GDP / Bank's - Grid Heater Delete Comparison

[AK Bob]

Well, got through that with no leaks.

I do have a lightning bolt for the electronic throttle and high coolant fan constant.

Couldn’t recall the process to relearn throttle, so got everything packed away for the rains.

Will address that today.

Next up, tidying, shortening, and re-routing lines for the oil bypass and coolant filter, and removing the beauty cover bracket at the front of the valve cover (I forgot).

Looking good. See the “Throttle Pedal Position Sensor” re-learn procedure below.

Simply unplugging the “Throttle Valve” should not require the re-learn and the viscus fan is controlled by the ECM.

I would recommend going back over the work performed yesterday and checking to make sure everything is plugged in the correct locations and there are no pinched wires or harness damage.

To reset the electronic throttle control system, perform the following:

• Insert the ignition key and turn to the "ON" position but do not start the engine
• Wait for all the warning lights to go out. The check engine light may remain on.
• Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
• Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it is all the way back up at the rest position.
• Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position.
• Start the engine and test the throttle by see if the engine will throttle up.

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[CrazyTrain]

Thanks for that Bob.

I didn’t see the post until I was done, but funny story: I did that procedure from memory about 4 times to no avail, so I investigated further.

I had forgotten a connector or three.

One was crankcase pressure and the other was, of all things the inlet air temp, and the MAP sensor!

How I missed that, I will never know. I know I was hot and exhausted, but geez.

Anyhow got it all squared away.

I rechecked all connections this time.

Had my code reader out and everything, LOL!

Just doing some cleaning in the shop today.

Have a good day and as usual.

Thanks Bigly for all your insight and help.

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[AK Bob]

Thanks for that Bob.

I didn’t see the post until I was done, but funny story: I did that procedure from memory about 4 times to no avail, so I investigated further.

I had forgotten a connector or three.

One was crankcase pressure and the other was, of all things the inlet air temp, and the MAP sensor!

How I missed that, I will never know. I know I was hot and exhausted, but geez.

Anyhow got it all squared away.

I rechecked all connections this time.

Had my code reader out and everything, LOL!

Just doing some cleaning in the shop today.

Have a good day and as usual.

Thanks Bigly for all your insight and help.

Good work, all makes sense now.

Happy to help where I can, pleased to hear it was a simple fix.

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[CrazyTrain]

The other weird thing that made me look closer at connectors, was that I lost a whole page of “apps” on the center screen at the same time.

No off-road pages, etc., and the screen was a weird color.

Anyhow, all is happy now.

PSA for the day, check and recheck all the connections then go have a cold one!

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[CrazyTrain]

One additional note on the Bank's install: the supplied hex key should not be used to torque the intake horn bolts, as it will likely twist into a pretzel. .

Use the appropriate 6mm socket Allen.

I would also suggest Trukstuf's method of leaving fuel lines 5 and 6 in place, but loosening line #5 and carefully raising the fuel rail to slide the plate out, and then installing a new one.

I followed Banks' instructions, which had loosened and rotated out of the way.

That was #6, where I spent time trying to ensure it was tight and worrying about possible leaks.

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[sootmaster]

Hello friends.

Anytime, have the injectors' injection feed tubes off.

I would add an additional step: while apart, clean the area and retorque the cross tubes to the injectors.

This added step is worth the additional safeguard going forward.

If anyone is considering these upgrades.

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