Need Some Help!

[Ironhand90]

I put my truck on a diet EGR, new intake without grid heater, air horn, 5-inch turbo back, and 2 new batteries.

Got my MM3 and had my daughter do the computer stuff for me.

Didn't put on charge because I thought I was good with 2 new batteries.

I got the completed screen.

Went to install the trans and it said low battery so I went to crank the truck but it won't start spit and sputters.

With the abundance of articles, I haven't been able to find what I need to do next.

How do I move forward?

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[Corkey]

Just to rule it out, even though they are new, try hooking a tender up to a battery.

Make sure the terminals are tight corrosion-free %100.

I ran all over the engine bay trying to trace everything down for low voltage.

It was the cross-over cable that had just enough junk on the connections to give me issues.

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[Ironhand90]

Just to rule it out, even though they are new, try hooking a tender up to a battery.

Make sure the terminals are tight corrosion-free %100.

I ran all over the engine bay trying to trace everything down for low voltage.

It was the cross-over cable that had just enough junk on the connections to give me issues.

When I make sure the voltage is correct and put a tender on it do I reinstall?

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[AK Bob]

When I make sure the voltage is correct and put a tender on it do I reinstall?

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Once the new batteries are fully charged see if the truck will crank and run.

If not try reloading your tunes again with the battery charger attached.

If you did the intake horn and grid heater delete with the tuning all at the same time, you may have disturbed the injector feed tube nuts and have excessive fuel return.

To verify this check your fuel rail pressure actual vs desired and report back.

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[Ironhand90]

I put my truck on a diet EGR, new intake without grid heater, air horn, 5-inch turbo back, and 2 new batteries.

Got my MM3 and had my daughter do the computer stuff for me.

Didn't put on charge because I thought I was good with 2 new batteries.

I got the completed screen.

Went to install the trans and it said low battery so I went to crank the truck but it won't start spit and sputters.

With the abundance of articles, I haven't been able to find what I need to do next.

How do I move forward?

Sent from my SM-S546VL using Tapatalk

I did all this in one sitting, and I didn't use a torque wrench on any of it.

I completely removed the fuel rail and fuel lines.

I didn't use any gasket maker with the gaskets nor lock tight any of it.

I was under a shade tree in the yard.

I didn't crank the truck before I flashed it I didn't think I could.

I had 12.6 on batteries after the flash checked at all the grounds in the engine bay and both batteries all reading the same.

I just got a tender going to see how that goes moving forward.

I will post an update in a few hours.

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[AK Bob]

I did all this in one sitting, and I didn't use a torque wrench on any of it.

I completely removed the fuel rail and fuel lines.

I didn't use any gasket maker with the gaskets nor lock tight any of it.

I was under a shade tree in the yard.

I didn't crank the truck before I flashed it I didn't think I could.

I had 12.6 on batteries after the flash checked at all the grounds in the engine bay and both batteries all reading the same.

I just got a tender going to see how that goes moving forward.

I will post an update in a few hours.

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Depending on your next update, you may need to torque the injector tube nuts to 41 ft/lbs.

It’s pretty standard to loosen them when accidentally removing the fuel lines.

They won’t leak fuel visible from the outside, but will return fuel to the tank, dropping the rail pressure and starving the injectors.

You need at least 4,300 psi of actual rail pressure for the truck to start and run.

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[Ironhand90]

Depending on your next update, you may need to torque the injector tube nuts to 41 ft/lbs.

It’s pretty standard to loosen them when accidentally removing the fuel lines.

They won’t leak fuel visible from the outside, but will return fuel to the tank, dropping the rail pressure and starving the injectors.

You need at least 4,300 psi of actual rail pressure for the truck to start and run.

That's what I am figuring, we had rain set in down here today.

I got the tender on it and will pick it up in the morning.

I don't have a scanner smart enough to tell fuel pressure, but I will try to borrow one.

I either loosened one or over-tightened one.

If I back them all off a bit and re-torque them, then correctly do I need to replace them?

From what I have read, I know they are crush fittings.

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[AK Bob]

That's what I am figuring, we had rain set in down here today.

I got the tender on it and will pick it up in the morning.

I don't have a scanner smart enough to tell fuel pressure, but I will try to borrow one.

I either loosened one or over-tightened one.

If I back them all off a bit and re-torque them, then correctly do I need to replace them?

From what I have read, I know they are crush fittings.

Sent from my SM-S546VL using Tapatalk

You can monitor the actual and desired fuel rail pressure with your MM3.

You will be okay re-torquing the injector tube nuts.

They are a crush fit, but since you are keeping them with the original injectors, they should be good.

Remove the fuel lines and re-torque the tube nuts with a socket.

You can try a crow’s foot, but it isn’t easy without removing the fuel lines.

See attached information on the injector tubes and fuel lines.

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[Ironhand90]

You can monitor the actual and desired fuel rail pressure with your MM3.

You will be okay re-torquing the injector tube nuts.

They are a crush fit, but since you are keeping them with the original injectors, they should be good.

Remove the fuel lines and re-torque the tube nuts with a socket.

You can try a crow’s foot, but it isn’t easy without removing the fuel lines.

See attached information on the injector tubes and fuel lines.

How do I check my fuel rail pressure with my MM3?

I am looking over the forums and can't find anything.

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[AK Bob]

How do I check my fuel rail pressure with my MM3?

I am looking over the forums and can't find anything.

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From the gauge screen, you select the one you want to change, then go to the "Pressure" list and scroll through to select the PID, in this case, Fuel rail pressure actual or desired.

We don't have a comprehensive MM3 user guide, but the attached information on the Smarty Touch should give you enough information to get started.

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