drive/boost, ideal is 1:1 btw

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[Wildkarrd RRD]

I did extensive testing with many parts combinations on my first 6.7. The reason I say that a larger turbo (with a high flow exhaust manifold) is easier on the engine is because drive pressures are reduced over the entire rpm band running the exact same tuning. EGTs are also down. The stock setup would run well over 60 psi drive pressure with around 32 psi boost (with extreme EGTs). After market turbo I ran would run 30DP at 30boost with safe EGT levels (same tuning, just a turbo swap). The point I am making is that my engine experiences less stress with the larger free breathing turbo. I know that many people have run a larger turbo on their 6.7 with the stock head bolts with long term success.

alrighty, I see where your getting at and why it does make sense for turbo first.

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[Dakota.McArtor]

Ok guys so lets say I was to do the turbo upgrades first. Just as a hypothetical. Which turbos or compound turbo system would be the best? Is there any correlation between the exhaust manifold and the sound of the truck. I know this may piss some of you guys off but I really like the sound of my 4th gen and would rather not put a 2nd or 3rd gen exhaust manifold on and change the sound. Petty I know...... So that leads to this question is there any t-4 exhaust manifolds made from the 4th gen? Head studs are going on either way no matter what. There are just so many different parts and i haven't experienced everyone of them enough to say which one is better than the other.
Thanks everyone for your input it is much appreciated.

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