700HP Daily Driver Build?

[chadghebert]

I’m just getting started on what I hope to be a 700-ish HP DD build.

As soon as more devices are available, I’ll replace my EFI Live with an MM3 loaded with the magic dust I’ve heard so much about.

Before that, though, I just purchased & received my ARP625s & getting ready to install them.

After a while, it’s open; let’s take care of everything mindset.

I’m looking at replacing valve springs, retainers, rocker arms, bridges, push rods, injectors, & feed tubes all at the same time.

With the goal in mind, my question is, is it all necessary or extreme overkill?

Injectors & tubes are a no-brainer, but I’ve seen mixed reviews for the rest.

It is & will continue to be my daily driver that I will tow an 18,000# travel trailer occasionally (Once every 2-3 years).

I don’t mind spending the money as long as it is a wise decision.

I am pretty easy on my truck, but I have a lead foot on open roads.

I already have Randy’s stage 2 transmission kit being delivered & installed next week.

Here is the total build list I currently have in order.

I know most do turbo first, but if possible, I would like to true up the top end before the turbo.

Any advice is appreciated.

1st Round
Jenny Craig Program
Pusher Intake
Randy’s Stage 2 Built Transmission 750hp Rated
Fleece Coolant Bypass
ARP625s
Hamilton Rocker Arms with Studs
Hamilton Forged Bridges
Hamilton 103 Springs
Hamilton Extreme Duty Push Rods
DDP 40% Over 150hp Injectors
DDP Modified Connector Tubes

2nd Round
Fleece Cheetah Turbo (Prefer to Keep a VGT)
Fleece Coolant Drain
Fleece Oil Feed
Fleece Speed Sensor
Stead Speed Manifold
Manifold Stud Kit
FASS No Drop 165 with Sump
S&S 10mm CP3


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[sawyerc]

I’m just getting started on what I hope to be a 700-ish HP DD build.

As soon as more devices are available, I’ll replace my EFI Live with an MM3 loaded with the magic dust I’ve heard so much about.

Before that, though, I just purchased & received my ARP625s & getting ready to install them.

After a while, it’s open; let’s take care of everything mindset.

I’m looking at replacing valve springs, retainers, rocker arms, bridges, push rods, injectors, & feed tubes all at the same time.

With the goal in mind, my question is, is it all necessary or extreme overkill?

Injectors & tubes are a no-brainer, but I’ve seen mixed reviews for the rest.

It is & will continue to be my daily driver that I will tow an 18,000# travel trailer occasionally (Once every 2-3 years).

I don’t mind spending the money as long as it is a wise decision.

I am pretty easy on my truck, but I have a lead foot on open roads.

I already have Randy’s stage 2 transmission kit being delivered & installed next week.

Here is the total build list I currently have in order.

I know most do turbo first, but if possible, I would like to true up the top end before the turbo.

Any advice is appreciated.

1st Round
Jenny Craig Program
Pusher Intake
Randy’s Stage 2 Built Transmission 750hp Rated
Fleece Coolant Bypass
ARP625s
Hamilton Rocker Arms with Studs
Hamilton Forged Bridges
Hamilton 103 Springs
Hamilton Extreme Duty Push Rods
DDP 40% Over 150hp Injectors
DDP Modified Connector Tubes

2nd Round
Fleece Cheetah Turbo (Prefer to Keep a VGT)
Fleece Coolant Drain
Fleece Oil Feed
Fleece Speed Sensor
Stead Speed Manifold
Manifold Stud Kit
FASS No Drop 165 with Sump
S&S 10mm CP3


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am currently in the same stage as you as far as getting all the upgrades done.

Personally, I would move the FASS System WAY up on the list, the larger injectors will starve your factory fueling system pretty quickly and you will risk running the factory CP3 dry.

I haven't done any other fueling upgrades to my truck, but I went ahead and installed the FASS no drop when I ran out of factory fuel filters that I had purchased in bulk.

I am targeting a similar power level and to me, the relatively low cost for the pushrods, valve springs, rocker arms, and bridges has them on my list with the injectors and head studs (like you said open it once and take care of everything).

It may be overkill for that power level, especially if you do not have the redline increased in your tune, but to me, it makes sense to spend the extra $700 on the springs, bridges, and pushrods for sure at that point why not go with an extra $900 for the rockers and studs.

In my opinion, that is worth more peace of mind than the 625s vs the ARP 2000s for a build like you are looking at with the relatively mild cylinder pressures from the setup compared to a serious race truck.

All in all very nice build sheet and well put together in my (very amateur) opinion!

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