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Thread: 1976 dodge dart CUMMINS12 valve swap HELP!

  1. Top Of Page | #21
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    http://Moparmax.com/tech/2007/ii_5-tubs-1.html

    Here is a link on a short piece about mini tub on your Mopar there are lots of articles on line that give you pointers on how to do this and placed to get the parts to perform this action.


  2. Top Of Page | #22
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan Payne View Post
    so my friend, the dart has an A body? Good to know. I would love any hints on the engineering of such a reinforcement on the frame because let's be honest I don't know much about it at all. Thanks!
    A is just the body designation. A B C E J K


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

  3. Top Of Page | #23
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    You are going to have to almost completely chop up the Duster in order to make the engine fit into the firewall let alone all of the extensive mods needed for traction and to hold the weight and huge torque this engine is capable of. It might be easier (and more cost effective) to remove the truck's body work so you can shorten the frame and then graft the Duster body on to the modified truck frame. Then you at least know the frame, steering parts, suspension, rear differential, etc are up to the task for stock and further mods. Lots of stuff for you to think about. I would start with a tape measure and start to figure out how much space everything takes up and how much space is available and go from there.

    Good luck with your project!


  4. Top Of Page | #24
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    mmm unibody


  5. Top Of Page | #25
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    The mods Stu is talking about don't affect the unibody. Problem is the car wasn't made for that kind of torque. I guess if you drove it easy it would work. The K frame is sorta beefy, but the rails won't hold up. I used to twist brand new Dusters with a 340.


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

  6. Top Of Page | #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polaraco View Post
    The mods Stu is talking about don't affect the unibody. Problem is the car wasn't made for that kind of torque. I guess if you drove it easy it would work. The K frame is sorta beefy, but the rails won't hold up. I used to twist brand new Dusters with a 340.
    My dads '70 Challenger has hairline cracks on the pillars from twisting and all it has is a nicely built 340 and thats with sub frame connectors and some other stuff to stiffen the E body


  7. Top Of Page | #27
    Old & Grumpy! Polaraco's Avatar

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    E and A are basically the same base. Use that as an example to set up yours. I used to break windshields and have back windows pop out. They hated that on the track. I started duct taping the glass in


    2003- 3500 RWD Automatic.
    S & B intake, BD Intercooler, Pusher Air Horn, MM3 Double R Tuning, Turbo Timer, electric Flex-a-lite fans, FASS 95,
    50 HP tips, upgrade to 351 turbo, 3.42 gears, Twin air compressors, air bags, Remote dual oil filters, Hellwig sway bar, Front Winch. Home made Fuel Heater, BD Exhaust brake with Torque Lock. Tons of TLC

  8. Thanks Jonathan Payne thanked for this post
  9. Top Of Page | #28
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    Ok thanks guys. For now this is all good info and a good start point. Now it's time to pull the old 318 out and have a closer look at what I'm up against. Thanks again!
    Jonathan


  10. Top Of Page | #29
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    If you give up on your project you could always threefortyize your 318. I built one for my 74 Valiant many years ago. It performed very well. 340 is the engine of choice in these cars...excellent torque and they handle well still. The modified slant six cars handled the best but lack torque. The A body cars were built with three different K members..possibly a 4th one for the Hemi cars...but one for the slant six, one for the small blocks and one for the big blocks. The sixes were sometimes installed into the small block k member. Not sure if the strength is different between them...I do know the engine perches are different.

    Anyway, looking forward to seeing how you go about your swap! Good luck!


  11. Top Of Page | #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockwerx View Post
    If you give up on your project you could always threefortyize your 318. I built one for my 74 Valiant many years ago. It performed very well. 340 is the engine of choice in these cars...excellent torque and they handle well still. The modified slant six cars handled the best but lack torque. The A body cars were built with three different K members..possibly a 4th one for the Hemi cars...but one for the slant six, one for the small blocks and one for the big blocks. The sixes were sometimes installed into the small block k member. Not sure if the strength is different between them...I do know the engine perches are different.

    Anyway, looking forward to seeing how you go about your swap! Good luck!
    Thanks man, I won't give it up. I'm going to do it till it's done. I have the resources to get it done as well as some sort of plan that I'm sure will be not easy to accomplish but I won't give up! I've already invested my money in the donor truck so I'm in now!


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