Drag Link / Steering Stabilizer Shock?

[Channelbouy]

RAM 2500 Off-road w/ 112k miles, fully stock suspension.

Getting new tires and shocks, the shop also recommended a new steering stabilizer shock, and possibly a new drag link, as mine is welded.

Question:
1) Should I stay with the Mopar steering shock or opt for Bilstein?

If Bilstein, is there any benefit to the double?

2) Thoughts on draglink.

Upgrade to new Mopar part#68338342AD, synergy, Carli?

Or have them grind welds and re-weld?

The tires will be 285/60/R20, and the shocks will be Bilstein 4600.

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[z28-50]

What's your avatar?

Looks a lot like a GSP.

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[badbajawa]

Do the joints warrant it being replaced?

I'd just grind and reweld if not it's two 1/4" beads.

You can take it back to the dealer and they will reweld it for you even.

I'd upgrade to something like the Thuren or Carli single King/fox stabilizer.

Well worth it

Sent from my SM-S938U using Tapatalk

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[Channelbouy]

What's your avatar?

Looks a lot like a GSP.

Pudelpointer!

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[sootmaster]

Hello, I would take a few pictures of the area.

Look for good weld penetration that is free of cracks and heavy rust.

A newer style link from the aftermarket is far better than OEM, and it has cheap manufacturing.

If you don't notice wondering while driving highway speeds and uneven road surfaces, then some inspectors are into recom and wallet flush your wallet fishing.

If you do not notice driving, I would disregard it if the boots are nice, not cracked or torn, and rust-free.

You should not see play when someone turns the wheel back and forth while you look, not running or in gear.

Easy check, visual ++.

Steering shocks cushion side-to-side movement, like MUD ruts, back and forth.

For highway drivers, stock is fine for finger-tip driving; more shocks make it harder to steer back and forth and in parking lots.

Just a driving preference.

Test back and forth with the helper and look for play and movement!

Old tire wear on the outside of the camber.

The caster is not the tire wear angle.

Look at all tie rods and boots and look for play.

Also, grease any with fittings, and look at the Ball joints.

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[Channelbouy]

Hello, I would take a few pictures of the area.

Look for good weld penetration that is free of cracks and heavy rust.

A newer style link from the aftermarket is far better than OEM, and it has cheap manufacturing.

If you don't notice wondering while driving highway speeds and uneven road surfaces, then some inspectors are into recom and wallet flush your wallet fishing.

If you do not notice driving, I would disregard it if the boots are nice, not cracked or torn, and rust-free.

You should not see play when someone turns the wheel back and forth while you look, not running or in gear.

Easy check, visual ++.

Steering shocks cushion side-to-side movement, like MUD ruts, back and forth.

For highway drivers, stock is fine for fingertip driving; more shocks make it harder to steer back and forth, especially in parking lots.

Just a driving preference.

Test back and forth with the helper and look for play and movement!

Old tire wear on the outside of the camber.

The caster is not the tire wear angle.

Look at all tie rods and boots and look for play.

Also, grease any with fittings, and look at the Ball joints.

Thanks for the detailed explanation!!

Steering feels Ok overall; the steering wheel is straight with no play and even tire wear.

Also, the rubber boots looked ok.

Doing some research, I found Apex Chassis to get good reviews: https://ddpmotorsports.com/products/...f2e3aad3&_ss=r

Saw this kit on both DDP and CJC off-road websites.

Figure if I upgrade the drag link, I might as well do the tie bar at the same time.

If I decide to go the Apex route rather than stock, will I need anything extra, or is it just a matter of removing old parts and bolting on new?

The truck has 112,000 miles, so I will probably have to replace the ball joints soon as well.

I am having a shop do the work due to my limited knowledge and free time, so I am hoping to get everything done at the same time.

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[sootmaster]

Will the drag link reset the axle centerline if it has an adjustable tie rod end?

Therefore, the steering wheel will also be affected, and any tie rods will need to be replaced, potentially requiring an alignment.

Any Fiber nuts or hardware will need to be replaced, as well as cotter pins.

Check the Pitman arm for play.

I would perform any necessary front-end work to ensure optimal alignment for the best tire wear.

Also, cross-tracking where someone behind you notices that the front to rear is not straight.

Inspect the rubber 4-links to the rear axle for cracks that are deep or off-center.

Depends on how you use the truck.

I use mine mostly ranch and drag houses all over, so I wait till things fall off LOL or clangggg

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[johnmyster]

FWIW, I'm using Bilstein 33-170794 on my 2014.

It's not listed for a 4th gen, but it can be used. (Standard dampener for a 3rd gen.)

You need to use a washer or two on one end to snug the crush sleeve up in the mount.

I've made some modifications (see my signature) for improved steering.

Mostly, I didn't get much for my money compared to the 80k mile factory parts.

The drag link didn't have enough play to warrant replacement.

The track bar was fine.

The most significant improvement was the new steering box.

The Bilstein was discernibly stiffer than the stock damper, but not by a significant amount.

Tell your shop to stop parts cannoning that you didn't ask for.

If the parts are tight and you're not lifting the truck, keep them until they are worn.

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