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I got a break in the rain batteries were fully charged, with no crank, then reflashed still no crank.Originally Posted by AK Bob
As far as the fuel pressure goes I can't get the right menu this is the option I have.
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Rain will be out in the next couple of days I got a harbor freight torque wrench going to pull the lines check the intake bolts loosen the stem nuts just a hair then retorque to 40 lbs.
I have read multiple torque specs from 22ftlbs, 37 ftlbs, and your suggestion is 40 lbs.
Reinstall lines I got a crowsfoot to torque those in at spec as well.
Will update you when I get all this finished
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AK Bob thanked for this post
Do you have a no-crank?
Prior you had a crank with no start with spit and sputters.
Looks like you are in the wrong MM3 menu.
From the Gauge screen (Ist picture), touch the screen for the main menu (2nd screen), press “PID config” to go to (3rd screen) then press the gauge you want to configure on the (4th screen) press “Change” to go to (5th screen) select the “Pressure” on the (6th screen) select the PID you want, in this case, “Rail Pressure Actual or Desired” then press “OK”.
Repeat this procedure for the next gauge you want to configure.
Sorry, the torque specifications I sent you are for my 2014, you will need to look up the torque specs for your year model.
I apologize for some unknown reason the last picture is displayed upside down.
Hopefully, you will get the idea.
Last edited by AK Bob; 16 Hours Ago at 12:28 AM. Reason: Rotated photos but unable to correct the last one.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator, Steed Speed Exhaust Manifold, Glacier Diesel Intake Horn and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
Hey, thank you so much you have been greatly appreciated.
It turns over and spits and sputters.
I will go threw the motions to check fuel pressure before I start taking it back apart.
It will give me more peace of mind knowing it's right anyway.
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That sounds good; I assume you have allowed the fuel system to self-prime by cycling the ignition key to run, waiting 10 seconds, and repeating this up to a dozen times.
If you are primed, the most likely issue is that you have excessive fuel return due to loose injector tube nuts and cannot create the desired fuel rail pressure.
Good luck, and please keep us posted.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator, Steed Speed Exhaust Manifold, Glacier Diesel Intake Horn and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
I only primed 5 or 6 times, but I will add that to my to-do list before I pull it apart.
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I did some research, and according to the 2008 RAM Service Manual, the injector connector nut torque for the 5.9L diesel is 37 ft. lbs.
If you have the 6.7L, I would go with the 41 ft. lbs.
Hope this helps (See attached).
Last edited by AK Bob; 14 Hours Ago at 01:49 AM.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator, Steed Speed Exhaust Manifold, Glacier Diesel Intake Horn and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
Update: thanks to the in-depth information on the MM3, I found no fuel pressure.
On actual and actual SAE.
I guess one is metric and one standard, but I checked both.
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Primed 12 times, and it fired up.
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Thanks for your update and congratulations on getting her running again.
I use RP-D (Rail Pressure Desired) and RP (Rail Pressure Actual).
Not sure what the SAE stands for, I thought perhaps “Society of Automotive Engineers” LOL.
Perhaps others will enlighten us and chime in with their thoughts.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator, Steed Speed Exhaust Manifold, Glacier Diesel Intake Horn and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
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